Mudkip Dentetsu!

[Mudkip Orange]

So I bought the lumber. Here's the track plan:

mudkip_dentetsu.bmp

[Bernard]

Congratulations on the start! What are the dimensions of the bench work and what track will you be using?

[Mudkip Orange]

36x76, Kato switches, track = whatever I can get my hands on (mixture of Kato, Peco, Atlas...)

[bc6]

Congrats, I wish I had a permanent layout.

[Mudkip Orange]

So I've since had some major concept changes and am now constructing a new layout with outside dimensions of 40" x 71 1/4"

 

Here's the track plan, designed to fit into a bit of unused space next to my computer:

The spur tracks are both long enough to hold 8-car EMUs with room to spare - it'll probably look a little funny shoving such a long train around a little 11" radius oval, but I like long consists and any permanent layout has to accommodate them, regardless of space restrictions. ALL track is now Atlas, EXCEPT the switches, which are Kato #6's - I have no illusions that this is a long-term project, and I want to be able to salvage the switches for future usage.

 

Here's the board as it looks right now:

The tabletop is 5mm hardboard supported on a grid of 1x3s. The 1x3s are so narrow that I'm gluing them to the table first, then adding screws later for additional support. The random tool arrangement is to provide some weight to hold down the 1x3s while the glue dries.

[Bernard]

Mudkip - Nice work so far, what is the height of you benchwork going to eventually be? How do you like working with Atlas flex track? I don't blame you for saving the turnouts for other layouts they can be expensive. That is what I did with my Atlas #6 switches. They're probably the least expensive switches but can be a pain for adjustments.

Are you going to go from the Atlas track straight into the Kato switch or use the Kato conversion track?

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/product_p/kat-20045.htm

[Mudkip Orange]

I don't know, right now I'm thinking "straight in" (with wood shims if necessary) but we'll see what happens when I head out to Strasburg tomorrow.

[Bernard]

I don't know, right now I'm thinking "straight in" (with wood shims if necessary) but we'll see what happens when I head out to Strasburg tomorrow.

 

If you are going straight in, you probably won't need wood shims, the cork roadbed if positioned right (maybe with some trimming) will fit right into the turnouts. Here is a photo of how I did it with flex track going into a Kato Bridge.

[Mudkip Orange]

Finished the rest of the gluing tonight. Tomorrow I'll add bracing screws and apply primer.

[Mudkip Orange]

Table is finished, sides and legs painted with white primer.

 

Some assembly required:

[Bernard]

Looks good. One question, since I can't tell perspective from the photo, how is the reach (distance) to the far corner?

[Mudkip Orange]

About 38". I'm a big guy, so this isn't a problem for me.

 

About 40% finished with the track. As you can see it has now morphed into a twice-around. They had a 30-degree crossing at the ChooChooBarn for like $4.50, and I couldn't resist!

 

[Bernard]

Nice track laying! Looks very smooth.

[Mudkip Orange]

Thanks; I'm finding cutting the flex track is time-consuming, and a real pain in the keister. Do you know if anyone makes a rail crimper specifically for model RR use? Otherwise I'm thinking I might get a wire cutter for the next layout.

 

I'm also realizing that you can't lay flextrack properly using nails. If you look at the crossing photo, the track in the bottom right has a 2 or 3 degree kink in it where it connects to the crossing piece. If this ends up causing derailments I'm going to have to cut another piece and use glue to align it perfectly.

[Bernard]

I use the Xuron rail nippers and they make cutting the rails a breeze:

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/product_p/791-2175b.htm

 

Since you are going directly from the track through the cork roadbed to the plywood it is going to be hard to get the track nail through the plywood and you might break some RR ties along the way. I used either liquid nails for projects or Tacky glue to hold the track in place and then used T pins to hold the track down. When it comes to the ballasting and all the glue you are going to need to do this, the ballast is really going to hold your track down.

 

But if your don't like that method, I also used a small drill bit smaller than the Track nails, and drilled through the track hole to the plywood, then when I inserted the nail I coated it with either Tacky or wood glue.

[Mudkip Orange]

Yep, I've already broken a few ties, the hole in the Atlas track is a bit smaller than the 20 gauge nails I'm using so most of the time it stretches, sometimes it breaks.

