How did you improve your rolling stock?

[Kiha66]

Sorry for all the spam, got some liquid electrical tape and recoated the wire that fired, seems to have worked out ok.  If this fails I can replace it but I'm hoping it won't come to that.

Before:

[Kiha66]

And after:

[gavino200]

3 hours ago, Kiha66 said:

And testing one truck set for the right gauge.

 

 

This looks like an awesome project. Are these Shapeways shells fitted to generic chassis or are they kits? Are you going to make a dedicated thread showing the whole process? I'm sure a lot of people would be interested. 

[Kiha66]

15 minutes ago, gavino200 said:

This looks like an awesome project. Are these Shapeways shells fitted to generic chassis or are they kits? Are you going to make a dedicated thread showing the whole process? I'm sure a lot of people would be interested. 

 

The shells are fitted to the Bachmann K4 chassis.  The kit reuses the engine driving wheels and frame  as well as the circuit board from the tender.  The rest is various prints from shapeways.  I'll try to make a build thread if people are interested.  The shells are being painted by a friend for the two people who the locos are for.  I'll be sure to take a few photos of the finished project assuming it all comes together.

[Khaul]

I mounted the details in my Kumoha 12. That was fairly easy apart from the air hoses. I also put the destination and service number stickers, which I find always challenging to do well.

 

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ja/4/4d/JNR-クモハ12-1.jpg

[JR 500系]

Guys I need some help here... Could anyone tell me, from the pictures below, the correct Tomix coupler to get in order to change that horrible Rapido coupler to a TN one? I tried using JC25 but it seems it doesn't work... The base plate needs to be there in order for the skirt of the train to be attached (this coupler belongs to a cab car, which I am trying to change to TN couplers because it just looks horrible especially when running in one consist and that horrible Rapido coupler sticking out...) 

 

* The couplers belong to 2000/ N2000 Series Nanpu/ Isuzushi... 

 

I couldn't get my finger on which coupler to get from the Tomix parts catalogue.... These couplers are different and confusing... don't wish to end up like the 0373 which I have 6 boxes of and no place to install them....

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

[Yavianice]

I think it uses the same as the 8000 series, which needs 0337 TN couplers They need to be cut slightly in order to fit correctly.

[kvp]

1 hour ago, JR 500系 said:

Guys I need some help here... Could anyone tell me, from the pictures below, the correct Tomix coupler to get in order to change that horrible Rapido coupler to a TN one? I tried using JC25 but it seems it doesn't work... The base plate needs to be there in order for the skirt of the train to be attached (this coupler belongs to a cab car, which I am trying to change to TN couplers because it just looks horrible especially when running in one consist and that horrible Rapido coupler sticking out...) 

 

* The couplers belong to 2000/ N2000 Series Nanpu/ Isuzushi... 

 

I couldn't get my finger on which coupler to get from the Tomix parts catalogue.... These couplers are different and confusing... don't wish to end up like the 0373 which I have 6 boxes of and no place to install them....

What is the part number of this rapido coupler? Is it available without a skirt and/or in black? I could really use some rapido couplers with built Tomix kinematic mech for a project.

[Densha]

2 hours ago, JR 500系 said:

Guys I need some help here... Could anyone tell me, from the pictures below, the correct Tomix coupler to get in order to change that horrible Rapido coupler to a TN one? I tried using JC25 but it seems it doesn't work... The base plate needs to be there in order for the skirt of the train to be attached (this coupler belongs to a cab car, which I am trying to change to TN couplers because it just looks horrible especially when running in one consist and that horrible Rapido coupler sticking out...) 

 

* The couplers belong to 2000/ N2000 Series Nanpu/ Isuzushi... 

 

Although JC6324/JC6328 would have been even better due to already having the correct coupler part out of the box, you actually did not make a mistake by buying JC25. You can (and should) use them for MicroAce JR Shikoku 2000/N2000/8000 series, because you need that electrical coupler part just below the mechanical Shibata coupler in order to make it look like the real deal.

 

As you already pointed out, you cannot mount the skirt on the JC coupler holder. A simple trick is using the JC coupler part together with the 0337 coupler holders. You just need to take them apart and put them back together in a different way, as pointed out on this blog: http://to-industry.at.webry.info/200903/article_17.html (do take note that they used the wrong coupler for the streamlined end of the 2000 series; which does actually not have the electrical coupler bit)

 

You also need to cut the cable plugs off the 0337 coupler holder, and cut off the redundant electrical coupler bit that Shikoku limited expresses do not have.

[JR 500系]

22 hours ago, Yavianice said:

I think it uses the same as the 8000 series, which needs 0337 TN couplers They need to be cut slightly in order to fit correctly.

