Faulty MicroAce 4010 E231 Sobu line Headlight

[JR 500系]

Hi all!

 

Need some help here, my friend's MicroAce A4010 E231 Sobu line has a faulty headlight bulb, and I couldn't find the parts list or the part number to order this for replacement. Does anyone have any ideas? Thank you!

 

[katoftw]

Replace bulb.  Or attempt to find similar looking light board from Tomix range.

Edited August 16, 2015 by katoftw

[Welshbloke]

Time for an LED upgrade?

 

You'll need a resistor for each LED unless you can find some which can handle a 12v input, but they'll run cooler and last longer. There should be enough space to squeeze them in.

 

Cree LEDs not recommended for this use, unless you really want your train to project its destination board on the opposite wall!

[JR 500系]

Thanks guys for the info! I guess my friend needs to go into making some LEDs himself then ~

[Welshbloke]

They shouldn't be hard to install. The only important part is installing them the right way around, so they light up when travelling in the right direction.

 

Get some fine pliers, a decent soldering iron, and one of those clamp stands to hold the PCB while you desolder the old bulbs and fit the LEDs. Desoldering braid might also be useful if the bulbs are soldered through the PCB, as the holes can be difficult to unblock.

[JR 500系]

Thanks!

 

Is it hard to do this? I mean, is there an LED kit available, or do we just shoulder off the larger bulbs and shoulder back in the LED lights?

[Ochanomizu]

Hello Mr JR500,

 

Please allow me to provide some basic assistance with your question.

 

I presume you have tested the circuit with a 9v battery and confirmed that the lamp is faulty.  That being the case, the cheapest and quickest repair is to cut off the faulty lamp and solder on a new one.

 

If you want to convert to LED the process is much more complicated.  This is because LED only allows current to flow in one direction.  The basic steps to follow to convert to LED are:

 

1. Remove both lamps;

 

2. Separate the circuit into two, each powering one LED.  This means grinding away part of the circuit board and adding two new wires;

 

3. Add components to each circuit: LED + Resistor + Diode.  The diode protects the LED from reverse current.  Of course, the LED will not illuminate in reverse current, but LED cannot handle reverse current for long periods of time.  I recommend Schottky 25v diode or similar.  Resistor I recommend 330 Ohm or 470 Ohm.  I think 1/4W is fine but 1/2W is safer.

[HantuBlauLOL]

I think those were too hard for someone who never use a Solder yet..

 

I recommend your friend to buy a very similar 12V bulb, then replace the old one with it.

[mrp]

FYI, those miniature 12V bulbs are often called “grain of rice” or “grain of wheat” bulbs.

 

Here’s something similar on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170949298845

 

(I’ve not used this bulb or this supplier myself.)

[JR 500系]

Thanks guys for the help!

 

 

I think those were too hard for someone who never use a Solder yet..

I recommend your friend to buy a very similar 12V bulb, then replace the old one with it.

 

Yap I for one sucks at shouldering... But my friend can do it so I think he should be able to fix this.

 

 

 

FYI, those miniature 12V bulbs are often called “grain of rice” or “grain of wheat” bulbs.

 

Here’s something similar on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170949298845

 

(I’ve not used this bulb or this supplier myself.)

 

 

Thank you! My friend has decided to turn the bulbs into LED instead, with some assistance from an experienced shoulder-er and electronics. I do await to see your progress on this as it may be a very good breakthrough to change all the older models bulbs to LEDs instead ~~ :)

[kvp]

If the two bulbs were wired to light up depending on the direction, then the two diodes are alredy installed and the light board should not be modified. All that is needed is to replace each bulb with a led+resistor pair, wired in series. Here is a good resistor calculator as the color of the leds also matter: http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

 

If your friend decides to replace the whole light board with a red/white or white/white led pair, then just wire them back to back in parallel with a single series resistor on one side and no additional components are needed. (one led will always light up, protecting the other from reverse voltage and a single common resistor is enough as only one led will be active at a time, depending on the polarity/direction)

[JR 500系]

Thanks kvp san, will relate that to my friend ~  :)

 

I need another help.

