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Tomix Trackpacks


wazzd

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I've just acquired some Tomix track, new basic set 3,and... track pack C (91023)...elevated track with piers and D(91024) system up rail set .Obviously it's not the fine track and they came in the blue and grey boxes so I'd like to know how old it is. I see that the current track has different coloured ballast, apart from this is it still the same?.

From set c it's missing something numbered 3010 1002 s280 I'm thinking it may be a bridge?. I only received the track from set 3 no stock or the station, though I did get the footbridge with the building on top. So I am now going to build a small layout and need to get some more bits I will be visiting Japan again early next year so yes there will be some shopping!.. I think the layout will be on an old door I have, 2m by 800mm will be plenty for me to start with. I have not had any involvement with Tomix track before as Kato seems to be more prominent here in Australia so I need to find out more, I would like to use the crossovers and points to build a typical Japanese station with a double track main,3 or 4 platforms and use the overhead wire poles etc .Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.

Edited by wazzd
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The old track system is from the 1970-ies and you have to do some cutting/sanding to get the old and new tracks to connect. Besides that, the old turnouts are 3 wire, like most european systems and require a different control system to operate. There are less track variants and generally harder to get spare parts. S280 is a 280 mm straight piece, It can be replaced with two S140 or four S70 pieces.

 

The basic unit for Tomix tracks is 7 cm (70mm). Straights and turnouts are a multiple of this with 70, 140, 280 mm (Sxxx parts). Basic curve radiuses are also a multiple with 140 for mini tracks and 280 for normal tracks (Rxxx parts). Turnouts are similar, with 140, 280 and 541 being the basic versions. Track distance is 37 mm which is approximately half the basic uint. The classic Tomix track system uses R280/P541 almost exclusively, which pretty much negates all the positive points of using Tomix tracks instead of Kato, while all the special turnouts and extra tracks are not available.

 

Personally i would advise against using the old track system, but if it was much cheaper than the modern one, then it might worth all the problems that come with old stuff like this.

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Kato and Tomix quick snap stuff is all similar. If you can get you head around Kato, then Tomix is a breeze.

 

Tomix us lengths of 280mm comparded to Katos 248. And divisions of that also. So , 140mm, 70mm etc.

 

A missing S280 is a straight section that is 280mm long.

 

The section sections(platforms etc) are 140 and 280 long. depending on model.

 

Track spacing for Kato is 33, while tomix is 37. Curves (not minis) start at 243mm and go upwars in 37mm radi, much like kato radi in 33s.

 

It really is that simple, just like Kato.

 

No need to wait to buy from Japan, it is readily available through common channels.

Edited by katoftw
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The classic Tomix track system uses R280/P541 almost exclusively, which pretty much negates all the positive points of using Tomix tracks instead of Kato, while all the special turnouts and extra tracks are not available.

Can you explain that in more detail? I dont understand how that is a negative.
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Can you explain that in more detail?

With finetrack, you can use several different style of turnouts and tracks. The classic track system uses only 1 style and you can pretty much only choose from the 2 basic turnout types. Kato has the same limited options, but it's easier to get new kato tracks than old classic tomix. So if you have the money, i would suggest to use finetrack. If you don't, then kato unitrack and only use used classic tracks when even the new kato is too expensive.

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Hello Mr wazzd,

 

Firstly, lets leave all this talk of Kato and limitations behind.  I can assure you that your old Tomix track with brown ballast is compatible with the current Tomix Finetrack range.  Further, I have a colleague who went to the effort of painting some of his original track light grey, and then speckling two shades of darker grey and black onto it to make it look similar to Finetrack.  He did this as a gradient across the length of the pieces so that one end had no paint while the other looked similar to Finetrack.  He then used his old track for sidings and branch lines and the result was quiet impressive.

 

Now, to the question of your missing part: Tomix 3010 is a Truss Bridge, modern type, blue, with a S280 straight piece of track built in.  It is obsolete item.  New item is Tomix 3030.  It includes one piece of S280 Finetrack.  It is widely available.  The bridge and  piers are identical to 3010, only the track has changed.  If you prefer a red bridge, please choose Tomix 3031, or for cream colour, Tomix 3032. 

 

If you have any concerns please consider the Tomix / Easy Trolley website here: http://www.trainweb.org/tomix/ and read the information about Tomix Finetrack.  Please enjoy your Tomix track system.

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Thank You E6, nice of you to fill in the blanks......so if I want to add to it can I use either the normal track or the fine track?

I'll have to buy some as everyone I know has Kato track, that's why I didn't want to find out the hard way!

Does Tomix have a track template like the Kato version...which I have already, I may just change direction now as this Tomix stuff didn't cost me anything, that's a bargain in anyones book1

Thanks Again for the replies

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Also free if your track plan has less than 100 pieces.

 

I think the limit is only 50 pieces, but I agree, AnyRail is a very good and easy to use planning software.

  • Like 1
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Ok I'm getting there.... As I have the old ( i.e. brown ballast) manual double crossover and points, is it possible to add a motor to them, will the new style point motorising piece I've seen fit? 

  • Like 1
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it has been discontinued for some time.  you might find supply of them somewhere.  but for a double crossover, you will need 4 motors.  almost worth just buying the new version.

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ok, I thought because it has just one flick switch that changes all blades at once I may be able to rig something to do the same instead....I'll keep scratching my chin!

Thanks.

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The old Tomix track is compatible with the contemporary Fine Track from Tomix, but the motors of the points are not compatible with the NEO system, as this is DC powered and not AC powered as the original Tomix point system. More info can be found here: http://www.trainweb.org/tomix/control/TomixControlSystems.htm and http://www.trainweb.org/tomix/control/TomixControlSystems2.htm

 

The old tracks also had a lot of different versions for the points. Some without motors, some without motors with the possibility to retrofit (I think these were the last of the old types, probably fitting in the NEO system), and some with integrated motors on the side (like Märklin Z-gauge track).

 

I don't know very much about it, but personally after finding out about the extreme differences between the old control system and the NEO (current) system used by Tomix, I want to stay as far away as possible from the old style track system as possible. Even if it's super cheap at 2nd hand shops!

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The old and new systems can be mixed, mainly the new system can be used to drive old point motors with the addition of a few small circuits between the old turnout and the new control box (afaik two diodes installed like on a conrad motor if the DC voltage enough, if not, it can be increased with a controller independent supply). For the unmotorised turnout, if it has the slot for the old motor, then an old one can be installed there. If it's strictly manual, then connecting an external turnout machine is possible and then it has to be wired to operate from a new control box. For example Tortoise turnout motors can be controlled with the Tomix track power polarity switch and an external DC power source connected in place of the train controller. Generally it's going to be a lot of hacks and the old Tomix turnouts are dumb like the current Kato ones, because they can't be cut (not spring loaded, isolated only on the center rails and the polarised frog would cause a short). So if you happen to get them cheaply, doesn't care about the retro look and know how to hack circuits and mechanics, then it's worth giving them a try. Otherwise the track is good, so if you stay away from the turnouts and the electrical parts, it's easy to integrate an old piece of rail into a finetrack layout.

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