Questions for a Newby

[Paroan24]

Velotrain,  I had written down some of the Tomix track I was planning to order from Plaza Japan.  I know the exact pricing but would have to get an invoice for the combined shipping total.  I checked 3 of the items on both the sites you recommended.  Loco1hobby was .04-.06 cents higher on each item of track.  He was about $.10 cents cheaper on starter sets.  I have no idea about shipping.

Modeltrain+ was about $.50 cents higher on each item and again, I do not know about shipping.

 

So unless they charge much less for shipping, seems like they are not cheaper than PlazaJapan, at least on the track.

[Paroan24]

Cteno4,  As it would seem simpler for me, I am looking for the Y cables now.  Do not see any on Ebay but will look at some of the vendors.

[Paroan24]

No luck finding the Y feeder cables

[velotrain]

Velotrain,  I had written down some of the Tomix track I was planning to order from Plaza Japan.  I know the exact pricing but would have to get an invoice for the combined shipping total.  I checked 3 of the items on both the sites you recommended.  Loco1hobby was .04-.06 cents higher on each item of track.  He was about $.10 cents cheaper on starter sets.  I have no idea about shipping.

Modeltrain+ was about $.50 cents higher on each item and again, I do not know about shipping.

 

So unless they charge much less for shipping, seems like they are not cheaper than PlazaJapan, at least on the track.

 

Well - I'm surprised, but I was just reporting the preferences of a majority of forum members.

 

I know that at least L1H generally gives a discount from list on new train sets, I believe greater than MTP but less than AmiAmi.

 

If you do a forum search on any of the dealers, you'll find plenty of feedback.

 

You could try asking both PJ and the other dealers what the shipping would be for your sample order.

 

 

If you haven't discovered it yet, the usual shipping options are EMS (insured, less than a week), and SAL (all variations take 2-4 weeks, with regular - no coverage, and registered, which has minimal insurance -, I think 6000 yen.)  I believe most guys find regular SAL reliable, but it may depend on your local P.O.

[Paroan24]

Cten04 -    Jeff,  If you could show me in pics how you wire using the blocks, that would be great.  Is it possible to wire to the Tomix feeders so I can simply plug them to the tracks?  I can order just the regular feed.

Thanks!

[serotta1972]

Hi Paroan,

I have a Tomix 5506 TCS Power Unit N-1001-CL - $50 plus shipping (Like new, used once). Let me know, Im in CA, USA.

 

-Junior

[velotrain]

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10079356

[serotta1972]

I also have a Tomix 5507 for $35 - it came in a starter set.  Also used once.  It's just sitting in a box so it's priced to sell and trying to help a fellow hobbyist out.  :)

Edited September 4, 2016 by serotta1972

[Paroan24]

serotta197,   Please email me at paroan2001@yahoo.com

 

Paul

[cteno4]

Plazajapan at times does not increase its dollar prices when the yen goes up for quite a while, whereas all the other Japanese shops selling directly are in yen so you pay current exchange rate. Plaza is pretty good at combining, but can be expensive sometimes for shipping.

 

The big Bennie of loco1 and mtp is they will do more custom orders for you if they don't have particular things in stock and are very personal service oriented.

 

One thing with Sal is to keep the packages not too big as over 1kg prices start going up, EMS prices just went up and can be quite a lot for bulkier orders. You can get shipping estimates on your shopping cart with mtp to see when things get bad on weight and size.

 

Sal is a good option to save money. Never lost a package out of hundred of them over the years. After a few Sal shippments you have saved enough to self insure yourself just incase you ever do loose a package. I've saved thousands of dollars over the years using Sal over EMS.

 

Jeff

[Paroan24]

Velotrain & Jeff,  I contacted David at loco1 and he did have 2 of the "Y" feeder cables.  I ordered both of them plus some fine track.  As much as I wanted to, I did not go crazy with my order since it is the 

first time and I want to test the waters.  I did use SAL for the shipping.

 

I really appreciate the time you have both taken to help me and for pointing out loco1.  The track came out to about $1.50 more than JapanPlaza but the fact that you guys like loco1, that is worth it.

 

Thanks again and I will let you know when I receive the box.

[velotrain]

Plazajapan at times does not increase its dollar prices when the yen goes up for quite a while, whereas all the other Japanese shops selling directly are in yen so you pay current exchange rate.

 

 

Good point Jeff - I hadn't considered that, and I'm sure it's the only reason that PJ is cheaper at the moment.

 

My impression is that they take 50% off shipping for the second (and additional?) items, while the other dealers calculate a true (accurate) weight-based amount.

[cteno4]

On average plaza seems a bit over the other regular options but not by much. I've and (and heard) of a range of combined shipping from good to not so good. Some odd items like some of the tomytec vehicle sets were always cheaper with shipping form plaza most all the time.

 

Jun has been a very solid seller and been in the game a long time. Using ebay he was a great source for many buyers here in the states that were leary of ordering directly from overseas and like having ebay structure and backing there.

 

Really boils down to what you feel comfortable with the best and suits your needs and buying style.

 

Jeff

[Paroan24]

Well I am confused again.  I found a picture of the Tomix "Y" feeder cable and it does not make sense to me.  Obviously I am not understanding this.

 

On the current feeder cable I have the white plug goes into the power controller and the other end has the 2 prong piece that fits to the track.  I assumed the "Y" feeder would have a white plug at the end and then the 2 offset cables would have the prongs.  Looking at the picture it has the white plug on all 3 ends.  So how does this fit to the track???

