Kato D51 2016-3 Drawbar repair?

[gavino200]

I picked up a Kato D51 from a local store. I got it for next to nothing because the drawbar was broken. I figured I'd be able to pick this up easily from a Japanese source. Bummed to find out Kato doesn't sell it separately. You have to buy the whole engine shell apparently. 

 

So I guess my only choice is to repair the draw bar. Any thoughts on what would be the strongest and most permanent way to do this.

 

Here are the two pieces.

 

 

Here they are approximated.

 

Edited April 18, 2017 by gavino200

[Kiha66]

If its a clean break (the two parts fit together well) then normal hobby glue would probably work.  If the plastic at the break is bent or other wise deformed such that they don't match up when you hold them together, you might want to trim them slightly till both ends are flush, then try gluing them.  If there is room you could also file the top and bottom flat, then add some very thin strips of styrene for strength.

Edited April 18, 2017 by Kiha66

[gavino200]

If its a clean break (the two parts fit together well) then normal hobby glue would probably work.  If the plastic at the break is bent or other wise deformed such that they don't match up when you hold them together, you might want to trim them slightly till both ends are flush, then try gluing them.  If there is room you could also file the top and bottom flat, then add some very thin strips of styrene for strength.

 

It's a pretty clean break, but it's at a point where there's a hole in the drawbar, so there's very little contact. I fear if I use regular hobby glue (cyanoacrylate?) even after sanding it smooth, it won't be strong enough. I've fixed a zillion of my sons toys that way. They're never all that strong.

 

I like the idea of using a styrene splint. It would have to be very thin. I'm guessing that's something available from hobby stores for scratch builds. Thanks. I'll do a search tomorrow.

Edited April 18, 2017 by gavino200

[Kiha66]

If you do the styrene splint, you can use binder clips to hold it tight while it dries.  Dont forget to put the power connectors back in before doing the bottom one though! 

[gavino200]

If you do the styrene splint, you can use binder clips to hold it tight while it dries.  Dont forget to put the power connectors back in before doing the bottom one though! 

 

Ah, that's the second catch. There aren't any power clips. I'll have to pass wires. That's not a huge deal though.

 

Incidentally, speaking of a very similar project, I removed the Tsunami from my C-62 this evening, to transplant into my GS-4. I'm planning to put a small non sound decoder back into the C-62 along with the stock weights. I figure I'll do the same for the D-51. They're very similar.

Edited April 18, 2017 by gavino200

[Kiha66]

I'll be installing a Digitrax SDN136PS in my C62 this weekend, I believe it should fit both the weight and default speaker.  I'll post updates to let you know if it works.

[cteno4]

Gavin,

 

You might want to use epoxy on this. Also use like 200 grit sand paper to rough up the surfaces for better bonding. Hobby shop should have something like 010x080 styrene to make splints. Those little scissor clamps you got will work great on these.

 

Jeff

[gavino200]

I'll be installing a Digitrax SDN136PS in my C62 this weekend, I believe it should fit both the weight and default speaker.  I'll post updates to let you know if it works.

 

Great. That looks really small. Let me know how it goes. If it works I'll do the same. 

 

I have to say, the idea of taking the sound from the Hokkaido makes me sad. It's been awesome having it chuff around. It's prone to derailment without the weight though. I've learned my lesson. I won't remove weight from locos again.

[gavino200]

Gavin,

 

You might want to use epoxy on this. Also use like 200 grit sand paper to rough up the surfaces for better bonding. Hobby shop should have something like 010x080 styrene to make splints. Those little scissor clamps you got will work great on these.

 

Jeff

 

Thanks. Epoxy is the 'two tubes meeting at the spout' glue, right? Any particular type? Sorry, I do everything with either, hot glue, cyanoacrylate, or rubber cement.

 

BTW what glue would you recommend if you want plastic to bond well but be fairly easy to remove. I need to get an new baffle for the sugar cube speaker that I just removed from my C-62. I stupidly superglued it in, and had to destroy it to remove it. I'd like to be a bit smarter next time.