 

20 hours ago, Densha said:

 

Although JC6324/JC6328 would have been even better due to already having the correct coupler part out of the box, you actually did not make a mistake by buying JC25. You can (and should) use them for MicroAce JR Shikoku 2000/N2000/8000 series, because you need that electrical coupler part just below the mechanical Shibata coupler in order to make it look like the real deal.

 

As you already pointed out, you cannot mount the skirt on the JC coupler holder. A simple trick is using the JC coupler part together with the 0337 coupler holders. You just need to take them apart and put them back together in a different way, as pointed out on this blog: http://to-industry.at.webry.info/200903/article_17.html (do take note that they used the wrong coupler for the streamlined end of the 2000 series; which does actually not have the electrical coupler bit)

 

You also need to cut the cable plugs off the 0337 coupler holder, and cut off the redundant electrical coupler bit that Shikoku limited expresses do not have.

 

Wow thanks guys! That really helped a lot! I knew I can count on you guys!

 

I always stock up on JC25 everytime I order something... it's like a universal adapter for cab cars, and Tomix/ MA has a notorious history of using ugly Rapido couplers especially at the cab cars for coupling... (Though Tomix has been much better with their releases recently, using TN ones on cab cars) 

 

 

[kvp]

I'mnot sure if it counts as improvement, but i assembled a few MAV (hungarian railways) freight car custom kits using fleischmann eaos cars as base modells. The first 3 are the new ones, the one on the right is the base model.

The shells are resin cast and painted/lettered with a few bits of etched metal parts glued on.

[Philphil]

On 6/8/2018 at 7:36 AM, JR 500系 said:

 

I always stock up on JC25 everytime I order something... it's like a universal adapter for cab cars, and Tomix/ MA has a notorious history of using ugly Rapido couplers especially at the cab cars for coupling... (Though Tomix has been much better with their releases recently, using TN ones on cab cars) 

 

 

Woah, woah, woah, wait a second here, are the Tomix cab cars factory equipped with dummy, or working TN couplers? 

[Densha]

@JR 500系

This self built model of a TSE (not mine) shows very clearly how TN couplers should look on a 2000 series streamlined cab.

 

[kvp]

54 minutes ago, Philphil said:

Woah, woah, woah, wait a second here, are the Tomix cab cars factory equipped with dummy, or working TN couplers? 

Most new cab cars either come with a dummy or a working TN coupler. For HG sets, they always come with TNs. The only exception seems to be when in service uncoupling is supported by the train and sold as one supporting it. Then a rapido coupler is used so it could be played with, but this is rather rare.

 

The rule for standard series sets for which cab gets a working or a dummy coupler is general consists of said set. The Yamanote 231 basic set did'n get one as it always runs alone, while 113/115s get a working one as they often ran coupled, very much like the Chuo rapid 233s. The newer loco hauled standatd sets get one end dummy coupler, two end bogie mounted rapidos and two add on pieces for TN couplers (not included). I usually replace the tail end imitation with the second bogie mounted rapido as it makes runarounds with a loco possible.

 

ps: I'm still looking for a product number for body mount rapido TN couplers with Tomix attachement points. (preferably in black)

[JR 500系]

15 hours ago, Densha said:

@JR 500系

This self built model of a TSE (not mine) shows very clearly how TN couplers should look on a 2000 series streamlined cab.

 

 

Wow cool! Thanks! Though I have already installed mine yesterday...

 

 

 

Looks like my electrical coupler has one additional piece! Hhmmm... Maybe I should swap that one out... 

 

Eventually, thanks to Yanvanice & Densha's advice, I managed to change that horrible Rapido coupler into a much nicer looking TN one! Basically, I used the base plate of the 0337, cut off the LHS and RHS pieces and swapped the twin coupler piece with the JC25.... (although it seems the N2000 doesn't require me snapping off the LHS & RHS piece of the coupler as there were gaps in in... but oh well)

 

 

Edited June 10, 2018 by JR 500系

[JR 500系]

15 hours ago, kvp said:

 

ps: I'm still looking for a product number for body mount rapido TN couplers with Tomix attachement points. (preferably in black)

 

You mean the default Rapido ones on the 2000 series? 

 

Quote

Woah, woah, woah, wait a second here, are the Tomix cab cars factory equipped with dummy, or working TN couplers? 

 

Some of the newer sets have TN couplers up front at the cab cars for connecting, like 373 series, 313 series, 227 series etc. Like kvp san mentioned, it depends if the car is coupled to other cars as a prototypical running consists.. like the 373, 313, 227, 225, 287s etc they often couple together so TN couplers are fitted up front... For those that are as a one consist set like the 183 series for example, you will only get dummy couplers up front since they don't couple with other trains prototypically...

 

 

Edited June 10, 2018 by JR 500系

[Densha]

7 hours ago, JR 500系 said:

 

Looks like my electrical coupler has one additional piece! Hhmmm... Maybe I should swap that one out... 

