Are there any trams that are DCC convertible?

[gavino200]

I've always liked trams. But I've been told that there's not enough room for them to be DCC converted. Unfortunately, I don't have space on my layout for a designated tram-line. 

 

I was looking at this post today. Link below, scroll down - it's a white Tomytec TM-TR0-3.  It looks like there'd be enough room for a tiny ESU decoder. It would be visible through the windows unless I could glue the decoder to the underside of the roof. Also I'd have to pass wires between tram units, which doesn't look like a major problem.

 

Does anyone know of anyone who has successfully DCC converted a tram? Do you know what tram model? 

 

http://n-rail.blogspot.com/2017/

 

Edit: Here's a direct link to the product.

 

https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10389871

Edited November 29, 2017 by gavino200

[kvp]

Most Tomytec tram motors are easy to convert. You'll need a small wired decoder like the ones from Digitrax (dz12x series) and isolate before the motor tabs by bending the brass contacts away, then solder the track pickup wires to these tabs and the motor wires to the motor tabs. The other wires are not needed, unless you are installing interior or headlights. Double sided tape works well to hold the decoder in place either on the inside of the roof or on the weights or just put it next to the motor in the empty space. This method leaves the main pickup bus intact and only needs 4 wires to be soldered.

 

ps: for your model, you can even remove the weight towards the non powered end and stuff the decoder there after painting the outer red shrinkwrap black to hide it

[gavino200]

44 minutes ago, kvp said:

Most Tomytec tram motors are easy to convert. You'll need a small wired decoder like the ones from Digitrax (dz12x series) and isolate before the motor tabs by bending the brass contacts away, then solder the track pickup wires to these tabs and the motor wires to the motor tabs. The other wires are not needed, unless you are installing interior or headlights. Double sided tape works well to hold the decoder in place either on the inside of the roof or on the weights or just put it next to the motor in the empty space. This method leaves the main pickup bus intact and only needs 4 wires to be soldered.

 

ps: for your model, you can even remove the weight towards the non powered end and stuff the decoder there after painting the outer red shrinkwrap black to hide it

 

Thanks. I bought this little thing last year from Nariichi when we visited him. I'll email him and ask if he knows what motor will fit it. This has basically been an ornament. The boy would really like it to run. I would too :)

 

[gavino200]

From this video, it looks like TM-TLR01 would fit. Looks like there's a bit of space between the chassis and the roof too.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsZ4MQAen0Q

 

Edit: Bingo 

 

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/tetsudou-collection-tram-portram-103718793

Edited November 29, 2017 by gavino200

[bill937ca]

The TM-LRT01 fits all Tomytrc Portram trams.

[westfalen]

I installed a Digitrax DZ126 into this Modemo Arakawa Line tram for the automated tram line on my Urasai Fumikiri T-TRAK modules because of the heavy frame, large motor and flywheel which seems to make it a more reliable runner in this service than my Kato or Tomytec trams.

 

I had to remove the head light/tail light assembly from one end to fit the decoder in the cab but otherwise no modification was required. You can see the decoder through the cab window in the photo, I have to paint it black.

 

Edited November 30, 2017 by westfalen

[gavino200]

2 hours ago, westfalen said:

I installed a Digitrax DZ126 into this Modemo Arakawa Line tram for the automated tram line on my Urasai Fumikiri T-TRAK modules because of the heavy frame, large motor and flywheel which seems to make it a more reliable runner in this service than my Kato or Tomytec trams.

 

I had to remove the head light/tail light assembly from one end to fit the decoder in the cab but otherwise no modification was required. You can see the decoder through the cab window in the photo, I have to paint it black.

 

 

 

Thanks for the info. Your buildings look great  btw. Do you mind if I ask you a question about them? I notice that your curbs are very slight and proportional, like real curbs. Do you throw away the thick bases that tomytec buildings come with and just place the buildings directly on your layout? Or have you hollowed out a space for them so that they rise up a normal amount above the road level? I like like Tomytec buildings but the bases are very thick. If you could give some advice to a novice about this, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.

[bill937ca]

That looks like Unitram cut down the middle, creating  a single track section. Sidewalks and curbs are Unitram too.

[westfalen]

22 hours ago, bill937ca said:

That looks like Unitram cut down the middle, creating  a single track section. Sidewalks and curbs are Unitram too.

Correct. You don't always have to do things the way Kato says on the box.

 

[Robert46]

I installed a Digitrax DZ126 into this Modemo Arakawa Line tram for the automated tram line on my Urasai Fumikiri T-TRAK modules because of the heavy frame, large motor and flywheel which seems to make it a more reliable runner in this service than my Kato or Tomytec trams.
 
I had to remove the head light/tail light assembly from one end to fit the decoder in the cab but otherwise no modification was required. You can see the decoder through the cab window in the photo, I have to paint it black.
 

