Kato vs Tomix vs MicroAce vs GreenMax

[Robert46]

Hi All Fellow Members,

 

Here I post a new topic again. This is just for fun and sharing.

This time is about comparing the great Brands of Japanese N Gauge trains manufacturers:

 

Kato vs Tomix vs MicroAce vs GreenMax

 

I have no idea if some people had already posted similar posts previously, but I have done the search and couldn't find any specific topics with the above subject in this forum. Or the topics that discussed about this more specifically.

 

I think the most common topics is the "Eternal War between Kato vs Tomix", but I am sure that MicroAce and GreenMax have great points also, although I don't know a lot about MicroAce and GreenMax. Not to mention Modemo here, but I didn't put Modemo as I thought the Four are the best ones to compare, please correct me if I'm wrong..

 

Admins please remove this post if you think that this kind of topic had been posted before so that you can save more space for your files storage. :)

 

Okay, let's get straight to the point. You guys can share your thoughts for everything you know about those brands so that it can be a good source for others.

 

Some points for comparisons:

- the plus or minus points, or upsides and downsides - price, designs, model qualities, motors, lighting, DCC options, storage cases / boxes, flexibility for modifications or to play together with other brands, etc

- If the brands had same models, which one is better? let's say one is closer realistic than the others

- The Variations/Types of the models, the history of the brands, etc (maybe it's too general)

- Other things that you guys think can be added for comparisons, you can compile it as you want for more organized explanations.

 

Look forward to have your sharings here. :) Thanks a lot!

 

Cheers..

 

 

 

[spacecadet]

These are my opinions:

 

Advantages of Kato:

* Friendlier to DCC

* More easily available outside Japan

* They paint the little heatsinks or whatever they are on the tops of engines green, as they really are

 

Advantages of Tomix:

* A few extra advanced non-DCC features if you go all-in with their system

* Makes really cool track cleaning cars!

* I find that most of their models look just slightly more detailed/accurate, especially colors and things like diaphragms

 

I don't have enough experience with Greenmax or MicroAce. MicroAce is too expensive.

[katoftw]

* Makes really cool track cleaning cars!

* I find that most of their models look just slightly more detailed/accurate, especially colors and things like diaphragms

Interesting opinions.

 

Track cleaning cars with rapido couples really make them available for any modeller to use.

 

Tomix being more detailed than Kato also triggered a WTF in my mind?  I think many manufacturers have trains that are more accurate than other manufacturers, and it comes down to each individual train.  A Tomix E239 for example has rapido couplers while the Kato version comes with TN couples.  Tomix also has a habit of having destination boards that do not light up.  It has stopped me buying a few of their models recently.

 

Kato adds all/most there decals (again dependent on model) at factory while Tomix normally requires you do fit your own.

 

---

 

Kato good:-

Decals done at factory.

DCC friendly if one cares for it.

 

Tomix good:-

Cheaper than all the rest, but you do miss out on some stuff, see other manufacturers good.

Basic sets are 3 cars and a little cheaper than Kato's basic 4 car sets.

CL feature if ones cares for it.

All car power pickup on Shinkansens, this features doesn't wow me, but is good for basic layouts with minimal wiring.

Have Shinkansens other manufactures will not produce.

 

MicroAce good:-

Have trains other manufacturers will not produce.

Accurate models.

Destination boards light up.

 

Greenmax:-

No comment.

 

In the end all the manufactures have their pros and cons.  And come pros and cons can be model/train specific.  Comparing the manufacturers is like comparing Cherry Blossom and Autumn Colours Seasons.  Not one is better than the other due to many little details.

Edited May 8, 2015 by katoftw

[Bernard]

Hi Robert --- It's not offensive your thread we all have our opinions I which company we prefer.....but in some cases there are trains that only Tomix makes, or Micro Ace (the Nankai 50000) or only Kato makes

 

Since I run DCC I prefer Kato trains because I find installing decoders is easier

Tomix has some nice advances in DC especially with some of their Shinkansens

Micro Ace has some of my favorite models that the Kato and Tomix don't offer

I like the Green Max kits but my main interest is Shinkansens and I don't believe they manufacture any.

