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I need to create some storage containers like that for the several hundred mini capsule plarail windups ive accumulated over the years! But want to store them sideways so i can see them and put them in sets. jeff

Ahh but you are good sir. Your's fits so nicely on a bookshelf.

This is not going to end well! 🤣

Beautiful work and documenting it for others!

Since my Microace DD50 3/4 in Early March, I started to invest more in Diesel. Those are my newest buys. DD51 39 DD51 41 DF50 60 DF50 65 DF50 43 DF50 47 Kiha58 575 / Kiro 28 21 / Kiha 28 2360 / Kiha 58 573 are from Tomix, I put them into a CASCO Case. They will get soon suplimented with Kiha 20/25 DMUs. 😄

Have experienced a few more intermittent failures to run since detailing. I have concluded that it’s the contact clips that fit to the light board, 4 in all. I had to fettle a little more and crimp the clips slightly. The motor wires are extremely fine so some gentle persuasion was required. I will continue to monitor this but otherwise i may have to solder the contacts. Kato HO locos can be plagued by this issue as they design everything as push fit which means you don’t always get a secure contact.

@Kamome Thanks. Something i will look into.

Hi, Recently is made this little shunting layout just for the fun of it. Plan was to use Peco code 55 track and turnouts and run a dcc shunter on it. All rolling stock can be uncoupled by unsing of some magnets. All turnouts and uncouple magnets are manually operated. More info about the Inglenook can be found here: https://www.wymann.info/ShuntingPuzzles/sw-inglenook.html The baseboard measures 30x120cm and this is the trackplan. Placed all the rollingstock to give an idea about the dimensions. Some slots had to be made for the magnet uncouplers. An example of these uncouplers can be found here: . Each track of course needs a kind of bufferstop at the end (how do you call them when these trains don't have any buffers🙂). The Tomix bufferstops can easily be removed and glued on the Peco track. Here you can see the knobs for operating the turnouts and uncouplers. The little toggle switch is connected to a DCC_EX (Arduino Mega) command station and sends the shunter forwards and backwards. More info in the desciption of these videos The Inglenook in action. Made a unique card for each wagon, these cards can be randomly placed near the tracks. First move here is to send the red Koki 200 with the ONE container to the right place. Next is the green tanker (Taki 1000) and so on. André

Thanks for your assistance Junech.

Terrible photo but I’m getting closer to working point blades after a few wrong turns. what I’ve learnt is that there’s no way to get 3D printed stainless steel clean enough to silver braze to or at least no way I was going to. Much more sensible to drill through and braze the rail to a brass rod. Lots more fettling to do. I do think I’m onto something with this high silver content jewelers brazing paste. Perhaps unsurprisingly it makes a much stronger joint than lead free electronic solder if you do it right. Right is very clean and 715C.

Hi, I am about to make a new topic about the finished Inglenook puzzle layout with some info on the uncouplers. This lovely tiny shunter now runs on dcc with working lights on front and rear. One of the video's above show the disassemly of this engine. This is a nice place for the decoder. With the use of Dremel, a file and some elbow grease a space was created for the decoder. I also had to remove some off the chassis near the motor connections. Chassis is only 10mm wide so it's a tight fit. The decoder wires are cut to the correct length. The front and rear light units has to be modified a bit. Made this picture as an example, there are of course only 2 pieces in real life🙂. The light unit has two clips, one for each side of the split chassis. I removed the little black diode and desoldered the left clips (seen from the top) on both units and the colours show the right connections for the decoder. Made a complete set of the decoder, motor and light units. First test to make sure everything works properly before installing it. Job done, The decoder and lights are placed. Here you can also see the space created for the motor connections. And here's the little shunter running without any trouble over the turnouts. André

You could look at a 2nd feeder on each rail to reduce the furthest distant from the power feeder. The most ideal would be the opposite straight on the other side of your setup to half the track length to feeder. Just ensure the wires are installed in the correct orientation to avoid a short. You’d need: 1 pack 24-828 Viaduct track feeder wires 2 packs 24-833 3way splitter connector.

I'm not worthy!!!

Wow, thanks! Do you know if the 20% is applied at check out or are the prices already marked down?

Suruga-ya have another 20% off sale (Y10,000+) at the same time as a free shipping “weekend”. https://www.suruga-ya.com/en/campaign/toy-hobby-coupon250510

Karakura will be on tour in the new 'hobby season' after summer. The first confirmed date is on the 4th and 5th of October in Sweden at Skansen (Stockholm). Apart from the tour dates, the layout will be permanently displayed at the new Magica Miniatura workshop in Amersfoort (The Netherlands), starting July 1st. Grtz! Huib

Yep, get some run time in and enjoy it. You need some charcoal ash? I got plenty in my grill. Your loco might smell like steak though haha.

Not really. The roof piping had to be removed and then the 2 flexible pipes running the top of the boiler fit into little eye holes on the cab front. I’ve ordered a crew but seems to be taking a while. Once the pack arrives it is the last thing to complete. I’ll probably enjoy just running it for a while digesting a lot of steam weathering tutorials before I succumb. I was hoping to disassemble but I think i’d be pushing my luck a bit.

Since they are Japanese train I use Google the Japanese names (南海8300系電車) while searching. That way Google will find even the smaller blogs. Just take the name and add a "N" for the scale. My Google image search is full of N-scale pictures and besides a Shorty version Hobby Search lists 2 sold out pre-order options: https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10564837 https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10564836

Has that ever been produced in N scale if so by whom? In my recent searches, I haven't found anything but my Google fu is weak sometimes thanks.

