Kato D51-498 Decoder installation guide

[gavino200]

I have a D51 due to be shipped out next month, so I'm doing some preparation for the install. I've worked on a D-51, and a C-62 before, and have refined my technique to the point where it's "quite good". This link is to a guide with a method that is far superior to mine. I'm planning to follow it for the next installation. I have suspected that Kato added a few features to make this loco 'dcc friendly'. This guy has discovered a few more features than I did. It's very clear that Kato designed this engine, not only to be DCC-friendly, but also to be Sound decoder friendly. The problem is discovering where Kato has laid out the breadcrumb trail. It isn't all that obvious at first. 

 

Here is the guide.

http://jbwid.com/art82h.htm

 

He based it on this Japanese guide.

http://www5a.biglobe.ne.jp/~toyoyasu/d51498ktn_4.htm

 

The main unanswered question for me is where to take the power pickup from. He wires the pick ups to the brass strips in the tender. I've done this before and it works, but it's not idea. Any disturbance of those strips can decrease electrical transfer and affect the balance of the bogies. I used screws, tapped into the weights  last time. That works electrically very well, but takes up space.

 

I'm thinking this time, of using the wires, connected to special brass leafs, that in the unconverted loco, connect directly to the motor. That should give excellent pickup AND cause no bogie disturbance. The only downside is that there would be six wires passing between the engine and tender rather than four. 

 

Now to track down an MRC 1637 speaker, and a suitably sized decoder. This guy used a LokSound from ESU. I like ESU decoders, but their sound decoders require you to buy their proprietary computer interface if you want to switch them from their default diesel loco sound file. 

Edited May 28, 2018 by gavino200

[gavino200]

According to this site, the MRC 1637 Sound decoder (now discontinued) came with a 17mm round speaker. Presumably, any thin 17mm speaker should be a good fit. (fingers crossed).

 

https://www.trainzauctions.com/dash/universe/catalog_item/MT-0895915/

 

Now to find a decoder. I could swear I have an ESU LokSound lying around somewhere. 

[Kiha66]

The smaller oval speaker that comes with the digitrax decoders fits as well, I used one before in my C62 installation.  The issue was I had two sound decoder boards fail (one my fault, one not) and so I've just given up and gone to silent basic decoders.  The biggest issue I've had was fitting the capacitor in the limited space in the tender.

[gavino200]

14 minutes ago, Kiha66 said:

The smaller oval speaker that comes with the digitrax decoders fits as well, I used one before in my C62 installation.  The issue was I had two sound decoder boards fail (one my fault, one not) and so I've just given up and gone to silent basic decoders.  The biggest issue I've had was fitting the capacitor in the limited space in the tender.

 

Are you using the giant capacitor that comes with the decoder? Those are difficult to fit. I bought some tiny SMD caps for this purpose that I've never used. 

 

I found a Soundtraxx Tsunammi 2 decoder. I believe it still works but has a busted 8 pin power harness. I see that Soundtraxx sell replacements for 9 bucks. The decoder is not small but I think it will fit. Or I might track down the ESU used in the guide that I know will work. 

 

What do you think of my idea above for power pickup from the tracks?

[gavino200]

 

This 16 mm speaker looks pretty thin. I think I'll buy it. I'm getting my replacement Soundtraxx harness here too, so it'll save some postage.

 

https://tonystrains.com/product/0-63-diameter-speaker-16mm/

 

 

Edited May 30, 2018 by gavino200

[gavino200]

This is the decoder that is used in the online guide. It looks like it doesn't require an additional capacitor. Maybe there is already a capacitor on the board.

 

 http://www.esu.eu/en/products/loksound/loksound-micro-v40/

 

Dimensions are 25mm x 10.6mm x 3.8mm

 

Edit: The capacitor is "optional". Or you can use their ESU Power pack, which seems to just be a small capacitor on a tiny circuit board. Even larger than the giant Soundtraxx capacitor. 

 

http://www.esu.eu/en/products/accessories/powerpacks/powerpack-mini/

 

 

Edited May 30, 2018 by gavino200

[gavino200]

The Sountraxx is 27 x 10.5 x 5 mm. If it works with the replacement harness I may use that.

 

http://www.soundtraxx.com/dsd/tsunami2/products/tsu1100.php

 

This (below) is probably the decoder or newer equivalent that the original Japanese site used. Unless I'm missing something, MRC don't bother to list the dimensions. It's clearly very small though. 

 

http://www.modelrectifier.com/product-p/0001961.htm

 

 

 

Edited May 31, 2018 by gavino200

[Kiha66]

I used the motor tabs for power pickup when I did my C62, although I relocated them to sit between the tender weight and the brass strips that the wheels ride on.  It seems to be working out so far!

[gavino200]

5 minutes ago, Kiha66 said:

I used the motor tabs for power pickup when I did my C62, although I relocated them to sit between the tender weight and the brass strips that the wheels ride on.  It seems to be working out so far!

 

I think I'll try that. 

 

Honestly,  I'm not sure why I'm even going to do this with sound. I decided a while ago that I'd quit that nonsense and just use regular decoders. I'm amazed to see how the tender is clearly designed for a speaker. I've been staring at this thing, on and off, for years now, and I just never saw it. I  have to do it and see for myself! It's not rational.

Edited May 31, 2018 by gavino200

[gavino200]

On 5/30/2018 at 7:42 PM, Kiha66 said:

I used the motor tabs for power pickup when I did my C62, although I relocated them to sit between the tender weight and the brass strips that the wheels ride on.  It seems to be working out so far!

 

I finally got around to this. I used your method and it worked great. Much better than either using screws or soldering directly to the pickup strips. Thanks!

[Steve]

The link http://jbwid.com/art82h.htm seems to be no longer working.

[Mutro]

yes, still not working. I wonder if anyone will fix this as I'm interested in the DCC conversion myself.

 

[cteno4]

Domain is history so it would guess gone, also not in wayback machine.

 

internet is transient so always save a page locally if you find something of use maybe later.

 

it’s funny now doing searching on “Kato D51-498 Decoder installation guide“ brings up on the fly ai created pages that are a mauling of Gavin’s post. As these proliferate and eventually become fodder for other ai bots we are going to see a lot of grey goo produced.

 

jeff