Beginner 2 Module Otsu Layout

[katoftw]

Just thought I'd share something I will be working on in the coming months.  I am building a 1800 x 600mm layout depicting the Keihan Sakamoto-Ishiyama Line.  It will be done on the cheap, and I'll explain in depth a little later.

 

The point of this is to make a small simple layout I can run my multitude of Keihan trains on.  But something small enough for a beginner to allow myself to trial and error the process of layout building.

 

The track plan will be a simple 2 track roundy-roundy.  The layout will consist of two 900 x 600mm modules.  This will fit on a regular 1830 x 760mm blow mold fold out table I already own.  One module yellow, one module white.  Allows expansion if I ever do so.  Curves are R216s and R249s.  I picked those curves to allow the running of other trains on the outside loop also.  Most Tomix/Kato/MicroAce will be fine on the outer loop.

 

 

Now I mentioned earlier about doing this on the cheap.  I have heaps of 900 x 600 x 6mm sheets of MDF hanging about from a previous failed project.  Also these size sheets were a deciding factor in the design of the layout.  Yes MDF isn't the greatest option available.  But if it here and it is free.

 

The track will be Kato unitrack wood tie pieces.  Again I have heaps laying around and the only pieces I have actually brought for this layout are the 8x R216-45 curves and the 4x S78S varible straights.  Although I will probably buy some kind of S124 deck or girder bridge for a canal scene.

 

From my local hardware shop I can get some 1200 x 600 x 30mm foam insulation board for $12.00 each, I will need two of these.  So I'll have 600 x 600mm spare if I wanna build up the layout anywhere.  30mm height should be fine as the only water scene in the layout will be a concrete canal.

 

Each module will be broken up into 2 scenes, roughly 900 x 300mm.  So there will be 4 scenes all together.  There will be no backing boards, but the scene should flow together anyway.  As per the track plan, there is a small holding yard, that will be a yard scene.

 

Another scene will be a urban station and street running scene, (similar to North of Hamaotsu Station).  I haven't decided on the other two scenes.  But probably a rural farm scene, (similar to the northern end of the line), and not really sure for the fourth scene.  But it will come to me by the time I've completed the other scenes.

 

Pretty basic idea.  Simple for a beginner that is learning like myself.  I'm hoping to have it at a point where trains can run by new years.  Scenery to come later.

 

p.s.  Will take some pictures of the track placed on the 900 x 600mm MDF sheets in the next few days to give you a better understanding.

Edited December 20, 2015 by katoftw

[ozman2009]

A good way to start. No crossover between the two running tracks?

[Bernard]

I agree a very good way to start, go simple and refine your skills if you decide to make a larger layout.....I learned a lot from previous layouts and tried not to make the same mistakes on my current layout (I still made mistakes though)

Scenery has never been my favorite but I experimented with different techniques and I found the ones liked best. I look forward to photos as it develops.

Best Bernard

[cteno4]

Yes getting in too deep, too big, too fast is one of the biggest killers in the hobby! Good starting point and if you paint yourself into a corner it's not very painful to backup and redo! Will be fun to watch it come together!

 

Jeff

[katoftw]

A good way to start. No crossover between the two running tracks?

Well actually yes.  I do have a double crossover that I totally forgot about.

 

I think I'm gonna use the grey 186mm Truss bridges for the bridge/canal scene.

 

[nah00]

 

 

From my local hardware shop I can get some 1200 x 600 x 30mm foam insulation board for $12.00 each, I will need two of these.  So I'll have 600 x 600mm spare if I wanna build up the layout anywhere.  30mm height should be fine as the only water scene in the layout will be a concrete canal.

 

 

You can even get this on the cheap too by getting damaged pieces. I have a fellow model railroader that works at a hardware store by my house and he saves the broken pieces of foam for me. Got them for half-off and the damage didn't matter much.

[katoftw]

Complete fail today.  I don't think I mentioned it in the first post.  But I was gonna build the modules in T-Track module style.  Just a larger version of it with bracing underneth.  Well today I tried cutting the fronts and sides and every second piece was out of spec.  Luckily enough most pieces where 1mm or so oversized, so I can just plane them down to the correct size.  I just wasn't feeling it today and pack it in after a hour.  I best hurry up as I have only 3 days to complete by my deadline.

[katoftw]

The MDF is going in the bin. Had enough of trying to cut smaal panels in square straight lines.  Purchases two 897x600x12mm BC plywood panels and six 89x19mmx1.8m FSC dressed pine.  $85 in total.  Now as simple as cut, cut, cut, assemble, glue, wait... Done.

[katoftw]

 

Not glued or screwed together.  But you get the idea.  Had to make some small adjustments.  Turns out the 900x59712x12mm ply was really 897x597x12mm.

 

Centre line of track is 49.5mm from the edges.

 

Table is 1830x760mm.  So the is a spare 1800x160mm space along one long edge for controllers and coffee cups etc.

 

One question for those in the know.  In the second picture, you see the frame setup.  The centre beam is 270mm from the outer 2 beams.  Will that be enough support?  Or should I add some more perpendicular beams?

Edited December 29, 2015 by katoftw

[katoftw]

The hardware store those morning had run out of 1200x600x30mm foam.  So will collect some at a later date.

