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Krackel Hopper's T-Trak Beginnings


Krackel Hopper

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Krackel Hopper

hey hey,

 

I started a thread in the fall about a little 2'x4' shelf layout I wanted to build.  Long and the short of it is that layout has been shelved (pardon the pun) for the time being.  Instead, I decided to try my hand at T-Trak.

 

Because this is my first module, I purchased a kit from T-trak.org.  Roughly $15 shipped.  I decided to go this route because 1) I live in an apartment. 2) I have no saw. 3) I wanted to make absolutely sure I had a correct module design.

 

I constructed the woodwork of the module a while back, but last night I finally started to make it a module.  I still have a ways to go in finishing this module.  The area to the front of the tracks (not pictured yet) is still bare, and there is still a fair amount of work to be done, including adding grass around the base of the tree/shed, adding a highlight flocking to the rail-side bushes so they are not a solid single color.. plus many other things..

 

Here is the start..

 

P2190007.jpg

 

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I like the challenge of working in the "standard" module depth, but I already have a number of ideas that would require me to push the depth to around the 14" mark, the max allowed depth using alternate spacing.  Also any station idea is going to require me a double/triple/quad length module to have a reasonable sized platform.

 

More photos later..

 

Jon

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Interesting.  Keep us posted.

 

Although I'm too busy on my own layout to start something new, the idea of T-track as a way to do small, focused, and detailed scenes appeals to me. So I'm very interested in seeing what others do with it.

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Krackel Hopper

hey hey,

 

A quick update..

 

My original plan was to run a wooden fence across the gray ballast / brown sand.  While test fitting, I decided it didn't feel right.  Next I attempted a row of bushes.  That too didn't seem quite right.  On a whim, I decided to use some rocks to create a rock wall.  I don't know how prototypical that would be on a small Japanese farm, but what the heck.  To help blend the wall and fence, I decided to "crumble" the wall, going with a feel that the wall is old and unmaintained, being replaced by fence as need be.

 

I also added grass around the tree/barn area.  All the grasses (except the crop) were given a dusting of yellow weeds/flowers.. dandelions maybe?  Does Japan even have dandelions?  Either way.. some yellow springtime weed..

 

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Currently I am waiting for the glue to dry on my static grass across the front strip of the module..

 

More pictures of a completed (or near-completed) module tomorrow..

 

Jon

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Krackel Hopper

hey hey,

 

I *think* my module is done..

 

Any comments/suggestions/criticisms?

 

A generic farm scene.. I didn't want to go crazy on this.  This was a test module.  I wanted to test a few scenery techniques that I'd read about and hadn't tried, and also a few ideas I had of my own.  On the flip-side, I wanted this T-trak to have enough to be interesting.

 

I was at a model RR show this weekend with a number of modular clubs having displays.  One thing I noticed (with both N and HO scales) is that everyone had at least 1 module that was very bland.  Usually an astro-turf green grass mat that was glued down around the tracks, maybe a black piece of foam glued down for a "road" across the astro-turf countryside.

 

I wanted my module to be "plain" but not bland.  A rural module that would be able to hold its own against an elaborate themed-scene (of which I have MANY ideas for) at a show.

 

P2210006.jpg

 

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With how bad it is snowing here in the mid-west (at least where I am) I will probably be looking into starting a new T-Trak module today.. or decide what the heck I am going to make for my 2nd module.  I have many 15/20 module ideas already on paper.  I just need to narrow it down.

 

Jon

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qwertyaardvark

Being able to have a completed module in one weekend is starting to get me seriously considering modules after my layout is done... all I would need now is a N/T-trak club to join :P

 

I do like the less-is-more approach and it certainly is not bland but not too cluttered; the scene comes out very well as a whole. If i may request, some higher resolution photos would do this module more justice :)

 

Out of curiosity, what comprises the 15-20 module ideas that you've got going? Looking forward to seeing more getting built ^_^

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I *think* my module is done..

 

Any comments/suggestions/criticisms?

 

I think it needs a person or two (farmers?). But it looks really good. And while I don't know if the stone wall is typical of Japan (I can't recall ever seeing a photo of a loose stone wall), it looks right for the scene to me.

