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What did you order or the post deliver? (HO and other scales)


bikkuri bahn

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22 hours ago, GDorsett said:

I'd like to get some more WaMus, myself. Currently up to 14 with a mixture of 280000 and 80000

can run Wams at the back of a "small" KoKi train, right? 

You can.

 

One image on http://www22.tok2.com/home/cttmovie/ef60/ef60.html there is one really good picture of train with KOKI and WAMU

http://www22.tok2.com/home/cttmovie/ef60/ef609.jpg

 

At least one image on http://www22.tok2.com/home/cttmovie/ef59/ef59.html

shows KOKI within a consist of TORA and WAMU etc.

http://www22.tok2.com/home/cttmovie/ef59/ef592.jpg


And a KOKI within a train of WAMUs etc.

http://www22.tok2.com/home/cttmovie/df50/page_thumb7.html

 

I had seen one picture recently with a KOKIFU behind the locomotive and WAMU and TORA and tank cars trailing.

But I do not remember where on the net.

 

Edited by al camino
typos typos typos ...
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Martijn Meerts

So, now that I have my IMON 9600 kit, I found out there are a couple of specialty tools I need, which of course I can't really find anywhere. However, IMON makes them themselves as well, so I put in another order at RG-Rokko asking for various tools, as well as some optional parts for the 9600, such as 2 types of smoke deflectors and a light which I might want to add to the tender. Not sure it can be made functional easily though, as the tender doesn't appear to have any power pickup, and I don't really want to add wiring from the loco to the tender.

 

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You can add pickups fairly easily if it has a rigid tender chassis (I think the 9600s had a six wheel tender?)

 

You need some stripboard/copper clad PCB material and some thin springy brass strip or wire. Find a suitable location for the board where it'll be hidden and you can fit pickups made from the wire. Even easier with a brass model as you can solder the board to the chassis, just make sure you cut gaps in the copper cladding to avoid a short circuit.

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Martijn Meerts

The thing with these IMON models, is that they even detail the underside 😉 I'll have to look into it a bit, many 9600s didn't have a light at the rear anyway. I ordered it just in case I want to add it, and I needed to place an order for some parts and tools anyway.

 

Of course, those parts and tools have already arrived at RG-Rokko from IMON, and paid for. Should be shipping soon.

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Just received some Hokkaido Horsepower to pull the JR Hokkaido 51 series coaches.

Kato DD51 (1-701)

 

Looks like a nice model from Kato, if not a little basic. Slightly disappointed at the lack of cab detail but it’s a pretty low cost model at ¥11,000. Loads of weight to it so hopefully will be a good puller.

 

8FFB074B-C39A-44D1-9AC8-A70158EC3BA9.jpeg

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shadowtiger25
3 hours ago, Kamome said:

Just received some Hokkaido Horsepower to pull the JR Hokkaido 51 series coaches.

Kato DD51 (1-701)

 

Looks like a nice model from Kato, if not a little basic. Slightly disappointed at the lack of cab detail but it’s a pretty low cost model at ¥11,000. Loads of weight to it so hopefully will be a good puller.

 

I have 2, they"re pretty good pullers. One will, barely, pull a friction track cleaning car. You can detail the cabs with inserts you can find online like this one  https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n369599132

Edited by shadowtiger25
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8 hours ago, shadowtiger25 said:

I have 2, they"re pretty good pullers. One will, barely, pull a friction track cleaning car. You can detail the cabs with inserts you can find online like this one  https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n369599132

This would certainly be handy with the Tomix version but the Kato DD51 has no molded detail whatsoever. Weirdly their DE10 does but the DD51 has a flat deck and the 8 pin decoder socket under the cabin. I might see if I can fashion something that resembles the top of a seat and driver’s console and add a very trimmed down driver.

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1 hour ago, Kamome said:

This would certainly be handy with the Tomix version but the Kato DD51 has no molded detail whatsoever. Weirdly their DE10 does but the DD51 has a flat deck and the 8 pin decoder socket under the cabin. I might see if I can fashion something that resembles the top of a seat and driver’s console and add a very trimmed down driver.

wait, so the SMALLER locomotive has an interior but not the bigger one?

I smell some BS here...Kato is usually good about that.

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Kato's JR Kyushu DE10 is super nicely detailed on the outside, but there isn't much to see inside the cab. I forgive them because that locomotive is my quietest runner.

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9 hours ago, Sheffie said:

Kato's JR Kyushu DE10 is super nicely detailed on the outside, but there isn't much to see inside the cab. I forgive them because that locomotive is my quietest runner.

Thanks Sheffie. I too have the Kyushu DE10 which do run beautifully but I can forgive the lack of detail more in N gauge due to the size restriction. Less forgivable in HO me thinks.

 

9 hours ago, GDorsett said:

wait, so the SMALLER locomotive has an interior but not the bigger one?

I smell some BS here...Kato is usually good about that.

Yes the N gauge version essentially has more cab detail, be it very basic. It does hint at something in there though unlike the HO version.

 

 Behold some heliographs to illustrate my bewilderment!!

 

The Kato DE10 has a molded interior but the DD51 has an 8 pin decoder socket.