 

 Awesome! You can just cut off the little electrical coupler piece with a knife. No need to order another piece for this.

 

The N2000 looks off though. Is the shell not properly attached to the chassis?

[gavino200]

8 hours ago, JR 500系 said:

 

Wow cool! Thanks! Though I have already installed mine yesterday...

 

 

 

 

 

Looks like my electrical coupler has one additional piece! Hhmmm... Maybe I should swap that one out... 

 

Eventually, thanks to Yanvanice & Densha's advice, I managed to change that horrible Rapido coupler into a much nicer looking TN one! Basically, I used the base plate of the 0337, cut off the LHS and RHS pieces and swapped the twin coupler piece with the JC25.... (although it seems the N2000 doesn't require me snapping off the LHS & RHS piece of the coupler as there were gaps in in... but oh well)

 

 

 

Those couplers look amazing! Are they as reliable as rapido couplers?

[kvp]

8 hours ago, JR 500系 said:

You mean the default Rapido ones on the 2000 series? 

Yes or any other body mounted kinematic coupler with a rapido head.

[Khaul]

I have done some long due maintenance in my DE10. The brass flat spring was warped and needed replacement. I also installed back the original knuckle coupler after experimenting with a magnetic one that did not work so well. Then I remembered Kiha66 painted the inside of the cabin green. I though that was a good idea. One thing lead to another...

 

This is the official photo. The head of the proud driver can be seen through the cab. The number plates fell when I took the cab off. I now know they always do. 

 

The driver is visible in this one. Well, his back is.

 

 

Adding some scenery...

 

I only learnt to do this edits a little while ago.

[Kiha66]

Nice work Khaul!  With such big windows painting the cab is a small detail that makes a big difference.  The green stands out nicely against the grey and red.

[gavino200]

7 hours ago, Khaul said:

I have done some long due maintenance in my DE10. The brass flat spring was warped and needed replacement. I also installed back the original knuckle coupler after experimenting with a magnetic one that did not work so well. Then I remembered Kiha66 painted the inside of the cabin green. I though that was a good idea. One thing lead to another...

 

This is the official photo. The head of the proud driver can be seen through the cab. The number plates fell when I took the cab off. I now know they always do. 

 

 

The driver is visible in this one. Well, his back is.

 

 

 

Adding some scenery...

 

 

 

I only learnt to do this edits a little while ago.

 

 

Nice work. I also really like how the paint makes the cab look. I bought a bottle of Tamiya cockpit green after seeing Kiha's result. I'll paint mine after I get the hang of using my airbrush. I love the figure on the back of the loco. I'm going to "borrow" that idea if you don't mind. The weathering looks good too, but I'm not ready to try that. 

 

Nice to know that opening the cab always makes the numbers pop off. I lost mine after converting my DD16. I had to get new ones on Yahoo auctions. I'll know to look out for this in future.

Edited June 23, 2018 by gavino200

[Khaul]

4 hours ago, gavino200 said:

 

 

Nice work. I also really like how the paint makes the cab look. I bought a bottle of Tamiya cockpit green after seeing Kiha's result. I'll paint mine after I get the hang of using my airbrush. I love the figure on the back of the loco. I'm going to "borrow" that idea if you don't mind. The weathering looks good too, but I'm not ready to try that. 

 

Nice to know that opening the cab always makes the numbers pop off. I lost mine after converting my DD16. I had to get new ones on Yahoo auctions. I'll know to look out for this in future.

 

I painted the cab interior with a normal brush. I think airbrushing would be too much trouble with masking and whatnot for such a small area. I just diluted the paint with a bit of isopropyl alcohol so it spreads well and does not clog. Isopropyl is also your best friend when trying weathering 🙂

 

Edited June 24, 2018 by Khaul

[katoftw]

oh stop it. it looks so good.  no my todo list just got bigger. thanks. 😂

[railsquid]

Every now and again I have occasion to go to Kichijoji, which is within cycling distance of Chez Railsquid, but being Tokyo, more specifically  Kichijoji, bicycle parking is an Issue for which there are 3 main options: use the public bicycle parking (free, but often full); use private bicycle parking (100 yen for a couple of hours,but often full) or use Yodobashi Camera's parking, which is 400 yen, or free if you buy something from Yodobashi Camera (but also often full). As Yodobashi Camera in Kichijoji has a reasonable N gauge selection, provided the bicycle parking queue isn't too long (pro-tip: get there before 11am), a rational choice is to make a small purchase, and today it was this set of driving cab rear wall stickers from "N Koya" for a Tomix EF65:

 

tomix-ef65-9153-cab-detailing-n-koya by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

which does add a bit of detail to the cab:

 

tomix-ef65-9153-cab-detailing by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

though not really visible from normal viewing distances , but I guess it's nice to know it's there. However I don't think I'll be in a hurry to roll these out to the rest of my locomotives.