How did you improve your rolling stock?

[nah00]

On 8/21/2018 at 8:27 AM, JR 500系 said:

I see... Kato doesn't seem to do this for their motor units though... perhaps this is something interesting that I just found out, with Tomix spreading a little more lovely care for their motor units... 

 

Meh I can go without the grease, I prefer to lubricate my own motors. I've had more than one Tomix engine where I traced the stopping/starting problem to excessive grease clogging the works. 

[katoftw]

One of my tomix shinkansens had so much grease in the motor car. The electrics were covered in it and struggled to run.

[disturbman]

I had a box of Tomix 0391 TN couplers lying around and decided to swap the Rapidos of my fleet of 6 MicroAce WaMu 280000 to these.

 

This job was relatively tedious. After some fiddling and tryouts, I understood that I had to build the new couplers only partially, swap the spring in the coupler box for a shorter one, and cut thin strips of paper card to avoid that the new couplers pop out of their box. I used paper for lack of available plastic strips. The result is quite stunning, the gap between cars has been dramatically reduced and the new couplers seem to function reliably. At least for the moment. I kept the original couplers and spring neatly labeled just in case I will need to swap them back in.

Edited August 29, 2018 by disturbman

[JR 500系]

1 minute ago, disturbman said:

I had a box of Tomix 0391 TN couplers lying around and decided to swap the Rapidos of my fleet of 6 MicroAce WaMu 280000 to these.

 

This job was relatively tedious. After some fiddling and tryouts, I understood that I had to build the new couplers only partially, swap the spring in the coupler box for a short one, and cut thin strips of car paper to avoid that the new couplers pop out of their box. I used paper for lack of available plastic strips. The result is quite stunning, the gap between cars has been dramatically reduced and the new couplers seem to function reliably. At least for the moment, I kept the original couplers and spring neatly labeled just in case I will need to swap them back in.

 

That's the great thing if the couplers are able to be swapped back. Tomix ones usually cant, having to snap off the Rapido couplers to make space for the body mounted TN couplers, and hence irreversible... MA has been pretty smart lately coming out with a new solution in their newer models (I think from 2015 onwards?) to have a little clip that clips out of the bogie, instead of having to cut them off.... This makes it reversible and thus able to swap out the body mounted TN couplers... 

 

 

[disturbman]

@JR 500系 I think MA always had those clips, I have models that are older than 2015 that have these coupler-bogie clips. But the WaMu don't have these, they are 2-axles boxcars and their couplers are not bogie-mounted but housed in a box clipped to the underside of the car.

Tomix 0391 are these: https://www.tomytec.co.jp/tomix/products/n/0391.html

[JR 500系]

10 minutes ago, disturbman said:

@JR 500系 I think MA always had those clips, I have models that are older than 2015 that have these coupler-bogie clips. But the WaMu don't have these, they are 2-axles boxcars and their couplers are not bogie-mounted but housed in a box clipped to the underside of the car.

Tomix 0391 are these: https://www.tomytec.co.jp/tomix/products/n/0391.html

 

aahhh interesting ~ I've had some really old MA models that featured the same cutting that is required on Tomix models...  I see... didn't know the freight vehicles used those housed in box couplers as I don't have any... 

 

I've also ordered some Kato Couplers in hope of being able to change those ugly Rapido to closer connecting ones without having to burn a few thousand yens on body mounted TN couplers, just like how they did in this video:

 

ee

[disturbman]

32 minutes ago, JR 500系 said:

I've also ordered some Kato Couplers in hope of being able to change those ugly Rapido to closer connecting ones without having to burn a few thousand yens on body mounted TN couplers, just like how they did in this video:

 

 

 

That looks like to be an easy swap.

[railsquid]

1 hour ago, disturbman said:

@JR 500系 I think MA always had those clips, I have models that are older than 2015 that have these coupler-bogie clips.

 

Yup, I've got two sets dating from ca. 2003 with those clips (and which benefit massively from TN couplers).

[katoftw]

Depends on the model. My old 2 car kiha 47 set from 2011 had the clip on the bogies for the rapidos.

[Yavianice]

Thanks to a kind donation of 2 LEDs by @oenckie I managed to replace the factory fitted Bulb lighting on my 7 part KATO KiHa 85 (10-136) with LED interior lighting today! 