 

 

F46381D9-DBC4-4B82-8A02-7743E46A4C83.jpeg

0BDF1F60-1653-4CE3-87F4-B32CE1512B20.jpeg

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If I recall correctly, the molding for the kato ho DD51 is much older then that of the DE10.  I have the original version that doesnt even have the DCC socket, you had to hard wire everything if you wanted DCC.  Hopefully one day they retool it for more accuracy.

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My KATO DD51 cold area has just left customs.

Maybe it will be delivered tomorrow.

I then will be able to compare a 2019 build DD51 with one that I bought used at around 1995.

Before I found the used loco she attracted me for several years. She sat there on my boss's shelf in office.

So it is nearly a vintage tooling. 😉

 

I classify these low detailed (cab interior, under floor details etc.) models as 3 feet models.

They look really good from a distance of 3 feet. They make a good impression leading a train.

Also a full train of average to good detailled cars is as impressive as one single model which resembles every rivet, every small detail, even the invisible when placen on rails.

My collection has both - average detailed trains as well as some super detailed highlights.

 

Just my 2 cents.

Edited by al camino
added two lines of text
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My picture had to be changed.

The reason is that I just made the reservation of Endo's Odakyu 3100.

I opted for the basic set of 6 cars - the affordable solution regarding space and budget.

Now looking forward to late March 2020 - maybe to read the "delayed" note from Endo.

Edited by al camino
as usual -> typos
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Details fitted and from a distance, the Kato DD51 doesn’t look half bad. Here it is on passenger duty in Hokkaido. Some black pin washing and some weathering needed to make it look a little less red. 

 

As you’d expect from Kato it runs very nicely.

835C0C95-3AC2-45F7-863F-4A47BBE1F570.jpeg

Edited by Kamome
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shadowtiger25
On 10/3/2019 at 7:34 PM, Kamome said:

This would certainly be handy with the Tomix version but the Kato DD51 has no molded detail whatsoever. Weirdly their DE10 does but the DD51 has a flat deck and the 8 pin decoder socket under the cabin. I might see if I can fashion something that resembles the top of a seat and driver’s console and add a very trimmed down driver.

I plan on 3D printing the console and the seat 

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Martijn Meerts

Received some IMON miniature box wrenches, some tiny pre-cut bits of solder (great for small detail parts), some low temperature solder (still need to determine the temperature it melts at).

 

Also received 2 variants of smoke deflectors for my 9600, as well as a lamp for the tender, and 2 lenses for inside the lamps (I think these are generally only used when you don't light the lamps, which I might not do for the tender lamp, if I add it at all)

 

There were some items in here that I needed to continue building, so now that I have them I can go back to deciphering the building instructions 😄

 

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On 10/6/2019 at 8:46 AM, Kamome said:

Details fitted and from a distance, the Kato DD51 doesn’t look half bad. Here it is on passenger duty in Hokkaido. Some black pin washing and some weathering needed to make it look a little less red. 

 

As you’d expect from Kato it runs very nicely.

835C0C95-3AC2-45F7-863F-4A47BBE1F570.jpeg

 

I completed my DD51 and double headed it with my "vintage" DD51 from late 80ies/early 90ies.

I would have liked to remove the shell to compare the mechanical interior but I didn't manage to remove the shell.

Strange cracking sounds prevented me from continuing.

Does anyone of you have the missing hints?

IMGP5163.JPG

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The Saturday's shipment also brought 10 セラ1

It had been *bargain* at HS. I put the set into the cart after I missed the bargained Aoshima EF66 - just as consolation for me.

So I have started a kind of mass production coupler fitting.

The KATO 7-601 fit perfect in height but the gear box have to be shortened a little to fit to the coupler recess in frame.

 

sIMGP5161.JPGsIMGP5162.JPG

sIMGP5169.JPGsIMGP5168.JPGsIMGP5170.JPG

Edited by al camino
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23 hours ago, al camino said:

セラ1

The KATO 7-601 fit perfect in height but the gear box have to be shortened a little to fit to the coupler recess in frame.

Tonight I'll try to make a jig to shorten the other 16 coupler boxes.

It is a pain to fit them without any guiding help.

 

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Regarding DD51 shell removal, I found I had to unclip the two black plastic underframe details. That allows the clips holding the body on to press inwards and unhook from the chassis.

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shadowtiger25

My replacement gear finally came in after months of waiting on North West Short-line

I had them put it on the wheel-set for me as I dont have the tools to do it, and my C62-3 runs again!! 

                      New Gear                                                                                    Old Broken Gear

New Gearphoto4967627885896640614.thumb.jpg.85805f4549e7ea4df72629d50b30a6c1.jpgphoto4967627885896640613.thumb.jpg.6db05928a3cf356b92471e5b3b40f814.jpg

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On 10/9/2019 at 10:44 PM, Welshbloke said:

Regarding DD51 shell removal, I found I had to unclip the two black plastic underframe details. That allows the clips holding the body on to press inwards and unhook from the chassis.

Thanks so far

I'll try this this week.

Dealing with model trains since 1965 (first Märklin set for christmas in the age of nearly 4) I should have found this and try - shame on me 😞

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