EM13 in HobbyTrain commuter train

[kmcsjr]

Hi folks

I posted this in the international models section, but it's DCC it's an EM13 it's a HobbyTrain Commuter set. It happens to be an EM425 in 2011 Womens WM (Womens Fussball World Cup)... So technically Japan competed :-)

 

Anyway, I've given up on FL12. I got one to "work" on 1 end, but it didn't do the red/white directional control. So i'm parking it on a power route siding, so the lights are off, when not in use.

 

I'm looking for 2 things. Please

 

1)  Are there "good" motor settings, for this type of HobbyTrain train? Kickstart (CV65), PWM(CV9), EMF bits (CV57). I'm not finding a description and the train could maybe run a little smoother. Thank you

 

Edit - I'm reading Ken Shores EM13 description, I'm sure that will cover the settings. Still leaves me with point 2 :-)

 

2) I once saw a post (I have NO idea where, of someone hardwiring motor and lighting control, on one of these. Does anyone know a US based shop that would take this on? 

 

Thanks

Marty

Edited May 15, 2017 by kmcsjr

[Kiha66]

I already posted in the other topic, but I believe CV29 just needs to be set to a value of 39 (7 if you want to retain 2 digit addressing) to reverse the "forward" direction of the train.   My default settings are CV2=5 (this should be set as low as the locomotive will begin moving when in speed step 1, usually a value between 2 to 10 depending on the model), CV3=10, CV4=10 (adjust these for your speeding up and slowing down momentum, respectively, where a value of 0 is no programmed momentum), CV5=100 (max speed setting), CV6=50 (mid point speed setting).  If you have any questions, let me know!  I've had good experiences with these decoders, so I hope that they work out for you.  The majority of problems I've had with em13s and fl12s have been related to them not making good electrical contact, I'm sorry that they seem to not be working for you.  I recommend not using BEMF (CV57 to a value of 0) as digitrax has faulty programming that can cause issues with this enabled. Have you seen sumida crossing's write up on the decoders?  I've found it very helpful.  Otherwise digitrax's main decoder manual will solve most of the programming issues.  Hope this helps!

 

http://www.sumidacro...atoDCCDecoders/

[Suica]

Pretty sure it's a Kato model though.

[kmcsjr]

Suica,

You are correct. I just checked. (My Taurus Fussball models are HobbyTrain). It has been on a display shelf, for years). I didnt pull out the box.

Kiha66

Does a good FL12 control directional headlight tail lights? Also one of the FL12s works in one end, but not the other. The other doesn't work at all. I tried, for over an hour. I am afraid I am damaging the bottom cover from removing it, so often. I doubt I will find parts, so I am stopping, unless I find a better solution.

CV29 corrected the direction. I had to use 38. Perhaps I just disagree with Kato. I believe the train should be pulled, by the power car, not pushed.

It is unfortunate about momentum. CV2 is fine at 0. I will try lowering top speed, some more.

I have an EM13, coming from PlazaJapan, for my Kato GS4. I am now looking forward to seeing performance.

 

Thank you both, for taking the time.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kvp]

 

 

Does a good FL12 control directional headlight tail lights? Also one of the FL12s works in one end, but not the other. The other doesn't work at all. I tried, for over an hour. I am afraid I am damaging the bottom cover from removing it, so often. I doubt I will find parts, so I am stopping, unless I find a better solution. 

CV29 corrected the direction. I had to use 38. Perhaps I just disagree with Kato. I believe the train should be pulled, by the power car, not pushed. 

A good lighting decoder, that is set to the same address as the motor decoder will follow the direction of the motor. The light can be turned on/off with function 0, and the direction is selected the same way as for the motor. The FL12 could be inserted wrong way up, buring it out to always on or always off state. Inserted right side up, it will work. The decoder could be rotated horizontally to switch the direction of the lights, so when one decoder displays white the other displays red. Afaik. there are also mechnical on/off switches for the headlights, that could disable the FL12 decoder when set to off.

 

Correct way to install an FL12:

-insert it the right way up

-install it into one end in direction A, the other in direction B

-install the motor decoder the right way up

-test with the default address of 3

-turn on and off the lights, change direction to see if both are in synchron

-move the train and the lights should change according to the direction of movement

-if the lights are reverse, either reverse the motor direction from software or rotate both decoders horizontally

-set each car onto the programming track and program the new address

-check again

 

ps: The train is a bidirectional unit, so the forward direction should be the one labeled number 1 or A (on the prototype, this is usually also printed on the model). Push-pull trains are operated 50% of the time in push mode (famous example: Railjet) and this is completly normal and many Kato emu-s have the motor in one of the end cars, that could be on the front or back.

[kmcsjr]

Kvp

Thank you. When I find more FL12s, I'll try 2 more, because even the "good" one isn't directional. If that fails, I'll find a professional install.

But to one of your points, on programming the decoders. Since there is no way to get feedback, from a light decoder, I thought I could put the motor car, with 1 light board and the car, with the other light board, on the track together, and set the address once. Is that an error, on my part?

I get that real trains push and pull. Kato 425s... lack, IMO, he necessary weight, for pushing at anything faster, than a crawl. Add the awful growl, when pushing..... But, since CVs fix that, and Kato makes awesome stuff.. [emoji846][emoji846]

 

 

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Edited May 15, 2017 by kmcsjr

[kvp]

Kvp

Thank oh. When I find more FL12s, I'll try 2 more, because even the "good" one isn't directional. If that fails, I'll find a professional install.

But to one of your points, on programming the decoders. Since there is no way to get feedback, from a light decoder, I thought I could put the motor car, with 1 light board and the car, with the other light board, on the track together, and set the address once. Is that an error, on my part?

It should work, as long as the programmer has enough power to program all 3 decoders and read back is disabled. If 'programming on the main' is available on the DCC center, that should also work, just remember to take off or isolate all other trains beforehand. Personally i would program them one by one to be sure.

 

ps: Imho you should check the train if there is any misalignement or error in the light circuits as any short there could also damage the decoders. The lights should work in analog without a problem, including the correct motor/head light/tail light direction. If you look into the decoder slot, the single wide contact plates are the pickups and the single wide pads should contact them. The 4 narrower contact plates are the lights and the 4 narrow pads should contact them. In analog without a decoder, these should short together in pairs, but should not short in any direction after the decoder is installed. (any short between any of the contacts could damage the decoder)