Usual Height Of Layout Modules

[gerryo]

I am doing a rebuild on some of my layout and wonder what the highest acceptable height is for module legs.

 

I have been having a lot of problems with my own legs, trying to get down under my modules to do wiring etc. No, I don't want to give up train modeling just yet. I think I have a few good years to go. I have all my module legs at 36 inches and am wondering how high to go to make it easier for me. I have even thought of going to 48 inches, just so I won't have to bend as much.

 

Any suggestions for an old guy?

 

gerryo

[Sascha]

The only problem I see is that the higher you get, the harder it will be to see the layout for smaller people, so you would have to build steps or a podium. I have seen a guy using a high back chair that he could lean almost straight because he had back problems. It worked great for him.

[Krackel Hopper]

They say the best viewing height for a model RR is slightly below eye level. So like.. chin height or so.. This gives you both a feel of being "in" the layout and not lording over it from the cosmos.. doing so helps trick the eye into a little more realism as well. The "slightly below eye" part allows for better viewing of the whole layout while still keeping the feeling of being inside it. If you look at any model RR magazine.. layout shots are almost always at eye level. Occasional overhead shots are taken for general idea of the floor plan of the layout.

 

However, that height makes it a little more difficult to clean tracks and such.. and very hard for kids or shorter people to view..

 

If you are building for a personal home layout.. Then I would build to whatever height is best for you.. only worry about standards if you are trying to build to fit with a local club or something.

[gerryo]

Thanx Guys, for your prompt replies.

 

My problems are with my legs so getting up off the floor from under the layout is the main problem. I could probably con someone into doing all my wiring, but to me the wiring is half the fun and gives me ownership of the RR.

 

Krakel Hopper, I have heard that, about the eye level layout. In fact, I have seen a few that were at eye level and it does give a good view of the RR.

 

Since we can buy some lumber at 4 foot lengths, I am going to try that. That's lower than eye level but seems good for me for now.

 

Thanx for the help, Guys.

gerryo

Edited August 2, 2015 by gerryo

[cteno4]

Gerryo

 

Sorry to hear about the legs. One good thing about modules is you can flip them to do wiring and work under the layout if you attach everything down. Or alternatively have a high rack you can pop them on to work under them in a low chair.

 

Krackle pointed out the usual differences in heights and views. Height for viewing is a really personal thing. Some hate the eye view and others the above view! Something to try yourself to see what you enjoy visually the most. If up at eye height then you do loose a lot of scenery depth and folks then got to thinner depth layouts, usually built around on the walls, or shelf layouts. You can do a bit of both at an intermediate level and get bit higher view while standing and use a elevating chair to get the eye level view. The really high eye level layouts have the issue you have to stand all the time and working on track and such usually requires working on a little step ladder.

 

If you think the physical aspect of your legs is going to be a firm issue I would figure out the best system and height to deal with that working on the layout and then figure out ways to the view the layout as you like best as if you can't get to work on the layout you will never have it to view!

 

Good luck with this.

 

Jeff

[velotrain]

> "If up at eye height then you do loose a lot of scenery depth and folks then got to thinner depth layouts, usually built around on the walls, or shelf layouts."

 

Jeff - my belief is that this happened because guys wanted more realistic layouts with longer runs, trains only appearing once in a scene, a real sense of the layout going somewhere vs. spaghetti bowls, etc.  Much more of an overall layout design consideration, vs. construction.

 

Gerryo - I think 48" is a good compromise, and is what the HOn30 module group I was in used.

You can always squat down some for an eye-level view, but that's very hard to do with a 36" track height.

 

Don't worry about short people - you're building this for yourself.

 

For working under the layout, a lot of guys will build something like a car mechanic's "sled", with rollers and a chair tilted back at a good working height and angle for you.  I should think one of the molded chair-seats with a back would be good for this - just pry it off the metal leg structure and remount it.

 

Micro Mark in the US sells this Topside Creeper, but it's likely exorbitant to ship offshore.

 

 

 

[cteno4]

Lots of depth at eye level is not of a lot of use as you can't really see it well at scale. The effect is lost a lot and thus like you said better to go to longer runs and also gets just one train in a scene.

 

Those cantileavering contraptions work, but they are not comfortable and would not be advisable with bad legs. They really require some contortions and some physical strain to hold yourself in the correct position to work.

 

I guess that is one thing that we didn't talk about is how much time you will spend overall working on the top and bottom of the layout and how hard it is to work on each at a height.

 

Are you planning on doing much fancy stuff like signaling and block control or jsut using simple dc and kato power routing? If it's the latter then the wiring is pretty minimal and perhaps you could hire some help to do the under layout stuff that gives your legs the worst trouble,

 

Jeff

[Kb4iuj]

I'm at this fork in the road as well.   Build something where I can sit in a chair with casters and cruise from work area to the next.   But some standing will be required when I put in the hills and mountains for the trains to go thru or around.   Hence something without any backing so it can be shoved under the layout and out of the way.   Plus, it's closer to the ground when you lean back or rotate around and go another direction.

