A rural micro-layout ( or at least the possibility of one )

[bill937ca]

For 1950s vehicles, like three wheel scooter trucks, Masterline, Contessa, Publica, Crown, Subuaru 360 try TGW (Tsugawa)   

 

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/search?typ1_c=104&cat=rail&target=Make&searchkey=TGW+(Tsugawa)&spage=1&ItemSeries=Accessories+(Car)

[cteno4]

Also a few tomytecs

 

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10316303

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10279817

 

Jeff

[railsquid]

Endoen,

 

you could just cut the tomix and Kato feeder to power pack wires and wire them together. just use the Kato power pack plug and wire to the tomix track plug end. twist together and tape or get fancy and solder and heat shrink.

 

Or a simple "chocolate block" connector?

[enodenlover]

Thanks for the suggestions but since I know almost nothing about wiring and even less about soldering I'm just going to wait until I can afford a Tomix power pack. I was hoping to save a few bucks by using my Kato pack but it's not a real problem. I decided to take cteno4's advice and leave the cork unpainted; the whole surface will eventually be covered by foliage and rice paddies so I guess it doesn't really matter. Last night I ordered the Tomix track from HS and finished painting my rural station platform and earlier today I removed the streetlight arms from a couple of the tall Kato power poles and transplanted them onto a pair of Greenmax telephone poles. Even a three structure "town" requires a certain amount of late night illumination. 

[cteno4]

endoen,

 

if you have both cables its really easy, just cut each in half, separate the wire ends an inch or so and strip the ends to bare wire like 1/2", twist the wires together and tape them up! you just want to connect the tomix wire with track plug to the Kato powerpack end. you can always reconnect them back to tomix-tomix Kato-Kato later if needed.

 

jeff

Edited January 6, 2017 by cteno4

[velotrain]

Supporting what Jeff said, but with a potential variation - which may or may not have been mentioned earlier.

 

If there's any possibility that you'll want to swap the Kato pack between Kato and Tomix track on any sort of regular basis, instead of just twisting the wires together you could use some sort of simple plug - I'm sure Jeff could recommend something cheap and easy that won't require soldering.

 

Of course, you could just untwist and retwist, but that would likely get old fast - and fray the wires sooner or later.

 

This would also be helpful if you build additional small layouts - with either track.

[cteno4]

Yes good thought Charles as there are lots of little plugs that only require crimping with pliers on the stripped wire ends. Then easy to switch back and forth.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Way-2-8mm-Mini-Connector-Kit-Motorbike-Honda-Boat-Motorcycle-Pin-Conne-T1K-/142130824213?hash=item2117a84415:g:42cAAOSwYIxX6RH4&vxp=mtr

 

Or even simpler a screw in set

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pairs-Male-2-1x5-5mm-12VDC-Female-Plug-Power-Jack-Connector-Adapter-CCTV-CA-/142148507910?hash=item2118b61906:g:N0oAAOSwxKtYAJy3

 

Enoden, if you want I would be happy to add plugs to your cables, you could just mail them to me and I can modify them and mail them back. Should hopefully be like a buck or so to mail them at the post. Pm me if you want to do this, I have a lot of connectors laying around or can get any you prefer.

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

[kvp]

The screw in connectors linked by Jeff are nice if you don't want to solder and would like to have something working really quick. (i use them for wall adapters, but they are good for any kind of smaller voltage)

 

There are Tomix and Kato compatible connectors from the crimpable type too. This actually allows standardizing on one type of connector for everything. The idea is to have one type of plug for power, turnout control, lighting and most other circuits, so you can mix and match various control systems.

 

ps: Both Kato and Tomix power packs are analog 12 to 16V DC types, with 12 to 16V DC for accessories. This means even the turnout controls are swappable between systems. (Tomix packs are more strictly 12V types, while Kato allows higher voltages, but this is not a serious problem for turnouts and the Kato signal/lighting power box also also outputs 12V DC)

[enodenlover]

I appreciate everyone's suggestions and thank you cteno4 for your very thoughtful offer. This is a bit embarrassing for me as it means I have to admit to a deep dark secret of mine: my knowledge and understanding of electronics has always been and continues to be pretty hopeless. It's the reason that none of my previous layout attempts have had remote control switches or working accessories on them. Maybe I should be collecting comic books or some other non-technical hobby but I love trains too much. Jeff, I'd like to take you up on your offer but first I need to obtain the necessary Tomix wiring. Can you tell me just what item I need to order?   

[velotrain]

Enoden - IF - interested, you might look for a basic electronics course at your local Adult Ed center, or elsewhere.

 

If nothing nearby, there has to be an Electronics for D______s book - should be able to find a used copy cheap online.

However, it may not be a good match to your specific needs - maybe Jeff can suggest something?

 

The Japanese remote turnout switches (and most things) are plug and play, so no excuses there.

[enodenlover]

Since my micro-layout has no turnouts and I don't anticipate doing any others I'm just going to be content with the limited knowledge that I have on the subject. Thanks anyway.

