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@Mutro You can look at my reports of my February trip for some views from the JR hotel in Hakodate. We lucked out and got a room overlooking the station tracks. That is a north (more or less) view. Rooms on the opposite south side have views of Mount Hakodate. Ciao, Tony

Unfortunately, windows do not open in this 34th floor room so you may get reflections in photos out the window. Operable windows in high rises are typically prohibited or severely limited in opening for safety concerns as well as for HVAC controls.

Thanks. Good to know about JR Inn Hakodate as I’ll be staying there in a few days. We’re currently staying in Kakunodate in a restored historic building Wanoi, a collaboration between JR East and local communities. All over Japan, too many of these vintage buildings are left vacant, abandoned, demolished. Kudos to JR East for supporting local economy and preserving historical places of interest. https://familio-folkloro.com/wa-no-i/kakunodate/

Where did you see these?

Hello Rich, Thanks for your reply and how to install the headlights and taillights. The Tomytec trains I have are 3 HOe trains, two with TM-08R chassis and one with TM-TR07 two axle chassis, and two 1:150 trains: Chichibu 1000 series with TM-08R chassis. All have TT-03R trailer kits. I plan to install head and tail lights on all of them which is really straight forward (of course, custom made). The problem I will be most likely have is installing headlights and taillights on non powered units. Pretty sure it can be done and would be a challenge. Regarding interior lighting, I do run my trains in the dark (well, dimly lit room) when I can as I like it and all my other 1:150 scale trains have them fitted. However, I do find them to be too bright and thought to see if I do install interior lights, I do want it dim as possible as to only 'glow' in the dark. With regards to the above two paragraphs, the biggest challenge to me is installing electrical picks ups which will definitely require a custom job. I do have another idea of running wires from the power units to the non powered ones. It remains to be seen. Thanks again and best regards!

On a layout this size, you should not need more than two track feeders on each loop. The more serious voltage drops will happen at the track switches (aka turnouts, points). You can probably get by with a single feeder on each loop, if you locate them halfway around the track from the track switches and passing sidings. (Put them on the outer pair of tracks in the upper left corner of your plan.) But I'm used to DC, and realize that DCC pundits often recommend heavier-duty track wiring to maintain DCC signal clarity. The Tomix 5534 "DC Feeder" is really just a "track feeder" (just two wires with connectors at each end) that lets you avoid soldering, or stripping wire and using screwdrivers. It's plug-and-play: https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10009865 Tomix does not make a 3-way extension cord like Kato does; instead, it sells a "Y"-shaped 5812 branching extension cable: https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10010012 To stay plug-and-play, you can also use the Tomix 5813 plain track feeder extension cable to make your track feeds long enough to get to the back corners of your layout: https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10010013 So, if you want or find (by trains slowing visibly or misbehaving on DCC) that you need to add a second track feeder to each loop, you will need a 5812 "Y" cable for each loop. If you then want to switch between 2 separate DC power packs and a single DCC system for both tracks, get a third Tomix 5812 "Y" cable to connect from your DCC system to both tracks. Any additional track feeder you want or need will require another 5812. Your DCC system will not have a Tomix-style connector, so get a 5812 extension cable for the purpose of cutting off the connector at the power pack end, peeling the two wires of the cable apart at that end, and stripping the wire ends to attach to the DCC supply. Your DCC system will not come Tomix-compatible plug-and-play, but by making this separate modified cable, you will be making it plug-and-play. You can then either plug the feeder for each track loop into its own Tomix power pack, or to a branch of the "Y" connector now dangling off of your DCC system. No soldering needed... In terms of "anything else to be wary of," realize that the Tomix track switches have a built-in "complete power routing" feature which turns off power on both rails of the branch the track switch is *not* set to. With DC operation, that lets you store a loco or train easily by simply putting it into a siding and then throwing the track switch the other way - no insulated joiners or on/off wiring required. On DCC, though, the train in the siding will lose contact with the DCC control, and its lights will go out and the decoder may reset to defaults (direction, etc.). You may find the Tomix info website link below my signature useful to learn more about the Tomix system. Unless you are in Japan, your local hobby shop will probably not carry Tomix products. But these days it's very easy to buy over the internet from Japan. Both Hobby Search Japan https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/ and Plaza Japan https://www.plazajapan.com/model-train/n-scale/ (PJ is on Ebay, too) are two popular places that sell these items at discount prices through English websites that cater to overseas sales. International shipping is more expensive post-COVID, so plan out a larger order so you can spread the shipping costs over more items. International delivery is not Amazon-fast, but probably faster than you might expect. Rich K.