 

 

Edited September 8, 2018 by Yavianice
Fixed YouTube link

[Kiha66]

10000 hours later, I finally finish the DCC and parts install on my Kato Mikado.  Kato really dropped the ball on the plastic used in this one, both the whistle and safety valves snapped and had no spares, so had to be glued back together from the remains.  The bell also didn't fit together, so had to be trimmed and the glue didn't stick to the plastic very well.  The handrails were a pain but luckily included spares.  I installed a Digitrax DZ123 decoder, the wiring was very tight and had to be planned very carefully as one connection would often block another.  I replaced the factory headlight with a golden white LED which looks much better.  

[JR 500系]

7 hours ago, Yavianice said:

Thanks to a kind donation of 2 LEDs by @oenckie I managed to replace the factory fitted Bulb lighting on my 7 part KATO KiHa 85 (10-136) with LED interior lighting today! 

 

 

 

Nice! Didn't the 10-136 comes with factory installed bulb interior lights? You  swapped them out? They definitely look good! 

 

37 minutes ago, Kiha66 said:

10000 hours later, I finally finish the DCC and parts install on my Kato Mikado.  Kato really dropped the ball on the plastic used in this one, both the whistle and safety valves snapped and had no spares, so had to be glued back together from the remains.  The bell also didn't fit together, so had to be trimmed and the glue didn't stick to the plastic very well.  The handrails were a pain but luckily included spares.  I installed a Digitrax DZ123 decoder, the wiring was very tight and had to be planned very carefully as one connection would often block another.  I replaced the factory headlight with a golden white LED which looks much better.  

 

 

 

Rocket scientist at work! Great job! 

[gavino200]

41 minutes ago, Kiha66 said:

10000 hours later, I finally finish the DCC and parts install on my Kato Mikado.  Kato really dropped the ball on the plastic used in this one, both the whistle and safety valves snapped and had no spares, so had to be glued back together from the remains.  The bell also didn't fit together, so had to be trimmed and the glue didn't stick to the plastic very well.  The handrails were a pain but luckily included spares.  I installed a Digitrax DZ123 decoder, the wiring was very tight and had to be planned very carefully as one connection would often block another.  I replaced the factory headlight with a golden white LED which looks much better.  

 

Nice work! If you don't need that clip-on Rapido cuppler, I'll give you a few bucks for it. I'm missing a clip on front rapido on a steamie.

[Kiha66]

13 hours ago, gavino200 said:

Nice work! If you don't need that clip-on Rapido cuppler, I'll give you a few bucks for it. I'm missing a clip on front rapido on a steamie.

 

Sure!  I'm certainly not using it.  What locomotive is missing the clip?  I may have a different one that would fit better.  

[gavino200]

6 hours ago, Kiha66 said:

 

Sure!  I'm certainly not using it.  What locomotive is missing the clip?  I may have a different one that would fit better.  

 

Never mind. I had the part and got it to fit. It was for my C-62. I thought I had the wrong parts - maybe for a different version. But as it turned out I was just too dumb to work out how to fit it. Sometimes I just need to put aside the problem for a while and take a fresh look. 

 

 

[Kiha66]

14 minutes ago, gavino200 said:

Never mind. I had the part and got it to fit. It was for my C-62. I thought I had the wrong parts - maybe for a different version. But as it turned out I was just too dumb to work out how to fit it. Sometimes I just need to put aside the problem for a while and take a fresh look. 

 

I know that feeling, I had to do that for the mikado install.  I couldn't for the life of me figure out how they routed the wires inside the frame.  A month later I realize its a split frame and I can just unscrew it, took about 30 seconds to do once I figured it out.

Edited September 10, 2018 by Kiha66

[gavino200]

6 minutes ago, Kiha66 said:

 

I know that feeling, I had to do that for the mikado install.  I couldn't for the life of me figure out how they routed the wires inside the frame.  A month later I realize its a split frame and I can just unscrew it, took about 30 to do once I figured it out.

 

BTW I just discovered these little Kato steam engineers and workers. I'd never noticed them before. Might be nice for making some little steam scenes. 

 

http://www.katomodels.com/n/doll_jnr_kikanshi/

[Kiha66]

Those look like nice additions to the cab, I'll have to pick up up with my next hobby search order.

[gavino200]

1 minute ago, Kiha66 said:

Those look like nice additions to the cab, I'll have to pick up up with my next hobby search order.

 

The first is on back-order. They have the second two sets. I know I should've waited for a bigger order and then add them. Paying shipping for such a little order can't really be justified. But, buying something else to justify the shipping isn't exactly saving money either. And I want them NOW!!!!

