kvp Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 This'll work too. You just need one extra selector switch to choose from the two controllers for the short section. (2 input, 1 output switch) Link to comment
katoftw Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 So I got the second piece of foam panel I needed. Cut it all up and and took a step back and relized something was wrong. The original panel as 30mm thick as it should be. And the second panel is 28mm. So might try to find the panels again and measure them before I swap another for money. It is only 2mm difference. but be nice if everything matched up without issues. The adjusters would fix the small difference. But the correct width panel would also. The excess would have been used in later projects anyway. I'm still waiting on all the electricals to arrive, so this small issue isn't slowing anything down. Link to comment
cteno4 Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 ugh, i should have said something ive seen like a mm or even 2 variance on the thickness of that thickness panel before. on our 1.0 club layout i made 1x3 wooden frames for our 2'x4' modules and proceeded to put in cross pieces and blocks in all of them inset perfectly for the 1" foam. then popped in the foam pieces and about a third of them were either sunk in too far or raised up like 1mm! oh well, i shimmed up the shy ones and took a 2x4 and hammered in the ones sticking up! I guess for the insulation purposes in where its used that 5% or so variance is fine. worse yet i cut a bunch of ttrak boxes for club members one year out of the cheap birch big box 3/16" ply and it turned out to have a 3/64" variance on thickness. at first i was baffled why some kits were not fitting together perfectly when i had jigs all set to cut all the pieces on the table saw exactly and they were all perfect when lined up on the table. took a few minutes and the caliper to realize the wood was not uniformly thick... worse was 6 months later a few of them started to delaminate as well. crappy ply wood... next batch i got the cabinetry grade. made the wood costs per module go from a dollar to a little less than two dollars, but worth it. jeff Link to comment
katoftw Posted January 15, 2016 Author Share Posted January 15, 2016 (edited) Went and purchased two panels of foam. Was gonna take the measuring tape and make sure I get the correct depth i required. Stupidly forgot it, so just got 2 panels from the same batch, so they match. I'm sure I'll use the excess foam sometime in the future. Now just waiting on the bridge and wiring stuff. And the basics with scenery will be done. Edited January 15, 2016 by katoftw Link to comment
katoftw Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 Foam panels are down. Sides sanded to neaten up the foam and the dodgy woodwork. Brought some trees off ebay. Still waiting on the bridge and wiring stuff to arrive. Link to comment
katoftw Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 The start of the electric turned up n the post today. Hopefully the other bits and pieces turn up soon. And track can be glued down. Link to comment
katoftw Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 (edited) So not all the electrics have turned up, but enough to get started. This morning I glued down the foam panels and stared at them for a while. The glue wasn't gonna dry and harden any faster. So decided to work on the electrics. Grabbed some unused S60Ls and S60Rs. Good source of free unijoiners. Don't go buying a bag of them. Some have cut outs, don't use these. Pulled the unijoiners off. Use small screwdriver to bend one end tab, then push out from underneth. Remember to push tab back to position before reassembly. Removed the rail joiner. Solder the wire to the rail joiner. Remember to put the wire through the unijoiner first, otherwiese much profanity will occur. Done. All up this wiring for the pull layout will owe me $3.50. If I have used Kato's wiring options like 3 way dividers and wired unijoiners. It would have cost apporx $18 + shipping costs. The 12 row connector from the previous post it what I will use as my divider. Edited January 23, 2016 by katoftw 1 Link to comment
katoftw Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 (edited) I hit a decent speed bump. The WS186T double plate grider bridge isn't to my liking. a) It is more blue than it is grey. B) Due to it's position being 40mm from the front of the module. It blacks a lot of sight being 80mm wide and solid with ballasted track. So will get single plate girder bridge a lot more gray in the photos and used no ballast, so the bidge is semi see thorught. Will have to buy two of these. Surprizingly Plaza Japan has the best priced ones. I can keep working on the other module without the canal. Just slows up the planning process for the roads and scenery. I will catch up. LIKE:- NOT LIKE:- Edited January 26, 2016 by katoftw Link to comment
katoftw Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 Basics done. It is in running form. Bridge will be swapped out sometime. So track isn't glued down yet. The module without the bridge could be glued down anytime. I haven't decided on the canal route/direction yet. So the foam panel for that module isn't glued down as of yet. The canal will funnel down narrower. Just unsure until scenery start going down which avenue I will take with it. 1 Link to comment
Das Steinkopf Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 With the double track girder bridge if you can remove the track easily you could convert it into a roadbridge, as you will probably need one of those as well. Link to comment
katoftw Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 Hmmm? That is a good idea. The middle metal section and the rails and ballast all pull out. It is on ebay. But if it doesn't sell, that'll be a good plan B. Link to comment
Martijn Meerts Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 The car in the last picture is slightly out of scale isn't it? ;) Link to comment
katoftw Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 (edited) Correct. It also has a Ford badge on it. So it isn't prototypical for the Shiga area. So I wont be using it. Edited January 26, 2016 by katoftw Link to comment
katoftw Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 New bridges turned up today. Much better me thinkz. Grey and a lot smaller in dimensions. Link to comment
Das Steinkopf Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 New bridges turned up today. Much better me thinkz. Grey and a lot smaller in dimensions. P2080281.JPGP2080282.JPG They look much more suited for what you want to do, especially when you look at a real life example from that line. Link to comment
katoftw Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 (edited) Yup. The bridge and canal near Miidera station was what I was originally aiming for. Just needs to be hit hard with a track painting pen to really rust it up. Edited February 8, 2016 by katoftw Link to comment
Krackel Hopper Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 (edited) New bridges turned up today. Much better me thinkz. Grey and a lot smaller in dimensions. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the single track plate girder bridges will not fit side-by-side at the 33mm track spacing. Not without kitbashing them together by cutting off one of the walls or cutting down both walls and gluing.. like in this link: http://ttrak.wikidot.com/double-tracking-a-plate-girder-bridge Edited February 8, 2016 by Krackel Hopper Link to comment
katoftw Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 Oh good new. Not! haha I just gave them a measure up. Yes next to each other they have a 37mm track spacing. Luckily I'm using wooden single track pieces. So should be able to compensate for the extra 4mm. Thanks for the heads up. Better to find out now than later on. Link to comment
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