 

That Xuron tool is exactly what I need.

[Bernard]

Yep, I've already broken a few ties, the hole in the Atlas track is a bit smaller than the 20 gauge nails I'm using so most of the time it stretches, sometimes it breaks.

 

That Xuron tool is exactly what I need.

 

The Xuron tool is worth every cent, it's made exactly for what you're doing.

Also why not pick up a box of Atlas Track nails:

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/product_p/atl-2540.htm

 

They're not that expensive, they're made for those track holes and for the amount of work you will be doing, it's worth it.

I would try pre-drilling all the holes you're using in the track just to make the insertion of the nails into the plywood easier.

[Mudkip Orange]

So the track and roadbed is complete.

 

 

What I now have is an electrically dead layout. Learning from SubwayHypes' experiences, I'm going to run electrical feeders to no less than four locations on the oval; the (operational) spur will be left to the mercy of the power-routing Kato #6.

 

I'm satisfied with the trackwork on the outer oval, but some of the inner flextrack is kinda dodgy when viewed in perspective (see pics). Such are the limitations of using nails and a hammer; any future projects will be foam, glue, and pins, so I can fine-tune the alignment before the foam dries.

[CaptOblivious]

Looking good! I've never laid flex-track before, but I've handled it, and I can well imagine laying it neatly is an acquired skill.

 

Do you have a theme in mind yet? Rural, suburban, urban? Any particular part of the country, or thematic elements you plan on including?

[Mudkip Orange]

Urban/suburban. I don't actually have enough money for scenery at this point, so it's going to be wood grain for awhile.

[Bernard]

Mudkip - Did you get the Xuron cutting tool? The track looks good and have you tested it out yet to see if there are any "bump" especially at the track joiners? Did you also solder your track joiners, that will help greatly for the electrical connections. Another thing, did you leave a little space at the track joins to allow for expansion with humidity? I'm attaching a photo to what happen to my track when I didn't allow for expansion.

[grumbeast]

I learned this lesson the hard way too Bernard.  The whole back of my last layout looked more like a rollercoaster than a railtrack!

 

If you have trouble finding a Xuron (and they are well worth it) A Jewellers flush cutter does the same job (but don't cheap out!  you really get what you pay for!)

 

As for the scenery, you can start with just some corrugated cardboard and a bottle of white glue (if you check out my personal project pages you can see how you make the scenic web with just those things.  My hobby finances are always feast and then famine so I know what you mean!

 

Good luck

 

G

[Mudkip Orange]

As for the scenery, you can start with just some corrugated cardboard and a bottle of white glue

 

Actually, this is as far as this project goes, as I'm moving next week! (I had a sneaking suspicion this might be a possibility, but didn't think it'd come up this quickly!) Mudkip Dentetsu I is thus stillborn, trackage finished but unwired, and will be stored in a closet in my parents' house outside Philly.

 

Due to the nature of my living situation over the next year, the next iteration will be entirely Unitrack.

[serenityFan]

Mudkip - Did you get the Xuron cutting tool? The track looks good and have you tested it out yet to see if there are any "bump" especially at the track joiners? Did you also solder your track joiners, that will help greatly for the electrical connections. Another thing, did you leave a little space at the track joins to allow for expansion with humidity? I'm attaching a photo to what happen to my track when I didn't allow for expansion.

 

Just curious here with flextrack, how do you leave space to allow for expansion if you solder the tracks together?

[Bernard]

What I do is as I get everything ready to solder with the flex track, I then take a razor blade and insert it between the track at the rail joins and push it apart just a little bit, then I solder. You don't want it too much of a gap or the trains might derail. That little gap helps with the change of seasons when the track expands and contracts.

 

Mudkip - Did you get the Xuron cutting tool? The track looks good and have you tested it out yet to see if there are any "bump" especially at the track joiners? Did you also solder your track joiners, that will help greatly for the electrical connections. Another thing, did you leave a little space at the track joins to allow for expansion with humidity? I'm attaching a photo to what happen to my track when I didn't allow for expansion.

 

Just curious here with flextrack, how do you leave space to allow for expansion if you solder the tracks together?