Correct way to wire a DCC layout?

[gavino200]

Can someone tell me if my DCC circuit is wrong? Or potentially dangerous? I've been wiring it this way for years now with no obvious problems, but I want to check before I go further.

 

I don't have a bus, or blocks, or isolated sections. I just use those Kato 3-to-1 splitters. Basically I have one big 'tree' of wires leading to one single wire connected to the DCC box (MRC). I have one power joiner for each section that is isolated by a switch/point, and I add a power joiner at any section where the there seems to be a weak point, until the trains run smoothly everywhere.

 

Is this ok? If not, can someone link me to a thread where the correct method is discussed. 

 

Thanks.

 

 

[Ochanomizu]

Hello,

 

The Digitrax Nemo Junction Example may help.  Even the simplest of layouts need a PM42 or equivalent.

[gavino200]

Hello,

 

The Digitrax Nemo Junction Example may help.  Even the simplest of layouts need a PM42 or equivalent.

 

Thanks. That's dense reading for me. It'll have to wait till the weekend.

 

A quick search of PM42 gave me this.

 

http://www.digitrax.com/products/power-management/pm42/

 

It seems like my system already does this. It tells me immediately when there's a short - "Overload". I quickly switch off the box, and clear the short. Or if it's obvious and right in front of me, I just lift the shorting car/engine off the track and the system restarts immediately.

 

What is the risk of wiring the way I have it now? Should I power down until I change it? Or is it just suboptimal but relatively safe? If you could ELIF a bit, that would be great. After that I'll work on upping my DCC IQ a bit.

Edited January 19, 2017 by gavino200

[kvp]

If your central has short protection settable to N scale (around 2 amps) and switches off above that, then it's fine. As long as the switch off current of the central is low enough and the switch off time is fast enough not to damage a single shorting N scale rolling stock, then it's ok. This usually means the system has enough power to run around 3 trains at the same time.

 

If your central has no protection or a much higher turn off current, then you either need power managers like the above mentioned pm42 or you could use boosters with smaller current limits. In both cases, you have to isolate each block at both rails and preferably feed them at the middle. This is of course only required if your central doesn't have this low current built in protection, that most small systems come with.

 

As a first step, i would check if you can set N scale for current and voltage on your system (that would be 2 to 3 amps and 12 to 14 volts). If you can't, then you might have to add a few safeties, like a current limiter on the main feed if you are above 3 amps and a voltage dropper too if you are above 14 volts. (most digitrax centrals have a switch for voltage selection while european systems tend to bury it in the settings menu) With your single block configuration, adding a single current limiter will do just fine. You only have to upgrade the layout if your trains need more power than what is safe for a single train in case of a short. (usually this means if you have more than 3 motors moving at the same time, which is rare on home layouts)

[gavino200]

Thanks. My system is an 'MRC Advanced 2'. I bought it a few years ago because of it's simplicity, even though I was aware of the advantages of other systems, and that few people seem to use the MRC. My son was around 6 at the time, so I wanted one that was very easy to use.

 

It doesn't have an N vs. HO switch. It's a 3.5 amp system. Based on this paragraph from the manual it seems like the current is limited at 3.5 Amps. 

 

"Overload and Short Circuit The base unit is rated at 3.5 amps. It is up to you to note how many locos and accessories can be run on the layout at the same time without triggering the circuit protector. If there is an overload or short circuit, the base unit will stop Main Track output for 2 seconds then resume; and the fan will turn on (spins slowly) and off periodically. Please remove the overload or short circuit for proper operation. When operating larger layouts with numerous locos and accessories being operated at the same time or when running 2-rail “O” or “G” scales, you may need a DCC power booster. We recommend you use the MRC Power Station 8 to boost your DCC layout. Shutting Down the Unit Please turn the power switch to the “Off” position before unplugging the AC adapter from AC outlet. This will allow the base unit to store all current running information, including time, for the next session."