 

Besides,  my next "big" order will be the Chinese trains, so I'd be waiting a while.

[Kiha66]

Paint mixing!  Seems every photo of the Chinese ND5 have the unit in different colors of blue/green, so it's been difficult to match.  I'm fairly happy with my current mixture, but there's room for improvement.

[gavino200]

4 minutes ago, Kiha66 said:

Paint mixing!  Seems every photo of the Chinese ND5 have the unit in different colors of blue/green, so it's been difficult to match.  I'm fairly happy with my current mixture, but there's room for improvement.

 

 

 

 

Awesome! I don't know why but color mixing scares me a bit. Not sure why. I haven't got a method to make it precise and repeatable. So I'm glad you posted this. Please forgive the barrage of questions. 

 

What are the numbers? Tamiya paint number and number of pipette squeezes,

How do you standardize the units of paint added? 1 = 1 full squeeze of the pipette bulb?

 

What method are you going to use to mask and paint the yellow parts?

How about the logo? Do you have logo decals? Are you going to design and print logo decals? How do you do that?

[Kiha66]

19 minutes ago, gavino200 said:

Awesome! I don't know why but color mixing scares me a bit. Not sure why. I haven't got a method to make it precise and repeatable. So I'm glad you posted this. Please forgive the barrage of questions. 

 

No worries!  I feel the same way, but I realized the best way forward to to just experiment and see what works.  Strangely there aren't very many  guides on how to mix paint online, so its been a lot of trial and error.  

 

19 minutes ago, gavino200 said:

What are the numbers? Tamiya paint number and number of pipette squeezes,

How do you standardize the units of paint added? 1 = 1 full squeeze of the pipette bulb?

 

Yep, each number is the corresponding tamiya paint number.  I can be a bit absent minded, so I know if I don't write down while experimenting I'll completely forget what worked.   I was using the lowest mark on the pipette to measure, and then the corresponding number is the ratio between the paints.  Its a rough estimate but I feel it will make finding the similar color again next time much easier.  I plan to get some empty bottles to put the finished color in so I can use it again with other locomotives.

 

19 minutes ago, gavino200 said:

What method are you going to use to mask and paint the yellow parts?

How about the logo? Do you have logo decals? Are you going to design and print logo decals? How do you do that?

 

For the yellow stripes I'll be using tamiya masking tape, as they are entirely straight so shouldn't be too hard to do.  A trick with masking is to first do a spray of the base color once masked and let dry.  Then you can paint your next color.  This ensures that any gaps under the masking are sealed by the base color, so runs shouldn't be too visible and the next color will be contained within the masking.

For the Logo I managed to find a page which gives the info in Chinese I can have printed for the sides of the cab.  Fellow forum member Paul (railtunes) is also planing to do a similar build and expressed interest in getting a few sheets for himself once I do get them together.  For the China rain logo, I found that Wikipedia had a .png file that could be easily traced and then have a few printed on the decal sheet along with a sampling of cab numbers.

[Kiha66]

Here's where I plan to get the cab lettering from, I should be able to copy paste it from the explanation of the various depots and it seems the default Chinese font my computer has looks close enough to me. 

http://www.ocemy.com/ts_nd5_1.htm

[gavino200]

7 minutes ago, Kiha66 said:

For the Logo I managed to find a page which gives the info in Chinese I can have printed for the sides of the cab.  Fellow forum member Paul (railtunes) is also planing to do a similar build and expressed interest in getting a few sheets for himself once I do get them together.  For the China rain logo, I found that Wikipedia had a .png file that could be easily traced and then have a few printed on the decal sheet along with a sampling of cab numbers.

 

I'd actually like a sheet if you can print one more. But even more I'd love to learn the method. Any chance you could post a short description of the process? Maybe in the  "Airbrushing techniques" thread that I started a while ago. I like to keep this stuff in one place so I can go back there and re-learn it after I've forgotten. Btw, do you mind if I cut/paste your paint mixing pictures and descriptions over there?

 

I'm really enjoying the masking/airbrushing process. I want to do a whole lot more of it. Where are you scoring the base model for this blue Chinese loco btw? I might have to be a copycat.

[gavino200]

11 minutes ago, Kiha66 said:

Here's where I plan to get the cab lettering from, I should be able to copy paste it from the explanation of the various depots and it seems the default Chinese font my computer has looks close enough to me. 

http://www.ocemy.com/ts_nd5_1.htm

 

Wow, who'd have thunk it!