NXCALE Posted June 30, 2016 Author Share Posted June 30, 2016 (edited) . Edited January 29, 2017 by nxcale Link to comment
NXCALE Posted July 1, 2016 Author Share Posted July 1, 2016 (edited) . Edited January 29, 2017 by nxcale 1 Link to comment
kvp Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 Looks nice, but personally i would add some paint around the back of the leds to mask off the light leaks. Link to comment
cteno4 Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 Nice work! The thick tee shirt paint works well to mask light leaks. I think they even have it in silver! Jeff Link to comment
JR 500系 Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016 It looks nice, thanks for sharing! Only thing is I would like it better if the lights were able to tilt a little downwards to let it shine downwards to the yards, since it is a yard light anyway... Link to comment
NXCALE Posted July 2, 2016 Author Share Posted July 2, 2016 (edited) . Edited January 23, 2017 by nxcale 3 Link to comment
kvp Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016 For masking, you could just get felt tip pens with lacquer paint or anything acrylic. The latter is good for electrical isolation too. It's a good idea to look for bus wire with a magnet! Link to comment
JR 500系 Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 That's a great experiment! Nice and good to see it works! I tried experimenting too, but my wire was the generic type which construction uses to tie re-bars together, hence they might be too thick. The result I got was the magnet stuck too much and the bus has its tyres running stationary... Your wire is a lot better! Link to comment
NXCALE Posted July 4, 2016 Author Share Posted July 4, 2016 (edited) . Edited January 29, 2017 by nxcale 1 Link to comment
NXCALE Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 (edited) . Edited January 29, 2017 by nxcale Link to comment
NXCALE Posted July 14, 2016 Author Share Posted July 14, 2016 (edited) . Edited January 29, 2017 by nxcale Link to comment
NXCALE Posted July 16, 2016 Author Share Posted July 16, 2016 (edited) . Edited January 29, 2017 by nxcale Link to comment
kvp Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 Maybe you could try self adhesive magnet foil tape. It's easier to bend it and tend to be fairly weak. Link to comment
inobu Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 Hi people, I ordered some LEDs less than two weeks ago and these just arrived! I thought it would take to get them like four weeks... Mini LEDs for the Signals repeaters and the level crossing 02.jpg 20 mini LEDs... 01.jpg These are very tiny, it is gonna be the first time I use such small LEDs. Cheers, Nxcale p.s. tempted to order more... Where did you get them from? Inobu Link to comment
NXCALE Posted July 17, 2016 Author Share Posted July 17, 2016 (edited) . Edited January 29, 2017 by nxcale Link to comment
kvp Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Just one small idea for the signals: if you wire each lead individually, you'll need 14 wires (7 pairs). If you chain them in a star shape, then you would only need 6 (3 power and 3 ground) around the edge. Activating one pair would light up 3 leds in a row. ps: i've checked some fridge magnets with maget foil and only a single 3mm thick one worked and only on direct contact, not through the roadplate Link to comment
NXCALE Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 (edited) . Edited January 29, 2017 by nxcale Link to comment
NXCALE Posted August 1, 2016 Author Share Posted August 1, 2016 (edited) . Edited January 29, 2017 by nxcale 1 Link to comment
JR 500系 Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 This is looking interesting! Can't wait for the finished product! Thanks for sharing! Link to comment
NXCALE Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 (edited) . Edited January 29, 2017 by nxcale Link to comment
kvp Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 The stop magnet location is a bit to the side as in case of the bus stops. This means, that normally, the magnet should be far enough from the wire while the steering mech is passing it and still mostly under the bus. Using the same magnet as Tomix is using and placing it next to the wire the same way as in the bus stop will make sure that the bus stops exactly at the middle of the turntable. 1 Link to comment
inobu Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 (edited) Nx, You have a good project going, I think you should create a design document to keep you from running around in circles. You should map out everything that you want the bus to do and list each action in sequential order as it will happen. Then create the list for the corresponding controls. This will identify what you can reuse or will need to re-engineer. For example the automatic Bus stop has a delay of 7 to 10 seconds. The question is do you want the bus to rotate an go or stop and wait. If it is rotate and go then the motor has to spin the turntable in less than 7 seconds. If you want the bus to stop and rotate and wait then you need to address that control (which you would have identified in the design docs). The problem is you could design into a dead end and will end up starting all over again. I would put thing on a white board and use it for the initial draft/design some times I just left it on the board. In any case I think you have a good one going and would like to see it run. Inobu If I were you I would but a magnetic on and off switch on the bus. That way you can control it. As far as the magnet control is you just have to shim the magnet to what works. Measure the magnet size and shim height and you will be able to dial it in easier. Edited 8/5/2016 I made the mistake of ordering before creating design/project document (or some form of notes for research). Did it again! First step is to see what the current technology is. Well I didn't do that. I ordered the bus set before going over everything and found there has been some new development since the first release. There are a number of units out there. 232124 32mm wheel base bus LR44 Pill battery Non rechargeable 1/150 Scale 244028 35mm wheel base bus LR44 Pill battery Non rechargeable 1/150 Scale 264582 29-38mm Adjustable Wheel base Rechargeable battery with USB charging cable. 1/160 scale US version bus shell. Once again proof for me to create a doc to prevent you from running around in circles. Inobu Reference Post by rich.k Edited August 5, 2016 by inobu Link to comment
kvp Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 The stop system on the buses support both auto resume and indefinite stop. Both use the same sliding stop magnet mechanism. Copying this into the turntable mech is imho possible and doesn't really need a whole lot of plans. Generally if new components follow the same system that the off the shelf modular pieces use, then they could be added and used as easy as the official parts. Link to comment
inobu Posted August 4, 2016 Share Posted August 4, 2016 (edited) Design docs allow you to see into the future. Mapping out this project revealed that the first priority would be remote start and stop. Addressing this issue would address the turntable problem but open the doors for Signal light start and stop. This means that a red light could initiate a stop command on one intersection and a go for the other. The complexity of this project could benefit from one. Inobu Edited August 4, 2016 by inobu Link to comment
kvp Posted August 4, 2016 Share Posted August 4, 2016 (ps: the plan is on the 1st page of this topic, including the bus system and it seems fairly accurate) Link to comment
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