Wow, awesome! Was it difficult to remove the cab? Seemed like a lot of piping and details in the way. That big screw holding the body on? The two coreless motors gotta be tied together. Really wish they would include a parts breakdown with their models. I've been looking at my circa '95 HO GP35s and they all have parts breakdown included. None of the new stuff does nowadays. BTW, Kato sent me an email. Parts are in stock for this thing. https://www.e-katomodels2.com/shop/c/c10020201/ You can get a power unit for approximately the same price as what the retailers list for the entire unit... 😞 BTW again, what is N hut?

It is nice as it’s all ready to go and considerably cheaper than precut ttrak modules that get quite expensive with shipping costs these days. Small ttrak modules are great for learning scenery techniques on and also just designing scenes than diving into a big layout. If you keep looking around hopefully you can find the 1.5” deep modules. Amazon has them, hopefully amazon.ca. Is there a national art store chain in canada? Here in the states big online shops like dick blick’s art supply has them in a lot of sizes. Problem with the 3/4” deep modules for ttrak is that you have to get a set of bolts quite close to the running height as you can only have about 5/8” of play in the threaded insert for adjustment. Also a bit spindly on the leg bolts. You can also make a girder of a couple of lengths of 1x2 that are separated about 8” with a couple of dowels or cross pieces. This can be 1x to 4x module lengths and just plop the thin modules on top of the girder and level the girder to the running height of the regular ttrak modules. I used this on my old 25mm ttrak streetcar modules that were 1” in height when I ran them with full height modules or also just to level 4 modules at once when we had to set up tables on very uneven lawns and trying to level all the modules at once would have been a total pita. I also experimented with one 1” high module where i put two hunks of 1x3 going across the bottom of the layout. Sort of like a wooden sushi platter looks. Under the cross pieces i put threaded inserts for leveling. My thought was to use magnets to hold the cross pieces and then I could pop them off for storage, that way you get the extra storage space from a thin module. I will probably do this if I do any more ttrak modules with the 3/4” wooden canvases so the cross pieces would bring the module up to 2.75” regular modular height easily. I may try them out with some 1.5” wooden canvases. I’ll see if i can dig out the test module base. It was cute, looked like a little sushi platter. just some ideas jeff https://www.amazon.com/Falling-Art-Unfinished-Gallery-Painting/dp/B0D3TVSTGH/ref=sr_1_7?crid=5UNTDTQUPA11&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.aDOMy5Nkx601f_gW7SoKXiw0wrBvQnH6kFxp11hANgzjDrjU4DEI6hzyNgDNJTGlkW_Uy4adnES4qVIgMfIDzf3nnGa76FWRkzSfU5pk4eWhiDLaQjIpIHHjQFkPj_DFhkw2WNMx-bdUUfpIB4jqB0tJkrzZeyQ48f59wfDDUo9I65b5yXwfVXVtDYwIN88Ddnc5tw0Ua22_v4Th0woiTL0WNqtsYUROiDTXOJkk9rMYjSvMe3J9h5du0v7vgjgNzBrF0jdF33218njPVwaavtIs4Q7CunAEtbNxoEXJoPI.rQU95RIRV61dMCBp3LPrX4L8W_ZENU5Ntz-wQVk_lg8&dib_tag=se&keywords=9x12%2Bwooden%2Bcanvas&qid=1746929875&sprefix=9x12%2Bwooden%2Bcanvas%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-7&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Art-Supply-Pouring-Boards-Gallery/dp/B07GHBHD43/ref=sr_1_25?crid=5UNTDTQUPA11&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.aDOMy5Nkx601f_gW7SoKXiw0wrBvQnH6kFxp11hANgzjDrjU4DEI6hzyNgDNJTGlkW_Uy4adnES4qVIgMfIDzf3nnGa76FWRkzSfU5pk4eWhiDLaQjIpIHHjQFkPj_DFhkw2WNMx-bdUUfpIB4jqB0tJkrzZeyQ48f59wfDDUo9I65b5yXwfVXVtDYwIN88Ddnc5tw0Ua22_v4Th0woiTL0WNqtsYUROiDTXOJkk9rMYjSvMe3J9h5du0v7vgjgNzBrF0jdF33218njPVwaavtIs4Q7CunAEtbNxoEXJoPI.rQU95RIRV61dMCBp3LPrX4L8W_ZENU5Ntz-wQVk_lg8&dib_tag=se&keywords=9x12%2Bwooden%2Bcanvas&qid=1746929875&sprefix=9x12%2Bwooden%2Bcanvas%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-25&th=1

Continuing with detailing, there really is a lack of information on where to put things with the detailing pack, or which areas used which particular parts. I ended up using a standard version N gauge D51 for reference for most of the build. Here’s a reference of the minimal detail I painted in the cab. (cab removed) Satisfied it seems to be running, I have now added coal to the tender along with the fireman’s tools to give the lack of depth, a little more depth if that makes sense. I’m sure the shovel would fall onto the tracks if positioned here in real life but hopefully creates some interest. The stoking rod also has no hanging points so though I’d lay it here as to not cover other recesses details. Artistic license and all that. As mentioned, I have also removed the cab to next apply most of the dry rub decals as I think it will be easier to position everything. Still haven’t numbered it yet but have decided on 341 as it was in the Sanin area. I think the most challenging of the dev rub decals will be on the air tanks as they are slightly hidden by other paperwork. There are also cylinder inspection numbers although these look much larger than the photos i’ve seen.

Looks good Kami_illy! I too have many B-Trains. You cannot have too may though. I store mine in an Ikea Alex drawer with custom cardboard boxes and dividers. Cheers, Todd

Finally have my first working permanent track set (can expand if needed as i did order excess tracks). Still working on the train running smooth and need more trains to arrive but fun to play with.