Removing models from their boxes

[okiemax]

I would welcome useful suggestions on how to remove delicate models (such as steam locomotives) from their boxes and put them back in their boxes without damaging the models. I apologize if this topic has been covered previously in the forum, but I found nothing about it in my search. 

[cteno4]

Hey max, welcome!

 

For the steam engines and other engines I usually just put my had over the box and invert it and pull the box off. Then just tip it up on its wheels and grab it.

 

Trying to drag it out usually is tough. They usually go back in a lot easier just plunking them back into the insert.

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

[okiemax]

Thanks, Jeff. I do the same as you do, but the instructions on a recent Kato D-51purchase seem to suggest something different. I am referring to an illustration in the instructions, which I may be misinterpreting. Anyway, I haven't hurt the model and I'm vey pleased with its looks and performance.

 

Max 

[kvp]

For a very delicate N scale Kato locomotive i usually take out the foam insert with the locomotive and the mounting frame, take off the back foam, take out the mounting frame with the locomotive, place the assembly next to the track, remove the tender and the locomotive from the frame (pull them slightly upwards to unlock them) and move them to the track. For storing, reverse this process. The reason for this is separate plastic railings everywhere, separate plastic pipes on the boiler and mostly plastic rods and other small moving parts. There are only 2 surface pairs on the whole locomotive that can be touched without crushing a detail part, one on the locomotive and one on the tender and the two are permanently coupled (wired) together, so you can't lift them separately. At least thanks to the mounting frame, the locomotive is standing very stable in the box without actually touching it anywhere.

 

For the more rugged (full metal) Z scale Maerklin locmomotives, i just open the box and do what Jeff does and pour them into my hand, but they can be held almost anywhere without breaking off or crushing any detail parts. The downside is the oversized pressed sheet metal rods that look very unprototypical, unlike the much finer Kato mechanism.

[Welshbloke]

I usually open the box, put my hand against the front, then flip it over so the loco ends up lying on my hand when I lift the box away.

[Kamome]

Thanks, Jeff. I do the same as you do, but the instructions on a recent Kato D-51purchase seem to suggest something different. I am referring to an illustration in the instructions, which I may be misinterpreting. Anyway, I haven't hurt the model and I'm vey pleased with its looks and performance.

 

Max

 

Some of the newer versions of the Kato D51 such as the re-released D51 498 and the D51-1 slug have a card tab on the right that you pull up which brings the surrounding foam out of the clear case. The foam loosens around the model once it's free of the clear case.

 

The older Kato SL case design with a plastic securing brace which fit under the wheels are a bit of a pig. I stand the clear case up on its end so I can slide the loco in upright. I find a grimacing facial expression helps.

[cteno4]

I'm still trying to track down that ultra supple plastic film that tomix and micro ace have used on some models to go between the model and the foam inset. It's great to just pull up and out by the film as it acts as a lifting harness. One issue could be a fragile detail that reall sticks out could get too much stress via the film, but I guess you could cut some holes in it to make a custom harness that only pulled on points that can take it!

 

Hopefully in the next couple of weeks I can get over to our big plastics supplier (45 min+ drive) to see if they know what the heck the stuff is. So far it's not stuck to paint or models in the 8+ years some have had it in them. Also super nice to make things slide well and not bind up in the tighter foam insert ma does a lot!

 

Jeff

[kvp]

Just guessing here, but could it be low density polyethylene film without any additives?

[okiemax]

I want to thank everyone for replying to my request. 

 

Kamome said "Some of the newer versions of the Kato D51 such as the re-released D51 498 and the D51-1 slug have a card tab on the right that you pull up which brings the surrounding foam out of the clear case. The foam loosens around the model once it's free of the clear case."

 

Yes, the D51-1 box has a card tab on the right. Now I know its purpose. Thank you. 

[E6系]

Hello,

 

Step 1, of course, is wash hands.  White cotton gloves are also a good idea.

 

For EMUs in cases it is best to use index finger at the end of the car, push towards the other end and lift out the end you are pushing from.  This ensures that hoods (some call bellows) don't get damaged by the foam insert.  Also, I prefer to hold the car by the subfloor area to avoid damage and scratch to the body, windows, and transfers.

[Guest Closed Account 1]

I'm still trying to track down that ultra supple plastic film that tomix and micro ace have used on some models to go between the model and the foam inset. 

 

Mylar film?  Cheap and easy.

[cteno4]

No it's not Mylar, this is super supple. Mylar does not bend easily so not great around the more delicate bits.

 

Jeff