DCC Conversion for Kato N 10-865 Series 800 Kyushu Shinkansen "Sakura Tsubame"

[chadbag]

I bought "Kato N 10-865 Series 800 Kyushu Shinkansen "Sakura Tsubame"" while in Japan from a seller on Amazon for a good price (15000 yen delivered inside Japan).  Since this is an older model, ie, not something currently produced, you basically have to find one at a store and most want more than 15000 yen.  I like the 800, having ridden on one once, and it is a bit different from the typical 700/N700/E-series you normally see.  The one I got was listed as "used" but the notes said it was new, with a small dent in the corner of the outer cardboard, and had been opened for inspection only.   They were correct.  It was basically brand new, all original papers, "manual", small parts still unattached, etc.  Just like a new one, except for the small damage on the corner of the outer cardboard sleeve of the packaging.

 

Anyway, I am converting all my trains to DCC and did this one the other night.   I had a D&H DH10C decoder available (the wired version).   I had seen somewhere on the web, a few weeks ago, a conversion of a similar KATO model (not the 800, but one with the same setup), and so got most of my ideas for it from that.  I could not find that site again to give it credit, unfortunately.

 

Take the shell off the power car.  This is basically what it looks like.   If you see a white clip between the track power strips, you are GTG and it is an easy install.  My son has a "Thunderbird" Kato model (older version) that looks like this. I will be converting it really soon now using a Digitrax DZ126T I have available and I assume it will be the same thing as this.

 

 

Here are all the parts laid out including the decoder.

 

Remove the white clip, and fold back the two metal strips that are folded over and being held by the clip.  These are the motor leads.

 

 

I took shrink-wrap tubing, and cut a short piece.  I pushed it over the motor lead, and used a small pointy bit to make sure it got pushed down below the track power strip, which is the large metal strip.  You need to isolate it and don't want to barely do so.  Make sure the shrink-wrap extends down below the track power strip sufficiently.   The use of the shrink-wrap tube for the isolation is something I had gotten from the other website (is it in these forums somewhere?).

 

Here is both motor leads done.

 

 

Solder the orange and gray wires from the decoder to the two motor leads, and the corresponding red and black wires to the track power strips as shown above.  I don't have a good heat gun and my wife was sleeping so I did not try and borrow her hair dryer.  I used the barrel of my soldering iron to try and shrink the tube a bit.  Only the upper ends were shrunk. I should do a better job someday and re-shrink it.   I could have added a piece of shrink-wrap tubing around the orange and gray wires and slid it down over the joint but did not.   Probably because I forgot.  But there is no technical need for it.  Just looks better.

 

 

I used a small piece of double sided tape to attach the decoder to the body.   (Tape was bought at a 100yen store in Japan so it is "authentic").

 

On a test track.  Worked first time.   I chose the end of the power car that did not have a lot of windows so that you cannot see through the window and see the decoder etc.  For now I left the aux lighting wires on and long so I can, at some point in the future, add interior lighting.

 

Be careful when testing!!!  I was trying to test it and pulled a wire or something that caused the track and power car to fall off the table, which broke a coupler on one end.   I stole a coupler off another car and have an order with a hobby shop in Japan for 2 packs of the couplers, to be sent to my MIL's apartment.    She already has some other spare parts, and a bunch of EM13, FL12, FR11 decoders that my SIL will send to me, eventually.

Edited February 1, 2018 by chadbag

[Madsing]

Hello chadbag,

What about interior lights and headlights? Is it compatible with FR11 and FL12?

Thanks

[chadbag]

12 hours ago, Madsing said:

Hello chadbag,

What about interior lights and headlights? Is it compatible with FR11 and FL12?

Thanks

 

Hi.  It has no decoder "slots" so you would need to HW in cab and lighting decoders as well.  (Which I plan on doing one of these days).  For cab ends, I've had good luck on other Shinkansen (eg Tomix) that don't have slots using the NGDCC bi-polar function decoders.  Wicked easy using that one.

 

ETA: On these old posts, it is better to QUOTE them so that I get a notification that you have quoted me and hence I will see your question.  I only saw this because someone "liked" my post and I went to see what it was about.

 

Edited December 9, 2019 by chadbag

[Madsing]

14 hours ago, chadbag said:

 

Hi.  It has no decoder "slots" so you would need to HW in cab and lighting decoders as well.  (Which I plan on doing one of these days).  For cab ends, I've had good luck on other Shinkansen (eg Tomix) that don't have slots using the NGDCC bi-polar function decoders.  Wicked easy using that one.

 

ETA: On these old posts, it is better to QUOTE them so that I get a notification that you have quoted me and hence I will see your question.  I only saw this because someone "liked" my post and I went to see what it was about.

 

Ok. Thank you very much for the info.

[jozasa]

On 12/9/2019 at 4:14 PM, chadbag said:

 

Hi.  It has no decoder "slots" so you would need to HW in cab and lighting decoders as well.  (Which I plan on doing one of these days).  For cab ends, I've had good luck on other Shinkansen (eg Tomix) that don't have slots using the NGDCC bi-polar function decoders.  Wicked easy using that one.

 

 

 

I understand it has to be hardwired for a DCC decoder, but is it not even prepared for interior lighting with the usual KATO kit 11-213??

 

Edited December 13, 2019 by jozasa

[Madsing]

The Hobby Search page https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10150093 lists the #11-211 LED Interior Lighting Kit, Ver.2 (DCC Optional: FR11) as an optional part. However, on the photos at the very beginning of this post I don’t see the plastic parts that would hold the LED, the FR11 and even the light guide... strange...

[chadbag]

4 hours ago, jozasa said:

 

I understand it has to be hardwired for a DCC decoder, but is it not even prepared for interior lighting with the usual KATO kit 11-213??

 

 

Probably is set up for that.  I have not tried it.

 

57 minutes ago, Madsing said:

The Hobby Search page https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10150093 lists the #11-211 LED Interior Lighting Kit, Ver.2 (DCC Optional: FR11) as an optional part. However, on the photos at the very beginning of this post I don’t see the plastic parts that would hold the LED, the FR11 and even the light guide... strange...

 

From memory it has been a long while since I installed any KATO lights and FR11 -- my FR11 stash is still mostly uninstalled) -- the FR11 attaches to the piece that holds the LEDs which is part of the kit and attaches at one end.  In this motor car, you see some taller supports in the center -- that is to hold the LED lights I think.  The non motor cars have the main body plate with the fake seats lower (and higher seats) so it is probably more pronounced.     I'll have to try and test fit everything when I get a chance.  (Which may not be soon).

 

I have a few sets of KATO lights and FR11, but I am mostly going to use my own DIY lights for things so have not really tried to use the KATO lights I have.  Not sure where I want to use them as they are the WHITE (not the warm white) ones.