 

Not wanting to open another thread just for this hence posting this here:

 

As posted on the 'what did you order...' thread a MicroAce A7290 Toei10-300 Shinjuku Line 8-car set was delivered to me today, but it was missing the head and tail light assembly. I mean, the ENTIRE assembly... The front is EMPTY right now on both end cars... Very sad...

 

Also, the front coupler is missing, but I think that can be easily fixed with some Tomix dummy couplers or so as long as they are grey...

 

Is there a way I might know what the part number for the ENTIRE light assembly for this train might be? I wish to look at ordering them in...  

 

Thank you very much in advance!

 

*If only it was as easy as Kato: http://www.katomodels.com/product/assy/pdf/10-1107_10-1108_[287kei_kounotori].pdf

Kato seems to have most of its model's assembly sheet on its website, to easily identify and order spare parts...

Edited August 21, 2015 by JR 500系

[HantuBlauLOL]

I usually use 560 ohm resistor + LED in series combo for my trains.

 

So.. That set comes without lighting?

[katoftw]

Thanks kvp san, will relate that to my friend ~  :)

 

I need another help.

 

Not wanting to open another thread just for this hence posting this here:

 

As posted on the 'what did you order...' thread a MicroAce A7290 Toei10-300 Shinjuku Line 8-car set was delivered to me today, but it was missing the head and tail light assembly. I mean, the ENTIRE assembly... The front is EMPTY right now on both end cars... Very sad...

 

Also, the front coupler is missing, but I think that can be easily fixed with some Tomix dummy couplers or so as long as they are grey...

 

Is there a way I might know what the part number for the ENTIRE light assembly for this train might be? I wish to look at ordering them in...  

 

Thank you very much in advance!

 

*If only it was as easy as Kato: http://www.katomodels.com/product/assy/pdf/10-1107_10-1108_[287kei_kounotori].pdf

Kato seems to have most of its model's assembly sheet on its website, to easily identify and order spare parts...

I guess when you roll the dice and gamble on models that come out the back door of the factory.  This can happen.  You win some, you lose some.

 

MicroAce do not do spare parts.  Any fixes require the trains to be sent to them.

[Welshbloke]

One thing to check (after buying a Kato 117 Series with the same fault today, and repairing it):

 

Make sure it is actually the bulb, and not the diode!

 

In my case the bulb was fine when I clipped a pair of test leads directly to the PCB terminals, but wouldn't light up from the track. As the tail lights worked perfectly it was an obvious diagnosis and a fairly simple repair. I simply melted the solder, pulled the old diode out, and fitted a replacement (making sure it was facing the same way as the original). All lights now work.

[cteno4]

Now there is a troubleshooter! Kudos!

 

Jeff

[E6系]

Hello Mr JR500,

 

Where did you get A7290 from?

[Welshbloke]

Now there is a troubleshooter! Kudos!

 

Jeff

I'm just glad they use normal components, rather than surface mount or even worse the mysterious blob of potting compound with something underneath!

 

Didn't bother swapping to LEDs as I already had a small stash of diodes, but I'd have had to buy LEDs plus resistors. No idea what rating the diode I fitted is, but I tried applying 12v to the board in both directions for a few minutes and nothing blew up so I'll assume it's ok.

[HantuBlauLOL]

I usually use 1N4148 for N scale, it's small enough to fit in SMD socket

[Ochanomizu]

If the two bulbs were wired to light up depending on the direction, then the two diodes are alredy installed and the light board should not be modified. All that is needed is to replace each bulb with a led+resistor pair, wired in series. 

 

Hello,

 

So sorry, you are correct.  Thank you for bringing that to my attention.

[JR 500系]

So.. That set comes without lighting?

 

Yap.. It is BAD... The entire light assembly is missing... Please see the attached pictures...

 

 

I guess when you roll the dice and gamble on models that come out the back door of the factory.  This can happen.  You win some, you lose some.

 

MicroAce do not do spare parts.  Any fixes require the trains to be sent to them.

