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What did you order or the post deliver? (HO and other scales)


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marknewton
On 4/18/2021 at 10:54 PM, Kamome said:

On the subject of 9600s, I brought this used one from a second hand Book Off store today for a pretty acceptable price. As a bonus, parts were fitted very well and it had also been crewed with some Kato drivers...I must mention @marknewtonfor providing me with a lot of helpful information on purchasing my first Tenshodo locomotive. Thanks for all your help, Mark.

 

You're very welcome, Kamome, happy to help. Your 9600 looks lovely, I'm glad you managed to get one.

(I've been a bit slow in catching up on recent posts, so I apologise for taking so long to reply. 🙄)

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

 

 

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marknewton

The book and some of the magazines I mentioned. All have very detailed and comprehensive structure scratchbuilding articles.


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Cheers,

 

Mark.

 

 

 

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Martijn Meerts
5 hours ago, marknewton said:


I don't know about plastic, Martijn. Most of the model is die-cast metal. 😉

 

It sounds a lot better in person than it does on the video.

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

 

 

 

 

Oh, I didn't mean to suggest the loco is plastic or anything. It's just that the sound is very much like the typical H0 sounds coming from a speaker that's usually in a plastic speaker box. Actually, my 0-scale v100 loco has that same plastic-y sound.

 

I have installed a sound decoder in an H0 train before, but I opted to my make own speaker box using thin sheets of MDF. I made a design based on some of the bigger HiFi speakers. That did help a lot with the sound quality, and it added some bass too, since I added a bass port in the front. It was a ton of work, and somewhat of an experiment, so it's likely not worth trying to do that if you have a lot of sounds, and it does require a bit of extra space which might not be available at all.

 

Also, I am quite picky when it comes to sound quality, which really doesn't help with sound in model trains 😄

 

 

 

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al camino

Postman rang today

My highlight of the year came the Odakyu Type 3100 and some items like the Aclass WAMU 80000 and some KATO bellows to improve my series 14 coaches.

The bellows improve the appearance of SUHAFU14 face to face of in between the consist.

At least when you attach the close coupler (without tank) instead of the usual Kadee like one.

Need to order some spare close couplers as 2 of my OHA14 now are without coupler 🙂

 

The Odakyu looks really nice.

 

The really ugly thing was: one drawbar was broken.

Also some details are not perfect and to my opinion should not happen with this kind of higher priced item.

The window inserts are glued with too much liquid adhesive of high viscosity.

Good visible residue of glue (solvent!) can be seen on a lot of the windows.

My coach #4 has nearly all windows affected.

 

All other obstruction can be fixed here (even if it should not be so).

A bent pantograph (original in box) and a loose screw ask for some service.

Need to check all screws for proper fit.

 

I already asked for a replacing drawbar and some spare windows to go into the sheels with less glue (by myself).

Don't want to ship the train back to Japan - to expensive, too dangerous to have damage or loss.

 

I have also to check the wiring inside the train.

Some of wheel pickup cables are sticking out the soft rubber bellows, some are routed as in image below (left and right different).

I have to find out the design idea by ENDO and place the cables as planned. Far East assembly lines were not soo accurate.

The train runs fine, smooth and noiseless.

Trainname headmark is far too bright.

Flicker free lights!

But you have to either learn to drive the train or rewire your layout.

Track pickup is done on ALL wheels (reason for flicker free performance).

Sad that there is again no lettering on the cars.

I hoped the coach numers were printed.

Now it will be again this cut paper sticker (ugly in my opinion).

WAMU80000 & Odakyu Type 3100.JPG

14-15 & 24-25 bellows.JPG

SUHAFU14-SUHAFU14.JPG

Coach#11-detail.JPG

Coach#4.JPG

Window with residue.JPG

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al camino
On 6/9/2021 at 4:41 PM, Martijn Meerts said:

It really depends on how comfortable you are with soldering. I don’t think this kit is particularly difficult, but it just has lots of parts. All the brass and nickel silver bits shouldn’t be an issue to solder, the cast parts can be difficult if they’re quite large.

 

Other than that, some cast parts will be pewter or similar, which requires low temp solder since pewter has a lower melting point than regular solder. 
 

World Kougei often also includes stainless steel parts for some of the fine detail, that needs special flux to be able to solder it. 
 

Building your own trains, even from a kit, is fun though and feels great when you see them run for the first time, but you might want to give some cheaper kits a try first. You could still order this kit of course, and start building once you feel comfortable with it, most of my kits I’ve had for several years before starting them. 
 