Edited April 18, 2017 by gavino200

[cteno4]

Yep, two tubes. Usually I get the small tubes (many times on sale for a buck). You just put the same size dap of epoxy and hardener next to each other and mix well and quickly with a small stick.

 

Hmm it's hard to say w.o knowing what plastics and how much stress. Plain old white glue (PVA) can stick ok to plastic but then can pop if twisted enough. Rubber cement as well. If all it is to hold the speaker lightly then rubber cement may be the best option.

 

Jeff

[inobu]

That's a good break.

 

Bend the wire like this |________|   (a staple).

 

but the pieces together and drill the hole the same width. This will act as a link. 

 

Using heat shrink

 

Place the heat shrink on the long piece first then move it over the wire and heat (careful not to melt the plastic).

 

Use thread

 

Wrap the thread tight from front to end.

 

the idea is to make a splint with the wire acting as a link for the two pieces. 

 

Ichi

Edited April 18, 2017 by inobu

[velotrain]

I agree with Jeff - the 'two tubes meeting at the spout' tends to be marginally functional.

 

After the first use, one seems to become a denser consistency, so you find yourself trying to angle the plunger, which doesn't really work.

 

I find CA ineffective when there's any stress placed on the joint.

[cteno4]

Yeah the plungers cannbe sticky and also easy to get some hardener on the other side and plug the tip on the epoxy side! Also not cheap and rarely have I gotten more than two shots from them. That's why I like the little tubes as they seal well and super easy to dab out what you need.

 

Big trick is to mix throughly. For small bits a small popcicle stick or coffee stirrer work well. I save all the thin excess wood scraps from the table saw and chop them up into glue sticks for just this purpose.

 

The big thing with epoxy is to get well set up and planned before mixing. Then mix really well and get it on and claimed and set it down. Good mixing gets the mix really hot (physically as its an exothermic reaction and that's the term folks use to call it once catylist/hardener is in) so it will set faster and much more uniformly.

 

It's messy stuff. Wax paper bits work well to protect clamps and such and then easy to cut and sand off any partially bonded bits later.

 

Jeff

[gavino200]

That's a good break.

 

Bend the wire like this |________|   (a staple).

 

but the pieces together and drill the hole the same width. This will act as a link. 

 

Using heat shrink

 

Place the heat shrink on the long piece first then move it over the wire and heat (careful not to melt the plastic).

 

Use thread

 

Wrap the thread tight from front to end.

 

the idea is to make a splint with the wire acting as a link for the two pieces. 

 

Ichi

 

Ingenious as ever, Ichi.

 

The "careful not to melt the plastic" part is easier said than done. I think I'd do a few trial runs with spare pieces of plastic, to get the timing and distance right.

[gavino200]

Thanks Jeff and Charles. You've saved me from hours of frustration and cursing! :) I owe your guys. 

[cteno4]

Excellent Ichi, I was thinking the staple splint but thought might be a tad delicate. Since Gavin does microsurgery this should be simple for him! Forgot who I we were talking to! He can probably bring home micro surgical stainless staples from work.

 

But with fine wire and small holes drilled, could be not too bad. This stuff is great for these fine fixes (and a great site with lots of goodies).

 

http://ngineering.com/other_detail_stuff.htm

 

Set of micro drills and a pin vise if you do t have them

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20Pcs-Mini-Micro-Twist-Drill-0-3-1-6mm-Bit-Set-Hand-Spiral-Pin-Vise-Jewelry-Y-/361900055719?hash=item5442ec9ca7:g:ugMAAOSw5cNYml~P

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Swivel-Head-Pin-Vise-Mirco-Hand-Drill-Tool-With-2-Chuck-Capacity-0-1-3-2mm-/201843871232?hash=item2efed50e00:g:hzoAAOSwB-1YvTrI

 

Then apply epoxy and slip heat shrink over and the shrink.

 

Thread and glue are excellent holders as well around a splint. We've kept our old and ever splitting bamboo stanchions above by wrapping the ends with twine and epoxy.

