Paroan24 Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 I recently got 2 Tomytec buses and 2 of the BM-03 that runs them. They say to use 2 LR44 batteries in each one. All the local stores have the 357 batteries that claim they are the same. The instructions are in Japanese but from the pictures it looks like you simply put 2 batteries in the bus and press the small white button on the bottom and they should work. I cannot get either one to work. I installed the batteries in the direction the picture shows but also tried reversing them but no change. I thought maybe I just got some bad batteries so bought some more but still nothing. Does anyone know if there is some other step required for them to run? I emailed the vendor in Japan asking but their response was no one in their office knows how to run the buses. Any help appreciated. Paul Link to comment
locidm Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 Did you buy the "tracks" to run them on? Link to comment
kvp Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 The 357 is a replacement for the SR44 battery. A different type with a different voltage. They might work but you can have contact issues and you can even install the batteries wrong side up, which could hurt the circuits in the bus. Also you should check if you inserted the batteries all the way in as the small edge around the opening could keep them from contacting both pickup plates. If the batteries are good and in place, a short press while holding the bus so the wheels could turn freely should work. Link to comment
JR 500系 Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 (edited) You can refer to the English guide attached here for the instructions to the moving bus system.. Like kvp has mentioned, I think it is because of the battery. It would still be best to use the recommended LR44 batteries https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=13&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwio5ufJqfXRAhVJ6oMKHaW2CTcQFghgMAw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmyshop.s3-external-3.amazonaws.com%2Fshop969900.images.Handleiding%2520TOMYTEC%2520busssytem%2520.pdf&usg=AFQjCNEhhpmbuJHXi03p6tlMm0OCK-y3rQ&sig2=fgu4tmobNPzNY_SzWeQxfQ&bvm=bv.146094739,d.amc Edited February 4, 2017 by cteno4 Link to comment
Sascha Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 I bought some Duracel, and they didn't work. Nariichi from Modeltrainplus told me to get cheap ones. Got some for 99 cent from E-bay, and they work perfectly. Link to comment
Paroan24 Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 Thanks guys for the help. I ordered some of the r44 batteries on eBay so will see what happens when I get them Link to comment
Paroan24 Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 I was going past a Radio Shack this morning so decided to stop in and check out their batteries. Asked about the LR44 and he said he had them. Handed them to me and I said these are the 357 no the 44. He said oh it's the same. I told him the 357 was not working and that I was told I need to use the 44. He got really annoyed and said he has been doing this for 30 years and they are the exact same but if I do not want to listen I can leave! So I did. Link to comment
kvp Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 There are multiple types of R44 batteries, the LR44 is the alkaline 1.5 volt variant. You can find R44 batteries with voltages between 1.2V to 1.55V. Most things, like flashlights don't really care about the voltage as long as the size is good. Some electronics, like the Tomytec bus require 3V to work, so two LR44-s are required and it probably won't run with 2.4V from two NiMh buttons or 2.7V from MR44-s. On the other hand, the bus should run on SR44-s as i did get them to work before getting proper LR44-s from a 1 euro shop (european equivalent of a 100 yen shop) but the bus was a bit unreliable with the SR44-s. (didn't want to start, then stopped in the middle of the road, etc.) I would suggest you to measure the batteries for voltage as they should read 1.5V for LR44 and 1.55V for SR44. If you have something that is above 1.4V and below 1.6V and they fit into the chassis, then they should work if the chassis is operational. Getting them in the right way up and all the way in helps. Link to comment
Paroan24 Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 KVP, So does that mean the 357's I have should work? Aren't they 1.5v? I put them in as far as they would go and pressed down on the top as I pressed the start button but nothing happened. Since I have tried it on 3 buses now and none work, I have to think it is the batteries - no? Link to comment
kvp Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 The batteries you have could be any type, right or wrong. You should check their voltage with a multimeter if they are really 1.5V and not something else in the same size as the number only indicates the form not the voltage level. The exact voltage is indicated with the two letters, two numbers format only, used by Tomix. Link to comment
Paroan24 Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 The 357 batteries are 1.55 volts according to specs on WalMarts site. Link to comment
kvp Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Yes if they are really SR44-s. The safest way is to check each one. The 3V electronics of the buses should be tolerant up to 3.3V, so 3.1V should be ok, but i'm not 100% sure. I did run a bus with SR44-s once Link to comment
Paroan24 Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 Well, I guess I will only have my buses sitting there looking good. I received the LR44 batteries today but still nothing works. I have 3 units, tried batteries in all and tried all possible ways to put batteries in the unit. Nothing happens. Link to comment
kvp Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Could you post a photo of a motor unit with the batteries installed? (installing the batteries in reverse might damage them) Link to comment
Paroan24 Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 Here are some pictures Link to comment
brill27mcb Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Without checking, I think they are upside down. Also, hold the little start/stop button on the underside of the chassis down for a second or two, keeping your fingers away from the rear wheels so they can turn. A quick push of the button does not do it... Rich K. Link to comment
Paroan24 Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 I tried the batteries every way possible. I am holding the button down. Link to comment
kvp Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 I never checked as it could be costy, but installing the batteries wrong side up might damage the circuits. Could someone check the japanese instructions for the correct info? Thanks! ps: at least two buses have the batteries not fully inserted and i'm not sure about their orientation, but they look to be outside the rim of the holder... Link to comment
