What did you do on your layout today? (N scale)

[brill27mcb]

On 1/5/2019 at 9:44 AM, AllenZ said:

Hi Bill.  Did this work for you? I'm trying the exact same thing and neither of my 2 Kato 24-850 N Scale Power Feed Control Switches work.  I can't figure out what I"m doing wrong.

 

Allen

 

Hi Allen, you did plug both a block feeder cable and a track power supply cable into your feed control switch, right? It needs an input cable and an output cable. The constant 12 volt DC connections made by snapping this switch onto the Kato power pack are not used by the switch itself and only pass through it to the other side to maintain  continuity of the buss.

 

You probably have already done this, but since you're stumped I am pointing out the obvious, just in case. You also need to be sure you are feeding power to the track on either side of the stop block.

 

My prediction (based on my own experience with multiple things running and multiple switches) is that with four plaza blocks and two stop blocks, and with the power feed switches all in a non-helpful row, Bill will add trams until he starts to suffer from "air traffic controller overload."

 

Rich K.

Edited January 8, 2019 by brill27mcb

[Drunkenclam]

I used the kato track switches on my layout. 

As what Rich said. The switch has a short lead to plug into the back of the controller and 2 outputs on the back, one switchable, the other a constant supply to feed to the next switch or send to a non isolated piece of track. 

Also on the sides you have the thought supply for point/turnout switches. But not effected by the switch. 

 

[Nornicle]

Paul why are you tearing down?!

[chadbag]

Today I bought 3 sheets of 24" x 18" acrylic and had them cut to be 6" x 24" for a total of 9 pieces.  I need 8 so one is extra.  This will give me 3 sides of my 4'x8' frame layout as safety fences.  The last side is my scenery board so all 4 sides will be protected from trains falling on the concrete.  Hopefully I can get these fences made tomorrow (Saturday).

 

I also bought a particle board shelf (since it has a nice surface finish) and had it cut into a 3' section, a 2.5' section, and the rest piece (which is slightly longer than 2.5').  On one I will put my DR5000 command station, the booster, and my loconet and XpressNet hubs, my switch controller, and my block detection controllers.  The other will have a programming track (using my minitrix track I got in a basic set) and the D&H programmer on it.  The last will have my DC controllers.   My attempt at organizing the electronics of the layout.  

[Pauljag900]

Can t wait to see it chad👍👍😀

[chadbag]

I drilled holes on one side of my layout frame, and cut dowels to fit.  I was going to glue the acrylic sheets to the dowels but now I may just press fit them in.  The dowls are up close andtight against the foam so they hold the acrylic in just fine without gluing.  I did glue one for a test.   They are a bit higher than I really need so I may cut them down from 6" high to 3" high (which will give me a 2" barrier -- is that enough?)

 

I also bought a particle board shelf and cut it into sections.  I mounted the DCC stuff to it (have not wired it up yet).  Trying to keep organized.

 

 

[Pauljag900]

Just an idea buddy,if you leave the acrylic at 6” that may give you enough clearance to put a lid on it when it’s not being used to keep the dust off?

so long as it was light enough,say like foamcard sheets glued together,just a thought mate and obviously dependent on your buildings height but did you say you were nt fixing them down.? You could always remove them I guess.

in my shed the layout needs a bit of a track rub once a week if I do nt use it everyday but the thomas layout in the house has nt been cleaned since the day I laid the track and it’s still running fine now,two months later,the glass lid is keeping the dust off.

just a thought buddy👍😀

[gavino200]

36 minutes ago, chadbag said:

  They are a bit higher than I really need so I may cut them down from 6" high to 3" high (which will give me a 2" barrier -- is that enough?)

 

Two inches is plenty. My plexiglass barrier is 1.5 inches and no train has ever jumped the shark.

[cteno4]

Smaller the better, even an inch would do it unless you plan on being Gomez Adams... the lower the better to get at things and the less in the line of sight. Really does not need much to prevent a tumble.

 

you can just install them by adding a strip of wood to the edge of the layout with a slot or long rabit joint in it for the plex to sit in a half inch or so. Then easy to pull it out when you need to work on stuff. The strip can also act as a finish moulding to make a nice presentation edge to the layout base.