 

I usually have two trains running on the mainlines. We often do a bit of shunting in the yard at the same time. Occasionally we have run more. The layout consists of two long mainlines, a six track yard, and a temporary industrial zone with a four line yard. It's unusual to have more than three trains running. It's possible that we might occasionally have four - both of us shunting a train while driving a train on the main track.

 

Edit: I forgot about consists. It's not unusual for us to run six or seven locos at the same time.

 

We power junctions (and future lights) from the accessory hookup on our old DC controller. The only other power draw is a yard full of passenger trains with lighted cars.

 

This is a perfect time to change my wiring setup if I need to. We have a new layout, and apart from drill holes, nothing is fixed in place. I don't mind doing some work in order to have an optimal setup. 

 

So, I think I need a current limiter. Any recommendations?

And a voltage dropper. Any recommendations? Are they both different features of the same unit?

And I'm fine dividing into smaller blocks, as long as that doesn't make it more difficult to tell where a short is?

 

I'll take some measurements tomorrow to see what voltage the trains are seeing at the tracks and what the total current flow is with three trains running. 

 

Learning about DCC wiring and programming is my current "project". I'm planning on reading the manual for my system, the DCC section of Sumida Crossing, and all the sticky threads here. Are there any other good basic DCC sources you'd recommend?

Edited January 20, 2017 by gavino200

[gavino200]

Wow! I'm relieved to find I'm not the only one to ever wire a DCC system in this ridiculously simplistic manner. I just found that the Quinntopia blog guy (an inspiration of mine) started out doing the same thing.

 

http://quinntopia.blogspot.com/2011/01/bus-wiring-demystified.html

 

Following his lead I'm going to switch to a bus system. 

 

Still to decide:

1. Whether I need a 3.5Amp booster. According to Sumida crossing, if I understand correctly, my 3.5 Amp system should be good for up to 10 motor units. But I'd prefer to have a redundant system and not have to count motor units. I like large consists.

 

2. Whether to break up my system into blocks. One block for each main track, and one each for each yard. It would be nice to not disturb all the activity on the layout just because of one short.

 

I'm a bit concerned that if I broke it into smaller blocks, I might miss a short. Currently, a short causes everything to shut down and the DCC main unit makes a slight buzz and flashes lights. 

 

I wonder if I could wire up some kind of distinctive LED alarm and maybe sound to show me when and where I have a short.

Edited January 21, 2017 by gavino200

[katoftw]

Most trains without interior lighting only use 0.3-0.5 of an amp.  So your 3.5amp system should be fine.

Edited January 21, 2017 by katoftw

[kvp]

Wiring for blocks and then connecting up everything would give you the same results as now, but with room to expand later.

 

I would get a booster that shuts down on the first short and requires a reset to resume. If you have blocks, you can add another later if it turns out to be not enough.

 

The buzzing and auto resume is not nice, imho that should be changed to buzz once and power off on short to protect your rolling stock.

[gavino200]

Wiring for blocks and then connecting up everything would give you the same results as now, but with room to expand later.

 

I would get a booster that shuts down on the first short and requires a reset to resume. If you have blocks, you can add another later if it turns out to be not enough.

 

The buzzing and auto resume is not nice, imho that should be changed to buzz once and power off on short to protect your rolling stock.

 

 

I like this idea. Right now is a good time to set up wiring while the underside of the board is still uncomplicated. I'll wire for four blocks whether I split them up now or not. 

 

I'm leaning toward getting a booster, either now or later. I have to learn more about different brand compatibility. Sumida states that using a different brand would be fine, which I tend to trust. I might have to rig a connector to go between the MRC control unit and whatever booster I choose. The MRC literature seems to suggest that not using an MRC booster might cause some signal noise. But they would say that, wouldn't they. 

 

I agree about the auto reset. It seems a bit unwise to me. Sure, it helps if the short is just a momentary glitch like a loco going the wrong way through an open switch. But if there's a real problem it makes no sense. It creates a real panic to run and turn off the system. It also makes it potentially unsafe to leave it unattended.