[Robert46]

Hi Spacecadet, Katoftw & Bernard,

 

Thanks all for your sharings.. Much appreciated..

 

Yes, obviously those brands have some pros and cons, but my point is I wanna see the comparisons from many point of views. Not to limit only on specific things. I think it's really interesting to see other members opinions and experiences about those brands.

 

Therefore I really look forward to have you sharings.. :D More detailed on MicroAce and GreenMax will be very interesting.. :) so far I have read people mostly only compared Kato and Tomix..

[mrp]

Did you see this older thread?  It also has some good discussion.

http://www.jnsforum.com/community/topic/7288-who-is-considered-best-model-railroad-manufacturer/

[Robert46]

Hi mrp,

 

No I didn't until you posted the link.. :) yes, that's quite similar with this topic.. and very interesting to read. :) Thanks..

 

But if other members would like to give their comments to this topic, please feel free to do here..

[HantuBlauLOL]

Tomix: CL lighting, powered coupler on shinkansen, ultra close coupling on HG models (also available as replacement part). The detail is great on new models, except 'colored' details. The cab is poor on older models, dunno about new ones. Their driveshaft's quality is very bad, I broke nearly all of them.

 

MicroAce: Poor runner at first, but mine runs great without any need for replacement parts for 10 years. Their steam locos used 5 pole skew wound motor, which is excellent for very slow running. They don't sell any spare parts afaik. My loco's traction tire has blown in less than a year. I noticed no difference between having traction tires or not, so I don't care.

 

Kato: The mechanism is great, plug and play DCC on some models, good details, and they have a cab.

 

Can't say anything about Greenmax as I don't have any of them.

[JR 500系]

Please allow me to share some thoughts on this.

 

The reason why there were lesser comparisons between MA (MicroAce) and GM (Green Max) is probably because they have lesser production models than the 2 major brands, Kato & Tomix.

 

A lot of pros and cons were covered, and I really support the fact that Kato has their destination boards and car numbers factory printed, while Tomix have theirs in decals. While it's nice to have factory printed ones, Tomix provided the option of customising and creativity.

 

Couplers. Kato has good TN couplers usually in most of their models, while Tomix have their usual rapido ones. It's nice unless you want their trains to look like humans can fall off the train from the gaps in between carriages... And an additional cost is required for Tomix in the form of TN coupler sets in order to solve this..

 

Interior lights. Till now except for TORM (cant comment much on this as I have yet to try installing TORM on Kato models), there are no third party interior lights that can be installed for Kato, and IMHO I find the interior lights installation process of Kato tedious and effect of lighting is not as good as Tomix or 3rd party ones. The Tomix and 3rd party ones like TORM or illumi and even MA ones are dropped in so easily, it takes less than1 minute to install them! They also look fantastic and I feel makes the overall train model look alive. This factor has often decide for me which maker to get if both makers produce the same model.

 

Power couplers. The ace of Tomix shinkansen. One can vow that the current running through the power couplers over the entire car certainly makes interior lighting almost flicker-free, and very smooth running even at low speeds. (track cleanliness is also a factor here but that's another story). Too bad they are only available in Shinkansen models. I wonder why... 

 

Tilting mechanism. The ace of Kato over Tomix. Tilting mechanism makes the train tilt beautifully over curves as the way the real train will. Beautiful examples include E351 Super Azusa, 383 series Shinano and N700 shinkansens...

 

 

 

Tomix good:-

Cheaper than all the rest, but you do miss out on some stuff, see other manufacturers good.

 

 

I really have to differ on this. On this very popular comparison website, we can see the Tomix costing way more than the Kato for almost all models.

http://www.speedsphere.jp/RailRoad/Shinkansen/TecN700SeriesModelReview02.aspx

 

Let's do a little on MA ad GM shall we?

 

I have limited MA models initially, basically due to the fact they cost WAY more than the big 2 brands. (that changed however when I discovered my tissue source) MA makes models which the major 2 don't, like rare joyful trains (the 485 series salon trains come into mind), colourful and tastefully painted trains (Doremon takes the cake here) and often private rail companies train models like Odakyu, Keisei, Nishitetsu etc. Performance wise I have no complains about them, one little fact that I would like to highlight is that MA models have their interior light option (狭 for narrow, 広 for wide) printed clearly on the sides of their cases and on their instructional manuals which really helps to determine which interior lights they use.