 

On our new club layout we plan to just put the plex strips on with a few magnets countersunk into the edge of the layout modules and face the plex bottom with the same cherry wood veneer so it looks like the edge of the modules. Hoping this will get rid of one issue with the corners of the plex strips is they tended to catch things like camera straps, club badges on lanyards, and clothing (although they helped prevent these things from swinging onto the layout) once and a while. The magnetic attachment should allow a graceful breakaway if something is caught up.

 

if you want the plex edge to disappear more you need to mill the edge smooth with the router and if you want a really clean edge block sand it smooth with progressively higher grit papers, then use a butane torch to flame polish the edge to get that clear look on the edge. Now it’s smooth and a lot clearer so the edge does not catch the eye as much. Test with some scraps, takes a little practice but can look very nice. Several Youtube examples. Some clear acrylics (usually the more brittle stuff) don’t flame polish as well, again test first.

 

jeff

[chadbag]

I think I will split the 6" high sheets into 3" high sheets.  1" is below the ground level so that would be 2" above.   We'll see how that works out.  The main purpose is to keep the trains from falling off onto the concrete floor if they derail.  We sit higher than the level so the sheets, especially at that height, are not much of an issue in terms of view, for now.

 

Thanks for the input.

 

[gavino200]

My current plexi barrier rests on the layout baseboard and is sandwiched between the foamboard and the front fascia. There's also some glue involved. 

 

But on my previous layout which was a "board over table" design like yours, I used a very simple method. I fixed the plexi directly to the edges of the foamboard with adhesive. I then masked off the 'above board' part of the plexi. (ie. the part that will be the final clear barrier), and then painted the lower part of the plexi using the same latex paint that I used to paint the upper surface of the foamboard. It actually looked pretty good. It looked like the plexi barrier was somehow fixed perfectly flush to the very edge perimeter of the board. Just a thought.

 

I tried to find a picture of the plexi glass. All I could find is a picture of the layout before the barrier. The trains are about a half inch from the edge with nothing to stop them if they decided to head over the edge. We had.....eh....a few crashes.

 

Edited January 14, 2019 by gavino200

[Drunkenclam]

Another weekend of cutting, gluing and clamping. With a little bit of plaster on the side. 

 

[chadbag]

I started a more permanent "temporary" wiring today.  I made a bunch of KATO feeders and then wired up the DR5000 command center  and the DR5033 booster to the power barrier strips and hooked up the feeder wires.  I made 2 power districts, splitting the oval in half.  The command center drives the double track on the near side and the booster drives the double track on the far side.   I did this an an experiment on using two power districts.   Right now, each track in each district is only fed by one set of feeder wires.   I plan on making some more feeders and adding feeders to the other side, so both districts will have feeders on each end.   I used KATO insulated joiners to split the track into two sections.

 

I used 14 AWG wire to feed from the command station and the booster into the barrier strips, and 20 AWG to feed each track.   I will use 22 AWG to feed the non-track accessories like switches etc. (and may get a Tam Valley Depot DCC accessory booster for that, eventually -- for now, when I do get to the switches, they (the switching, not the track in the switches) will be driven from the booster, which is the power district  they are in).

 

I've been able to drive my HobbyTrain BR110 (ep IVb Orietnrot) around both the inside and outside track, crossing power districts just fine.  The track needs to be cleaned and stuff and I need to do more testing with stopping and starting and running multiple trains.  I have 2 Tomix Cleaning cars and I also have some DCC adapter boards.  I will get those adapter boards installed and then get the cleaning cars running around the track 🙂   Maybe this coming weekend.

 

Right now I am using the WiThrottleLite app on my iPhone as a throttle, using the Digitrax LNWI adapter.   The DR5000 supports various protocols and I have it set to Z21/WLANmaus as I have a couple Roco Z21 WLANmaus throttles but have not gotten them working yet.   So I added the LNWI adapter to also be able to run WiThrottle protocol throttles (and whatever other Digitrax things it may support).  I'm going to try and get the Z21 WLANmaus throttles from Roco working tonight.

 

To make the feeders, I took the Unitrack connectors and popped out the metal piece (easy to do from underneath), pish a wire through, and used low temp solder paste and a hot air based re-soldering station I bought to solder the wires onto the bottom of the metal piece, and then pushed the metal piece back down into the connector.  I messed up the first one or two I tried but then was able to make a bunch without issue.