 

Jeff

[gavino200]

Excellent Ichi, I was thinking the staple splint but thought might be a tad delicate. Since Gavin does microsurgery this should be simple for him! Forgot who I we were talking to! He can probably bring home micro surgical stainless staples from work.

 

But with fine wire and small holes drilled, could be not too bad. This stuff is great for these fine fixes (and a great site with lots of goodies).

 

http://ngineering.com/other_detail_stuff.htm

 

Set of micro drills and a pin vise if you do t have them

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20Pcs-Mini-Micro-Twist-Drill-0-3-1-6mm-Bit-Set-Hand-Spiral-Pin-Vise-Jewelry-Y-/361900055719?hash=item5442ec9ca7:g:ugMAAOSw5cNYml~P

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Swivel-Head-Pin-Vise-Mirco-Hand-Drill-Tool-With-2-Chuck-Capacity-0-1-3-2mm-/201843871232?hash=item2efed50e00:g:hzoAAOSwB-1YvTrI

 

Then apply epoxy and slip heat shrink over and the shrink.

 

Thread and glue are excellent holders as well around a splint. We've kept our old and ever splitting bamboo stanchions above by wrapping the ends with twine and epoxy.

 

Jeff

 

Thanks Jeff. Great resources as always  :)

 

I picked up a small drill just like the that, at Tomix World. It's awesome but only came with three bits. MUST HAVE MORE BITS!!!

Edited April 19, 2017 by gavino200

[gavino200]

 

 

Using heat shrink

 

Place the heat shrink on the long piece first then move it over the wire and heat (careful not to melt the plastic).

 

 

 

BTW my heat gun is giant. Do you use a small hobby heat gun or adapter?

[cteno4]

Micro bits are always handy. It's a delema as they can break with a slight blink of the eye! You can get nice ones that are stronger but still easy to break. Luckily to cut thru plastics the cheap ones work fine. If you have a paricular size you use a lot (and thus maybe brake) you can also get them in ten packs for a buck.

 

Jeff

[inobu]

To avoid melting concerns use nylon thread and wrap it around the bar and wire. Fashion the wire like this to support the complete shaft.

 

 

Wrapping black thread tightly and uniformly will conceal the wire. I use this method to hide my decoder wires from

the tenders.

 

Inobu

Edited April 19, 2017 by inobu

[gavino200]

To avoid melting concerns use nylon thread and wrap it around the bar and wire. Fashion the wire like this to support the complete shaft.

 

 

Wrapping black thread tightly and uniformly will conceal the wire. I use this method to hide my decoder wires from

the tenders.

 

Inobu

 

Thanks Ichi, you rock!.  :)

[gavino200]

Excellent Ichi, I was thinking the staple splint but thought might be a tad delicate. Since Gavin does microsurgery this should be simple for him! Forgot who I we were talking to! He can probably bring home micro surgical stainless staples from work.

 

But with fine wire and small holes drilled, could be not too bad. This stuff is great for these fine fixes (and a great site with lots of goodies).

 

http://ngineering.com/other_detail_stuff.htm

 

 

 

Jeff

 

Thanks, I just ordered some wire. That site, Ngineering, is pretty amazing. Lots of clever products I would have never thought of, like this one, my favorite - the jewellers bib :)

 

http://ngineering.com/Bib.pdf

Edited April 19, 2017 by gavino200

[cteno4]

Jewelers bibs are great when working with small parts that go sproing! Only thin you have ro remeber is to take it off before you stand up. Like the second time I used one I forgot and won't ever forget the second time...

 

Jeff

[velotrain]

Jewelers bibs are de rigueur when working with precious metals and jewels.

 

If you're sawing/filing or otherwise shaping silver or gold, you want to recover as much of it as you can!

 

And jewels can be considered small parts that you very much want to keep track of ;-)

 

To help you remember, perhaps put a map pin through the corners of the cloth to the corners of the workbench?

[inobu]

No problem

 

Inobu