Sage79 Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 This is probably incredibly simple but I don't see a way to open the Kato caboose to add some weight. Those little 4 wheel cars are so light they tip over on curves at relatively low speeds. I'm sure NMRA standards don't necessarily apply but I'm used to weighting HO scale cars for better reliability. I don't want to damage the car so please help! Thanks, Link to comment
Kiha66 Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 With my kato Yo 5000 the roof comes off to access the inside, then the body shell comes off from the frame. This website has some pictures of a dissembled one. The kato version is towards the bottom of the page. Hope it help! 1 Link to comment
Sage79 Posted January 3, 2017 Author Share Posted January 3, 2017 Thanks for that link. Mine is a YO 8000 from the mid '90s. It probably is put together the same way but I still don't dare pry the roof off for fear of damaging the delicate edges. I'm gluing some lead shot to the underframe in hopes that that will be adequate. I'll report back after I've had a chance to test it. Link to comment
cteno4 Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 I'll look I think I have an 8000 and see if I can poke at it. Could try some shot in the windows and then a little glue to hold it in place. Jeff Link to comment
ToniBabelony Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 When I get home I might take a shot at it as well, as I have two for some odd reason. Link to comment
Sage79 Posted January 4, 2017 Author Share Posted January 4, 2017 I glued a total of 10 lead shot balls (I don't know what size, pretty small) to the undercarriage. It tracks better now although you still need to keep the speed down, which is a bit of a problem on my double track figure 8 up and over layout since trains slow down on the up and speed up on the down. Link to comment
cteno4 Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 So the cab top just pops off along the bed of the car. Just twist up a corner of the cabin and slip your fingernail in the gap between the cabin and car bed and the whole cabin pops off. There is a metal ballast weight there. You could cut a hole in the bottom of the cabin to add more weight there. Also you can fill the tank on the bottom with shot or tungsten powder from below the weight. Cheers Jeff Link to comment
Sage79 Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 (edited) Thanks Jeff, the pic helps alot with the clips shown. I may add a little more weight inside. Dirk Edited January 5, 2017 by Sage79 Link to comment
beakaboy Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 you might also check the wheel gauge. I have occasionally had to twist the wheelsets to adjust the gauging. I use a cloth on wheel rims while twisting as axle can be tight on wheels. Link to comment
cteno4 Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 You are welcome dirk! You'll have to dremel out the floor of the cabin to stack up more weight. Yes a wheel gauge is great to have and use! I've had good luck with my 8000 on the club layout. Only issue with it and a few of the 2axle cars is the rapidos coming uncoupled now and then, but usually rearranging cars gets this. The body mount rapidos are a bit more constrained than the truck mounted so more sensitive to small height mismatches and bumps. The 2 axle cars also just take the bumps harder than the 4 axle. But no derailments I think with it. http://www.jnsforum.com/community/topic/8041-sushi-train/ Jeff Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now