 

GM, well, I only have one model, the recent Tokyu 5050 series Shibuya-Hikarie. Looks wise, fantastic, performance same as the others. However, cost is really on the HIGH side, and there is NO steel plates that carry electricity in the car carriages! This mean you have to buy external extra parts to convert them to be able to use interior lighting. Bad. They do have some seriously rare models though, if you fancy these rare sweets.

 

The last one not mentioned, Modemo? Usually making trams and street cars like Enoden or Randen, but did have a very small number of regular train sets (I have the Odakyu 20000 RSE). Nothing much to complain here, much like GM, but if you are a collector and lover for trams and street cars like Enoden and Randen, then Modemo is your friend.

 

Hope that shared some lights on things from my point of view ~ Cheers!

[cteno4]

In the end all the manufactures have their pros and cons.  And come pros and cons can be model/train specific.  Comparing the manufacturers is like comparing Cherry Blossom and Autumn Colours Seasons.  Not one is better than the other due to many little details.

This is a very good summary of the issue. This is an eternal debate on the forum, you will find many threads directly on this and many tangents on other threads with the debate breaking out. It is so varied with model that other than some big features like dcc slots on some kato and all wheel pickup on some tomix, it boils down to individual models. With a couple of hundred kato, tomix, micro ace, and greenmax trains in my collection I can't personally pick a winner. For some things I have a preference, like shinkansens and tomix as I love the all wheel pickup, it can run well on the grimiest of track! I love to more obscure models (especially the painted trains) that micro ace specializes in. At times kato has some nicer details or couplers, etc.

 

Many models you don't have a choice so if you want it you just have to use that manufacturer. For ones done by more than one, shout out and I'm sure you will get the individual pros and cons of the makers on that model.

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

[spacecadet]

Tomix being more detailed than Kato also triggered a WTF in my mind?  I think many manufacturers have trains that are more accurate than other manufacturers, and it comes down to each individual train.  A Tomix E239 for example has rapido couplers while the Kato version comes with TN couples.

Yeah but couplers are easy to change, whereas something like the paint scheme of the entire train isn't. I've found that Kato's colors are consistently a little off, and usually towards the bright/light side. It may not always be true but it has been true of literally every model I have compared.

 

Different people care about different things, of course. For me, it takes me out of the moment a bit if the colors of something aren't exactly right - it's something I'm sensitive to. It makes it harder to suspend disbelief. That's why I also mentioned the little triangular things on top of the locos, which Kato is better than Tomix at painting properly.

 

All that said, I've pretty much sworn off Tomix because of their DCC-unfriendliness.

[kvp]

 

All that said, I've pretty much sworn off Tomix because of their DCC-unfriendliness.

You would be surprised but the Tomytec stuff is pretty DCC friendly. Nicely isolated motors and pickups with solder tabs on the motors for wired decoders. The Tomix emu-s i have have the same general layout. You can essentially install decoders in them without soldering, assuming you use bipolar function decoders for the head/tail lights. Locomotives and very old spring worm drives are a different thing though. In this regard my lone microace emu is the hardest, it has two solid metal chunks as a frame that serves as bogie mounting, pickup and power routing to the motor. This means the motor and drive train fills the entire car to the roof. Two of my similarly old (20-30 years old) Tomix and Kato locomotives have the same layout. They are good pullers but absolutely filled with the half frames and the motors. I think this depends on the level of technology in the period when a model was made. I have an 1967-1969 Arnold Rapido locomotive that has the same fully filled general layout that these not so old trains have.

 

To say a different point, Tomix locos and trains tend to have a tighter turning radius, with many 20 meter emus being able to run on R140/R150 mini curves, which is a nice thing if you have less space. Also most standard Tomix trains arrive with a rapido coupler, which is good if you want to do operations, like train set splits and joins, but they are upgradable to 0 mm distance TN couplers. (even the cheap Tomytec train collection ones) Kato has a different system and many models don't have a fallback possibility to rapido, so you can't mix them with trains from different manufacturers. (most locos though do come with multiple couplers)

 

ps: Power couplers are only available for Tomix shinkansens because they use different couplers. So while most Tomix trains have all wheel pickups, the cars are not interconnected because there is no body mount TN power couplers available from Tomix. You can fit 3rd party parts though, like the ones used on the recent Arnold N scale brighton belle. (it takes around 2 minutes to couple two cars though, so for a 11 car Yamanote set, you would need up to 20 minutes to get it railed and coupled) I really hope Tomix comes out with TN power couplers though in the future.

