Japan, shuppatsu shinko!

[Nick_Burman]

Hi all,

 

 

Well, it has happened - my trip to Japan is "on". I paid for the tickets today. Now we are working on details like accommodation and suchlike. Outbound route from Brazil will be São Paulo - London - Frankfurt - Narita. The return will be Narita - Frankfurt - Milan - São Paulo. Why not fly direct? We have family affairs to deal with in Lunnon, and Mother put her foot down that she wants a smattering of Italy (she is of Italian descent). So we are running 3/4 of the way around the planet rather than 1/4...

 

In Japan, the basic itinerary will be as follows:

 

Arrive Tokyo

I

Oigawa Railway

I

Toyohashi

I

Iida Line

I

Matsumoto

I

Alpenroute

I

Toyama

I

Kurotetsu

I

Takayama

I

Kanazawa

I

Kyoto (Kansai rather; I think we will use Kyoto as a base and then move around by train to sights in Kobe and Osaka)

I

Nagoya (unsure yet)

I

Tokyo (depart)

 

We will be travelling on the last week of April and the whole of May 2014. We are now working towards obtaining accommodation, first in the European leg (we are thinking about hiring a flat or house in London and Milan for the week each that we will be staying at each place as it seems to be cheaper than staying in hotels, although I checked one major budget chain in London and they gave me a very good quote for a room); the Japanese leg depends on us fixing the itinerary. In Japan we are planning on relying on Toyoko Inn hotels (at least for the main cities where they have a presence) and having them make reservations for the next one down the line (what do you old Japan hands think?); we told our agent that we wanted to stay in at least one traditional ryokan along the route, though.

 

Travel will be by JR Rail Pass; we will pick the 21 day one, plus assorted urban transport passes. To make the best of the pass, we are thinking of leaving Tokyo itself for when the pass expires...then we can move around with a regional pass or something similar.

 

Since this is my/our first trip to Japan it will be a mixed one, part sightseeing, part train riding. I've already inserted most of the obvious museums in my itinerary, but any suggestions are welcome...also of places to watch train action (especially freight.

 

Assorted "tourist" advice is also welcome...food, drink, etc...

 

 

Cheers NB

[bikkuri bahn]

In Japan we are planning on relying on Toyoko Inn hotels (at least for the main cities where they have a presence) and having them make reservations for the next one down the line

You can always use their English language website to make reservations yourself.

[Guest keio6000]

I have been travelling nonstop for the past n years or so it seems. As i write this i am on a coach for heathrow for 2 weeks in the usa. Last week i was in central europe, immediately before that 2 weeks in east africa and the week before that in southern france. And yet, i am always jealous when i hear somebody is off to japan. Have fun and have a great trip!

 

[bikkuri bahn]

i get jealous when I hear people can take a whole month or more for holiday.

[Nick_Burman]

i get jealous when I hear people can take a whole month or more for holiday.

 

I'm only managing it because I spent the last 22 months stuffing the piggy to suffocation on a contract job which paid me reasonably well. Being located in the bush, didn't have much to spend money in anyway...so now I can splurge.

 

Cheers NB

Edited November 20, 2013 by Nick_Burman

[yakumo381]

Nick - suggest you take into account in your plans the difference in daylight hours between Northern and Southern hemispheres and no daylight saving in Japan.

 

In April I always go for early trains - say 6 to 7 am departures or earlier if possible - as it is is daylight from early in the morning, and then get back to the hotel early to rest - say 6 to 7 pm - as going dark if not already dark. It is a way to stll get 12 hours sightseeing but may not be what you are used to especially if suffering jet lag.

 

I use an Islamic website for prayers that gives sun rise / sun set in every town in the world for every date so as to preplan the times of trains I need to be on for each place I want to go to so as to be there in the daylight.

[railsquid]

In Japan we are planning on relying on Toyoko Inn hotels (at least for the main cities where they have a presence) and having them make reservations for the next one down the line (what do you old Japan hands think?)

