Question about TM-20 chassis coupler

[nah00]

I use these on my Keihan trains - my question is there a way to hit a better looking coupler to them than the rapidos it comes with? The spacing looks really bad and I would imagine someone has made an aftermarket part to correct it. 

[kvp]

If the installed end piece has a reserved location for a standard body mount Tomytec TN coupler (two small nubs on both sides), then you can install any type of Tomix kinematic close coupler. Most trailer frames also have the standard mounting points for them. If your trains don't have these points, then you can install the bogie mounted TN couplers by replacing the T ended rapido couplers with any of the Tomix bogie mounted coupler kits. (the spring and mounting piece of the rapido is also used for these)

 

The distances are the following, from large to smaller:

-default plastic rapido couplers (these are not really meant to be used for running)

-metal spring rapido couplers from the Tomytec trailer and motor packs

-bogie mounted Tomix TN couplers

-body mounted Tomix TN couplers

 

The latter can pull the diaphragms (gangway connections) between two cars flush on straights and still allow curve running.

[nah00]

It doesn't have the body mount (first thing I checked but I want to double check later) so I'd have to use the bogie-mounted kits. Do you have a part number for these? I don't know if this is the right one but this is what HS has, not seeing much in the way of bogie-mounted kits:

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10114288

 

I have a feeling these aren't right because should be in grey. 

Edited June 21, 2017 by nah00

[kvp]

You'll need the T ended ones, not the loop ended type.

 

The black shibata is the 0381:

http://www.tomytec.co.jp/tomix/products/n/0381.html

but there are both black and gray ones (0382) in both shibata and janey form.

Edited June 21, 2017 by kvp

[nah00]

These little guys, correct?

 

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10032289

 

Looks like I'll get enough to do more than just my 3 Keihan trains. 

[kvp]

For shibata couplers (most emus) this is good. Dmus and freight cars usually have the janey (aar) variant. You can set the car spacing with the tomytec rapido spacers and the little collars that come with the set. You have to combine the bracket and spring from the rapido couplers with these TN heads.

[Das Steinkopf]

I use Kato 11-704 couplers on my 600's and 700, they fit into the Rapido socket with little effort and have no issue negotiating Unitram curves.

[nah00]

I opted for the Tomix ones but I may switch to the Kato ones depending on how they work. It says 280mm minimum for the Tomix ones but I'm thinking that's maybe a normal size car and not the 600 or 700?

Also it's amazing how once you start replacing couplers on one train it starts spreading....

[nah00]

Another question about these couplers...I was looking at my Skytree Train the other day and it has the same type of coupler box for the Arnolds. I don't want to cut the part off of the bogies so can I use these? I don't know how the spacing will work with them. 

[kvp]

Yes, you can use these if the rapido couplers have T shaped ends. Spacing wil be larger than with the body mounted close couplers, but better than with the rapidos. You may also adjust the spacing with the included tiny U shaped inserts (if they fit into the coupler box), but not as much as with the Tomytec spacers. Also the coupler boxes have to be accessable without damaging them. (the Tomytec boxes are just a piece of plastic so you can twist out the rapidos and insert the Tomix bogie mounted TN couplers, while most Tomix metal lid coupler boxes are also openable in a reversible way)

[nah00]

So was able to replace the ones on my Keihans, had to use the collar/spacer on them get them to sit right. They only take a few millimeters off but look a lot less clunky than the Arnolds that really stand out on a smaller car. 

Also did the Skytree train but it's kind of...weird. The bogie coupler on the motor is actually a plastic clip that goes under and behind the bogie...which means when you push the cars together it tends to get pushed off of the bogie. Also there's a post inside the coupler box to retain the spring which keep you from using the collar/space and makes them a big wobbly. Still makes a positive difference space-wise but I may just go the body-mounted route and cut off the bogey mounts, as it is now I have to couple the two pairs of cars off the tracks, put them on rails and then couple the middle. Once again a small difference (top set has Arnolds, bottom has TNs) but no big clunky coupler. 

 

I don't even want to start thinking how much it would cost to do all my Kokis...

Edited June 28, 2017 by nah00