 

I want to set up some rail yard siding type stuff (you can see the switch in the track in the back) and also a small DC oval temporarily in the middle to test and run non-DCC converted trains for now.

 

The biggest problem right now is that the BR110 pantographs stick up pretty high when extended and brush the underneath side of the small overhead station I set up.  I can hear it and tell where it is on the track even when not watching it by the clicks as it hits and brushes the bottom of the station.

 

Next step is getting the Z21 throttles working, then more feeders, and getting the switches to work.  Then to connect in the Railcom occupancy detectors.

 

ETA:  Also, on Saturday, I got all my acrylic shields cut down to 3" high, and today I finished drilling all the holes for the dowels so now I have a safety shield all the war around.  A few places the dowels a little far away and I may put a packing peanut in between the acrylic sheet and the dowel that holds it to make it a tighter fit.  I also cut down the green table cloth to just fit the top of the table today.

 

Edited January 22, 2019 by chadbag

[chadbag]

Update:  I got one of the Roco WLANmaus (Z21 protocol) WiFi throttles working with it as well, so I ran one train with that and one with the WiThrottleLite app on my iPhone.   Now to get the other RoCo WLANmaus throttle working.  That will be another night.   Time for bed.

 

One train is the aforementioned Hobbytrain BR110 (orientrot) that had two old Ep IV Fleischmann container wagons, and to which my son added a TaKi 1000, a TaKi7xxx or TaKi 5450 (not sure which), and a KoKi 10000.

 

The other was supposed to be the Fleischmann BR245 (TRAXX DE) with 3 double decker DB Regio Südostbayernbahn passenger wagons plus the fancy blue cab car (which is not programmed yet so seems to always show red no matter what direction).  However, Fleischmann in their infinite wisdom, ships the BR245 locomotive with Fleischmann Profi couplers, and the cars THAT ARE MADE FOR THAT LOC with Rapido.  I have a stash of Fleischmann Rapido couplers somewhere but did not want to find them tonight so I just got a Fleischmann BD182 (EuroSprinter, AKA Taurus) in DB Traffic Red and have it working with those passenger wagons for now.

 

I would be using Japanese locomotives but so far, the Japanese stuff I have DCC already installed are EMU and Shinkansen, and I wanted stand alone locomotives and a couple cars to test with (I could have just run the power cars by themselves but the visual effect is not so great).   I'll test the Japanese stuff shortly as well as start converting my EFxx and other Japanese locomotives I have, as I have TCS drop-ins for those ones for which there are Digitrax compatible ones.  Just need to make the conversions.

 

All in all a successful long weekend.  Now that I have a base system running I can spend 30 minutes each night and do a little bit more and still have a working system.  The major big lifting is done for now.

 

Edited January 22, 2019 by chadbag
go is not got

[Pauljag900]

Tear down of Japanese dream is well and truly underway.All modules and buildings etc have been removed and packed away in boxes and just a small amount of track to disconnect then the final step of removing all the foam from the baseboards.

I ve been unsure of how to construct the new boards.I had two choices,simply re arrange and cut to size the old boards and fix to the existing framework in a table type effect,or remove the old boards completely and construct new ones using sheet material and batons which could be lifted and moved.The reason for the latter being that in 5/6 years we both retire and will downsize our home and doing it the latter option meant I could simply disconnect in the corner and take it with me,however,given that it s 12’ long and 8’ wide with boards that are just about 3’6” deep,it’s unlikely I will find room for it in a smaller house,especially as it’s in a shed now as there s no room inside!!😂😂😂

So re arranging and having a fixed table affair is what I m doing,it s never going to move due to the size so when we do it will have to be dismantled.

 

I joined this forum almost five years ago and I ve always used the same name for the layout even tho I ve changed the layout more times than I care to think about!

So it will be re named in due course,inspired by a story from my good friend Alex,aka scottspensioner, one of the names is Fukuoka Station,

the other is NIKITASHALI station.

i can t make up my mind so any comments or thoughts will be welcomed👍👍😀

[serotta1972]

I vote for Fukuoka Station.