[HantuBlauLOL]

Shinkansen power coupler with TN style body mounting.. A dream for every non rivet counting N scale modellers.

[E6系]

ps: Power couplers are only available for Tomix shinkansens ...

 

... and some Micro Ace Odakyu Romance car sets, particularly the 3000, 3100 and 7000 series ...

 

Otherwise, I agree 100%

[E6系]

I have nearly 150 consists.  Looking through the list, please allow me to reflect on some of the negative of each manufacturer:

 

GreenMax. I buy to get different running numbers, or Tokyu subway cars not made by other manufacturers:

 - Repairs must go back to manufacturer;

 - Most expensive of the big four;

 - Supplied with Rapido couplers.  Many models cannot be changed;

 - Some of the more unique models are only available in kit form.

 

Kato. I have more than any other manufacturer.  Generally good and most models come with correct coupler, but:

 - There have been several big mistakes with Kato such as: E1系 not prototypically correct, space between Glacier Express cars, I can't remember others but there have been some;

 - pre-printed car numbers means there is no point to buy two or three consists to have unique running numbers.

 

Micro Ace.  Generally good and most models are never re-run, which makes most of them limited release, but:

 - More expensive than Kato and Tomix;

 - Must be returned to manufacturer for repair, but I do my own if I can;

 - All models come with Rapido couplers but will take either Tomix or Micro Ace replacement couplers;

 - Product often arrives with parts not properly fitted.  Usually a bogie, wheel, panto or diaphragm;

 

Modemo. I only have the Odakyu 20000 RSE:

 - noisy runner;

 - must be returned to manufacturer for repair

 

Tomix. Despite all the good features ... :

 - Some models are still made with spring worm drive.  This is noisy and operation is not very smooth;

 - 92291 Nagoya 8800 has motor sticking up above seating and very visible;

 - is in the habit of rerunning limited edition models.

 

 

In my opinion, all are great manufacturers.  All have their strengths and weaknesses.  None of the points above is reason to avoid any particular manufacturer.

[kvp]

Tomix. Despite all the good features ... :

...

- is in the habit of rerunning limited edition models.

Shouldn't this be considered a positive? At least for everyone who is not a collector and doesn't want to pay extra for hard to find limited edition sets... (it's also good to have spare parts in production and available)

[Claude_Dreyfus]

Whilst I have a fair amount of stock, I'll mainly base my comments on the reasonably small percentage I use on Kanjiyama at shows - stuff that has to work for its living!

 

Micro Ace:

 

My KiHa53 railcar is one of the smoothest runners I have - completely silent and totally responsive. It is one of the first trains in my box when packing for shows. My Holland Village Express KiHa183 is a real crowd pleaser, looks great and runs well - but this is really too new to judge. Sadly the E131 set, whilst looking fantastic, is a little more high-maintenance. I suspect it needs a thorough running in, but does tend to get cranky at shows. It is included because it is JR East, and is a change from the KiHa110s. In terms of my other MA trains, they are all excellent, but do not run as well as the others in many cases. As mentioned earlier, they use rapid couplings for internal coupling. I'd give them 7/10 - great prototypes, excellent mechanisms when they are in the mood.

 

Tomix:

 

My DE10 is a stinker, and runs very roughly - I do not use it on Kaniyama. Sadly it has put me off using Tomix DE10s on the layout. Other units include a KiHa120 and KiHa40, which are nice runners, if a little noisy. The smaller railbuses are nice, but go get ratty on the points, so stuff like the KiHa10s run as pairs. Some motors, such as the 300 series Bullet I have, do have a knack of running dry. When the Bullets runs it occasionally give the tell-tale 'cough' of a motor needing lubrication. Others, such as my ED62, are an absolute dream. 8/10 - my earlier model ain't great, but the newer offerings are excellent.