 

Back in the day, when I still qualified for rail passes, I found Toyoko Inns pretty useful. However they might not be willing to make reservations at other Toyoko Inns in your behalf; I remember arriving in Kanazawa, where the station is a long way from the central area, and enquiring at the Toyoko Inn by the station whether they could ask the one nearer the center if they had rooms available but they refused to do that, however they did point me at the free internet terminal in the lobby where I could use the online reservations. BTW, the Toyoko Inn in the center of Kanazawa is quite nice, opposite a leafy park and convenient for the sights.

 

I also used Superhotel a few times, they also have an English website now: http://www.superhoteljapan.com/en/

 

Slightly OT, but one of the most interesting places I ever stayed was in a 3-tatami room in a hostel near Shin-Imaynomiya station in Osaka in 2002. Since then the area has apparently gone all international backpackery, but back then it was still very day-laborer orientated and down-to-earth.

[railsquid]

In April I always go for early trains - say 6 to 7 am departures or earlier if possible - as it is is daylight from early in the morning, and then get back to the hotel early to rest - say 6 to 7 pm - as going dark if not already dark. It is a way to stll get 12 hours sightseeing but may not be what you are used to especially if suffering jet lag.

 

Good advice, that's basically what I used to do. Even based in Tokyo, with a rail pass and a very early start you can get a lot of travel out of a day trip.

[miyakoji]

Slightly OT, but one of the most interesting places I ever stayed was in a 3-tatami room in a hostel near Shin-Imaynomiya station in Osaka in 2002. Since then the area has apparently gone all international backpackery, but back then it was still very day-laborer orientated and down-to-earth.

Shin-Imamiya, one stop west of Tennoji on the loop.  This was still an area for day laborers the last time I saw it in 2007, and with the work/support office being there (right across the street from the station), I think it probably still is and always will be. 

[westfalen]

I'm staying at Toyoko Inns on my trip coming up in a weeks time and have done on my last two trips that I organised myself.  I make all the reservations online before leaving but if you have to do any while in Japan it may be easier to go online there as well as many of the hotel clerks do not speak English.  I've always found the rooms and service good and they all have free wifi internet in the rooms, breakfast is usually basic japanese style but varies from hotel to hotel, the best I've found was at the Narita Airport Toyoko Inn.

[bikkuri bahn]

Shin-Imamiya, one stop west of Tennoji on the loop.  This was still an area for day laborers...

Indeed.  This summer, observed numerous homeless sprawled sleeping on the sidewalk, as seen from a Nankai train.  Shades of skid row (LA) or tenderloin (SF)- safer than those places though, I reckon.

 

 

breakfast is usually basic japanese style but varies from hotel to hotel, the best I've found was at the Narita Airport Toyoko Inn.

Yes. Quality of breakfast is highly variable- worst being the central Tokyo locations, usually a pitiful cold butter roll and coffee/tea only- the equivalent of a cheap US motel "continental breakfast".  The ones in the regional cities tend to have good breakfasts- both Japanese and Western style, with daily special dishes (typically a unique one to that region) and a toaster oven for guest use- this is important for me, as I like to have warm bread.

[Ochanomizu]

Hello Mr Nick_Burman,

 

Please allow me to provide some assistance with your impending trip to Japan.

 

Firstly, while Toyoko Inn is fine for business traveller I find many are unsuitable for female traveller.  My wife simply refuse to stay.  If you are travelling with female family members I suggest you make other arrangements.  In Kyoto, we usually stay at Citadines, Gojo: http://www2.citadines.com/en/japan/kyoto/karasuma_gojo.html

 

In Kyoto, please obtain a 2-day bus pass.  It is an excellent way to see the city.  You can purchase at Kyoto Station and be sure to get a copy of the map for each ticket you buy.  You will quickly understand the routes and learn that there is a convenient bus stop right around the corner from Citadines Gojo.