The dream to unify two halves of the Great Central Railway (In the UK) is slowly becoming a reality. A lot has happened since. I will update everyone on here as to what has and will happen with the Reunification project on the Great Central Railway. A bit of history first of this Main Line to London. The Great Central Main Line was the last built main line to London before High Speed Rail (HS1 and 2). Opened in 1899, the Great Central went from Sheffield (South Yorkshire) through Nottingham, Leicester, Rugby and Aylesbury all the way to London Marylebone Station (Central London). In the 1960's however (under the beaching cuts) the main line was forced to close completely. Many great railway stations, tunnels and viaducts on this line were lost and demolished. However in the 1970's a group of people came together to save the line between Birstall (Now Leicester North station) and Loughborough station. Since then the Great Central heritage Main Line now has the title "The UK's only double track main line steam railway" in Britain. It is the only place in the UK (Possibly the whole world) where two running heritage trains can pass each while running on the same railway. There is also a heritage railway centre south of Nottingham (In Ruddington) also on the former Great Central Main Line. (Above) BR (British Rail) Standard Class 5 73156 at Loughborough. One of the Great Central Railway stations. The Major update on the REUNIFICATION PROJECT. The UK's biggest heritage railway project. There is a 500 metre gap on the edge of the town of Loughborough in the UK. This town is also home to Loughborough University (A top UK University). This gap currently separates the Great Central in Leicestershire and the Great Central in Nottinghamshire. The point of the Reunification Project is to close this gap and reconnect both halves of the heritage railway together. To make a 18 mile long heritage railway. Amazing progress has already been made on this project. Three major bridge upgrades have already been completed. But more still needs to be done. The Great Central Railway (Leicestershire) has released a new YouTube video (below) to update everybody on the progress of the big Reunification Project. The project continues to gather pace with more money/funds coming in to keep the Reunification Project moving forward. The next stage is to apply for planning permission to build the remaining sections of the project. An overall planning application will be submitted by the Great Central Railway Management Board very soon to Charnwood Borough Council. (Above) BR (British Rail) Standard Class 9F 92214 at Leicester North Station. For more on this. Please have a look at the link below. And if you can please donate to the David Clark Railway Trust (on the Great Central Railway Website) to help make this mega heritage railway project a reality. The link to the GCR Reunification Update YouTube video (Official GCR YouTube Channel) : GCR Reunification update - April 2024 - new design revealed!

Yep, it has gone to Valhalla.

Kingmeow, thanks for the reply and info! I’m also in the US and the layout dimensions are ~8’x4’. I’m hoping there’s some kind of wire hub Tomix makes (doubtful) that can connect all the feeders if I do end up needing them. Madsing, thanks as well! Relieved to see that the DC feeder works. Do you know if Tomix makes any kind of wire hub like Kato’s to connect multiple feeders? I’m thinking of wiring things up as shown in this pic. The wire hub is in green and here’s a pic of Kato’s 3-way hub.

Amazing action shot of the magic smoke escaping. Sort of looks like a spirit leaving the departed decoder. jeff

Very sorry to hear that. 98 that’s amazing. jeff

I am using Tomix FineTrack with DCC. I confirm that all Tomix DC Feeders also work with DCC. Tomix just calls them DC because DCC is not popular in Japan, but they have no other function than connecting the wires to the two rails and they will work with DC and DCC. Marc

I'm in the US and Fine Track pretty much doesn't exist but many of the questions you ask are independent of what type of tracks use. I am a Digitrax user but again, it really doesn't matter which brand of DCC you use as the concept is the same. Without further ado.... 1.) How do I wire this setup from the Digitrax command station to both loops for DCC? No different than how you would wire it for DC. If you have it wired for DC, remove your DC power pack and hook up the Digitrax. 2.) Is setup a matter of “plug and play”? If so, what accessories do I need? I’m assuming Tomix 5534 (DC feeder) won’t work given the item’s name. I can't comment on this one as I don't know what Tomix accessories are. But, like #1 above, if you have two wires going to your DC power pack, remove the two wires and hook them up to the back of your Digitrax. It should be labeled RAIL A and RAIL B for track power. 3.) Will I have to solder any wires to the track? I have 0 soldering experience and want to avoid doing so for now. For a temporary layout, no. If your trains run fine on DC, then it should be fine for DCC. 4.) I may want to connect feeders at multiple locations on each loop to ensure uniform power distribution. I know Kato has Terminal Unijoiners and a 3-way hub to do this. Does Tomix have any similar items? How would I wire feeders to multiple points for this track plan? I can't tell how big of a layout from your picture but it's it's relatively small you may not need feeders. Again, hook it up with DC and if trains run fine, then you don't need feeders. If you do need feeders I don't know what Tomix has to make this simple without soldering but the idea is to get all the feeders to one input to your command station. 5.) Is there anything else I should be wary of using this setup? Just have fun. 🙂

Long time AJMRG club member, and member of JNSForums, Bill Pearce, known as @ben_issacs here on the forums, passed away this week on 21 May, 2024. He was a very kind, generous old soul, was welcoming of everyone, with a wealth of knowledge and embodied the old world concept of "gentleman". He had an unmatched enthusiasm for long Japanese trains and passed away doing his favourite thing, watching videos of trains on YouTube. He was 98 years old. Bill will be sorely missed.