[tossedman]

 

One question for those in the know.  In the second picture, you see the frame setup.  The centre beam is 270mm from the outer 2 beams.  Will that be enough support?  Or should I add some more perpendicular beams?

You ought to be solid there mate. That 12mm plywood is plenty rigid. My modules span 300mm using 6mm plywood and they're fine.

 

Cheers eh,

 

Todd

[katoftw]

So it is the small details that always get you.  I was about to glue and screw it all together.  But using 6mm MDF being attched to 30x30mm pine.  I had 28mm long screws ready to go.  Making the change to 19mm thickness pine for the frame.  Those 28mm screws aren't long enough.  Out to the hardware store to get 40mm long screws.  Will get this done sometime I guess. haha

[yakumo381]

Whilst you are still at the carpentry stage, don't forget to drill some large holes through the cross bracing for wiring runs. You always need more than you originally think (as I found out too late with my Niihama layout) so make sure you put in some spares...

[katoftw]

Thanks.  I had thought about it previously.  And probably would have forgotten while in the process of building one's first module.

 

Speaking of one's first module. Glued and screwed:-

 

 

I'm on my way.

Edited December 29, 2015 by katoftw

[katoftw]

Got excited, kept going.  2 modules completed, 2 hours.  Wish I switched to larger ply and pine 2 years ago.  Would have got me going sooner compared to failed wonky panels for T-Trak.

 

 

Also got some of these from failed T-Trak modules.  Go for up to 10mm height adjustment.  Using some 30x30mm pine in the module corners.  Will allow for any differences in module and table/floor/base imperfections.

 

 

Time to get some foam and can start laying the track down.  Yay!

Edited December 29, 2015 by katoftw

[cteno4]

MDF is tricky to work with. you really need to use a good solid table saw to get clean and precise cuts, its less forgiving than ply and dimensional lumber in assembly as well.

 

looking really nice. levelers are great. use those little felt pads on the bolt heads, wont mar the surface (we had this happen with a small ttrak setup on someone's dining room table, but the person setting it up did ask first and was told not to bother, so not really his fault!) and take up a tiny bit of wiggle.

 

jeff

[kvp]

This is what i call fast progress!

 

Btw be careful with the placement of the crossover as it also isolates the inside rails. It might come handy though as you can create an isolated section between the yard turnout and the crossover, allowing the storage of the inside running set while you swap out the outside running one. (assuming the power feeds are outside this section) Just isolate the section by throwing the yard throat and run the outside set from the crossover through the other oval half.

[katoftw]

I don't understand what you mean kvp?

 

I'm just running 2 throttles for 2 lines.  And the crossover will be isolating the 2 lines.

[kvp]

Just connect the feed wires between the crossover and the points side of the yard turnout. Now if you throw the yard turnout towards the yard, the section between this turnout's trailing side and the crossover will be isolated. If you park the inner loop train on this section, you could move the outer loop train to and from the yard (by turning both controllers) without moving the inner loop train.

 

Essentially you'll have 3 isolatable sections (2 yard tracks, 1 inner loop section). This makes swapping trains on the outer loop easy and allows up to 3 trains to be on the layout. The nice thing is that you don't need any extra parts for it, just the 2 turnouts and the crossover.

[katoftw]

Okay got one of the 1200x600x30mm insulation panel.  Seems everywhere has run out over the holiday break.  Will get a second panel later on.

 

Best way to cut exturded polystyrene?  It looks like they used a blunt butter knife to cut it into its current measurements.

 

Was hoping to have track down and trains running but today.  I'm at the point of gluing the foam and the track down.

Edited December 31, 2015 by katoftw

[katoftw]

You cut it with a knife in small cuts, going deeper and deeper each slice.  Then hit it with a oscillating sander with fine grit paper.

 

 

Upper before and lower after sanding...

 

 

 

[katoftw]

It is alive!

 

[cteno4]

Looking good!

 

Isn't it fun when you start sanding the foam! You will find bits of it clinging to you weeks later!

 

Jeff

[katoftw]

Ebayed 10m 22AWG twin wire, 6x M+F mini Tamiya connectors and a longish distribution strip to cut up.  Cost $13, which is about the same if I did it with Kato wiring accessories.  But I'll have most of the connecters and about 7m spare still.

 

You really need to double up on the wiring as the variable track piece really kills the power.  Trains on the opposite side to the feeders drop at least 20-30% speed.  Thought I'd buy some wiring now and save in the future for other projects.

Edited January 1, 2016 by katoftw

[katoftw]

This is what i call fast progress!

 

Btw be careful with the placement of the crossover as it also isolates the inside rails. It might come handy though as you can create an isolated section between the yard turnout and the crossover, allowing the storage of the inside running set while you swap out the outside running one. (assuming the power feeds are outside this section) Just isolate the section by throwing the yard throat and run the outside set from the crossover through the other oval half.

I'm going for a slight variance on this.  The feeder will be placed at the middle points of both curves.  So feeding 1m of track in each direction.  But I will place another feeder on the inner track on the left side of the points/yard, and a isolator near the yard to create a dead section on the inner track.  This will allow trains to cross from the other to the inner track while a train is isolated on the inner track.  Pic below:-

 

Edited January 1, 2016 by katoftw