[chadbag]

Tonight I did the following:

 

• Got the other Roco Z21 WLANmaus (WiFi throttle) working with the DR5000 command center.  So now I have 2 of these WiFi throttles working and usable.  I also tried two different Z21 apps on the iPhone.  Since the DR5000 is not an actual Z21 some of the data layout stuff does not work, but I was able to use both the Z21 apps to drive locomotives.  I will explore them more as they have some layout capability and if I can define a layout on the iPhone and have it work with reporting etc that would be interesting.  (Long term I plan on programming my own iOS and macOS layout management and control and throttle control software).

 

• Made some Loconet cables and hooked up my 2 Loconet hubs and plugged the Digitrax LNWI module into the hub instead of directly into the CC.

 

• Made a mobile programming track with the D&H programmer and some Minitrix track I got in a starter set I bought just for the locomotive and cars.  I used silicone to "glue" the track down to the MDF shelving and also to make "bumper" stops at the end of the track (big blobs of silicone).   I  screwed the programmer and programmer-adapter and power supply down.  So now I have a portable programming track and can also do D&H specific programming including sound.  You can plug decoders directly into the programmer (I have the all-in-1 adapter) or on the track.   I have a cheap ($200) HP laptop I won in a raffle almost a year ago and will be using that as the programming workstation (since I have no other use for the laptop).  I used it tonight, after assembling the programming track, to program a Fleischmann cab car to be the same address as my locomotive I am currently pulling it with, as well as to program an address into a Tomix cleaning car I added a decoder to.

 

• Took one of my Tomix cleaning cars and added a replacement board to it from "Die Digitalzentrale" (digitalzentrale.de -- look under Modelle -- Gleisreinigung).  Thie board replaces the board from Tomix with one that has an NEM651 6 pin decoder port on it.  I  added a D&H DH10C decoder to it and now the speed of the cleaning motor is controller by DCC.

 

• Added a programming track to the Digikeijs DR5000-ADJ control center I am using, for the times I need to use a programming track and want to use it from an app or throttle and don't want to get out the portable one with the HP laptop.    I have not tested it yet though.

 

None of this is what I had planned, but ended up what I got done.  I will start working with the turn out switches tomorrow evening if I have time (and what had been planned) as well as make some more power feed leads to add more feeders to the layout.

 

[Pauljag900]

Nice work buddy,you re really cracking on with it now chad👍👍😀

[Drunkenclam]

An interesting day, involving newspaper, salt, a bucket of water and a large bottle of pva glue.

 

It shows I'm an anime fan when auto-correct changes pva to ova 😄

[chadbag]

I've not been idle the last few days.  Been installing decoders in locomotives and some cab cars.   Been doing KATO locomotives that all use the same or similar light board.  I'll eventually put some details in the DCC area on what I did for each locomotive but they were all TCS K0D8-A replacing the 3051 light board.

Edited January 26, 2019 by chadbag
Stupid SwiftKey swiping and auto correct issues

[gavino200]

On 1/22/2019 at 10:33 PM, chadbag said:

Tonight I did the following:

 

• Got the other Roco Z21 WLANmaus (WiFi throttle) working with the DR5000 command center.  So now I have 2 of these WiFi throttles working and usable.  I also tried two different Z21 apps on the iPhone.  Since the DR5000 is not an actual Z21 some of the data layout stuff does not work, but I was able to use both the Z21 apps to drive locomotives.  I will explore them more as they have some layout capability and if I can define a layout on the iPhone and have it work with reporting etc that would be interesting.  (Long term I plan on programming my own iOS and macOS layout management and control and throttle control software).

 

• Made some Loconet cables and hooked up my 2 Loconet hubs and plugged the Digitrax LNWI module into the hub instead of directly into the CC.

 

• Made a mobile programming track with the D&H programmer and some Minitrix track I got in a starter set I bought just for the locomotive and cars.  I used silicone to "glue" the track down to the MDF shelving and also to make "bumper" stops at the end of the track (big blobs of silicone).   I  screwed the programmer and programmer-adapter and power supply down.  So now I have a portable programming track and can also do D&H specific programming including sound.  You can plug decoders directly into the programmer (I have the all-in-1 adapter) or on the track.   I have a cheap ($200) HP laptop I won in a raffle almost a year ago and will be using that as the programming workstation (since I have no other use for the laptop).  I used it tonight, after assembling the programming track, to program a Fleischmann cab car to be the same address as my locomotive I am currently pulling it with, as well as to program an address into a Tomix cleaning car I added a decoder to.