 

A rural farm scene should be largely empty. There aren't going to be significant trees (arable land is scarce, and used for crops and essential buildings) or large buildings or roads. About the only thing there could be here that's missing is a river or irrigation ditch, and I don't think that's essential in a scene this small.

 

You've captured the essence of "farm" here, and I think that's what T-Trak is all about.

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Mudkip Orange

all I would need now is a N/T-trak club to join :P

 

Why the need? If you use the alternate spacing you can connect to pretty much any US club's T-trak module. Build your own turnarounds or corner pieces and you can also use it as your home layout...

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Krackel Hopper

hey hey,

 

I suppose my user name was probably a bit of a mystery.  The first train set the girlfriend and I started collecting was the Micro-Trains Hershey set.  We did not have too much trouble tracking down the other cars, but the Krackel Hopper was a little more difficult.  It was the first N-Scale Collector's car.  It does occasionally show up on Ebay.  Then I started trying to find older Japanese trains, and suddenly I realized that tracking down that Krackel Hopper was a piece of cake compared to tracking down.. well.. most anything Japanese that you didn't pre-order.. ha!

 

I agree, the scene does need people.  I also have a little hand cart that came with the Sankei farm, that will probably get parked under the tree or beside the field.  Currently I have no people, but I suppose I need to look into ordering some.  In my initial planning I tried to work a tiny stream into the mix from several different directions, but I was never happy with the result.  I kept winding up with too many focal points.  I think had I only done the house or only the field that the stream would have worked.  With a house, field and stream I felt the scene to be a little too busy.

 

I'll see about getting some slightly better resolution pictures.  My camera is nothing great, but I do only have it set on tier 2 of 4 in the resolution department.  Don't expect anything really good, but I'll see if I can squeak a little more clarity out of my point-n-shoot..

 

Jon

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Krackel Hopper

all I would need now is a N/T-trak club to join :P

 

Why the need? If you use the alternate spacing you can connect to pretty much any US club's T-trak module. Build your own turnarounds or corner pieces and you can also use it as your home layout...

 

I agree, and this is actually exactly what I am doing..

 

There is not a T-trak club where I am living, but I figure I'll make my modules and have my own little layout going before too long.  Then when I do move, if I manage to find a T-Trak club, I'll be all set..

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Krackel Hopper

Out of curiosity, what comprises the 15-20 module ideas that you've got going? Looking forward to seeing more getting built ^_^

 

I don't want to give everything away, but I have a number of station modules planned out.  I've been doing a lot of working with how to put a turnout onto a module.  I've got a module design using a turnout for a spur that will have an island platform fitting between the spur and the inside mainline.  I've also been messing with how to get the correct spacing to split the double-track mainline wide enough to handle an island platform in between.  I test fit Greenmax single-sided platforms.  Turns out, there is just enough space for the single-sided platform to sit in the front 1 1/2 inch of the module.  Also, that a double-length module will perfectly hold a 3 length Greenmax platform (1 platform is 200mm).

 

I have some bridge modules.  Nothing really to say about the track works, it's just a matter of adding a bridge.. but I have had my eye on some unique bridges..

 

Some of the themed modules...

 

A circus theme - (the girlfriend is currently collecting the Ringling Bros Micro-Trains set), Preiser has N Scale elephants, camels and show horses.  Vollmer makes a circus tent.

 

A Hershey theme - This will involve painting a variety of buildings in a Hershey's brown/sliver and/or brown/gold.  Something of a Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory fantasy..

 

A Coke theme - Still no idea what I am doing here, but I want a Coca-Cola themed module..

 

A Coast Guard theme - Still on the drawing board, but probably one of the special inside corner module pieces so I can have enough room to model a large body of water.  Add a pier, lighthouse and small base.  Maybe a USCG helicopter.. but definitely a boat or two.. even if it's only a small patrol boat.

 

An Alien theme - The European company Busch makes a "crop circle" grass mat and they also have a UFO kit, complete with TV news crew and little green men figures!  heh..

 

Most of the trains I have are painted trains, and I find the idea of creating a themed module to surround a themed train extremely fun.  Between stations and different themed modules I plan on making some rural and urban scenes.  Farms and small towns, densely packed cities and maybe one of these days try my hand at kit-bashing some skyscrapers for a module.

