gerryo Posted April 14, 2018 Author Share Posted April 14, 2018 There is a lot more to do and parts to get but basically it's all Urban development with the viaduct thrown in for a show of speed. I have my model of the Matsumoto castle in there just for ideas, but it is z scale and not large enough. I'll probably get the Tsuruga castle by Woody Joe for good measure. It is a shame that the moving bus system doesn't work for me but that's not the only thing that I am disappointed with. 1 Link to comment
bill937ca Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 15 minutes ago, gerryo said: I've been thinking it's time I got some pics in with my newest ideas. I was cruising the internet one day and happened to google an item about Kato Unitram layouts. Within there I tweaked on an item including Unitram and Unitrack which interested me very much. So I have used a lot of the ideas about the use of Unitram as the central attraction along with the Unitrack viaduct. I have tossed this idea back and forth over the years, and finally admitted that that was the first thing that attracted me to Japan layouts. So here is my present version in semi completed state. Gerry No fair! Your place is so neat. Lookin' good. I also like the green background. Link to comment
Kiha66 Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 I like it! Simple but still very interesting. I have come back around to such a layout myself. 1 Link to comment
gerryo Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 I suppose that one of the next steps is to work out the electrical controls for this. As you know it is on three separate tables, each one meter long. So I guess that the logical place for the control board is under the middle table, on a pair of drawer slides. All wires would then lead back to here and all switches would be attached here. For my Z scale layout I use Rokuhan controls, which are in some ways better. Each power pack operates 2 tracks, and as many turnouts as you like. They also have a cheaper power supply that operates only one track and takes up a lot less space. Anyway, I have to use Kato because of the connections for wiring. Can't change that. Speaking of wire connections, I was planning on being very careful and drill holes through the Styrofoam to run the wire through. However, I drilled a test hole thru some wood and tried to put the connector thru it. My largest drill bit is 3/8 and the connector will not go thru. It means cutting every wire or finding some way to detach the wires from the connectors. Anyone with a better method, PLEASE speak up, as I consider this to be the worse job for railroad modelling. Gerry Link to comment
Kiha66 Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 The plugs on the track end of the cables are much smaller and easier to route. You can drill a bigger hole through the foam but then make a small slit in the fabric to slide it through, which shouldn't be too visible as it can be patted back down. Also the small ends that attach to the track or switch may be able to be taken appart, but Ill have to double check that. Also you can splice the wires from the uniconectors to any other control type if you prefer to do so, just remember to use momentary type throws for the switches if you do. Link to comment
gerryo Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 I just tried the other end of both wires and of course they both fit easily thru a 3/8 hole. Thank you Kiha66. My lateral thinking is not too good these days. Gerry Link to comment
Kiha66 Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 No worries! I've had the same "oh, duh" moment myself plenty of times when I realize that there was a much easier method than the one I was trying! Link to comment
cteno4 Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Gerry also if the plugs stick going thru the foam you can also poke a straw thru your hole to make the plug slide thru easier. For #6 points you are stuck though snipping the wire and using smaller plugs. You can buy prewired connectors like on the power feeds and #4 points. They are called JST connectors. You would just solder them onto each cut end of your #6 point wires and insulate with some heat shrink. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pin-JST-Plug-Connector-Male-Female-Plug-Connector-Cable-Wire-for-LED-Lamp-Strip/273115221229?hash=item3f96ef8ced:m:mOxz_T-Ix44FRRX5x424p4Q or getting a cheap 1/2” drill bit to poke a big enough hole for the big plugs. jeff Link to comment
gerryo Posted April 16, 2018 Author Share Posted April 16, 2018 Ok, first, I don't use any #6 points. Second, I would worry about a 1/2 inch hole showing on either side of the ballasted track base. Anyway, I have used the 3/8 bit that I have and then forced the connector thru the hole. It works. That's all I need. I've done 6 already and it works just fine. Gerry Link to comment
gerryo Posted April 16, 2018 Author Share Posted April 16, 2018 The following is my AS-BUILT N scale layout. I say "as built" because I have drilled all the holes for the wiring as it is in the plan. It would be quite difficult to change it now without some major work. All the wiring is in place with enough extensions and double connections, etc. Now the work starts under the set for a control panel with power packs and control switches. I think I can get by with 6 packs, all in a drawer under the center section. I have 2 Tomytec N400 packs which I will try to adapt to the Kato wiring by changing the end of the cord. Means I need 4 Kato packs. I have 2 already so I had better get a couple more ordered. More thinking and waiting. Gerry 1 Link to comment
gerryo Posted April 21, 2018 Author Share Posted April 21, 2018 I have 2 of these Tomytec N400 power packs and they have switches on top which indicate "1" and "2" but there is only one place to plug a track into. How can you wire it in so that it will operate 2 tracks? And then can they be operated separately? Gerry Link to comment
bill937ca Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 (edited) The N400 is a 9 volt tram controller. Those two switches are for turnouts. The turnouts can be plugged into the 1 and 2 outlets on the back of the power pack. More info: http://www.sumidacrossing.org/LayoutElectricity/ModelTrainPower/PowerPackTesting/ (scroll way down) http://www.trainweb.org/tomix/control/tomix_control_systems.htm Japanese language N400 set tutorial. The black plugs plugged into ports 1 and 2 are attached to turnouts. Power feed plugs are white. http://joshinweb.jp/train/n90093.html?ACK=BLG814078 To split the power feed on any Tomix power pack you need the Tomix 5812 branching cord. You can plug two feeders into this cord. But both tracks will run at the same speed (subjective to performance variances in individual models). http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10010012 Of course, you will also need two feeders. Edited April 21, 2018 by bill937ca Link to comment
gerryo Posted April 21, 2018 Author Share Posted April 21, 2018 Tnx Bill. Yes, I know that the info is out there, but I sometimes don't know where. Gerry Link to comment
gerryo Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 I will save my 2 Tomix packs to be used on Z scale where 10 volts is max. Their 8.5v will be enough there. Gerry Link to comment
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