 

• Took one of my Tomix cleaning cars and added a replacement board to it from "Die Digitalzentrale" (digitalzentrale.de -- look under Modelle -- Gleisreinigung).  Thie board replaces the board from Tomix with one that has an NEM651 6 pin decoder port on it.  I  added a D&H DH10C decoder to it and now the speed of the cleaning motor is controller by DCC.

 

• Added a programming track to the Digikeijs DR5000-ADJ control center I am using, for the times I need to use a programming track and want to use it from an app or throttle and don't want to get out the portable one with the HP laptop.    I have not tested it yet though.

 

None of this is what I had planned, but ended up what I got done.  I will start working with the turn out switches tomorrow evening if I have time (and what had been planned) as well as make some more power feed leads to add more feeders to the layout.

 

 

 

I'm loving these layout build posts Chad!

 

How would you feel about gathering these posts together into their own separate "Chad's new layout" thread in the projects forum? I really like the way you're documenting the major and minor challenges of a layout build, with step by step photos. It's exactly the kind of material that's most helpful to people doing this for the first or second time. Also, I think the DCC, trainsponding, and potential automation elements that you're building in are relatively unique. Most people who do these tend not to reveal their secrets in such an plain and helpful manner. I, for one, would love to be able to study your process in a chronological order and learn from it. I'm sure others would too. It would be much easier for me (selfishness) if I didn't have to dig through miscellaneous material to find them. I think your thread would serve as a good bread crumb trail for others to follow. If you're interested I can help to relocate these great posts of yours to a suitable home.

Edited January 26, 2019 by gavino200

[Sheffie]

I made a start! This is most of what I have right now. I’m expecting a Kato starter pack any time, and there should be 3 or 4 other pieces arriving this week. This is my first time to assemble Unitrack or indeed any model railway since I was a child, so I’m quite happy about it. 

Who knew that turnouts came with so many free bits? I’m really glad I didn’t pay for a set of S62’s

[railsquid]

Sounds like me about this time ca. 4.5 years ago :)

[chadbag]

@gavino200  I already have a "stub" topic for my layout, and as I actually start work on it, and not just a test tabletop layout on the layout board to figure out wiring etc. I will start to post things in there about the design and building of the layout.   The things I have been posting here are just more or less status on what I did train wise.

 

I want to post technical notes in the appropriate places (about decoders or hooking up things etc) and in fact have been discussing with @cteno4 about how to best do that for the decoder installations I have been doing.

 

Update on today:  we were gone over Friday night up in Wyoming (Green River) for a swim meet for the kids (and had only wicked slow coverage since I am not on Verizon so it was painful to access JNS Forum though I tried with some limited success).  

 

Tonight I installed a TCS K0D8-A into an EF81 (3021-4 Cassiopeia) that I got used.  This uses an older version of the light board that all the other installs used.  I took the bulb LEDs off of it and put them on the TCS decoder to get the same color light.  They are not as bright.  Probably different resistor was used (and these are SMD resistors and not something I want to play with) so I might just go back to the bulb LED that came with the decoder.  I'll have to see how it looks some more.  I cannot for the life of me find my Kapton tape roll (and I had it a few days ago) so I used some shrink wrap to isolate the motor tab from the rail power rails, but the shrinkwrap is a little thick.  It seems to work but I think there may be some subtle issues (like maybe only power coming from one bogie) so I will find the Kapton tape and redo that isolation.

 

I also installed a TCS K7D4 decoder in a KATO EF81-81 (3066-6  the one that you can add bits to to become an imperial locomotive).  While also an EF81, the chassis is totally different and is similar to the EF510 chassis and uses this slim decoder.  It is easy.  Tae the light board out.  Put decoder in.  Program.

Edited January 27, 2019 by chadbag

[gavino200]

26 minutes ago, chadbag said:

@gavino200  I already have a "stub" topic for my layout, and as I actually start work on it, and not just a test tabletop layout on the layout board to figure out wiring etc. I will start to post things in there about the design and building of the layout.   The things I have been posting here are just more or less status on what I did train wise.

 

I'd consider these test setups, a fairly important part of you layout build. "Figuring out the wiring" is far more than a minor detail. I think It would be a loss if you didn't include it.