 

The beauty of it is, if I want to run a more realistic layout all I need to do is leave out the fantasy world modules.  I think a lot of people like the idea of a crazy fantasy scene, but would never put one on their layout because they wouldn't want it there ALL the time.. but with T-Trak it's there when I want and gone when I don't..

 

While I am still undecided, my 2nd module will more than likely be a small town with old style shops and a road crossing.  Again, nothing overly elaborate.  I think I can realistically fit 3 or 4 buildings on a standard size module depending on how they are arranged.

 

I probably won't get to start until next weekend..

 

Jon

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qwertyaardvark

Why the need? If you use the alternate spacing you can connect to pretty much any US club's T-trak module. Build your own turnarounds or corner pieces and you can also use it as your home layout...

 

I agree, and this is actually exactly what I am doing..

 

There is not a T-trak club where I am living, but I figure I'll make my modules and have my own little layout going before too long.  Then when I do move, if I manage to find a T-Trak club, I'll be all set..

 

I feel the big reason for following the standards in the first place is to go out and meet fellow model railroaders. As a home layout, I might go with a module method for sake of portability, but my modules would probably be considerably larger in size and irregular in shape as it would personally bother me to have gaps every 14 inches. I would be thinking long and hard to find ways to minimize the visual impact of the ends of modules (like running cracks under buildings or shinkansen viaduct track for example) which would mean structures would be hanging off modules, and thus not attachable to club layouts. If there were a N/T-trak club nearby and had joined, I would probably make both the irregular and standard size modules.

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qwertyaardvark

I don't want to give everything away, but I have a number of station modules planned out. 

 

Those are some rather interesting ideas you got there! Not mention a few products I never knew existed like the crop-circle grass mat and UFO kit! Seeing all those themed modules together would blow my mind. I figure one module every one or two weekends will get you a pretty sizable and imaginative layout in no time. :)

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Krackel Hopper

As a home layout, I might go with a module method for sake of portability, but my modules would probably be considerably larger in size and irregular in shape as it would personally bother me to have gaps every 14 inches.

 

I most certainly agree with you there.  I have found (snooping around online) that many American T-Trak modelers tend to do at least a double-length module, even for clubs.  When looking at club modules online, you'll find most of the modules to be double-length and only a few following the standard size.

 

Me personally, I plan to have modules of all sizes.  My first, and 2nd are going to be the standard module because I had purchased the pre-cut kits.  My 3rd module is going to be at least a double-length module.  I plan on making a station module, and depending on what style of station I decide, I'll need anywhere from a double to a quadruple length (2, 3 or 4 ft) module to get the track spaced and platforms fit.

 

You could make 6, 7, 8, 10, 12, 23 ft modules if you wanted to that would still fall into T-Trak standards.  You just need it to be a multiple of the 310mm base length.  Minus 1mm on either end of the total module length for joining purposes.  The track is the same way, you can do just about whatever you want with the track on your module, so long as by either end it falls back into the 33mm alternate spacing with the front 1 1/2" from the front of the module.

 

You could also make irregular modules making one side of either end of the irregulars compatible with T-Trak so you could use those modules at home, or at a club (so long as you used them all so it went back to T-Trak standard for the next persons module(s).

 

Jon

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The beauty of it is, if I want to run a more realistic layout all I need to do is leave out the fantasy world modules.  I think a lot of people like the idea of a crazy fantasy scene, but would never put one on their layout because they wouldn't want it there ALL the time.. but with T-Trak it's there when I want and gone when I don't..

 

That's an excellent idea.

 

Fantasy elements have a long tradition in model railroading, even though the railroads you see in magazines today are all "serious" models.  John Allen, perhaps the godfather of serious model railroading, had a brontosaurus pulling freight cars in one of his yards. But being able to selectively omit the non-serious stuff has some advantages when dealing with the rivet counters of the world.

 

Crop circles and a news crew could even be "serious", as long as you left out the UFO. There are people who go out and make those for fun.

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Mudkip Orange

I'm pretty sure I saw an episode of NCIS with crop circles.

 

Turns out it was made by a helicopter that some marine stole to go settle an old family feud.

