So you want to try Tomix FineTrack?

[katoftw]

Yeah this is for a permanent layout.  So soldering to a rail joiner wouldn't be an issue.  And drilling holes wouldn't be either.  Thanks for the tips.

Edited January 7, 2015 by katoftw

[Ochanomizu]

Hello Mr katoftw,

 

I suggest removing the rail joiner and soldering the wire to the bottom, then reconnect the rail joiner.

 

Even with a low-heat solder, I was able to melt Tomix track when soldering directly to the rail a few years ago.

 

Also, for best results use single core wire.

[keitaro]

Yap About to reply you when I saw your edited post below your picture.

 

Anyhow, I just got and tried my Tomix wide tracks (canted tracks) from Loco1 and they rocks! Check out the pictures at the other thread (what the post delivered). Definitely versatile and beautiful looking are the Wide tracks. Bottom feeding feeder cord and ability to join together, and the best option of able to place either side walls, or 2 different types of fencings. Very real looking!

 

Only downside is perhaps I find the gap at the both ends (the ballast) too wide, making the track look fatter...

 

Tomix wide track can look good though on a permanent layout. because it is much thinner it it easy to place a very fine amount of gravel ballast over the plastic and it looks nice.

 

The other tomix and kato rail is thick so it sticks up too much. Making a lot more ballast needed.

 

1 thing i did notice about the wide rail is some times and the joints one side is not flush with the other rail i.e. it sticks up. I also noticed there to be an inconsistency in the plastic color.

 

I have 2 of the set you bought off me but on mine for some reason the larger radius curves are a darker grey, maybe it was just my batch as i bought a year ago but it was noticeable.

[katoftw]

Hello Mr katoftw,

 

I suggest removing the rail joiner and soldering the wire to the bottom, then reconnect the rail joiner.

 

Even with a low-heat solder, I was able to melt Tomix track when soldering directly to the rail a few years ago.

 

Also, for best results use single core wire.

That is the plan if I go with Tomix.  Thanks for the hint on the wire.

[cteno4]

You can easily solder to the bottom of the track. Just takes a sacrificial piece of track to set up and practice on some. Took me like 3 or 4 tries to get it down.

 

The trick is to pretin the wire and the rail then just fuse them to together quickly using a tiny dab of flux. I used a rototool with a small cone burr to cut the slot. I cut the roadbed back at an angle to get a little access from one side for the iron to hit the two together. I did dozens of these for ttrak modules.

 

I'm guessing tomix track would be a bit easier as I think the plastic is a bit thinner than unitrak thus easier to get at the rail.

 

The good thing is that these joints will never come loose!

 

Jeff

[jrcrunch]

can i use kato controller on tomix tracks?

[katoftw]

yes. you just need to wire a kato and tomix feeder cable together.

[titoit]

Hello everybody!!!

I've a question for you. I started collecting Japanese models only recently. Some months ago I bought some Tomix Fine tracks: straight 280 and curved C280-45

My troubles are concerning curved tracks, as I haven't enough space to make an oval (220 cmX50 cm).

Because of this situation, I thought to use the following items C130-60/30 or C 140-60/30.

Such tracks would give to me the opportunity to make an oval in that narrow place.

However I'm not sure that those curved tracks are compatible with rolling stock (EMU or Shinkansen), because of the curve radius or the angle. I'm afraid of derailment.

What are you thinking about? I need your advices.

Thank you very much  :)

[railsquid]

You'll probably be able to get normal EMUs around C177 curves, provided they're not close-coupled. Certainly not Shinkansens. C140/C103 are probably too tight. If 50cm is your limit however, C243 should just fit. My Tomix 100kei Shinkansen manages those fine, though it looks a bit silly,

Edited February 3, 2015 by railsquid

[titoit]

Thank you railsquid. Do you mean this one

http://onlineshop.modellbahnunion.com/Product-choice/Modelrailways-Accessories/N-gauge/Tracks-Accessories/Curve-C243-45-2x-.htm?shop=union_e&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=1125&t=11917&c=17624&p=17624

 

or this one

http://onlineshop.modellbahnunion.com/Product-choice/Modelrailways-Accessories/N-gauge/Tracks-Accessories/Curve-C177-60-30-2x-.htm?shop=union_e&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=1113&t=11917&c=17624&p=17624

 

Thanks again  :)

[mrp]

Here’s a Tomix 92509 going around a C177 oval.  As railsquid said - it just makes it around ok.  No chance around a C140 - derails on the first section (I tried it).

 

 

Edit: Corrected 92510 to 92509.

 

Edited February 3, 2015 by mrp

[kvp]

Actually the motor car could go around and if you remove a tiny bit from the side of the bogie rotational stops, then it should (in theory) go around without problems. Check the motor unit first. (otherwise R150 is the minimal radius with unmodified bogies) My slightly older 113 series emu goes around the C140 without problems and didn't need any modifications. For most tomytec train collection items, the C140 is also the lower limit. This is actually a tram radius.