 

I would prefer a buzz once and power off system. Is there a way to install that 'downstream' from my MRC unit? Have you any suggestions or pointers about how I would change to a buzz-and-shut-down system? What hardware would I need?

[kvp]

For the booster it's important to choose a brand that can communicate with the central. There are loconet, xpressnet, the good old cde connectors and half a dozen i don't know the name of. They are incompatible but some boosters have more than one input and work with a lot of centrals.

 

Turn off on short is a feature of a central or booster. European made systems usually default to this, but most of them have an option for it, so the user can select what should happen.

 

I would read the instruction manual first to see what options are available, how to change them and what types of boosters you could use. The cheapest centrals don't even have booster outputs, but afaik yours does.

[gavino200]

For the booster it's important to choose a brand that can communicate with the central. There are loconet, xpressnet, the good old cde connectors and half a dozen i don't know the name of. They are incompatible but some boosters have more than one input and work with a lot of centrals.

 

Turn off on short is a feature of a central or booster. European made systems usually default to this, but most of them have an option for it, so the user can select what should happen.

 

I would read the instruction manual first to see what options are available, how to change them and what types of boosters you could use. The cheapest centrals don't even have booster outputs, but afaik yours does.

 

I read through all the MRC literature last night. They don't mention any way to switch from 'turn off and reset' to 'turn off" but I'll call them on Monday and ask. 

 

There is a booster output. It's labeled "factory use only" for some reason. They make 3.5 amp and 8 amp boosters. MRC doesn't give any instructions about using their equipment with hardware from other manufacturers. They're known for not playing well with others.

 

I don't mind using an MRC booster if I have to. My MRC system works pretty well. But I have two main issues with MRC.

 

1. The equipment is sort of a "black box" with no ability to change settings. This was previously a main selling point for me. When my son was younger, I wanted a simple system. A few years later now, the simplicity isn't necessary.

 

2. I'm not sure how well I can integrate my MRC controller with other systems. I'm a PC and android sort of user, and don't like to be forced to use just one manufacturer for my entire system. At least now it will work with JMRI (which I enjoy).

 

If I can't integrate my MRC controller +/- an MRC booster smoothly into a mixed system, I may have to cut my losses at some stage and start again, with a more compatible system. I'm thinking long term here.

[gavino200]

Most trains without interior lighting only use 0.3-0.5 of an amp.  So your 3.5amp system should be fine.

 

 

Thanks. This is good to know. It means I can relax and enjoy running the layout while I carefully research and plan an upgrade.

[gavino200]

BTW, I measured the MRC voltage. It's 12.8V at the track.

 

The image below is from Sumida Crossing.

 

http://www.sumidacrossing.org/PhotoAlbums/OtherPhotosDiagrams/diagrams/

 

http://www.sumidacrossing.org/LayoutControl/DCC/

 

I'm likely heading toward setting up a (much) simpler form of this.

 

Differences:

No block detector

No real control bus - just two cabs and a computer USB adapter plugged into the command center.

Booster will be a future addition

I'll wire for two or more buses but leave them connected for now.

Multiple circuit breakers - PM42 or other. Need to research more.

 

 

Remaining issues:

I'm going to start thinking about my 'control center' as part of this project. I'd like to have some kind of centralized display panel and switch control, so that I could easily see which breakers have been thrown and reset them without digging around under the table.

 

I have quite a lot of quick shorts while using my layout. I'd imagine ducking under the layout to reset a tiny switch every time there's a tiny short would get old fast.

 

Also, I have to give serious thought about whether to ditch MRC and switch to a different system before I go any further.

Edited January 23, 2017 by cteno4

[Ochanomizu]

Most trains without interior lighting only use 0.3-0.5 of an amp.  So your 3.5amp system should be fine.

 

... unless turnouts and other accessories are also powered from the rails ...

 

:D

[inobu]

Gavino,

 

Here is what a PM 4 wired looks like.

 

The blue and white wire from the right represents the input power.