On the quest to get a prototypical vintage SBB train, I came to cross with this little thing, being sold on Ebay by a Spanish person from Madrid and missed or ignored by everyone else. Result: I was the only bidder and got an as-new DCC-ready SBB Re 4/4 I cheaper than the much older Hobbytrain versions hoarded elsewhere in Europe.

This is already a week old, but I was rather busy and today I have some time to rest and settle down with my laptop, before another model exhibition. The big RG-Rokko delivery of May 2024 has finally arrived, with some club and friend orders piggybacking along! And the surprise this time was... KATO posters of the trains I ordered!!! 🥰 3x KATO 20-000-L Straight rail S248 KATO 20-005-L PC Straight rail S248 2x KATO 22-092 Electric noise canceller KATO 10-1780 JR 381 Yakumo Revival Livery KATO 10-1655 + 10-1656 RhB Bernina Express KATO 10-1273 RhB ABe8/12 Alegra KATO 20-873 V-14 Double Track Loop KATO 14-806-4 Yellow Classic Tram TOMIX 2771 JNR So80 Railway Crane GreenMax 31703 JR Kiha 110-200 Popondetta 6054 Tokyu 5200

One of my DCC decoders (a Lenz Silvermini+) went up in smoke. I replaced it with a Doehler & Haass DH10C and the Tomix EMU runs silky smooth now. Here is a video...

Hi everyone! Completely new modeler here with some questions about DCC and FineTrack. My goal is to run DCC/sound equipped locomotives on a simple 2-track loop, with each loop independent of each other (no switches/turnouts/crossovers). I plan to use a Tomix track plan that combines several of the Canted Track starter sets as shown in the pic (sorry for the quality). I want to stress that this will be a temporary table setup. Think setup/teardown every weekend as I currently don’t have room for a permanent/semi-permanent layout. For my control system, I plan to use the Digitrax EVOX Evolution Express Advanced 5A/8A Duplex starter set (I’ll also use it for high-amp HO trains). When not running DCC/sound locomotives, I plan to run DC Shinkansens on the loops using Tomix power packs. Questions: 1.) How do I wire this setup from the Digitrax command station to both loops for DCC? 2.) Is setup a matter of “plug and play”? If so, what accessories do I need? I’m assuming Tomix 5534 (DC feeder) won’t work given the item’s name. 3.) Will I have to solder any wires to the track? I have 0 soldering experience and want to avoid doing so for now. 4.) I may want to connect feeders at multiple locations on each loop to ensure uniform power distribution. I know Kato has Terminal Unijoiners and a 3-way hub to do this. Does Tomix have any similar items? How would I wire feeders to multiple points for this track plan? 5.) Is there anything else I should be wary of using this setup? Many thanks in advance!

A Few More Items Ready to Order The original sets of external stairs, which I was selling at half price due to a small error in their design, are sold out in some styles. So I will be ordering a new sheet with tabs orientated correctly. I figured I could add 4 more designs to etch this time. The new designs look like this: I will introduce the next 4 Guard Rail fences the coming months. The most recent set did not sell very well, maybe I have saturated the market a little?! Oops. Oh well, I really enjoy making them so I will carry on regardless. The next designs look like this: Finally I am making up a test batch of ready made Rabbit barriers, seen here enjoying their first coat of paint: I am planning a small run of the most popular designs. I am not sure how much they will be at the moment (hopefully around £2 per barrier) or even if I am going to sell them as an individual barrier (ie 2 rabbits connected with pipes) or as sets of 4 or 5 barriers. The batch above are for me to test different techniques for painting the eyes and nose. I need to find a process that is reliable and repeatable. If they do sell I will make a batches of elephants and dolphins (they both use the same colour), followed by either ducks or frogs. Joe

It looks neat, but I'd be really concerned if it got extremely hot in the car.

I bought this Keio Line pass a while ago because it has my new favorite (old) cartoon on it...was pretty surprised to see it come up on my JP proxy

Motsu worked with A-One on the opening for the newest Initial D arcade game, it's fantastic

Don't they all come fitted with the standard Arnold 'Rapido' type by default? Yes, the means by which the couplings are attached differ but this is not a problem unless changing to another coupling type such as Kato knuckles or Micro Ace miniature Shibatas or the like. If you have personally standardised on a coupling other than the default Arnold then I recognise that there is an obstacle there for you and apologise for being a nob.

It's not that, I was worried about how compatible are the models in terms of coupling since I like to operate different models in one train and if I need to switch out the couplings, which is going to be a big project all in itself the other company models look very great and thumbs up to Tomix and the others.

How's everything coming together?