[mrp]

@kvp - That’s interesting to know.  I guess the only thing I’ve found those C140 (and C103!!!) curves useful for are the little KIHA 03 Railbuses.

 

 

[kvp]

C103 is also good for Tomix made hakone tozan emus and most trains with similar bogie distance from the train collection. R103 is actually prototypical for Hakone, together with some serious grades, that need all motors sets to climb.

 

Aiming for C140 is only good because the mini turnouts are also this radius, so you can have a layout with pretty complex tracks and still have a decent amount of trains to run.

[titoit]

Here’s a Tomix 92509 going around a C177 oval.  As railsquid said - it just makes it around ok.  No chance around a C140 - derails on the first section (I tried it).

 

 

Edit: Corrected 92510 to 92509.

This video explains better what I needed.

C177 could be probably a good solution; I'll try to plan an oval with those items with SCARM and I'll tell you about.

[mrp]

R103 is actually prototypical for Hakone...

 

Sadly, I bought a Modemo NT56 Hakone Moha2 set ages ago to try out with those small radius curves.

 

 

Turned out to be the biggest piece of junk I’ve ever owned and put me off Modemo for life.

 

But I see Tomix have the Series 3000 coming out soon so I might give that a try.

[Melandir]

 

Sadly, I bought a Modemo NT56 Hakone Moha2 set ages ago to try out with those small radius curves.

 

 

Turned out to be the biggest piece of junk I’ve ever owned and put me off Modemo for life.

 

But I see Tomix have the Series 3000 coming out soon so I might give that a try.

 

 

I had a bad experience with Modemo too, but I'll give the brand another chance in the distant future

[kvp]

The Modemo cars aren't that bad once you realize they were built for C140 curves (as all modemo trams) and you have to replace the coupler between the units with a thinner drawbar, otherwise they lift each other off the track if it's not completly level. The Tomix ones are more reliable, including the Tomytec train collection series Hakone Tozan car.

[NXCALE]

Hi all. I proposed an idea for the ones who want to try Tomix.

 

It is heavy and has more than 480 pages of pure information = Tomix catalogue.

 

As a beginner, I believe that a catalogue solves many of the questions that many of us (beginners) has. Or at least, it gives an unbiased starting point of view.

I experienced myself, I made a post of it (link: http://www.jnsforum.com/community/topic/10874-almost-two-years-of-isolation-the-point-of-view-of-a-lone-wolf-beginner/)

 

Having a catalogue saves us of many mistakes or following other people’s mistakes.

For you reference, the book is in Japanese but it is full of diagram, codes and symbols.

 

Some pictures are attached.

 

p.s. The solution if you want to also try KATO and GREENMAX, it is shown in one fo the pictures.

[JR 500系]

 

It is heavy and has more than 480 pages of pure information = Tomix catalogue.

 

 

It's like the bible for train modelling! And of course dun forget the Kato one!

 

Then that's the ones without track systems, like Greenmax or Microace just to drool at the pictures of the model trains...

[katoftw]

You don't need the book.  All that info is online for free.  The entire tomytec structures for example is available for download as a pdf from the tomytec website.  And what you cannot find, google will find it.

 

The book is for those that like buying the books after the internet was invented.  There is still a market for it, so they still produce it.

 

Not saying. "dont buy it."  But you can get the same info by not buying it.  More money for trains.

[Sascha]

I personally love the Catalogs. I take them every other day, just to look trough them, and get new ideas, or just to look at pictures.Call me old school, but having paper in my hand just feels better than looking at a computer screen.

[katoftw]

Nothing wrong with being old skool.

[NXCALE]

Actually, the Tomix catalogue does not grow new pages each time that an item is released… it would be cool if it would do it perhaps.

 

On the other hand, I have been reading many posts/queries from beginners (and not so beginners) in the forum about sections of track and/or a particular item. Most of the queries can be summarised to:

 

“Does Tomix (or Kato) have or do this particular thing?”

 

And… all the information is online and free although the very beginner does not know the product codes so it becomes an exercise of putting together all the pieces of information like a puzzle and the language barrier has not been mentioned yet.

 

I talk from my experience. I have been in the hobby for almost two years, since I got a catalogue I have not asked any questions about track geometry (this because there is no need). Now, I am quite familiar with the products codes and the items that I actually do not need the catalogue much but it is still nice to have a look to it. Also, I have been surprised more than once when finding items in the catalogue that almost no one has mentioned or used. I understand that this is because each person has their own taste of the hobby so the beginner has to rely on opinions rather than facts in that scenario.

 

At the end of the day, each one should have their own way to address their learning curve. What works well for someone does not necessarily works for everyone.

 

p.s. I still remember (when I was a very beginner) watching an online video where a person complained about Kato no having flexible track. I took my catalogue three minutes after and there was it, KATO 21-000 (no sure if it is Kato but Kato puts it in this catalogue anyways). Or another person on the same about Kato no having extensible track like Tomix and again, Kato 20-050. No dramas and saves time.

[katoftw]

So you really haven't been isolated for the past 2 years then?