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GE 25-tonner


velotrain

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While searching for reviews of Tsugawa power chassis, I came across this.

He uses a TU-7T chassis, but replaces the motor with one from Kato - as he says:

"which gives you the 12v motor, much better torque and speed control"

If interested, you can custom order one here:

http://www.randgust.com/Finished.htm

He also has an N-scale Trackmobile.

 

 

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Randy is a great guy has some wonderful models.
If you get the chance to see him at one of the show, stop by and talk. He'll explain anything you ask about them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Some wisdom from Randy, and a source for cheap gearmotors.

 

"I've done four rebuilds with Faulhaber motors from Motorman.    I've torn two of them back out and replaced them with Kato 11-105 motors matched to Gismoszone plastic 5.14:1 3v motor gearheads.   Faulhabers with gearheads are wonderful, without them they are just good, not worth over $50 each.    I can get an 11-105 for $20 and the gearhead for under $10 and get a better and smaller end result.

 

The Kato 11-104 you used has an excellent motor and a 'meh' chassis as there is no equalization.   You can slow it down (a lot) by swapping the big 42" wheels with Kato 11-105 wheels which are 27".  The metal retainer thing on the bottom can be scrapped.   That's how I did my trackmobile.   But the real trick is to get reliable pickup with that chassis.   I finally gave up and put a pickup trailer on it.

 

The 11-105's with a gearhead from gizmoszone would be my recommendation.   They come with a 3v motor, I swap the motor out with a Kato 11-105 so I don't have to mess with 100-ohm resistors and get far better performance.   But here's the link for the motor-gearhead:

http://www.gizmoszone.com/shopping/agora.cgi?product=Gearmotor;ppinc=1

 

The gearhead mounts on the motor with the same two screw holes.  You have to cut the Kato motor shaft a bit shorter and grind it to a "D" shape to fit the pinion (I use an abrasive disk).  I've now done a dozen of those.  You can leave the 3v motor on and pair it with a 100-ohm resistor, on a tram it would probably be OK but if you're pulling a load of any kind that resistor is really going to heat up and control is also a bit iffy.

 

The 11-105 chassis have the best pickup and equalization I've ever seen, and critters are all about electrical pickup issues."

 

/=/=/=/=/=/=/=/=/

 

I've placed an order for four gearmotors, and the shipping was cheap enough at $5. 

However, the company came up as Wut Lik Plastic Models Factory, so I won't expect delivery for a few weeks yet.

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Good info. Nice to know those little kato motors are good runners.

 

the other day when we were talking about the small chassis for the hongkong tram I ran across some 470uf tantalum s during caps that were pretty small and think those can go in some of the smaller critters to get them to run a bit more smoothly ans handle points better.

 

jeff

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The 11-105 that Randy likes won't work for the HK trams, as it's a bogie chassis - I'd forgotten that it was different from the 103 and 104.  Randy doesn't think much of the TSU units, but I did order a TMC100, and will evaluate it for possible remotoring when it arrives.  I accept that unlike the Kato chassis that I bashed, it is already narrow enough for the trams, and I've ordered a bunch more of them as well as some of the 80M bus buildings.  I'm now wondering where I can get a slew of HK-style color graphics for shop names and advertising - I don't care what the text actually says.

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I think the idea was to use the bogie wheelsets in the 2 axle chassis to make it run slower and have more tram like small wheels. The downside is that it's a rigid chassis, so power is only picked up from 3 wheels, which can be a big problem with insulated frog turnouts and crossings.

Edited by kvp
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They might but would not work well on standard nickel silver rail, t scale had to do a much more iron based rail to make that work. T had to do it as the cars were so light they just could not get any traction. 

 

Jeff

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Some german H0 scale field locomotives used one magnet under the locomotive and iron strips under the standard N tracks to increase pulling power but it didn't really help with the 3 point pickup issue of rigid 2 axle frames and imho using polarized live frog turnouts or wheel rim frog pickups are a better solution. Flywheels and caps also help, as well as using full voltage pwm control as it's less sensitive to dirt based increased track to wheel resistence than smooth dc.

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