 

Of course, in Kyoto, you will want to see many temples. Here is my favourite route for northern Kyoto:

 

Bus to Daitokuji, Kinkakuji and Ryoanji Temples.  If you leave your hotel at 8:00am you should be done by about noon.  Then walk downhill to Keifuku Arashiyama Line and take the train West (to your right) all the way to Arashiyama Station.  You should arrive about 1:00pm. When you leave the station go upstairs to the right and enjoy lunch at the restaurant.  Price is quite reasonable.  Then, cross the road and visit Tenryuji Temple.  Favourite of my wife.  Enjoy the walk all the way to the back gate on the north side.  Exit here and enjoy walk through the beautiful bamboo forest.  When you come to the first major intersection, turn right and continue straight.  This is a nice relaxing way to spend your afternoon.  You will return to the main road.  Turn left, then right and walk two block to JR Saga Arashiyama Station for a quick trip back to centre of Kyoto.  This is full day trip.

 

I can give you many other idea for Kyoto, Nara and Osaka.  I recommend 5-7 days in this area.  There are many different things to see.

[bikkuri bahn]

Firstly, while Toyoko Inn is fine for business traveller I find many are unsuitable for female traveller.  My wife simply refuse to stay.

「なぜかしら？」　

Anyway, the quality can be variable in terms of atmosphere and room size. I reckon the more central, blue collar locations such as Ikebukuro Nishi Guchi may be more focused on the budget traveller, as well as tourists from Asia, which may offend the sensibilites of some refined Japanese ladies.  Also, perhaps a large group of businessmen/construction workers or a high school/university sports club staying at the hotel may make your stay a bit less pleasant as far as shared occasions like breakfast time.  I find Toyoko Inn a rank above hostels and budget American motel chains like Travelodge or Motel 6, perhaps equal to a chain like Ibis.  Something to take into consideration.

[westfalen]

「なぜかしら？」　

Anyway, the quality can be variable in terms of atmosphere and room size. I reckon the more central, blue collar locations such as Ikebukuro Nishi Guchi may be more focused on the budget traveller, as well as tourists from Asia, which may offend the sensibilites of some refined Japanese ladies.  Also, perhaps a large group of businessmen/construction workers or a high school/university sports club staying at the hotel may make your stay a bit less pleasant as far as shared occasions like breakfast time.  I find Toyoko Inn a rank above hostels and budget American motel chains like Travelodge or Motel 6, perhaps equal to a chain like Ibis.  Something to take into consideration.

I agree, after a few weeks staying at Motel 6 and Super 8 in the U.S. last year with their varying quality and sometimes indifferent management and staff I was glad to get back to Toyoko Inns when I went to Japan later in the year.  The size of the room doesn't really worry me anyway, I don't go on holidays to sit in a room so as long as there is a comfortable bed and a hot shower/bath, and these days free wifi (most of your more upmarket hotels aimed at tourists charge extra for that).

[Nick_Burman]

「なぜかしら？」　

 perhaps equal to a chain like Ibis.

 

I've staid in Ibis hotels before. Essentially we just need a comfortable place to "pull the plug" at night.

 

Cheers NB

[Nick_Burman]

Hello Mr Nick_Burman,

 

Please allow me to provide some assistance with your impending trip to Japan.

 

Firstly, while Toyoko Inn is fine for business traveller I find many are unsuitable for female traveller.  My wife simply refuse to stay.  If you are travelling with female family members I suggest you make other arrangements.  In Kyoto, we usually stay at Citadines, Gojo: http://www2.citadines.com/en/japan/kyoto/karasuma_gojo.html

 

In Kyoto, please obtain a 2-day bus pass.  It is an excellent way to see the city.  You can purchase at Kyoto Station and be sure to get a copy of the map for each ticket you buy.  You will quickly understand the routes and learn that there is a convenient bus stop right around the corner from Citadines Gojo.

