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My T track like modular .... started


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Well started with this..... 

well got 2 pieces of plywood for

modules started with this .... Kato concrete tie

double track and Kato 2 stall engine shed


the plan for first one





science i have local stores to use ( 100yen

store - LOL )




found a NOTCH grass powder thing on sale and looks nice .... also used Tomix

ground cover and found a woodland scenic ( here Kato by woodland scenics ) green stuff LOL and not much of choice for tunnel so got Japanese style

kato senetery (removable..... )




put some wood like cover on the sides ...






all need to finish is

put a lights inside the shed, put some kind of railing on the dock thing ...








the second module gonna try to change a little .... and was thinking of making a

main line and 4-5 track yard / staging for 4-5 of my metrolink / coaster trains...... will see when i get back

dont want to carry more than one module ( on the plane LOL ) ....

the overhead power looks nice but is a pita ..... ( even for looks )

already have a plan of what gonna do with it ....... ( on this module its gonna stay as it is ....... ( added the transformers by the tunnel and power going to the shed ....... )


well found some #6 turnouts for under $9 a piece so got 2 left hands and one right hand (used), seemed like a deal so got them and working on this.....




dont have much experience with turnouts probably #4's would work better for double track spacing ......

will that work good ( need any gaps / more power feeders ? ) dont have a power supply with me to test at the moment ..... bit of help would be useful


not worrying about the bigger spacing after turnouts ( gonna connect to the shed module...... maybe more will see ....

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Martijn Meerts

That's looking really good :) I love the weathering on the shed as well.


(and DD51's are great ;))

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That's looking really good :) I love the weathering on the shed as well.


(and DD51's are great ;))


the watering is not permanent yet exept for roof ( which i used a paint marker lol) and the rest is a just kids pastels....

science im at my in-laws till end of august got to work with what i can get my hands on ..... ( meaning cheap and not to bring / carry to much on plane with :)   )


need to find another cheap dd51 for dual header for the blue sleeping train  :)  (can alternate between dd51's

and electrics........ )



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hey really nice! fun start to your modular system!


you can do wonderful things with cheap supplies, they can give you some very interesting textures and effects. it actually probably great you had this opportunity to be forced to experiment with a bunch of things like this, i bet you can share a few interesting little tidbits from this with us all!


yes the #6 are not built for the 33mm spacing geometry, but with some mods it can work. the #4's can be cranky with some stock picking the points on them in some situations, its really varied in folks experiences. you can tune them up quite well by notching a bit into the rails for the point blades to nest into and this helps with the point picking. over the years we just got rid of them on the jrm layout as they were more trouble than they were worth. #6s seem more robust with time as well and also with handling if you are pulling up the track a lot.


keep the picts coming, great to see it come alive!



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Kato "#4" (481mm radius) turnouts would work better for the standard 33mm track spacing, but unfortunately Kato offers no corresponding crossover that would also work with a 33mm spacing, so you are stuck chopping up Unitrack to fit, as you have done. This is a major "quirk" in the design of the Unitrack system. The alternative is to swing one track out a bit to achieve 49.5mm spacing through the turnouts and crossing, then swing it back in to 33mm before you reach the end of the module.


Rich K.

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so you are stuck chopping up Unitrack to fit, as you have done.


i guess chopping the #6 it will be....  gonna try and get more 6's

and work it out..... ...... should have tried the tomix turnouts.....

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Looking at the last photo of your initial post above, I thought you had already solved your problem by simply cutting up the crossover, and did not have to cut the outer "#6" turnout. Is there something I am misunderstanding?


Rich K.

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