 

Kato:

 

For me, Kato are my best performers. The freight locos are all Kato, and performance is exceptionally smooth and responsive. I can just about run Kanjiyama exclusively Kato, and sometimes do. There are one or two suspect motors - my JR 165 EMU is not a great runner, but that is it; my very best running train of all is the Kato EF210. I do not, however, think much of the auto uncoupling; which has not proved to be very reliable for me...particularly in show conditions. 9/10

 

Modemo:

 

I have a tram (300 series) and a class 313 EMU from this manufacturer. Sadly the tram was not used on Yamanouchi Oshika as the curves were too tight - it was the preserve of the Tomytec 'Portram', but the trams was still a good runner. Nothing wrong with the 313, even if it is quite an old model. 9/10

 

Greenmax:

 

I currently only have on Greenmax powered model - a two-car class 119. It is okay, but runs nowhere near as well as I have heard GM products do. The body is nicely moulded and liveries, but again it is not fantastic quality, so I am a little disappointed here. I have the GM track machine on order, so I hope this is a better offering... 6/10 at present; hopefully will improve.

[Robert46]

Hi All,

 

I really love all inputs shared so far. Much appreciated. :)

 

Really nice to have more complete and detailed information from the users of all the Four brands.. We're not looking for the winner as all of them are great manufacturers. It is everyone of us who are the winners since we have so many options to run the N scale trains..

 

Just adding some more points, maybe any of you can share experience for the below:

1. which manufacturer has the better quality of body shell plastic and accessories and also the paint or colors? Let's say the pantograph when you dropped it unintentionally is still intact and the body shell remain fine or maybe just a little scratch, and the paint is not scratched.. although for sure, scratch / crack will happen if we dropped the car, but maybe some of them had better plastic shell quality..

About the color or paint/decals, which one has better color or paint/decals after being stored or used more than 5 or 10 years, the plastic body color or the paint remain the same? white remains white, not fading into brownish white for example..

 

2. the motor they used, although all seemed similar, but which one has better performance or longer used time? Believed this has been answered on some replies above.. but maybe new posters would like to explain further too.. let's say when the DC current is more than 12V DC or more for some times, for high speed running purpose, one manufacturer's motor remains survived longer while the others might have problem of heating and reducing its life time. It's purely about motor performance related with supplied DC current..

 

3. if you like to do un-assembling and re-assembling the cars many times, which one has better/tighter joints parts so you don't need to worry that it will loosen easily?

 

4. The box/cases, which one has better designs or functionality? for me, as I only have Kato & Tomix so far, Kato might have better case design and look more beautiful/elegant..

 

All above four points definitely should be based on your experiences and no problem to be subjective as users..

 

Thanks..

[katoftw]

1. Again model specific and not manufacturer specific.

 

2. Again model specific and not manufacturer specific.

 

3. Again model specific and not manufacturer specific.

 

4. Again model specific and not manufacturer specific.  Some models that have individual Jewel cases for each car are a pain to pack and unpack.  Kato probably has the better looking book style cases.  But I'm more into the running of trains than hows the cases look, so I don't see much difference between the types available.  As long as they keep my models safe and dust free, I'm happy.

[Robert46]

Hi Katoftw,

 

Thanks for your comment.

 

In my opinion, my additional four points can be classified as general too, although it is definitely closer to model specific.. However, if you would like to make comparison based on model specific that will be okay too. :)

[kvp]

 

2. the motor they used, although all seemed similar, but which one has better performance or longer used time? Believed this has been answered on some replies above.. but maybe new posters would like to explain further too.. let's say when the DC current is more than 12V

This is one thing i can answer. The standard maximal voltage for Nj scale is 12V, but Kato motors are 16V tolerant, while Tomix motors are only rated up to 12V. For the same reason, Tomix motors reach full speed at 12V, while some Kato shinkansen are still rather slow at 12V. Generally you should never use more than 12V DC for Nj scale trains in alaog mode and more than 14V DCC in digital mode (the decoders actually drop it to 12V for the motors). Drive current should be below 1A even for the longest trains. The voltage rating for other manufacturers vary, some tram motors can be damaged even by 12V or using pulsed or PWM power packs. Modemo trams are made for 12V too, like Tomix and Tomytec trains.

