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Bandai B-Train Shorty


Welshbloke

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kami_illy
On 5/28/2021 at 9:50 PM, ZandT said:

I think I can figure out how to put it together without the instructions

On 5/30/2021 at 8:06 PM, Dinosbacsi said:

Yes, building a Shorty is pretty self explanatory. But the reason you get different front faces and rear walls is to be able to make different cars/variations.

 

It can be a bit overwhelming when there is a lot of variations possible. Usually I check the Japanese wikipedia for the details and / or different configurations and then decide which parts to use. Also it is a good excuse to spend time on Youtube watching trains passing by 😉 Helps me to choose the right variants and which of the intermediate cars to build since i normally don't build the full consist. Doing this right now with my latest trophy, the KiHa 85. There is some options in the cars themselves and it seems like endless different combinations of how they are used together.. 

Good for sticker placement as well. 

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Dinosbacsi
9 hours ago, kami_illy said:

 

It can be a bit overwhelming when there is a lot of variations possible. Usually I check the Japanese wikipedia for the details and / or different configurations and then decide which parts to use. Also it is a good excuse to spend time on Youtube watching trains passing by 😉 Helps me to choose the right variants

Yes, last time I did the same with my EF64-0. It came with two type of fronts and two roofs, so I had to watch some pictures to see which front goes with which roof.

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Dinosbacsi

I finally got a second power unit for my trains, so now my 103 can also run around the layout.

20210618_155435.thumb.jpg.12cca03bab149c8d9c1d0d5bc23997b9.jpg

 

I didn't even know that the Bandai 3 units had different variants, but apparently they do, as this one seems to be an older model than my other one. I noticed because I started of by replacing the original couplers and I noticed that the bogeys don't come off as easily like they did with the other unit. For this I had to take off the motor first to be able to rotate the bogest 90 degree and get them off. This one also doesn't have a black plastic underside like the other one does.

 

But I'm lucky it's this "variant", as this one hold the bogey cover plates of the 103 very well, while my other power unit had too big holes on the bogeys, so the covers fell out way too easily. But this one holds them well, so it's nice.

 

Also it runs so smooth! I mean my 205's power unit also runs pretty good after I did all that axle straigstraightening and oiling, but the axle it still not perfect, which shows. But this one runs flawlessly, I love it. Makes me want to get back to my other power unit and try to straighten the axles even more.

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Andrew G

 

I'm back on the B-TRAIN wagon using 150mm wide T-TRAK length modules drawing upon the German "Johannes Modules" at: https://www.johannes-module.de/home which comes from the `original' Japanese version which has had its web page resurrected at: http://njouki.g1.xrea.com/menu.html  .

The Station is an extended TomyTec kit and the B-TRAINS are repainted into the scheme of suburban railcars used around the city of Adelaide (South Australia), see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Australian_Railways_Redhen_railcar

  

 

20210718_184657_1.thumb.jpg.b2d664573a98ccccf4f715882a7e60bd.jpg20210718_184549_1.thumb.jpg.c69a46876fb41e416291c129906044db.jpg20210718_184635_1.thumb.jpg.d346bd39e4ac7cbf0c06dea163040928.jpg20210718_184722_1.thumb.jpg.591a9880cfde5f689c19772b77d84f08.jpg20210718_184905_1.thumb.jpg.c8a048ce3af362c215db0456d5587d26.jpg

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Dinosbacsi

That's really cool, I love it. Always nice to see custom stuff like this. And I always loved the look of the Redhen cars.

 

As for me, I ordered this Kato power unit to use in my EF64.

3q9vV3n.jpg

But thing is, it's bigger around the edges than the regular plastic chassis for the locomotive, so it won't even fit under the body if the front skirts are on. Even without the front skirts, I'm still having trouble putting it under the locomotive. It goes on if I push hard enough, but then the couplers pop off and the whole body sits a bit slanted on the chassis.

 

I thought these chassis work with B Train Shorty locomotives, but then I'm going to make some modifications, I suppose? Any tips regarding this? I mean I suppose I should cut off the corners for a start, but what to do with the couplers popping off as the body's clips go in the holes?

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lukewang01

There's a small tab at each end of the black shell within the locomotive, you can cut that part off to stop it from popping out the couplers, but you also don't want to cut it too short that it wouldn't sit aligned with the power unit(Sorry for no pictures on that, I'm really far away from my trains right now).

 

I tried both ways regarding the front skirt, I had one without the front skirt and painted the front of the PU silver using an acrylic pen. For my EF510, I tired cutting the corner off of the PU so it would look better under the more curvy front skit compared with other shorty. Both ways worked fine for me, I just need to touch up the silver paint every once in a while since there weren't any clear coat over it.

IMG_5843.thumb.JPG.f09db29b453b1844c1399e79f9d72810.JPG

 

 

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Dinosbacsi

Good news, I managed to make it fit!

 

As expected, the chassis of the power unit needed to be trimmed a bit. Had to cut a 1mm or so from the two ends, but there were even some lines right there which made things easier - I wonder if it was intentional from Kato's part? Then the corners needed to be rounded off to a similar fashion as on the original display chassis, and now the body goes onto the chassis perfectly. Here on the photos it's still without the couplers on, but got it sorted later and it's all fine now.

rQbfs5e.jpg

8rXX7wL.jpg

TKQ1vUt.jpg

 

Regarding the coupler box popping off, there are two small bars right above the coupler box, under the hole where the body clips onto the chassis. These bars are there because without them there is a big gap above the coupler box and the coupler can easily jump out of it's place. And as the body goes on, the clips pushes on this bar, therefore making this bar pop off the coupler box. So it was kind of a weird situation at first. But then I relized that with the body on, this bar is not needed anymore, as the clip is already there to fill the gap, so the coupler stays in place. So all fine there as well! Replaced the original couplers with shibata style couplers, which I know aren't really prototypical to EF64-0s, as only a few EF64-1000s had shibata couplers as far as I know, but it is what it is.

 

Regarding the power unit, I have to say, I was surprised by how well it runs! It's so smooth, even though it's only 2 axles. In comparison, both of my 4-axle Bandai power units run much poorer. So I really love it.

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I really love my kato 2 axles! They run the best of everything for me although I've not been lucky enough to get my hands on Bandais yet. Just ordered a few more for my next delivery of BTrains (Hobby Search appears to have had a restock).

I think your EF64 looks great!

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