 

Thanks for reply. I had solderd brass and pewter kits year ago. Had been some RaiMo (BR 98 Glaskasten & Urglaskasten, finished and painted) as well as I had hands and tools on a NSWGR class AD 60 by model loco (not finished but not spoilt). So I know i will make it. But when. It is not only the class AD 60 waiting for the attic shops. I habe to sleep some more nights before either <click> or reservation is closed.

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Martijn Meerts

Yeah, it's definitely not something you buy without thinking about it a lot first. They are quite expensive kits, and take many hours to build.

 

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al camino
On 6/10/2021 at 8:35 PM, Martijn Meerts said:

Yeah, it's definitely not something you buy without thinking about it a lot first. They are quite expensive kits, and take many hours to build.

 

Oh yeah. And the hours left can be counted.

Not that I am in a bad condition but the much projects stored to be touched will probably need more than one retirement (If government don't increase the starting age year for year).

I will take some nights to think about - without a glass of wine.

But the engine has something specific.

Would be a great co to my 2D2 E540 "femme enceinte" ex P.O.Midi (SNCF).

IMGP6385.JPG

Edited by al camino
added loco number and the owner id
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al camino

Because I am not sure if I will ever get a spare drawbar I decided to do some repair.

Usual plastic adhesive did not work as well as some solvents didn't.

Some super glue did the work after proper cleaning.

But a 1 mm thick glueing area will probably not survive for long.

A 1x2 mm brass with a small hook shall do it.

The hook was made by soldering on a 1x1x2 mm piece of brass.

Soldering worked well.

I did not forget how to do (It had been a long time since last time soldering brass on models).

Was a good training for my brass kits and maybe first part of a decision for the EF55 1.

Then glued the brass to the drawbar.

Tomorrow it will get a compound glue reinforcement where the blue arrow points to.

This should take the weight of the coach leaning on the piece of brass.

 

I also checked all screws: 80% needed some tightening (around 45° turns).

No wonder a loose screw was in the Box.

And a small piece of paper went between LED and the headmark to dim it to headlight brightness.

Yes - another resistor would be the engineers solution but cutting a paper was easier than fiddling with the SMD grain.

IMGP6389.JPG

IMGP6391.JPG

IMGP6392.JPG

IMGP6393.JPG

IMGP6397.JPG

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Nice fixes! 
 

on those slick/soft plastics like polyethylene you can also try the new two part CA glues. You apply the one component to one side (like a wet felt tipped marker) and let dry well and then CA (I think maybe regular CA, smells and acts like it) to the other part and then put the parts together. Fuses pretty quickly and very strongly. I’m guessing the one acts as some primer and/or accelerator and when the CA comes in contact it really fuses on pe well. I’ve tried alot of adhesives on these odd plastics like pe and pp and nothing has held well until this stuff. It does not feel like regular CA accelerator.

 

cheers,

 

jeff

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al camino
10 hours ago, cteno4 said:

Nice fixes! 
 

on those slick/soft plastics like polyethylene you can also try the new two part CA glues. You apply the one component to one side (like a wet felt tipped marker) and let dry well and then CA (I think maybe regular CA, smells and acts like it) to the other part and then put the parts together. Fuses pretty quickly and very strongly. I’m guessing the one acts as some primer and/or accelerator and when the CA comes in contact it really fuses on pe well. I’ve tried alot of adhesives on these odd plastics like pe and pp and nothing has held well until this stuff. It does not feel like regular CA accelerator.

 

cheers,

 

jeff

Thanks Jeff

 

Now to find out how this stuff is named here in Germany.

Do you have a brand name in US?

 

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roadstar_na6
2 hours ago, al camino said:

Now to find out how this stuff is named here in Germany.


CA is Sekundenkleber, UHU seems to make a "Blitzschnell Plastik" glue with a pen and Pattex has "Plastix" on offer with glue and a pen.

Edited by roadstar_na6
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Hey @al camino

 

Im very interested in your recent acquisition, your Odakyu 3100.

 

Would you say it was a good purchase or have you been slightly put off by the build quality? I guess I would have expected that Endo would not allow glueing issues like this that would frost the windows or the fact that you have a broken drawbar. I know it’s a plastic model but it’s Endo after all. I hope they come through for you and can supply you with all the replacement parts you need.

 

It may be the camera not doing the model justice but the body looks very plasticky, almost toy-like in your image.

 

How is the finish on the model?

Its a beautiful train but i’d be interested in your observations of the paint finish and details of the model.