 

For drive trains, some very old Tomix units have a spring worm drive, which can get rather noisy very fast. On the other hand, old Kato drivetrains are prone to cardan shaft damage, since they are much tinner than comparable Tomix or Tomytec drives. If you want to have smooth running, imho it's worth investing in PWM controller, which uses pulse width modulated 12V DC. This works well with even the oldest 3 pole motors, but the constant lighting frequency (if supported by the controller) can damage cheaper digital decoders, so these packs must be used with analog trains only.

[E6系]

Shouldn't this be considered a positive? At least for everyone who is not a collector and doesn't want to pay extra for hard to find limited edition sets... (it's also good to have spare parts in production and available)

 

Hello Mr kvp,

 

If  the model is being rerun, in what way is it limited?  I don't mind Tomix rerunning a model, but don't call it "Limited Edition" or give it a 929XX or 989XX number.  In my opinion, it is false advertising.  Let's compare with Micro Ace, for example.  They are doing their 3rd and 4th Nankai 50000 series.  All four have different product codes: A0750/1/2/3, and all have separate running numbers.  This is a good option that Tomix would be wise to consider.

[E6系]

Hello again Mr Robert46,

 

 

1. which manufacturer has the better quality of body shell plastic and accessories and also the paint or colors?

 

OK. There is one thing you need to understand: the factories in China are owned by Chinese government, or companies, and tender for the manufacture of models.  Some models are made in Japan, even current models.  If memory serves me correctly I purchased a Kato new release this year that is made in Japan.  

 

A manufacturer may use the same factory for a number of models, but then change from time to time.  Changing factory can lead to change in quality.  Such information is tightly guarded secret, so we don't know exactly what is produced where.  Also, I never have a straight answer on the quantity of manufacture.  That's a question that even Mr Kato himself avoids answering.

 

I have several Micro Ace models that arrived with the shell pushed down too far and the shell was slightly deformed.  These are the only product that I had a problem with the shell itself.

 

Several of the Micro Ace shell have windows fall out easily when the shell is removed.

 

Recent Tomix products are using plastic pantos.  My Kato 10-1271/2 115-300系 purchased this year have metal pantos.

 

I have 2 x 10-260 Kato 40th Anniversary EF58 sets.  The paint on the dark orange stripe on one of the sets has some bleed and is not a sharp line.  The other set is perfect.  This is a limited edition set that you would expect to have been of the highest quality, right?

 

I have 2 x 10-238 Fujisan Limited Express sets.  That equals 8 end cars with Fujisan head boards.  For some reason, on one car only, the head board kept falling out of the front of the car.  I eventually glued it into place with great care.

 

 

 

About the color or paint/decals, which one has better color or paint/decals after being stored or used more than 5 or 10 years, the plastic body color or the paint remain the same? white remains white, not fading into brownish white for example..

 

The whites will go yellow over time.  I have 2 x Kato 10-276 700系 shinkansen sets.  One has been on display and the cars have yellowed slightly on the side that was facing the fluorescent light.  I have now fitted my display cabinet with appropriate UV protected glass, and LED lighting.  I notice very slight colour differences between the Tomix and Kato brand for my 583系 and 115系 Yokosuka, but then, there were several different JNR versions of the colours also.

 

Also on the topic of colour, I don't know why some product has grey bogie while other has black.  Tomix, for example, has released a number of versions of 583系.  In 2002 they had black bogie, in 2012 they had grey bogie.  I don't know why.  When I look at real trains, all bogie is roughly the same colour to me.

 

2. the motor they used, although all seemed similar, but which one has better performance or longer used time? 

 

In addition to my comment about the Tomix spring worm drive, all manufacturers still have current product with and without flywheel.  Tomix motors have added circuitry to stop noise from Tomix CL constant lighting system.  If you employ the Tomix CL controller, you may hear noise from the motor of other manufacturer.

