gavino200 Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 I've noticed that Kato shells are very snug fitting when new. So much so that sometimes they're quite difficult to open for the first time. For me, they tend to get looser and easier to open over time. In one or two cases, they have become too loose. The shell on my E5 Shinkansen motor car became so loose that sometimes it hangs down (a bit) over the chassis and cam come off unintentionally when handling. I examined it closely today. Nothing is broken. No tabs or plastic bits. It's just loose. I managed to get it a bit tighter with gentle manual pressure. It fits a good deal better now, but it's not perfect. Has anyone tried warming the plastic up slightly in order to gently bend it back to more factory like state? I'm tempted to try this, but would rather not guinea pig my favorite train. Anyone have any advice? Link to comment
bill937ca Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Are they stored in a place that gets a lot of sun? Link to comment
gavino200 Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Are they stored in a place that gets a lot of sun? Nope. No direct sunlight. It doesn't look warped. It just doesn't fit as tightly as when new. I think the plastic shells have a bit of "memory" and stay slightly stretched out when opened. Link to comment
katoftw Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Cannot say I have a same issue. Unless you have removed the shells a lot of time again and again. For me, loose ones were loose when new, and tight ones were tight when new. Link to comment
railsquid Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Haven't noticed this either. Still trying to get the bodyshell off a 20 year old Kato ED75... Link to comment
gavino200 Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 (edited) Cannot say I have a same issue. Unless you have removed the shells a lot of time again and again. For me, loose ones were loose when new, and tight ones were tight when new. The E5 was my second new train to buy, and my first to open. I was probably quite rough with it. I was completely baffled by it. I remember staying up all night (really, all night) installing lights in the thing. I was extremely frustrated and didn't have a clue what I was doing. I even thought somehow I had to remove the "seating" layer. The tiny coupler springs came out and I spent forever trying to get them back in. I only recently worked out how this is supposed to be done. It's essentially impossible the way I was trying it. In any case I opened and closed the cars a lot. What's amazing is that nothing is actually broken. I had been planning to get a replacement motor car. I asked some people in the know if it was possible to sort of unstretch it. The consensus was no. I figured I'd try anyway. I'm actually quite surprised that it made so much improvement. Edited April 3, 2017 by gavino200 Link to comment
gavino200 Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 This is it btw. It's not horrible now. And it's not really a problem anymore. But you can tell it's still a bit loose. Link to comment
cteno4 Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Gavin, Yes opening trains with having to spread the shell some will bend them out a little. I try to use wedges to keep it to a minimum as when you use your thumbnails it tends to bend the shell out a lot. Before I put the shell back on I gently bend it back in some. This is why I try to limit my popping off of shells. Jeff 3 Link to comment
HantuBlauLOL Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 double sided tape, for a short term solution.. 1 Link to comment
nah00 Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 You can take the body shell off, put a bit of foam that's cut down to the size of the inside of the shell (or even use one of the inserts from the foam cases the cars come in that you have to take out), wrap the shell with the foam inside in a paper/light cotton towel, and wrap rubber bands around it just tight enough so it's pushing the body into the foam. Leave it like this for a couple of days and then see if it fits any tighter. 1 Link to comment
gavino200 Posted April 10, 2017 Author Share Posted April 10, 2017 You can take the body shell off, put a bit of foam that's cut down to the size of the inside of the shell (or even use one of the inserts from the foam cases the cars come in that you have to take out), wrap the shell with the foam inside in a paper/light cotton towel, and wrap rubber bands around it just tight enough so it's pushing the body into the foam. Leave it like this for a couple of days and then see if it fits any tighter. nah, your technique worked really well. It's not exactly like new. But it's very close. 1 Link to comment
katoftw Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Thanks for the idea. One of my 700 shinkansans has a loose shell. 1 Link to comment
gavino200 Posted April 10, 2017 Author Share Posted April 10, 2017 Thanks for the idea. One of my 700 shinkansans has a loose shell. For full disclosure, I didn't follow all the precautions, detailed in nah's writup. I just applied rubber bands to the empty shell. Zero damage. Great result. 1 Link to comment
nah00 Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 The use of the foam was just to make sure it didn't warp too far. I was pretty sure rubber bands alone would give you enough tension and after a few days bend the shell in just enough to fit tightly but I didn't want to be responsible for a broken train hahaha. 1 Link to comment
cteno4 Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Even a squeeze for a few seconds with the phalanges does it for me. But I do really try to limit my prying stresses on shells as I had this issue when a kid with old locos. Nah is being smart to limit the pull if left for some time, that's how plastic can really deform with long slow pulls! Jeff 1 Link to comment
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