 

Of course, in Kyoto, you will want to see many temples. Here is my favourite route for northern Kyoto:

 

Bus to Daitokuji, Kinkakuji and Ryoanji Temples.  If you leave your hotel at 8:00am you should be done by about noon.  Then walk downhill to Keifuku Arashiyama Line and take the train West (to your right) all the way to Arashiyama Station.  You should arrive about 1:00pm. When you leave the station go upstairs to the right and enjoy lunch at the restaurant.  Price is quite reasonable.  Then, cross the road and visit Tenryuji Temple.  Favourite of my wife.  Enjoy the walk all the way to the back gate on the north side.  Exit here and enjoy walk through the beautiful bamboo forest.  When you come to the first major intersection, turn right and continue straight.  This is a nice relaxing way to spend your afternoon.  You will return to the main road.  Turn left, then right and walk two block to JR Saga Arashiyama Station for a quick trip back to centre of Kyoto.  This is full day trip.

 

I can give you many other idea for Kyoto, Nara and Osaka.  I recommend 5-7 days in this area.  There are many different things to see.

 

Ochanomizu-san,

 

I like the impending...6 months and counting, lots of days to while away before I can even start. It actually feels as it is going to be tomorrow!

 

Anyway, thanks for the great advice. I looked into Citadines, when I first saw that it was a serviced apartment my hair stood on end - our travel agent suggested a couple of such places in the UK where a week's stay would have set us back US$1,500.00...insane! I pulled the emergency cord immediately, went searching in the Internet and found much more reasonable rates elsewhere. Back to Japan...I looked at the Citadines Gojo and the basic rate was something around JPY8000, perfectly acceptable when split between 2 people. I'll bookmark it and take it into account. Any more accommodation suggestions will be welcome.

 

Does Kyoto have a transport pass which covers other modes than just the buses?

 

 

Cheers NB

Edited November 21, 2013 by Nick_Burman

[Nick_Burman]

 I reckon the more central, blue collar locations such as Ikebukuro Nishi Guchi may be more focused on the budget traveller, as well as tourists from Asia, which may offend the sensibilites of some refined Japanese ladies.

 

BB,

 

Forgot to ask, in Tokyo, what neighbourhood would you suggest for staying?

 

Cheers NB

[westfalen]

The Kansai Thru Pass covers buses in Kyoto and anywhere in the coloured area of the map.  I made good use of one during a few days in Osaka in 2011, covers buses, subways and private railways but not JR.

http://www.surutto.com/images/ticket/kansai_thru_pass/english/en_map.pdf

[Ochanomizu]

「なぜかしら？」　

 

Because refined Japanese women can be fussy! 

[Ochanomizu]

Does Kyoto have a transport pass which covers other modes than just the buses?

 

 

Cheers NB

 

Hello Mr Nick_Burman,

 

Please allow me to provide further assistance with your trip to Kyoto.

 

I forgot to mention, you can get Kyoto Sightseeing Pass.  1 Day = ¥1200.  2 Day = ¥2000.  It includes all City Bus and subway line.  Unlimited use.  Please be careful.  There are other similar passes that work like credit card.  When you use the credit you have to buy another card.  The Kyoto Sightseeing Pass is unlimited use.  But I must warn you about that too.  From my memory, it works on calendar day, so it is best to buy first thing in the morning.

 

Next, I must recommend Imekoji Steam Museum.  My opinion: the best in Japan.  http://www.mtm.or.jp/uslm/eng/

 

Next, I suggest day trip north of Kyoto to Kurama and Mt Hieizan. http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3933.html  Please be sure to depart your hotel by 8:00am.  Please take the Eizan Railway to Kurama (so sorry, it is not covered by the Kyoto Sightseeing Pass).  The trip itself is quite enjoyable, relaxing and not crowded.  Trains are single or two-car.  Then enjoy the temple grounds in the mountains.  Then take Eizan back to Takaragaike and change for Yasehieizanguchi.  Then walk left, and across the bridge over the river and take the cable car. 