The plug draped at the bottom is the short protected out put that is connected to the track sections.

The red and black on the left is the power that runs the PM4.

 

In the long run I would switch your DCC system to Digitrax. The MRC system is going to be limiting.

 

Inobu

Edited January 23, 2017 by cteno4
Fixed img

[gavino200]

Thanks, everyone for answering my many tedious beginner questions, both here and in the other DCC threads I posted recently in. 

 

I've decided to switch to Digitrax and rebuild my system from the ground up. After, spending much of the weekend reading I believe I know mostly what I need and have a basic idea of what my plan will be. 

 

PS2012 power supply - overkill but gives room for future expansion

Digitrax command center - will spend this week deciding which one

Cabs - will research this week

No booster

Single bus - 14 or 16 gauge stranded copper primary wire

PM42 - Circuit breaker and to break into 4 blocks

Distribution wire 16 - 22 Gauge. I'll go for larger. It seems that the PM42 dictates smaller wire. I'll play this by ear.

No location detection

No fancy display - may be a later project

Switch control will be a later project

Lighting will be a later project done in tandem with modelling.

 

I haven't read the manual for the PM42 yet, but will do this week. 

 

I have two questions left to solve about wiring. 

1. I'm not sure if my blocks should be based on sections of the board or units of track - ie, quadrants of layout vs. specific tracks and yards.

 

2. The PM42 seems to dictate some of my bus wiring. If all my circuit breakers are in one location then I need a short bus-to-PM42 connection and long PM42 to feeder junction connector. Or I could use a number of PM42s, but I'm thinking that's probably overkill for my layout (2 main loops, 2 yards, and about 100 feet of track).

 

I'm calling it a night.

 

BTW for any DCC novice in future who finds this thread. The DCC resources I've found most helpful are:

1. Wiring for DCC http://www.wiringfordcc.com/wirefordcc_toc.htm

2. Sumida Crossing http://www.sumidacrossing.org/

3. The search function at jnsforum

Edited January 23, 2017 by gavino200

[gavino200]

Gavino,

 

Here is what a PM 4 wired looks like.

 

The blue and white wire from the right represents the input power.

The plug draped at the bottom is the short protected out put that is connected to the track sections.

The red and black on the left is the power that runs the PM4.

 

In the long run I would switch your DCC system to Digitrax. The MRC system is going to be limiting.

 

Inobu

 

Thanks Inobu, I agree about MRC. We're making the switch.

 

I appreciate the picture of the wired PM. That'll be helpful. I'm also going to scour the internet looking for pictures of under-table wiring for ideas.

 

Gavin

[inobu]

No problem.

 

The Digitrax stuff can be over whelming you just need to take it one component at a time and build from there. I went through the nightmare myself.

 

Notice the wire is blue and white on the PM4 is like the Kato's system. I did that to help me understand the wiring progression.

 

The blue and white wire is the common input just like DC. The image picks up after I took the single DCC output and placed it on a bus with 4 outputs. This is the 4 blue and white pairs you see connected to the PM4. 

 

The PM4 creates 4 identical outputs. I converted the outputs to 4 colors representing the 4 DCC outputs with shorting protections. That is why you see the connector to the lower left utilizing Yellow,Orange,Violet and Blue with the Brown common. 

 

When ever I see that color of wire I know it is the output from the PM4.

 

Because I also want to have block detection (know when trains occupy a block) I use this color code to connect to the BDL168.

 

The BDL168 will tell me when a train is occupying a particular section of track. The BDL is another monster to deal with in itself.

-------------------------------

My suggestion to you is to get the Zephyr, PR3, PM4 and BD4. The BD4 is the scaled down BDL168. It is cheaper $30 then the BDL168 $150. You will be able to learn what is going on with it and then reuse it in your yard when you move on to the BDL168.

 

 

The Zephry is the DCC control that looks like Kato's blue controller

The PR3 is the computer inter face into loconet

The PM4 is your short protection

The BD4 is the occupancy detection.

 

Here is how it would look.