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al camino
3 hours ago, roadstar_na6 said:


CA is Sekundenkleber, UHU seems to make a "Blitzschnell Plastik" glue with a pen and Pattex has "Plastix" on offer with glue and a pen.

Yes. CA = Cyano Acrylat.

For the drawbar I used Pattex gel, right after opening.

I once got a bottle of Plastruct Plastic Weld.

This made nearly every thing - except the PE and PP stuff.

This drawbar did not show any reaction on all what I go here.

Small drop on an important place and check what happens after a time.

All test could be removed without any trace.

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al camino
1 hour ago, Kamome said:

Hey @al camino

 

Im very interested in your recent acquisition, your Odakyu 3100.

 

Would you say it was a good purchase or have you been slightly put off by the build quality? I guess I would have expected that Endo would not allow glueing issues like this that would frost the windows or the fact that you have a broken drawbar. I know it’s a plastic model but it’s Endo after all. I hope they come through for you and can supply you with all the replacement parts you need.

 

It may be the camera not doing the model justice but the body looks very plasticky, almost toy-like in your image.

 

How is the finish on the model?

Its a beautiful train but i’d be interested in your observations of the paint finish and details of the model.

Dia duit!

 

please follow separated topic

This becomes too specific for this topic.

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Martijn Meerts

All the Loctite stuff should be easy to get in Germany, considering Loctite is owned by Henkel. Loctite can be quite expensive though, but especially their thread locks are better than anything else I've come across.

 

As for the kit, if you've built them before, there's no reason this one would cause issues. World Kougei kits go together really well for the most part. The most difficult part of building them is making sure you work in the correct order. The manual doesn't really tell you in which order to solder things, so definitely do some test fitting. I've had to de-solder parts a couple of times, and that's a major pain

 

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al camino
On 6/14/2021 at 1:41 PM, Martijn Meerts said:

All the Loctite stuff should be easy to get in Germany, considering Loctite is owned by Henkel. Loctite can be quite expensive though, but especially their thread locks are better than anything else I've come across.

 

As for the kit, if you've built them before, there's no reason this one would cause issues. World Kougei kits go together really well for the most part. The most difficult part of building them is making sure you work in the correct order. The manual doesn't really tell you in which order to solder things, so definitely do some test fitting. I've had to de-solder parts a couple of times, and that's a major pain

 

Oh yes. I know loctite very well. A french customer once used loctite to lubricate a gauge 1 swiss croco. In French "loco" and on the red bottle "loc..." plus greasy feeling green liquid made him thinking this is the right stuff. We could remove all axles, rods, gears from the frame as one part. Good stuff!

 

Many thanks for the hint of World Kougei assembly instructions regarding correct order. I usually depend on my 3-dimensional imagination capabilities to notice these obstructions. But noone is perfect. With your hint I double check all steps. I'll able to use this hint for training on 6 freight car kits before spoiling the EF55 1 (not yet reserved, but ...). Thank you again!

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Ouch! we’re you able to save it? I’m guessing soaking in acetone may do it but do in plastic bits…
 

I almost never use the red unless I never want the thing to come apart for sure! Blue works great, never had a bolt wiggle loose with it and usually a couple of taps and a quick turn and it pops loose.

 

jeff

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al camino
13 hours ago, cteno4 said:

Ouch! we’re you able to save it? I’m guessing soaking in acetone may do it but do in plastic bits…
 

I almost never use the red unless I never want the thing to come apart for sure! Blue works great, never had a bolt wiggle loose with it and usually a couple of taps and a quick turn and it pops loose.

 

jeff

We had no chance to save. It was gauge 1 Märklin material, lot of metal, some plastic and painting. We would have to heat it up until loctite became fluid again but then the plastic insulation would be harmed and probably the paint also. Then cleaning the material from loctite (think of all the brass bearings perfectly glued).

We just removed the loctite residues in gearbox/chassis that had been quite oily and thanks to the bearings not glued.

We had to replace all gears and wheelsets incl. the motor with attached worm.

But the rods and the motor had been worn out already (driving 8 hours daily in "Belgique en miniature" parc de Beloeil around 1990).

The green Loctite was necesary to fix the bolts of the rods for permanent usage without good service. The personnel were just caring for the gate, entry fee and to keep the garden clean. Technical service was more or less putting the rolling stock on track in the morning and collect the remaining *) rolling stock in the evening to store away for the night after a few drops of oil sometimes (usually when trains stalled on the track). *) = some items found new owners sometimes.