[Paroan24]

 

 

Here is a picture of the cable

[kvp]

The Y cable has 1 plug and 2 sockets. It's just an extension/distribution cable and does not have feeders built in. This allows multiple cables to be chained together with the normal feeders added to the ends.

[Paroan24]

Oh so I need to get some regular feeders and they plug into the ends of the "Y"?

[velotrain]

Yup - 3 more

 

Based on Jeff's recommended spacing, you may (or may not) need more splitters in the future.

 

I was also going to suggest that you see if any future track needs add up to be close to one of the pre-packaged add-on sets.  In theory, it should be less expensive than the individual packages.

[cteno4]

Paroran,

 

Of course if you want to wire 4 feeders you will need 3Ys and 4 feeders

 

I would really suggest just using the terminal block and buying feeders and just cutting them and wiring one from the block to the controller with its plug and on the other side you can screw in as many feeder ends you end up needing. You can even cut up the terminal strip into just pairs of terminals to add extender lengths of wire. This way you just have to cut and strip and screw down on the terminal blocks, no soldering required and simple to add in more feeders if needed. Terminal blocks are a buck for 12 positions on ebay and take a couple of weeks with the free shipping. You can find them at electronics shops around you, but can be quite a bit more at times.

 

I can snap some Picts of how you wire one if you want, it's really simple and versatile way to wire without soldering.

 

There are also things called suitcase connectors that you can either join to wires or T one wire off the middle of another by just clipping the little housing over the wires and then squeezing it with pliers to force a metal connector into each wire. Very quick way to join wires and insulate them w.o soldering or even stripping the insulation back!

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Wire-Connectors-Terminals-Crimp-Quick-Splice-Electrical-22-18AWG-Red-/322225574990?hash=item4b0624144e:g:zx4AAOSw9NdXrbgw

 

Jeff

[Paroan24]

Yes Jeff, please show how you wire the block.  Thanks!

[Paroan24]

Jeff,  I know this is a lot more $ than the one from China but is it basically the same thing?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gould-Modicon-MA-8202-002-Terminal-Blocks-10A-300V-Lot-of-3-/271741314376?hash=item3f450b6548:g:LAwAAOSw-W5Uts4l

[cteno4]

There are a huge variety of specialized terminal blocks (also called barrier strips) out there and that is one of them! They can be very expensive.

 

Generally there are two types commonly in general train layout wiring. The simple ones are strips of 2-12 pairs of terminals usually. Each pair has a terminal at the same location on each side and is connected to each other. So you can run say a power wire into one side then screw in a number of feeder wires into its paired terminal on the other side. This lets you connect and disconnect wires easily as well as be a break out point for your wiring and a better way to organize it and requires no soldering or insulation of the soldered joints with tape or heat shrink.

 

Screw terminal ones that you either have to loop the stripped wire under the screw terminal or crimp on a u spade connector on the wire end. Some have washers that help slip in bare wire ends.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/600V-15A-12-Positions-Covered-Screw-Terminal-Barrier-Strip-CP-/331843337256?hash=item4d43677c28:g:gYcAAOSwiYFXIrhR

 

Or the euro style where each terminal had a little O you can insert the stripped wire end(s) into and the screw down on a screw that is on top to clamp the O down on the wires to hold them

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10A-Terminal-Block-12-Position-Barrier-Wire-Connector-Type-H-T1K-/360767105847?hash=item53ff652b37:g:2iUAAOxy4M5R~ILC

 

There are a variety of them. Here is a little 2 pole one that had press down levers to secure the wires instead of screws. These don't hold quite as well and bumping the lever can release the wire by accident.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-CH-2-Press-Type-Electric-Connection-Quick-Wiring-Terminal-for-LED-Lighting-/252425665142?hash=item3ac5bdfa76:g:3K4AAOSwjXRXYQK8

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

[katoftw]

Large track packs are not always cheaper.  A lot of styrofoam and packaging are included so shipping can be crazy high.  Some packs if sent from Japan can only be by EMS for example.  Where lots of little 4 pack track pieces can go into a much smaller SAL box.  you just have to do your calculations on what you require and what options work out cheaper for you.

[Paroan24]

I will be ending up with 3 Tomix controllers:   N-1(came with a set), N-600, & N-1001-CL

 

All say 100 volts.  Do I need to get any kind of converter to plug them into or will they be ok as is?

[cteno4]

Paroan,

 

Yes it's best to do that as it can probably handle 120v (I'm assuming you are in North America), as these are usually built to handle a bit more, but with time could blow something so woth $30 or so investment to protect them and be safe as well.

 

Simple step down transformer will do. Lots of them out there.

 

https://www.amazon.com/PowerBright-Vc500J-Transformer-Step-Japan/dp/B000J1ANSY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1473103043&sr=8-4&keywords=100v+to+120v+converter

 

Probably better to go with 500w. The power packs probably only draw 20w or so each, but better to overkill. Also best to get a grounded plug with this sort of thing.

 

There is the Internet lore out there that some home insurance policies don't like the use of these types of step up/step down transformers, so a safe thing to do is to always unplug them when not in use so if there ever were a fire (from something else) they can't say they have evidence one was plugged in and I use and caused the fire. I don't mean to sound paranoid it's just insurance companies tend to like it when they can find an easy out. All this may be just urban myth, I've meant to call our agent to check but I don't use any 100v so not been pressing to satisfy curiosity. These transformers won't cause a fire! Or call your insurance company and check, may not have a restriction and it's all bunk!

 

Cheers,

 

Jeff