 

The Zephry's output would be splitted into 4 outputs.

Each output is connected into the PM4 in which the PM4 creates 4 independent sections. 

 

The BD4 is connected to 1 of the outputs of the PM4. The BD4 will then create 4 outputs that will establish 4 blocks for you to connect to that will represent that section of track. You can then grow the PM4 out by adding another BD4 which add another section of 4 blocks. 

 

                                                                                        PM 4

 

    SECTION 1                        SECTION 2                        SECTION 3                       SECTION 4

 

BD4 #1                                       BD4#2                                BD4#3                               BD4#4

 

Blk 1 2 3 4                                  blk 1 2 3 4                          blk 1 2 3 4                               blk 1 2 3 4                             

 

Remember the PM4 is circuit protections and the BDL's lets you know what or who is occupying a block in the section.

 

So if a crash happened in Orange 2 Section 2 of the PM2 would shut down.

If Section 4 was your yard. Then BD4#4 could detect which line it your yard was occupied and report that status on your control panel.

 

 

Get these 4 pieces and you will be able to do the basics or your plan and a little more. 

 

Inobu 

Edited January 23, 2017 by inobu

[kvp]

Imho short circuit protection blocks should be based on layout topology and power consumption. A yard or station where the chance of a short is the highest should be it's own block. A mainline loop also, as a short elswhere would not disturb it. In this case, one dedicated block per yard and loop would be fine. I would put the pm42 panel next to the central with the leds visible, wire the main power through a short cable and then have 4 short protected buses go out from this point. This keeps every circuit easily reachable and the error leds visible. Also the longer bus wires are also protected against overload and shorts.

[gavino200]

No problem.

 

The Digitrax stuff can be over whelming you just need to take it one component at a time and build from there. I went through the nightmare myself.

 

Notice the wire is blue and white on the PM4 is like the Kato's system. I did that to help me understand the wiring progression.

 

The blue and white wire is the common input just like DC. The image picks up after I took the single DCC output and placed it on a bus with 4 outputs. This is the 4 blue and white pairs you see connected to the PM4. 

 

The PM4 creates 4 identical outputs. I converted the outputs to 4 colors representing the 4 DCC outputs with shorting protections. That is why you see the connector to the lower left utilizing Yellow,Orange,Violet and Blue with the Brown common. 

 

When ever I see that color of wire I know it is the output from the PM4.

 

Because I also want to have block detection (know when trains occupy a block) I use this color code to connect to the BDL168.

 

The BDL168 will tell me when a train is occupying a particular section of track. The BDL is another monster to deal with in itself.

-------------------------------

My suggestion to you is to get the Zephyr, PR3, PM4 and BD4. The BD4 is the scaled down BDL168. It is cheaper $30 then the BDL168 $150. You will be able to learn what is going on with it and then reuse it in your yard when you move on to the BDL168.

 

 

The Zephry is the DCC control that looks like Kato's blue controller

The PR3 is the computer inter face into loconet

The PM4 is your short protection

The BD4 is the occupancy detection.

 

Here is how it would look.

 

The Zephry's output would be splitted into 4 outputs.

Each output is connected into the PM4 in which the PM4 creates 4 independent sections. 

 

The BD4 is connected to 1 of the outputs of the PM4. The BD4 will then create 4 outputs that will establish 4 blocks for you to connect to that will represent that section of track. You can then grow the PM4 out by adding another BD4 which add another section of 4 blocks. 

 

                                                                                        PM 4

 

    SECTION 1                        SECTION 2                        SECTION 3                       SECTION 4

 

BD4 #1                                       BD4#2                                BD4#3                               BD4#4

 

Blk 1 2 3 4                                  blk 1 2 3 4                          blk 1 2 3 4                               blk 1 2 3 4                             

 

Remember the PM4 is circuit protections and the BDL's lets you know what or who is occupying a block in the section.

 

So if a crash happened in Orange 2 Section 2 of the PM2 would shut down.