 

I guess so... However, this is the first time i'm buying from this guy so I think i'll probably never buy from him again since he is unclear in his description. He didn't mention anything about lights or motor working just saying this is about 90% new (which I think it isn't...) and everything refer to the pictures, which is VERY hard to see if the lights are inside!  

 

The missing front coupler is my bad, since it was captured in his photos so he is correct in saying everything as pictured. I was lucky though when I took out the entire urethane and found small bits of parts that have fallen off, and one of them is the front coupler... I'm still missing one end coupler though...

 

So far it was fine with the other sellers, just this guy. I got greedy and tempted by the price so I really couldn't complain much... Just my luck.. And hope to find a light assembly that somewhat resembles the Toei 10-300 otherwise i'm stuck with a set without front and rear lights...

 

 

One thing to check (after buying a Kato 117 Series with the same fault today, and repairing it):

 

Make sure it is actually the bulb, and not the diode!

 

In my case the bulb was fine when I clipped a pair of test leads directly to the PCB terminals, but wouldn't light up from the track. As the tail lights worked perfectly it was an obvious diagnosis and a fairly simple repair. I simply melted the solder, pulled the old diode out, and fitted a replacement (making sure it was facing the same way as the original). All lights now work.

 

Thanks! Not sure I fully understood that though as i'm quite an electronic idiot... 

 

 

Hello Mr JR500,

 

Where did you get A7290 from?

 

Hi E6 san... It's from the secret-China-behind-the-factory-stolen-QC-failed sets...

Edited August 24, 2015 by JR 500系

[HantuBlauLOL]

Well, that thing didn't pass the QC, and you know it. so you can't blame anyone..

 

It's pretty easy to make btw, but needs some fine soldering..

 

I think you can use Tomix's E231 light kit instead

 

But wow dude, the front section is almost entirely missing! Destination board, light optic, dummy coupler, etc.. I'm kinda pessimistic with this project

 

How much did you pay for this?

Edited August 24, 2015 by HantuBlauLOL

[JR 500系]

Well, not exactly blaming anyone but more myself for my bad luck... I guess the confidence built up over the multiple orders took its toll perhaps. Gotta be more bright now...

 

Yeh everything's gone like stripped bare... Nothing's there! It just looked like someone took them all out... Good idea to make it using available parts, but i'm thinking more for 201 series instead? Since the 201 series have the same type of headlights and tail lights arrangement like the Toei 10-300 series...

 

Front of 201 series (Picture from Courtesy of Railstation.net)

Note the top 2 numbers of head lights

 

Front of Toei series 10-300 series (Picture from Wiki)

Note the similar top 2 numbers of head lights, but square in this set

 

Rear of 201 series (Picture from wiki)

Note the bottom 2 numbers of tail lights

 

Rear of Toei 10-300 series (Picture from wiki)

Note the similar bottom 2 numbers of tail lights

 

I do agree too... This is a really far fetch project, but I really hope to get this train looking nice again with working head and tail lights...

 

As for the price... It was what really tempted me to get it... It's around US$60 for the whole 8-cars... I know, wild, but I paid the price for being rash and a cheap skate...

[kvp]

 

just saying this is about 90% new (which I think it isn't...) 

It can be 90% new, only 10% is just missing. In the past there were similar half finished cars in the junk bin at the Maerklin factory, usually missing roofs or windows. In this case only the front assembly is missing, so the spare parts only went so far. It should be visible on the photos, that not only the lights, but the clear plastic light inserts are missing, which is a bigger problem, since you can't put anything different there. Without the lenses, any working lights will look rather strange. (even most newer unmotorised Tomytec sets have the lenses made out of clear plastic) I would say this train is certainly a bag of spare parts case. Maybe you can try to get a non running set with working headlights and try to make a good set out of the two.

 

This is one of the reasons why one should not buy from shady sources, since there are no spares and this set can't even be sent back to MA for a repair without getting charged/sued. (in the best case they'll just deny fixing it)

Edited August 24, 2015 by kvp

[HantuBlauLOL]

I though the main headlight was on side bottom lol, my bad.

 

60$? Wow its too expensive for a broken model.. Well, at least its still running..