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Krackel,

 

are you doing standard or alternate track spacing on your modules?

 

ttrak is a fun way to build as you go and also reorganize on the fly when you get bored with your layout! im working on a standard spaced set of modules that are for urban streetcars. figure i can mix the modules up now and then for a new layout! you can also run a set of modules in a linear line with reversing circuit and display it on a long bookshelf!

 

glad you caught the bug, its a fast and fun way to get into making a small layout! best to do what you want now, you can always make adapter modules to fit your stuff into a club layout later if you end up somewhere with one.

 

the tomytec field workers are prefect for your field.

 

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10054666

 

also prohobby has a bunch of field workers and equipment

 

http://www.hwjapan.com/sh/kengte.aspx?sc=&mk=678&page=2

http://www.hwjapan.com/sh/kengte.aspx?sc=&mk=678&page=3

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Krackel Hopper

hey hey,

 

I am using the alternate track spacing.  At least for now.  Once I get enough modules to create a loop, I'll probably be looking into the idea of creating some standard spaced modules for dense urban scenes.  I've been looking at the Kato tram track as a possibility, but I have a feeling I'll end up layering styrene strips over regular unitrack to create the streetcar image.. but any module like this will be a ways in the future.  I have to at least get my 4 alternate corners before I move away from alternate spacing..

 

I've read your thread on the RU-2 reversing circuit, and I am very interesting in trying one out.  The ability to give the tram "stops" along the way before it hits the reversing circuit is genius.  I do hope you find a good way to get around the whole issue of getting the tram to stop exactly where you want it to.. so I'm looking forward to those updates..

 

Do you have any pictures of your T-Trak modules?  I'm always looking for inspirational pictures!

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Do you have any pictures of your T-Trak modules?  I'm always looking for inspirational pictures!

Here's a few of mine and other club member's modules including a shot that shows you can set up T-TRAK modules anywhere. Apologies if I've posted any of these here before.

 

Like yours, my first module has a farm house. At a train show last June a group of us started looking into using T-TRAK instead of N-TRAK and three of us bought module kits at the show, a week later I had the module with the farm finished and we were hooked.

 

The last couple of photos are of a point to point layout we set up at the club on Sunday, the yard visible in one of the other photos can be split in two and used at each end of a point to point layout. We were having so much fun on it the 26'x10' N-TRAK layout in the background sat idle all day.

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Krackel,

 

I have about 22 modules built and track laid, but got stalled building my roads last fall when life and work got really busy. hoping to get back on them soon here if things settle down. im printing my roads. works well except for the corners when you do the standard corners! still thinking of doing something tricky for the 180s to avoid having to do them in roads and make things more interesting. one end may be a station or other building that goes over most of the 180. the other may be rural with the road near the track but not around it.

 

been playing a lot with my buildings to see what i want for scenes. trying to work out a series of cross streets and alleys so that i can easily rotate modules around but keep some sort of street grid pattern going. my city modules are all full depth. more info on how i plan to do streets here http://www.jnsforum.com/index.php/topic,1022.msg8265.html#msg8265

 

i also dont do the lee boxes for ttrak bases. i prefer a slimmer base. saves room in storage and transport and i think the proportions look a lot nice. many japanese do thinner modules like this. i then plop them on top of 1.5" strips of .075" stock that are 4" long with a pair connected by a couple of dowels. this way you can plop down 4 modules on this and it lifts it off the table some w/o having a big blocky front (and to standard running height if running with others) and you can level 4 modules with just 4 bolts then. also lets me do a ravine module if i want in between these. more info here http://www.jnsforum.com/index.php/topic,1061.msg8884.html#msg8884

 

some picts of the ttrak being done by members of jrm are here

 

http://japanrailmodelers.org/pages/photos.html#ttrak

 

we are about half and half in the club with standard and alternate spacing. we can either do adapter modules to run together or have two setups and more trains running! im much more a fan of larger groups doing several smaller setups that group modules into themes to give a more coherent story and match the operations to the scenes. i think this gives the public a better story than a mega layout that is challenging to do operations on. i think it also fosters sub groups w/in the org to come up with better themes and help each other more. but thats my opinion and not shared much by the us ttrakers.

 

cheers

 

jeff

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