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Martijn Meerts
On 6/17/2021 at 4:39 PM, al camino said:

Oh yes. I know loctite very well. A french customer once used loctite to lubricate a gauge 1 swiss croco. In French "loco" and on the red bottle "loc..." plus greasy feeling green liquid made him thinking this is the right stuff. We could remove all axles, rods, gears from the frame as one part. Good stuff!

 

Many thanks for the hint of World Kougei assembly instructions regarding correct order. I usually depend on my 3-dimensional imagination capabilities to notice these obstructions. But noone is perfect. With your hint I double check all steps. I'll able to use this hint for training on 6 freight car kits before spoiling the EF55 1 (not yet reserved, but ...). Thank you again!

 

Ouch, that's really a shame. But it should also be fairly obvious Loctite isn't a lubricant. Then again, I used the thread locker a lot when I was still a mechanic, so I knew about the stuff.

 

For the kits I'm building, I've noticed I also need Loctite. On my Hokutan #2, most the screws holding the whole drive system in place came loose after some test running. I went with some purple Loctite due to the really small size of the screws. Of course, I had to order it from Germany, because apparently in the Netherlands they don't know anything other than red Loctite exists o.O

 

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52 minutes ago, Martijn Meerts said:

Of course, I had to order it from Germany, because apparently in the Netherlands they don't know anything other than red Loctite exists o.O


the Dutch just figure they put it together so well they can just use the red loctite and never need to take it apart! 😜 
 

The blue generally has worked well on all the big stuff in the shop, even adjustment screws that are not tightened, I only had one miter adjustment that would come loose eventually with blue so I finally used some red on it and got it adjusted well before set and it’s kept spot on ever since, but I don’t want to think of getting it out… for little stuff the blue has always held and I use it sparingly on tiny screws.

 

jeff

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Martijn Meerts

Arrived late last week, but due to things going on I wasn't able to post about it earlier.

 

The Yubari Railways Type 11 steam locomotive kit from Modellwagen Spezialkräfte that I managed to get from Yahoo Auctions Japan (with a little help ... ) It arrived very well packaged, and it looks far newer than it actually is (it's a kit from 1998)

 

Zenmarket did a great job also repackaging the parts inside the box, so it was filled with bubble wrap so the parts couldn't move inside the box at all. I did a quick inspection and it looks like it might be a complete kit (which again is quite interesting considering it's age). It does look like some parts at least were taken out of the bags and then repackaged, since there are some finger prints on them. This could also come from the person who originally packaged it at Modellwagen, but you'd expect them to wear gloves or something in order not to leave fingerprints.

 

Either way, an interesting kit, there's a giant motor in the tender, with a driveshaft going into the loco. Inside the loco there's a giant flywheel attached to the axle coming from the motor. Quality of the parts are definitely on par with World Kougei and IMON, building instructions are much better than what I've seen from both World Kougei and IMON so far. 

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-modellwagen-yubari-type11-001-box.jpg

 

The box, definitely doesn't look like it's from 1998 🙂

 

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-modellwagen-yubari-type11-002-parts.jpg

 

The parts in their bags. Please excuse the dust on the keyboard and desk, I have renovations going on in the house, and even if I clean everything every 15 minutes, it'll just instantly be dusty again.

 

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Martijn Meerts
2 minutes ago, cteno4 said:


the Dutch just figure they put it together so well they can just use the red loctite and never need to take it apart! 😜 
 

The blue generally has worked well on all the big stuff in the shop, even adjustment screws that are not tightened, I only had one miter adjustment that would come loose eventually with blue so I finally used some red on it and got it adjusted well before set and it’s kept spot on ever since, but I don’t want to think of getting it out… for little stuff the blue has always held and I use it sparingly on tiny screws.

 

jeff

 

I used Tamiya blue on my Tamiya RC tank, but those screws are a lot bigger than on the train kits. Screws are mostly M1.4, 2 to 4mm long. Some are even M1.2, and for the drive rods it can be M1.0. I think if you use blue on those, you're likely to destroy the heads on them 🙂

 

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I have just discovered the dangers of Models Imon’s extensive selection of add on parts. Wire hand rails, destination boards and updated parts for models missing certain features from small companies like: 

 

Bona Fide

Revolution Factory

Moriya Studio

Fuji Parts

Pancake Container

 

I’m going to need to reign myself in but one of my first ports of call will be a cooler duct set for the Kato HO JRF EF65-2000 which blatantly missed this detail. I may also get some metal number plates for it too.

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