If Section 4 was your yard. Then BD4#4 could detect which line it your yard was occupied and report that status on your control panel.

 

 

Get these 4 pieces and you will be able to do the basics or your plan and a little more. 

 

Inobu 

 

 

Thanks. I am tempted to include the location detectors now. They sound like a lot of fun, so I know I'd eventually want them. I'll make a final decision when I add up the beans.

 

I do want to use the PM4 do divide the layout into 4 main blocks now, rather than just using one output from the PM4 split into 4 by a BD4, and adding more districts later. I like that a short on one main block doesn't disturb trains running on another. So I don't want to use just one output from the PM4 split into four by a BD4 for my blocks.

 

If anything, I'd use the PM4 to divide the main DCC signal into for main districts. Track 1 and 2. Yard 1 and 2. I could put a BD4 on each of these districts to break them each into 4 location detector sectors. This is the situation you describe in you're schematic, right? 

 

Wiring for the yards wouldn't be affected much my this. PM4 visible next to the Power supply and controller. Then wires to each of the yards, where the BD4 would split them before they meet the feeders. It wouldn't be hard to add a BD4 at the yards later, as the wiring would be similar.

 

The track loops would be more complicated. Without BD4s I'd have 2 PM4 outputs running the length of my L-shaped layout (perhaps using y-connections). If I used BD4s I'd have four mini busses for each loop leading to the feeders. Is this it or is there a simpler way of wiring it. 

 

I can see that including block detection will likely significantly change my wiring setup, at least for the main lines, which would be an argument for doing it now, rather than later.

 

Regarding the Zephyr, it seems a bit basic. I had excluded it from my shortlist, but I'll look at it again. If I can add two walkaround cabs to it, it might be enough. We could theoretically always skip the cabs and use laptop/cellphones as cabs. But I think we talked before about how Wi-throttle didn't score with the kiddo. I'm sure we'll get there eventually but right now he likes his trains to behave more like toy trains than the sophisticated little models they are. :)

Edited January 24, 2017 by gavino200

[gavino200]

Imho short circuit protection blocks should be based on layout topology and power consumption. A yard or station where the chance of a short is the highest should be it's own block. A mainline loop also, as a short elswhere would not disturb it. In this case, one dedicated block per yard and loop would be fine. I would put the pm42 panel next to the central with the leds visible, wire the main power through a short cable and then have 4 short protected buses go out from this point. This keeps every circuit easily reachable and the error leds visible. Also the longer bus wires are also protected against overload and shorts.

 

 

Thanks. I like this. I'll go with this configuration. (With modification if I succumb to the temptation of block detection)

[gavino200]

This is how I'm picturing what the wiring would look like.

 

My layout 

 

 

This would be the wiring with the PM42 but no location detection.

 

 

This would be the wiring with a PM42 and four BD4s

 

 

I'm leaning toward the simpler wiring scheme for now, with a possible upgrade to location detection later.

 

Also thinking of using a DCS100 with two cabs.

 

Probably will hold off on the PS2012 for now.

Edited January 24, 2017 by gavino200

[kvp]

Yes, this looks right. For cabs, you can get one full cab for dispatch and shunting and one or two cheap utility throttles for running. The digitrax loconet throttle bus is just a phone cable based bus, so it can be routed to any place around the layout. You can get nice front panels too with 2 sockets on the front and 2 at the back so you can chain them.

 

The pm and bd units have to be chained on the booster bus so they see the track signal too. (which throttles don't need)

[inobu]

I'm telling you the Zephyr is the best first step. You will be able to use it now to build up and later on in the yard. The Zephyr will be your stationary throttle later but for now it will do everything. Its your best choice cost wise and other. After you get the layout going you will see the Withrottle is more convenient.

 

That's an advance layout....so you will need money for the build out....nice.

 

After seeing what you have plan you need to get Anyrail and draw it out. It will keep you in line with your geometry. Remember the wheel base of a train will dictate the radius of the turns.

