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This layout is meant to be made mistakes on. I got the benchwork right at second attempt, first attempt currently serves as a bookshelf. I used it as an uni project, it passed, but my co-students glued turnouts off-place and now I'm trying to somehow remove them (turnouts, not co-students) without damaging. It's going to be a looong way before it's finished, but at least I get the chance to learn.

I modified it to run on narrow gauge. Took me a while 😛 Current pickup is currently only through one bogie. No headlights nor interior lights (yet?).

Hi guys Japanese H0m is a niche, so it's hard to find other people interested. Is there anyone else besides me?

I just wanted to share progress. All three modules are fully operational. There is fourth box, the longer type, waiting for tracks and wiring to be put onto. The shorter ones are 30cm long, the longer is 60cm. All are 30cm wide.

Hi Long story short: I need H0m wheelsets with axle as long as regular H0. The model is Tomix TaKi1000 tanker (product code HO-727/728/729), wheel diameter is 10mm, measured with calliper on rolling surface. No idea where should I look for, as this type of part is highly unusual - regular H0m wheelsets are the same as in TT, so they have too short axle.

Hello I've just bought Tomix' TaKi1000 in 1/80 scale. I intend to convert it to narrow gauge, but it's my first Japanese model ever, so I can still choose between going with modelling into: >#13 aka JM (1/80 13mm gauge) >#12 aka H0m (1/87 12mm gauge) >non-standard 1/80 12mm gauge 13mm vs 12mm: 13mm is accurate for 1/80, 12mm is accurate for 1/87, but 12mm is way more available. Well, it is simply "available" compared to extremely rare and Japanese-only 13mm parts. 1/80 vs 1/87: 1/80 is exclusive to Japan, so I'd have to either scratch-build or order from Japan every little thing that's not part of nature. But 1/87 trains are more expensive and have less variety, not sure about eg. cars in 1/87. I'm not planning to go into Shinkansen soon, probably not at all, but in 1/80 Shinkansen would cause even more mess with gauges. Is there any regular group of #12 or #13 modellers in Europe?