marknewton Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 I've noticed that as dry transfer sheets age they can break up while being applied, or even not adhere to the model at all, instead remaining stuck to the carrier sheet. Does anyone have any hints or suggestions to get around this? Cheers, Mark. Link to comment
inobu Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Its just a guess but the culprit may be lack of humidity. You may need to provide moister to prevent the sheet from drying out. Possible solution is vacuum seal and dark storage. Inobu 1 Link to comment
katoftw Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 (edited) there is solutions to buy that allow you to apply the transfers. i remember looking into it when i was finding info of the transfers. one softens and one hardens. soften to remove and apply. and harden to stay put. Edited December 5, 2015 by katoftw Link to comment
Eurostar25 Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Maybe the use of MicroSol and MicroSet, they're a blue and red bottle of solution that as Katoftw says softens and then hardens the decal. I used them a lot for water slide transfers for my NZ models but can't say I've used it for the rub on variety stickers that come with Tomix and Kato models. 1 Link to comment
cteno4 Posted December 6, 2015 Share Posted December 6, 2015 Might experiment with the softeners, but transfers are basically only the ink and a layer of adhesive and the softeners work on the wet decal membrane, not the ink. The ink layer in a wet decal is very flexible and the backing membrane stiffer and softener basically lets the membrane soften so that it will suck down and around details. The wax or adhesive layer can dry out with time. Also they can pick up dust and smutz with time so important to keep them well sealed and their facing piece in place so they don't get dusted and loose their stickiness. Long ago I used a lot of letraset dry transfer lettering and they would poop out at some point. I also use to always use cotton gloves (archival thin cotton gloves) to keep finger oil and smutz off the lettering sheets and kept the work surface and graphic very clean! Might try just a little heat with the heat gun before applying. Best of luck! Cheers, Jeff 1 Link to comment
marknewton Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 Thanks for the suggestion folks. I've found two things that helped. One was to lightly steam the sheet over the kettle as it comes to the boil, and the other was to heat gently with my wife's hair dryer. Both methods worked well. Jeff's advice about keeping everything clean and using gives is very good advice, too! :) Cheers, Mark. 2 Link to comment
Ochanomizu Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 Hello Mr Mark, Are you steaming the side to be applied or the reverse side? Are you relying on the heat, moisture, or both? Link to comment
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