inobu Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Unfortunately, you ended up with the wrong buses. There are two versions. The first version has the LR44 batteries. The second version has lipo batteries that are rechargeable. They come with a usb charger. The LR44 will just keep costing you in the long run. The line and hook is they marked v1 down when v2 came out which gets you. I caught it just in time so I have only 1 of the LR44 the others are v2. Try L1154 or 157 Them not working may prove to be a good thing. Try switching them to v2 even if it cost you more. in the long run the rechargeable is the way to go. Inobu Link to comment
kvp Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 There are no wrong kind. Some bus sizes are only available with LR44 batteries and there is no LiPo variant for them. So if you don't want to run one of the long european or american variants or the two articulated buses, then you have to get the non rechargable battery motors until the LiPo ones are made for them. Tomix said that there are no immediate plans to make LiPo based motors for all previous shells from the bus collection. Btw. the LiPo has a problem, mainly that you can't just forget about it for a few years as all rechargable batteries die if you don't charge them periodically. For the LR44 variant, you can remove the batteries and store the buses for years and still get them to run when you finally add fresh batteries. In the case above, either the LR44 batteries are not inserted fully or the circuits got damaged from reverse polarity or maybe they were bad from the start, which should only happen with 2nd hand units. With batteries inserted the right way, you can start them by pressing and holding the start button for 1-2 seconds and then releasing it, waiting for the wheels to turn and then placing the bus down on the road. Link to comment
inobu Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 If the plan is to run the buses and not store them for "years" then getting the BM-01 is the "wrong" choice in one respect. If convenience is a priority the getting the BM-01 is the wrong choice. If placing the batteries incorrectly causes the circuitry to fail then the v2 is the better choice. I guess it all depends on the users and what they would consider right or wrong. I'm pretty sure if the OP had v2 we would not be having this discussion because the bus would be on the charger or on the road. Inobu Link to comment
kvp Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 (edited) Many LiPo rechargable batteries are ruined by letting them run down and not recharging them right away. Even a few days in storage with charge at the turn off level are enough to cause damage. If Tomytec is selling replacement LiPo batteries, then it's easy as you just replace them, but if they are not available, then you might need a new chassis if you forget about one of them for a few months. Currently i have one LiPo chassis as the articulated one was only available this way. Had to charge it twice, total run time around 1.5 hours from 3 running sessions. The usb charger used was made by Sony. So far it's working, but there is no mechanical off switch, so the LiPo is drained by the onboard microcontroller even while in the box. Personal experience with rechargable batteries: I've used a lot in various Lego trains and after exhibitions, sometimes i forgot to remove and rechage all of them. When you have dozens of them in various cars (for power, lighting, etc.), then it's easy to miss one or two, especially when you only have two chargers, so you have to rotate through everything two at a time. Also due to self discharge, you have to top them off from time to time. After loosing a few standard rechargable batteries this way, i swapped to long shelf life nimh batteries from panasonic as they can retain charge for more than 3 years as long as you store them at least somewhat charged. For the lighter loads, like headlights, i use long life non rechargable alkaline batteries as they are good for up to 10 years with minimal use and a mechanical off switch to fully turn off the wireless receiver when not in use. (standing on my shelf behind glass or packed away in their boxes are not considered use) So imho non rechargable or long shelf life rechargable batteries are good for people who run their sets rarely, while lipo is good for daily operation. I wonder who runs everything they got every day or at least once a week? ps: A few years ago there was a talk here about someone in Japan who built a moving bus/car system with supercaps, charged on the way from copper strips embedded into the road. That system has a really short self discharge time while allowing very long shelf storage without killing the storage unit. Edited February 7, 2017 by kvp Link to comment
Paroan24 Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 I looked at the buses with the rechargeable batteries but only saw them available if you purchased a set with track which I do not need. I finally got one of the buses to work (BM_03) but after going straight down the track it suddenly went off the track and started going in a circle. What's that about?? I tried it again but it did the same thing but not in the same spot on the track. I made sure there was nothing sitting there that would attract the magnet. I am starting to think these buses were a bad idea. Link to comment
kvp Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Great to hear that at least one of your buses are working ok! Did you position the magnet above the guide wire? After starting, the bus must be let go in the middle of the road with the rear wheels moving and the front wheels looking forward and the magnet right above the guide wire of the track. If you have a bus stop, then its dedicated road plates have different wire alignements and should only be run through from the proper direction, otherwise the bus could loose the guide wire. To check if the steering mech is good, you can move the bus gently above the road from side to side (while being held ~1 mm above the surface) and the front wheels should gently sway as they try to follow the guide wire. Also check if the shell is not interfering with the drive mech, since an improperly fitted shell could jam the steering. Link to comment
inobu Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 (edited) I looked at the buses with the rechargeable batteries but only saw them available if you purchased a set with track which I do not need. I finally got one of the buses to work (BM_03) but after going straight down the track it suddenly went off the track and started going in a circle. What's that about?? I tried it again but it did the same thing but not in the same spot on the track. I made sure there was nothing sitting there that would attract the magnet. I am starting to think these buses were a bad idea. Try going over this document to determine what is happening. Tomytec Not sure if you have US track or Japanese track (single or double) Inobu Edited February 7, 2017 by inobu 3 Link to comment
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