Reliability of Kato locomotives

[Atomsk]

I just found an article at http://jbwid.com/art83b.htm

 

It explains some issues I've had since I started running trains on the Milford, Davenport, & Franklin.  My previous "layout", The Dining Room Carpet & Western, as the name suggests, consisted of Kato Unitrack assembled on deep-pile carpet.  The current layout sits on a tabletop, built of MDF, with the track screwed down to the table with 1.4x12mm wood screws. 

 

Almost immediately after I started running trains, I noticed that some locomotives seemed to either go dead, for no reason, or "stutter", with the lights and motor going on and off.  I didn't notice this on the DRC&W, but I did on the MD&F.

 

I tried almost the exact sequence of "fixes" as described in the article, track cleaning, wheel cleaning, contact cleaning, etc.  I didn't go to far as the adjust the wheel gauge, but I still got the same ambiguous results as the writer did, for what I tried.

 

Has anyone else found that Kato locomotives have this "balky" pickup, and has anyone found a workable solution to the issue?

 

I've seen other locomotives with similar inside bearings that use a small journal made of oilite bronze, in which the axle rotates, and the contact strip rests on the journal.  Why did Kato go with a design where the contact strip (of relatively soft copper) rests directly on the rotating axle?

[enoden]

I  have experienced similar problems from time to time.  Here's what worked for me.   Look on the internet for a product called "deoxit".  It's a very high quality contact cleaner that we use in the pipe organ service business to solve contact problems in the computer control systems.  It is expensive but it lasts a very long time.  It comes in various forms for different applications. Buy the one that comes in a little bottle with a brush applicator similar to women's nail polish.  Pop the shell off of the locomotive or emu car.  Use the brush to apply the deoxit to the copper strip.  Push it into the spot where the pickups from the motors make contact with the strip.  The deoxit will restore good electrical conductivity.  Replace the locomotive shell and your done. 

 

 

[kvp]

Btw the linked article fails to mention that those bogie pickups were sprung side wipers (and not top ones) that were bent back to straight by tightening the wheel distance or probably previously by applying a sideways force on the wheels.

 

So imho checking the proper assembly on the instruction sheet often helps both to make something work and to avoid damaging it.

[katoftw]

I've seen other locomotives with similar inside bearings that use a small journal made of oilite bronze, in which the axle rotates, and the contact strip rests on the journal.  Why did Kato go with a design where the contact strip (of relatively soft copper) rests directly on the rotating axle?

Because it is an old design.  When said loco is X+10 amount of years old.  A loco that is only X years old may have a newer and better design.

[Atomsk]

Thanks, I'll take apart the trucks on my worst performer, and see of I can adjust the wipers to contact the insides of the wheels better.  It's a DF50, probably similar vintage to the DD54 shown in the article.

[cteno4]

Atomsk,

 

Looks for blobs of puzz/grease that may have been sucked up from they carpet running as well.

 

Never Stall comes highly recommended on a few different lists I'm on. I got a tube like 6month back but have not gotten around to doing a big maintenance run to try it out!

 

http://www.daylightsales.com/product_info.php/products_id/1472/osCsid/o63582dltul7384im814k7q0p1

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

[Atomsk]

Because it is an old design.  When said loco is X+10 amount of years old.  A loco that is only X years old may have a newer and better design.

Actually, the DD54 is only 5 years old.  They used the inside bearing design, because that's what the prototype used.  The couldn't use pointed axles ans end bearing cups, because there was no room.  Interestingly, the RL DD54 was considered a failed design too.

 

My DF50 used the conventional outside bearings, but the cups had become clogged with goo.  Cleaning them out, and lubing them, plus bending the copper strip to press the cup more firmly onto the axle point.  That seems to have turned this dud loco into a reliable performer.