Z Scale Fish Tank Layout

[gerryo]

This is the first picture of the tank for the layout in Z scale.  It has been sitting outside in Ottawa, Canada, for almost 3 years.  I did not realise how much dirt can accumulate on an 8th floor balcony.

 

It sure needs al lot of cleaning before it can be used.  All track is ordered by Rokuhan.

 

gerryo

 

Edited July 12, 2016 by gerryo

[cteno4]

Gerry,

 

Have you figured out a way to drop in and lift out you scenery base into the tank? Something like a couple of stategically placed eye screws and some rods with hooks you can drop in there and snag the eye screws to lift it out. Don't try to rely on the fingers in there to do the lifting and dropping, always is trouble (made gobs of aquarium tank inserts while working at a public aquarium when young).

 

Or were you going to flip the tank over on top of the layout like a glass case that's removable?

 

Going to be a very unique display, especially with the eva in there!

 

Cheers,

 

Jeff

[gerryo]

I think I will still try to make a base of Styrofoam as most track comes with holes for pins, and also that it will still be light.

 

It will have to be put in in two pieces and the edge hidden with something before installation.

 

I will have to use the small version of the EVA because of the short sidings.

 

Gerry

Edited July 12, 2016 by gerryo

[cteno4]

It's getting the base in and out as you need to work on it that will be the challenge. Don't think you want to get into the ship in a bottle mentality with it!

 

For hiding the facing edge of the foam you can glue on colored paper, cardboard, or even some wood veneer (these can look very nice!)

 

Jeff

[railsquid]

Will there be Z-scale fish? ;)

[gerryo]

A Z scale fish, except for a whale, which isn't a fish by the way, would be microscopic.  Small trains will be bad enough.

 

Jeff, I like the wood veneer idea.  I'll use that.

 

Gerry

Edited July 12, 2016 by gerryo

[tossedman]

If you build it on a styrofoam base you could float it to the top of the tank by filling it with water. (He says with tongue firmly embedded in cheek).

 

Todd

[cteno4]

Ha that would be the way to get the base in and out, just raise and lower the water level!

 

Jeff

[gerryo]

Can I depend on power routing and do away with power feeds on the sidings?  It wouldn't mean much of a saving in money but it would save on 3 separate wirings from the control panel. 

 

I will be building the table just high enough to work on.  And will be making the base in one piece to suit the type of plan that I have regarding the landscaping.  I think I can get it in, in one piece. 

 

Gerry

[cteno4]

Gerry,

 

After you get the base foam section built and before you start scenery make sure you figure out how you will get it in and out easily as you will need to pull it out now and then. Once scenery is on it will be hard to fiddle with it to figure out getting it in and out.

 

The veneer is easy to cut (matte knife and straight edge). Contact cement on both surfaces works great to glue down but have to be careful aligning it. You can trim edges easily with a hobby knife once glued.

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

[kvp]

Yes, power routing works, just disable it in the mainline direction, so power could always go around the loops. (so power cut should be only enabled towards the sidings) It can be set with screws on the bottom of the turnouts.

[gerryo]

 

I have made some final adjustments to the layout plan.  One siding has been eliminated on the bottom left, and a slight skew from straight to allow a few mm from the glass.  This will be final.

 

Now to build a table low enough to work on it without too much strain.

 

Gerry

Edited July 15, 2016 by gerryo

[gerryo]

Well, they beat me to it this time.  I just received all the track and controls for this layout.  I have been procrastinating for a week, and HS got everything to me in six days.  Now that's service.

 

But something new happened.  I had to pay Canada sales tax on the whole thing.  Never had to before.  I guess my luck just ran out.

 

Gerry

[gerryo]

I spent most of today cleaning out the fish tank.  Even after 20 years of dealing with fish, I am always surprised just how dirty fish are.  Anyway, it's almost done so I can now start working on the base foam platform.

 

There is a wide plastic rim on the tank both top and bottom, so it will not be so hard to hide the foam behind this.  I think I will put the track together to make sure my plan will fit.

 

Gerry

[gerryo]

My plan fits just grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrreat.

 

Gerry

Edited July 20, 2016 by gerryo

[valkyriepm]

That's great to hear! Can't wait to see how it's coming along.

 

Martin

[gerryo]

It's coming.   Not as fast as I would like.  Life is getting in the way.  Next thing is a new car, and that's an expensive thought.

 

I had to extend the sidings .Mine were too short for the 500 EVA.

 

gerry

Edited July 21, 2016 by gerryo

[gerryo]

My latest trial was to try to get a curved turnout to work as a crossing between the two tracks.  That didn't work. 

 

Two straight turnouts will not fit between the tracks in the short straights that I have, so that won't work either.

 

Done some decorating with trees, and my Z scale castle, and this at least gives the impression of progress, and colours.  It seems that I will give up the idea of a moat around the castle.

 

I have searched all sites for short Z scale trains.  They seem to only come in 4 car basic sets, and my little layout just will not handle them.  The 3 car sets are very long, but I am going to try the Nagano T011-1 JR Type 115 to see if it can be used.  I can't find the length of these cars anywhere.  With the 500 EVA, this will be the MAXIMUM for this layout.

 

Gerry

[velotrain]

> My latest trial was to try to get a curved turnout to work as a crossing between the two tracks.

 

Is there a sharp turnout where the curved leg radius is close to that of your end curves? 

 

If yes, perhaps incorporate it into the exit of an inner end curve, with a more generous turnout on the outer track - the left side is the likely target.

[gerryo]

 

I got it !!!   By connecting two curved turnouts end to end - one on the inner track, and one on the outer track - with the correct short tracks and the Extendable track - IT WORKS.

 

Gerry

[kvp]

There is a single car kiha dmu in z that can be run in two car sets, but most emus are longer (the 113/115 series usually needs two cab cars and a two car motor married pair). Also, your eva shinkansen is only a dmu in its short form as the pantograph cars are in the extension. You can cheat a bit and run most available emus in a 3 car setup without most people noticing anything. Less than that is only possible with the motor in the end car.

 

Cape gauge car length is 20 meters, so in Zj that should be around 10-11 cm per car.

[gerryo]

The lengths, quoted by Anthony at zscalemonster, for the 500 is 5", 4 3/4", 5" for a total of 14 3/4".

 

The pics I have seen of the EVA show the pantograph on the middle car of the 3.

 

This total length is too long for any of my sidings but is touted to run on 195mm curves.  So at least it can make a showing.

 

Gerry

[kvp]

According to this, both pantograph cars are in the extension set.

 

Otherwise the lengths you wrote seems perfectly in scale.

[gerryo]

I've been trying to find where I saw the pantograph on the basic set, but it's just not anywhere.  Obviously, I was wrong.  But there is no point in my buying the extension set because it just will never be used.  That pic that you posted did not exist when I ordered my set.

 

Gerry

[gerryo]

This is the base foam and colour plate being pressed flat for the layout to be built on.  Of course trimming will be next, the starting to lay track.  Probably will need some small additional track pieces to make up for changes since I got the track bundle.

 

Then waiting for the buildings.  I thought there was no mail strike here, but things sure slowed down.

 

Gerry