 

This doggone loop I have is fun but one of the turns is just a bit too tight and the long engine jumps the track.   Big wide graceful turns are like the real thing.   Though, when I build the seven mile bridge to Key West with double tracks and the Havana Undersea Connection like the Tube in the UK.   I just have to wonder where am I going to get the workers to go under the Straits of Florida.   Jamacia or Haiti or the UK.

 

How deep is the English Channel as compared to the Straits of Florida ?   Anybody know ?

Edited August 2, 2015 by Kb4iuj

[Dorian Davis]

How deep is the English Channel as compared to the Straits of Florida ?   Anybody know ?

 

Average depth of the Channel is 400 ft.; main channel of the Florida Straits has been sounded to 6000 ft.

 

Dorian

[kvp]

I think it's important to be able to flip everything upside down or at least to the side. Just try to solder up, above your head. Lead rain is uncomfortable... So the best idea is to just turn the layout/modules over and sit down at a table with it for wiring.

 

Also if you like to thinker with electronics, just wire everything to a single connector, then attach an electronics cabinet there. (the top can be your control panel)

 

For height, my favourite train watching places are bridges over the tracks or the roofs of nearby buildings and i like to run trains while sitting in a comfortable chair. So a higher table height is good for me. This also solves the problems with longer shows and small children. Also if tables are provided you don't have to bring and set up your own legs. For a home layout this means smaller modules on unmodified tables.

[Bob_NZ]

My layout changes height.

 

1. The main yard has a track height of 40" which is under my elbow height - easy to work with rolling stock - not such a realistic view.  I use an adjustable height chair to lower my view of it.

2. Next main yard is 48" - still easy to work on it but I snag buildings with my sleeves.  I get good views by bending a little, to view closer to eye level.

3. I have a narrow yard at 63" which is close to eye level - gives the best view and I can still manipulate rolling stock but need most things to be automatic unless I use a step ladder.

4. track climbs to 71" - no chance of doing anything at that height - good for viewing non stop running through mountains.

 

Kids can use a stool or stepladder to view.

I do all work underneath while sitting on stools and cut down boxes. 

 

It does not matter what height I have, I still crack my head on something!

[gerryo]

Thank you all for your opinions. It's difficult to say what would be an all around comfortable height for all occasions. I suppose that we could all build everything on viaducts, and set each of them at different heights, but there would eventually be one that was just not quite right.

 

I am going to change all legs to be 48 inches, and with the viaducts that I have there will be some variation.

 

Thank you all for your ideas, now here's hoping I can now get on with it.

 

gerryo

[toc36]

Gerryo,

 

If your layout is wall mounted, you might be able to narrow shelf and hinge your layout to shelf.  If you have to build in sections, you can always use Ntrak (electrical and track) techniques to minimize time "under" the table.

 

It seems like it might cost more lumber, but it also might allow you to do more of the labor.

 

Mark

[velotrain]

Gerryo - I just ran across this image while looking for something else.  The text is:  "I Use An office chair from Walmart. I just unlock The lean back Pin And lower It All The Way down."

 

 

 

[cteno4]

Neat, easier than the grease monkey cart!

 

Jeff

[Pauljag900]

Hi Gerryo,I ve just bought a new shed to set up a new layout and I also have bad legs,well knees actually so I also have the same problem in getting up and down.i have a joiner coming this weekend to build mine for me as I ve just had a knee replacement.I d considered a few options but this is my plan.My baseboard will be 230cmx130cm and will run full width of the shed,I m going to set it at about 44 inches from the floor which is just below eye level when sitting down,it will be on rails at each side so for any wiring or maintainance I can just slide it forward and tip it up in its edge or wheel a low mechanics stool under to reach the other side.I m not quite sure yet if it will work ok but that's my plan.hope this helps,Paul

[gerryo]

Hi Paul.

 

ALL ideas help in one way or another. I have two problems basically. The first is that I live in an apartment and they won't let me drill the concrete walls to attach something like your sliders.

 

The other problem is that, now that I have put together this plan, in its current size, I am just too stubborn to make it any smaller. I have this idea, you see, that what I have drawn is PERFECT so will not think of making it a more reasonable size.

 

I have been told, by my wife, that this stubbornness comes of old age and it will only get worse. So I had better get on with it before I am too stubborn to use the proper length of screws.

 

Thanx for your advice,

 

gerryo

[Pauljag900]

Hi mate,I always think you should go as big as possible because you will always regret it later! Ha ha.I spent hours and hours on anyrail trying to plan a layout with a maximum depth of 100cm. It just could nt do it.The problem for me is that because of the trains I want to run i need certain radius curves so I planned my layout and then increased the depth to 130cm and then worked out how the hell I was going to get to the other side!! I ve settled on a plan now which is nothing special but it's a start for me and will have six trains running on it,four at one time an two parked at the station area.anyway mate,good luck,I m sure you ll work it out.Whatever the problem,there s always a solution,we just need to find out what the hell it is!!!

paul

[Guest Closed Account 1]

I am doing a rebuild on some of my layout and wonder what the highest acceptable height is for module legs.

 

40" to the layout's ground level is standard for Ntrak modules. Wheelchair eye level is about 43".

 

Consider this since you will be sitting nearby.

 

Be sure to make your legs adjustable to level the layout.