[cteno4]

Enoden,

 

No worries at all! I know this very well as a lot of folks have the same issue with electricity and circuitry like this, so you are not alone at all, its something that can really jangle folks.

 

let me look to see if i have the necessary parts here, i think i had some Kato plugs that worked with the throttle and i may have a tomix track supply sitting around here and i can then just make you a Kato power pack to tomix track adapter.

 

jeff

[enodenlover]

Many thanks, Jeff. I'll send you a PM.

 

As long as I'm asking questions worthy of a newbie, here's another one: what would you suggest for gluing Fine Track down to cork? White glue or a super glue like Gorilla Glue? Something else?

 

 

Bob  

[toc36]

Bob,

 

I am an novice also.  

 

I would avoid using Gorilla Glue for track.  It's a great adhesive, but ...

 

Initially, I tended to use more esoteric materials when less expensive options are available and work better.

 

Elmers or Mod Podge might give you better options for future changes.

[cteno4]

PVA (white) glue and modge podge (matte medium) are both good options and are reversible! flooding it with a little water usually softens PVA glues, but not matte medium once hard, but modge podge is pretty easy to scrape/cut off as its soft.

 

gorilla glue is pretty good stuff (its a urethane glue that is pretty tough and they also make a thick CA super glue as well) and might make it irreversible as toc mentioned.

 

also folks use plain old caulking as well and it comes up pretty well with a scraper if you want to redo things.

 

cheers

 

jeff

[enodenlover]

After checking out Mod Podge online I've decided that it's probably my best option for gluing down the Tomix tracks so that's what I'm going with. Unfortunately my tracks are still stuck in customs at O'Hare Airport.

 

Since my fictional Tsuburaya Electric Railway is supposed to be an obscure little interurban still operating in the late '50s, i'm wondering if semaphore signals might be more appropriate than block signals. Any thoughts on this? 

 

The "Tsuburaya" name comes from Eiji Tsuburaya, the special effects genius responsible for the miniatures and other effects in all of Toho Studios' kaiju ( giant monster ) movies from the first one in 1954 up until his death in 1970.  Along with producer Tomoyuki Tanaka and director Ishiro Honda, he is one of Godzilla's "daddies".

[velotrain]

 

Since my fictional Tsuburaya Electric Railway is supposed to be an obscure little interurban still operating in the late '50s, i'm wondering if semaphore signals might be more appropriate than block signals. Any thoughts on this? 

 

 

With no turnouts or sidings, I'm not sure you need any signals ?

 

If anything, I'd think such a line would use a key exchange, perhaps at a midway station.

[enodenlover]

Wouldn't some kind of signal be appropriate approaching a passenger platform? Even if one isn't really needed I'm going to have one just because it adds to the "railroady" ( is that a word? ) look of the scene.

[kvp]

What you are looking for is a static signal, usually in the form of a sign. There should be one for the stopping location, one for the speed entering the station and one on each side of a crossing (if any). These were usually static tables on posts or on the sides of telegraph/phone/overhead masts.

[enodenlover]

Today was a good news / bad news kind of day. The good news: my Tomix track finally showed up. The bad news: turns out I ordered Mini curves when I should have gotten the Super-Mini ones. The oval of track I got today will not fit on an 18" x 24" bulletin board, at least not without making unacceptable changes to the planned layout. I had to decide whether to swallow the cost of the Mini curves and order the right ones or to buy a bigger board and upgrade from a micro-layout to a mini-layout. It wasn't that hard of a decision; the layout is now going to be 24" x 36" and include at least one turnout and a few additional structures.  

[railsquid]

"Feature creep" :D

[bill937ca]

Which radius did you order? I have a 24 x 36 bulletin board which I stopped using.  I find the 24 x 36 board flimsier than the 18 x 24 board when I have to move the board.  That is without adding any scenery or ballast. Its also trickier to maneuver through a doorway if it has to be moved.  On a table top 24 x 36 would work OK.

Edited January 12, 2017 by bill937ca

[enodenlover]

Bill, you've given me something to think about. I haven't bought the 24 x 36 board yet so maybe I ought to rethink that expansion plan. Still paying off Christmas so it's not like I've got cash lying around to pay for the stuff that would be needed for a larger layout. Maybe I'll just go back to the original concept and order a couple of packs of Super-Mini curves. Thanks for pointing this out.

Edited January 12, 2017 by enodenlover

[enodenlover]

I just noticed that none of the Tomix track pieces I received today have the little slots under the rails where the two-prong power pack connection plugs in. Did I make an even bigger mistake in the track I ordered than I thought I did? Confusion setting in....help please.

[cteno4]

Yep that's where the Tomix power feeder plugs into a lot of track pieces. What do you think you did wrong?

 

Jeff

 

Ps looking for the Tomix feeder wires in my boxes that have this on one end to make you the hybrid feeder wire for the Kato controller. The Tomix end will slide into the Tomix tracks in those slots.