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Going Japanese!!!


Pauljag900

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Pauljag900

Just so you know I'll probably be stealing the design of this yard when I eventually build my own like this hahaha. Looks great.

 

Ha ha,I think that's how I got it! No probs nah00. I ll let you into a secret,I have nt been happy with the road area along the front of the storage yard,tried a few options but not happy with any of them,I then realised the kato station road plates,23-411,will fit almost exact from end to end but I will need to extend the depth by 3".I may need to modify them slightly but they re on their way and will be here tomoz so watch this space,will post in due course,

Paul

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If you cut the plates in half you may have a perfect fit. Only one side of a road but you get double the length. 

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If you cut the plates in half you may have a perfect fit. Only one side of a road but you get double the length. 

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Pauljag900

Hi nah00

The station set is five road plates totalling roughly 125cm,the length of board is about 128cm so it s nearly perfect length,the single rd is a great idea to reduce the width but for me I need it complete as I also want to run the tram track alongside on the outside and fulll length of the board.The only thing I hav nt worked out yet is where the station will fit as these plates ,as I m sure you know already,are actually designed for in front of the viaduct station,I m not too worried to be honest I m sure I ll figure it out ok,

Paul

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Pauljag900

With the arrival of a set of station rd plates,a car park and some extra fine gravel I can sort out the front edge of the storage yard.

Placed loosely in position they may need a bit of modification to get them to look right,also need to modify station to one entrance and lengthen the tram track slightly.

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Pauljag900

Very nice!

Would you mind sharing how you made the roads and markings?

Hi madsing,I did nt make them,they are kato station road plates,item no, 23-411 and detail parts item no 23-416

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Pauljag900

So I ve had a bit of a play about and I think this is how it will end up,I ve borrowed the Park kit from the other side of the layout for now but will either get another one or will probs just scratch build one,the square on the left will be home to one of the kato corner buildings..Bit of painting and scenics to do to tidy things up but basically this will be it.

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Hey Paul - looking really good - everything on hold here as I've knackerd my right shoulder and am in no position to get my log cabin erected

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So I ve had a bit of a play about and I think this is how it will end up,I ve borrowed the Park kit from the other side of the layout for now but will either get another one or will probs just scratch build one,the square on the left will be home to one of the kato corner buildings..Bit of painting and scenics to do to tidy things up but basically this will be it.

attachicon.gifimage.jpegattachicon.gifimage.jpegattachicon.gifimage.jpegattachicon.gifimage.jpegattachicon.gifimage.jpeg

 

Nice setup, I thought you meant just the normal road plates not the station ones. You may be able to wriggle the other entrance in there but you'd probably be better off just covering it up. I also spy my favorite E3 in the background there.

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Pauljag900

 

Nice setup, I thought you meant just the normal road plates not the station ones. You may be able to wriggle the other entrance in there but you'd probably be better off just covering it up. I also spy my favorite E3 in the background there.

Hi nah00,

Yes I probably could but I d have to chop the framework as the plaza area is lower than the pavement so the entrances would be at diferent heights.The other issue is that it needs to line up with the platforms and they re only short so needs to be where it is.

Unfortunately I did nt plan this as it was only ever meant to be a storage yard for the trains but as usual I got carried away ha ha.

Hence why now I need to customise stuff slightly.

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Pauljag900

So managed to pinch a few hrs in between painting the house to connect all the road plates together but not fastened down,laid the car park at the end and did some ballasting and scenics to fit it in.Tram track needs a bit of tidying up as it was used elsewhere and is full of holes.

Next step is accessories kit and some nice figures,cars and BUSES(jr500?)

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  • Like 6
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Thought I d make a start on some detailing as I can t do much else at the mo so removed the shrine kit and fitted lights and scenics,lights not wired yet as I m waiting for a new power supply

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  • Like 9
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did you paint the area of tan gravel?  cos it looks more course than normal.

Hi kato,

The tan gravel is actually the base of the kit as it comes,I have nt added anything to it,I did nt actually do anything to the basic kit other than add a few figures,it s as it comes in the box.I just mounted it to some styrene to make a void for the wiring then added it to thick card slightly bigger than the base and just added scenics to the surrounding area on the outside

Paul

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Drunkenclam

I know its a little late in the day. But a simple modification to the automated tram system. I read it somewhere years ago.

 

On the section of track before the insulated section where the tram stops. Insulate that section too. But then rejoin the rails using a resistor or varible resistor. Then when the tram gets to that section. It will run at a slower speed then stop at the isolated section.

Then when it pulls away it will run slow through that section and back to normal once cleared.

 

Rather than just coming to a dead stop from normal running speed. As to the resistor values. Its a bit of trail and error to get the speed you like. Of course you could go nuts and do then same thing to the section of track before that too.

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It s never too late to offer advice or ideas so no probs.

It s something I thought about but not looked into,it may be a bit beyond my capabilities to be honest but I think you re spot on,it would look more realistic that way. It s something I may look at when fine tuning the detailing at the end,thanks for the idea clam,

Paul

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Yeah that's the rub with most of the autoreversing units out there, instantaneous full speed and stops! Loved the minatronics ru21 as it gave you a nice acceleration and deceleration. But came at a higher price tag of course and no longer in production. I'm surprise similar models have not popped up based on audrino circuits/programming. The ru21 was a simple pic processor I think, was not a lot needed, just the input from the photo sesnsors and then deceleration and stop on photo trip (and if a reverser sensor reverse direction), then acceleration to after the set pause time. Only other programming was to average the high values for any uncovered sensors at the unit power up to set the high value (very nice little feature).

 

Clams suggestion sounds like one to try, but I would do it using diodes to drop the voltage instead of resistors. Resistors will get hot and you need pretty low ohm ones at high power ratings and will be variable with different motors. Diodes will evenly drop the voltage 1-1.5v w.o a lot of heat and easy to just add more in series to get to the effect you want. All you need to to do is gap a rail like you did for the diode for the reverser in the area before the stop track section and bridge it with a pair of diodes that are wired together in reverse direction (just like you did with the single diodes in the stop section at the ends). the reversed diodes wired together (solder both ends together but the diodes in reversed direction) allow the current to flow in either direction as diodes allow current flow in only one direction. So in one direction it flows thru the one diode and the other direction it flows thru the other diode. Then you wan wire up more sets of these paired diodes in series to keep dropping the voltage to set the speed you want on the slow track. 1a diodes should work fine for a tram.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100PCS-Diode-1A-1000V-1N4007-IN4007-DO-41-Z1H-/271868712491?hash=item3f4ca3562b:g:tp0AAOSwqu9VUrgs

 

I can draw this up for you. All it needs is a joiner power feed for the slow track and an insulator then wire the power feed for the slow pack into your power pack with the diode pairs in line.

 

Not any harder than what you did for wiring up the reversing circuit, just a few more wires!

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

  • Like 2
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