 

That layout needs a lot of blocks and sections. You need to get the BDL168 for track 1 and 2 and the BD4's for the yards. Yard 1 needs 2 and yard 2 only need one.

 

You have to focus on the track wiring and pre-wire it for growth. Track 1 and 2 should have at least 12 blocks. Make sure that you put that many isolators topside on the track. You can always join them on the bottom side via a bus. Once you put the track down it is going to be hard to add isolators later. So install them now on the build...,it you dont use them fine at least you have them.

 

You need to also pre-wire the DC for accessories. Do the same thing 4 DC zones and you will be glad you did.

 

Inobu

Edited January 24, 2017 by inobu

[gavino200]

I'm telling you the Zephyr is the best first step. You will be able to use it now to build up and later on in the yard. The Zephyr will be your stationary throttle later but for now it will do everything. Its your best choice cost wise and other. After you get the layout going you will see the Withrottle is more convenient.

 

That's an advance layout....so you will need money for the build out....nice.

 

After seeing what you have plan you need to get Anyrail and draw it out. It will keep you in line with your geometry. Remember the wheel base of a train will dictate the radius of the turns.

 

That layout needs a lot of blocks and sections. You need to get the BDL168 for track 1 and 2 and the BD4's for the yards. Yard 1 needs 2 and yard 2 only need one.

 

You have to focus on the track wiring and pre-wire it for growth. Track 1 and 2 should have at least 12 blocks. Make sure that you put that many isolators topside on the track. You can always join them on the bottom side via a bus. Once you put the track down it is going to be hard to add isolators later. So install them now on the build...,it you dont use them fine at least you have them.

 

You need to also pre-wire the DC for accessories. Do the same thing 4 DC zones and you will be glad you did.

 

Inobu

 

I get your point about the Zephyr. I've read quite a few of your posts and I know what you've achieved with it. Techwise it's definitely adequate for a layout of our size. I agree with you.

 

However, there's a reason why a stationary cab isn't suitable for us. I'm railroading with an 8 year old kid. We literally play with this thing. Not mature modelling kind of play. I'm talking cops'n'robbers, disasters, train robbery - anything we can think of. We move stuff around depending on the drama. It's essential that we both have mobile cabs, and a long lead of cable.

 

For example:

 

Our growing police force, complete with unmarked cars and militarized police units.

 

 

Fire department

 

 

Hospital. Bad guys frequently feign injury to hide out there.

 

 

We even have the occasional alien landing. The military generally has to get involved.

 

 

And so on.....

 

 

I've actually already layed the track. The reason why I have the cart before the horse, is that I rushed to get the layout up and running for Christmas fun. I figured I'd go back then and rethink the layout systematically. Nothing is fixed in place.

 

This is the layout. I took all the trains off after it failed the quarter test. The MRC DCC system is also removed. It used to sit on the plastic crate. The MRC goes up on ebay tonight.

 

As you can see we haven't done any modelling yet. The base is painted gray as it's going to be an urban layout.

 

 

 

Phase 1 is getting the track set up and running. The rewiring is part of stage one

 

Phase 2 will be a tunnel and metro station (I know it makes no sense) in the near end. The town part will be on top.

 

Phase 3 will be to make something interesting out of what's now "yard 2". Haven't decided what, yet.

 

Phase 4 will be signalling and switches.

 

Phase 5 will be continual modelling, roads, buildings, lights etc.

 

Or something like that. 

 

 

I'm going to split up the track with insulated joiners as you have suggested, with multiple feeders, for future location detection. That will also cut down on voltage loss through the track.

 

I haven't read in detail about location detection. Obviously I want at least one block for critical locations like station platforms. But other than that, in general how long do you make your blocks? Or how long do you suggest I make my blocks? ie. one insulated joiner per how many inches/CMs of track.

 

I accept that wiring everything at once would be optimal. But I'm learning/researching as I go. I'd rather do this in stages. 

 

I'm planning to add a number of accessory buses later. I wan't to have as much control of the lighting as possible. 

Edited January 25, 2017 by gavino200