Hi Westfalen,

This maybe is out of context, but do you know how to install the interior lights in the trailer/unpowered cars from tomytec train collection? Although the wheel is converted using metal wheel, but the bogie doesn't have any metal strips/springs which can be connected for interior lights or head/tail lights. Tried to search on the forum, but couldn't find any info. Thanks.

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[kvp]

38 minutes ago, Robert46 said:

This maybe is out of context, but do you know how to install the interior lights in the trailer/unpowered cars from tomytec train collection? Although the wheel is converted using metal wheel, but the bogie doesn't have any metal strips/springs which can be connected for interior lights or head/tail lights. Tried to search on the forum, but couldn't find any info.

There are 3rd party kits for it, usually from small japanese sellers. The best ones i've seen use the same wheel tip pickups as regular Tomix sets, but that requires another wheel upgrade to the shorter tip modern Tomix trailer wheels to leave room for the pickup frames and you also have to cut and file the car frames to route the power up. There are kits and home made variants that use wheel top or wheel back wipers and wires to route the power up but those tend to increase rolling resistence a lot, get dirty relatively fast and also not really reliable. The 3rd option is to use the old type Tomix trailer wheels that have pickup rolling blocks built into the axles and could use simple horizontal pickup strips, but since there are no prepared ways to route power up from the bogies, wires are still needed. The 4th solution is to use power routing couplers and power all cars from the motor unit. I'm still looking for the right coupler to do this. Most 3rd party solutions (like the ones used on N scale Arnold trains) are too fragile to be reliable and too hard to couple to be practical.

 

ps: These options are only important if you want interior lights or the set has clear lenses for head/tail lights as many cars have painted on imitation lights only, so would need a complete remodelling to get any light out of them. The most simple interior light solution i've seen so far used a small 3V lithium cell inserted into the interior light board, glued to the ceiling of the car. You had to take the car apart (usually that's relatively easy for Tomytec-s) to turn it on and off.

 

 

[Robert46]

There are 3rd party kits for it, usually from small japanese sellers. The best ones i've seen use the same wheel tip pickups as regular Tomix sets, but that requires another wheel upgrade to the shorter tip modern Tomix trailer wheels to leave room for the pickup frames and you also have to cut and file the car frames to route the power up. There are kits and home made variants that use wheel top or wheel back wipers and wires to route the power up but those tend to increase rolling resistence a lot, get dirty relatively fast and also not really reliable. The 3rd option is to use the old type Tomix trailer wheels that have pickup rolling blocks built into the axles and could use simple horizontal pickup strips, but since there are no prepared ways to route power up from the bogies, wires are still needed. The 4th solution is to use power routing couplers and power all cars from the motor unit. I'm still looking for the right coupler to do this. Most 3rd party solutions (like the ones used on N scale Arnold trains) are too fragile to be reliable and too hard to couple to be practical.
 
ps: These options are only important if you want interior lights or the set has clear lenses for head/tail lights as many cars have painted on imitation lights only, so would need a complete remodelling to get any light out of them. The most simple interior light solution i've seen so far used a small 3V lithium cell inserted into the interior light board, glued to the ceiling of the car. You had to take the car apart (usually that's relatively easy for Tomytec-s) to turn it on and off.
 
 

Thanks a lot KVP for your reply. I thought there should be an easy kind of plug and play kits or parts for tomytec train collection. But no.

Indeed the easiest option is to use 3V lithium cell. But I think would be better if we can collect current from the rails instead.

I will also check my few tomytec sets whether they have clear parts for headlights or not. As I remember they do have.

Thanks for sharing those options and I will consider which are the best choice for me to power up the interior lights or head lights.

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[HantuBlauLOL]

found this for lighting tomytecs:

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/trainmodel/permalink/1998449590441217/

[Robert46]

found this for lighting tomytecs:
 
https://www.facebook.com/groups/trainmodel/permalink/1998449590441217/

Nice one. :) Thanks om for sharing the link. Seems complicated at a glance but interesting..

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[cteno4]

Sad that bandai stopped selling their truck sets with contacts installed. Looked like they were going to do lighting kits as they had cut the slots for contacts to allow contact with the truck contacts. I'll have to dig out the ones I had, but I think they may be using the inner wheel wipe as I seem to remember they do have quite a bit of rolling resistance.

 

jeff

[westfalen]

On ‎5‎/‎12‎/‎2017 at 6:06 PM, Robert46 said:

Hi Westfalen,

This maybe is out of context, but do you know how to install the interior lights in the trailer/unpowered cars from tomytec train collection? Although the wheel is converted using metal wheel, but the bogie doesn't have any metal strips/springs which can be connected for interior lights or head/tail lights. Tried to search on the forum, but couldn't find any info. Thanks.

Sent from my ASUS_T00Q using Tapatalk
 

I have to admit I've never given it much thought. Because I rarely if ever run in the dark interior and layout lighting is not very high on my priority list, putting Kato lighting kits in a few cars is as far as I usually go.