Poll: How hard is adding DCC to a Kato "DCC Friendly" train or locomotive?

[KenS]

I was having an email conversation with Don (CaptO) about Kato's "DCC Friendly" trains, which I found a bit problematic to convert the first time I did one.  He suggested a poll might be in order, and that seems like a good idea to me.

 

Kato actually calls some of their locomotives that take drop-in decoders "DCC Friendly" also, although the phrase is most often applied to the ones that take the three separate cab/car/motor decoders.

 

So, the question is: How easy is adding DCC to a Kato "DCC Friendly" train or locomotive?

 

Meaning, is this something you find relatively simple, despite the need to unsnap power trucks or remove body shells in some cases, or a bit daunting (due to the risk of damaging the model, or whatever reason)?  Or have you had problems getting the decoder to actually work once it was in? And if you haven't converted one, but have considered it, feel free to answer in that context.

 

Edit: I forgot to mention: I've done exactly one of these (an E231) and, while there was a bit of a learning curve, my problems were basically self-inflicted (the EM13 is a bit finicky about placement though; push it in too hard and it lifts off the pickups). For the trucks, Kato recommends use of a screwdriver, but I found it easier to just use my hands: grasp the car body in one hand, trucks up, and the truck to remove between thumb and forefinger of the other, and twist them sideways. More force is needed than I'd like, but it comes off cleanly and in a repeatable manner (I ended up doing it a lot before I had that one E231 working).

[David]

The DCC locomotives looks like a bit of challenge for me, since they all involve shortening the new LEDs supplied by the decoder.

 

I haven't installed DCC in any of the EMUs, though I am targeting them in my purchases to make the transition to DCC easy. I was a bit concerned about the install (removing the components in the way) but after dealing with my E233-1000 I have the confidence that I can easily assemble and reassemble the base, trucks and cover (I also found that a lot of the DCC friendly JR East EMUs seem to be using the same exact same motor mechanism, just with different trucks and a different snap on plastic cover - but you can't buy the mechanism without the cover, so each one has a unique part number).

 

Also, maybe I should document it myself once I get a camera with a better macro, but a big stumbling block is realizing how simple it is to remove the trucks - they are not held in the center like the screwed on/push on trailer trucks, but rather there are 2 rather large tabs visible on either side once the shell is removed. If you use something like a pair of tweasers you can easily push one of the tabs in, then lift up a bit to pop the truck right off with no need for force. From there you just need to have confidence that the drive shaft won't break when you pull it out and later push it back in - make sure it's lined up properly (turn as needed until it pushs in slightly) and then apply a gentle force to push it in all the way (if the truck feels stiff the drive shaft is not fully inserted and is pushing back against the truck).

[alpineaustralia]

I find the Kato DCC friendly installations quite easy although the E3 Komachi decoder does not make contact well when installed and stops intermittently.

[westfalen]

No worse than some of the so called 'DCC friendly' American locos.

 

ie; Atlas diesels where you have to separate the frame halves, the trucks and bits of the mechanism fall out while your doing that and then the decoder doesn't contact the frame or motor contacts without a bit of solder here and there.

 

Intermountain F units where the headlight has to be soldered onto the board.

 

Walthers 0-8-0 with 8 pin plug in the tender where you couldn't fit the shell back on with a decoder plugged in.

 

The only manufacturer of US locos that has so far got it right is Fox Valley Model's GEVO with the 6 pin plug, pull off the shell, remove dummy plug, plug in decoder, replace shell - 30 seconds work.