 

I recently acquired a Tomix 92061 485系 Midori Express for free.  I gave it to my nephew.  When we ran it I soon envied him and regretted my generosity, and that of my colleague who gave me the model in the first place, because, despite having no flywheel, it has one of the finest motors I have running.  It is so smooth and quiet, on a Tomix model which is probably 15 years old.  Meanwhile, my Nagoya 8800 from the same period is a rattly, noisy, spring worm driven beast !!!  (note: what happened to the line space? I do not know.  So sorry)

 

Light boards is something you did not mention, but I will.  Micro Ace seem to have the worst, but I have had trouble with all brands.  Micro Ace have many with round wire legs that make minimal contact with the copper strip running between the bogies.  I also had one where the solder had not flowed through the hole in the board to the leg beneath and thus the circuit was broken.  I undertook my own repair.  I am sure I have had to repair Kato, Tomix and Micro Ace light boards in the past.  I have also purchased brand new product with dirty copper strip that has required cleaning before light board would work.  I cannot remember which brand.

 

On the bright side (that is my pun :) ), Tomix still makes light boards for models manufactured in the 1990's.

 

 

3. if you like to do un-assembling and re-assembling the cars many times, which one has better/tighter joints parts so you don't need to worry that it will loosen easily?

 

I cannot comment on steam because I don't have.  I think the older Micro Ace and Tomix shinkansen are the most difficult to open to service light board.

 

4. The box/cases, which one has better designs or functionality? for me, as I only have Kato & Tomix so far, Kato might have better case design and look more beautiful/elegant..

 

Tomix and Micro Ace probably make the most effort with custom covers and packaging for limited edition and special release but Kato did a good job with 10-260 40th anniversary special.  Tomix usually has unique graphics on 929XX and 989XX models.

 

Generally across the range, I would say that the foam packaging used by Micro Ace is too tight on the model and make it difficult to insert or remove cars from the packaging.  I also believe it is the cause of product arriving with panto off, bogie off, wheel off, or shell pushed down too far.  I have experienced all.

 

Packaging style seems to vary randomly with all manufacturers.  Some come with instructions in clear plastic, others in translucent plastic.  Some have small piece of bubble wrap in front of the cars, others not.  Some have clear acetate, others have translucent silky film, others have nothing, some Micro Ace product have the silky film behind the cars too.  All product were purchased new, so my guess is this depends on what factory is used.

 

These are just my individual experiences with the models I own.

 

 

 

[E6系]

This is one thing i can answer. The standard maximal voltage for Nj scale is 12V, but Kato motors are 16V tolerant, while Tomix motors are only rated up to 12V. ...

 

So sorry Mr kvp, I know I have asked you before, but can you please provide your source for this information?  You probably answered me before, but I could not find your answer.

Edited May 11, 2015 by E6系

[kvp]

 

If the model is being rerun, in what way is it limited? I don't mind Tomix rerunning a model, but don't call it "Limited Edition" or give it a 929XX or 989XX number. In my opinion, it is false advertising. Let's compare with Micro Ace, for example. They are doing their 3rd and 4th Nankai 50000 series. All four have different product codes: A0750/1/2/3, and all have separate running numbers. This is a good option that Tomix would be wise to consider

Limited means only a small batch is producted at a time, but they are not called 'never will be reissued' editions. Many Tomix sets come with multiple sets of running numbers in the box, so every release has multiple options. This allows people who come later to purchase these products from retailers instead of hunting for 2nd hand deals, which essentially means more money goes towards Tomix and in return they are able to provide replacement parts even for older sets. So if you want to actually run your sets and not collect them for value, then you are better off with Tomix. (Also a used set that can be fixed has a better resale value than a 'never reissued, throw away on first problem' set.)

 

 

So sorry Mr kvp, I know I have asked you before, but can you please provide your source for this information? You probably answered me before, but I could not find your answer.

If you look at the instructions for Tomix and Tomytec trains, they are only rated 12V and all Tomix controllers follow this with some Tomytec controllers going as low as having a 9V maximum. Kato has a mixed N/H0 scale controller, with the H0 range along the red stripe. They also make european models, that needs be 16V tolerant because of some european N scale power packs and DCC systems. It's also a good safety mesure to protect your trains from overvoltage from your own controller. For this reason, both european, american and DCC compatibile Kato models have 16V tolerant motors with 12V as suggested maximal voltage. They might overheat a bit, but don't get damaged straight away from voltages above 12V.