 

http://www.panoramio.com/photo_explorer#user=4783757&with_photo_id=46012118&order=date_desc

 

http://www.panoramio.com/photo/46063330?source=wapi&referrer=kh.google.com

 

 

I must warn you to be at the cable car 10 minutes before departure, or you may need to wait 30 minutes for the next one.  Then take the ropeway (it is easy to find) up to Hieizan. http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3911.html  Then walk down past the botanical gardens and take the bus.  We usually continue through the tunnel to the restaurant for lunch.  Then take the bus back to Enryakuji Temple.  It is a 10 minute walk to the Sakamoto cable-car. 

 

http://www.panoramio.com/photo/35174610?source=wapi&referrer=kh.google.com

 

At the bottom of the cable-car there is a connecting bus that will take you to JR Hieizansakamoto Station.  The train back to Kyoto is quite scenic.  You must understand that this trip requires a full day.  You will return to Kyoto around 5:00pm if you start around 8:00am.  It is an excellent mix of interesting train journeys and sightseeing and a pleasant escape from the crowds.

[JR 500系]

This is a great thread! I have learnt much about places to go and places to stay in a budget or spurging ~ Very nice!

 

Haven't been posting in a while, but i would like to share the Kyoto bus map which i got 'somewhere' (i really cant remember where i got this) during my planning for my Japan in 2012. It shows very extensively the routes of each bus and the places of interest to visit. I bought the one day pass and using this map i had no problems at all navigating myself.. It was really easy to use and fun! 

 

Hope that helps!

Kyoto City Bus Map.pdf

[Nick_Burman]

This is a great thread! I have learnt much about places to go and places to stay in a budget or spurging ~ Very nice!

 

Haven't been posting in a while, but i would like to share the Kyoto bus map which i got 'somewhere' (i really cant remember where i got this) during my planning for my Japan in 2012. It shows very extensively the routes of each bus and the places of interest to visit. I bought the one day pass and using this map i had no problems at all navigating myself.. It was really easy to use and fun! 

 

Hope that helps!

 

Thanks, that's neat.

 

Continuing my question session...food. My mother is vegetarian (but not vegan), what would there be for her? She hates anything soy-based, so no tofu (and no natto, but then even I'll refrain from it!!!!). I can think of veg tempura, okonomiyaki with veg filling, anything else?

 

Cheers NB

[cteno4]

look for Buddhist Shojin restaurants. they have a wide variety of veggie stuff. sometimes it comes with literally dozens of different little bits of different things on the plate, can be quite amazing! theres was a great one about 2 blocks from kyoto station.

 

other ideas

 

http://www.vegietokyo.com/info4vegie/articles/article2.htmlhttp://www.vegietokyo.com/info4vegie/articles/article2.html

 

http://www.kyotoguide.com/ver2/thismonth/vege10.html

 

http://www.neverendingvoyage.com/vegetarian-survival-guide-to-japan/

 

cheers

 

jeff

[Ochanomizu]

Hello Mr Nick Burman,

 

Please allow me to provide further assistance with your mother's dining requirements.

 

In the large shopping malls you will find various cuisines offering vegetarian dishes, such as Thai, Chinese, Indian and Italian.  You will also find a grand assortment of pastry and cake shops.  So long as your mother eats eggs, and does not require halal food, you should have little problem.

[Nick_Burman]

Hello Mr Nick Burman,

 

Please allow me to provide further assistance with your mother's dining requirements.

 

In the large shopping malls you will find various cuisines offering vegetarian dishes, such as Thai, Chinese, Indian and Italian.  You will also find a grand assortment of pastry and cake shops.  So long as your mother eats eggs, and does not require halal food, you should have little problem.

 

Thanks Ochanomizu. A friend of mine who has been to JP 14 times (!) told me about the shopping malls/department stores and their food courts. However I would like my mother to be also able to enjoy Japanese cuisine while we are on our trip.

 

Cheers NB