MicroAce 0 Series Car Spacing

[AbaZ33a]

I’m looking to purchase a MicroAce 0 Series Shinkansen but one thing I can’t seem to figure out is which sets have what in terms of couplings and car spacing. I’ve seen some sets that have a very flush look and the cars are close together but some sets are spaced very far apart like the KATO. The fact that some may have been modified make things more confusing. I was considering the following versions but I’d prefer one that has a close connection rather then a far one. 

A-0259 (12 Car H2 Set)(2002)

A-0252/56 (12 Car H65 Set)(2003)

A-0493/94 (12 Car K3 Set)(2011) 

I could be wrong but it seems that that first two older sets released in 2002 and 2003 have a closer coupling, and the last one K3 which released in 2011, has different couplings with far spacing between cars. Unfortunately Speedshare doesn’t have any photos that show the car spacing for these sets. Any information how they perform on tighter curves would also be greatly appreciated. 

[disturbman]

How tight are you curves?

 

I have a 200 with relatively close coupling, which handles my 315 (iirc, I’m typing this on my mobile) superelevated tracks with no issue.

 

MA Shinkansens are not my speciality but I have noticed that the older sets used to use a sort of proprietary couplers, whereas the newer releases I have seen seemed to be equipped with simple Rapidos.

 

What I have been wondering, is if these newer releases can take Tomix body-mounted TN couplers or not. Wich is normal for MA sets.

 

My 200 is equipped with the older system and I do not find the gap between cars problematic—and I like to change my trains to close couplers.

 

edit: I have a tendency to avoid buying MA sets that are older than 2008/2007, as the mechanisms gets old and the sets do not all use LEDs for directional lighting. But it’s a personal preference, no need to shy away if you are comfortable with small maintenance tasks and upgrades—like changing bulbs to LEDs.

 

You can probably find a lot of detail pictures on the Japanese web.

Edited August 3, 2021 by disturbman

[AbaZ33a]

I have 45 degree superelevated KATO Unitrack curves at each corner of my layout. 

Edited August 3, 2021 by AbaZ33a

[disturbman]

What's the radii?

If you really do not want any gap between the cars, you could look at a Tomix version. Amiami has one on sale at the moment: https://www.amiami.com/eng/detail/?gcode=RAIL-28031

Otherwise, I checked, all the sets you mentioned should have the same type of couplers, the same that my 200 has which posed no problem on 315mm.

edit: I agree with your assessment, it seems that the older 0系 MA sets had a relatively short car gap, whereas the most recent and Rapido-equiped products have large gaps.

Maybe @jappomaniawould be able to answer your questions for sure.

Edited August 3, 2021 by disturbman

[jappomania]

Ciao!

about radii I use only the 315mm (I use just a big oval test track, no layout for now...) so I'm sure that everything can run, all the Shinkansen released till now and over... to avoid the present and future troubles I think is the best way

about gap between cars the speedsphere bible is a good source for comparison (also photos of gap between Tomix/Kato/MA)

 

http://www.speedsphere.jp/RailRoad/Shinkansen/Tec0SeriesModelReview02b.aspx

(comparison between Kato/Tomix/MA, scroll till  middle of the page)

 

http://www.speedsphere.jp/RailRoad/Shinkansen/Tec0SeriesModelReview03b.aspx

(comparison between old and new MA coupling, scroll till the last photo)

 

what disturbman wrote about coupling is right, if you need the measure in mm I need a little bit to find where are stored, but the first thing to know is the bad attitude for self destruction that affect the first batch of MA Shinkansen (02xx and Dr.Yellow), the zink pest destroy all the motorized chassis 😭

 

 

Ciao!

Massimo

 

 

 

Edited August 4, 2021 by jappomania

[disturbman]

Massimo, which are the sets touched by the Zinc pest? Only the ones produced in the early 2000s, from 2002 and 2003? Or later ones too? We are keeping a list of affected sets and I’m not sure we had any MA Shinkansen in it, except perhaps the first Dr Yellow.

 

It would be helpful if you could provide the exact set numbers of the affect sets 🙂

Edited August 4, 2021 by disturbman

[jappomania]

1 hour ago, disturbman said:

Massimo, which are the sets touched by the Zinc pest? Only the ones produced in the early 2000s, from 2002 and 2003? Or later ones too? We are keeping a list of affected sets and I’m not sure we had any MA Shinkansen in it, except perhaps the first Dr Yellow.

 

It would be helpful if you could provide the exact set numbers of the affect sets 🙂

 

2002/2003 release, 02xx code (0251/55-52/56-59 excluding 0254/58 V set released in 2007, or better, mine are still OK), Dr.Yellow 0250 and 0490, wooden case 0491-92, from 0493/94 onward are all safe.... (maybe I better to wait 4-5 years to be sure.... ☠️)

at the end a good source for kitbashing (not so hard to transplanting one Kato motorized chassis if you have a milling machine), rebuilding the original chassis in brass require more work (normally the motorized car is a type 35, so the engine is not so visible)

 

 

 

Edited August 4, 2021 by jappomania

[AbaZ33a]

Well I guess that the Zinc issue simplifies things greatly. From what I’ve gathered the two close connection sets are in the reported problem area which leaves the wide connection “K3” A-0493/4 the only risk free option. I’m still almost tempted to take a chance on the earlier version but if there is a failure I doubt I have the skill or knowledge to rebuild it properly or kitbash anything. I guess I’ll have to think about it. I just wish they replicated the previous appearance on the newer sets using the newer coupling, I don’t understand why they did that….

[disturbman]

Two things: First, not every sets from a single batch will suffer from zinc rot. If the motor unit does not present any bulging or deformation I think you should be safe. Though there is inherently a risk if the seller is not forthcoming. Second, you can always source a replacement motor from another MA Shinkansens. In my experience, MA motors are universal and can easily be swapped around. You just need to be sure you get a chassis that is the same length, all the rest is swappable. I imagine you should be able to change the motor from a 2002/2003 unit with the motor unit of a more recent set, like my 2008 200 for example. 

Edited August 4, 2021 by disturbman

[AbaZ33a]

Good insights and thank you everyone, I’ll still consider the older version if I can get a good price, I’ll go for it. Do you know by any chance what the original couplings on the old model are called and if they can be sourced and fitted too a newer MA model to replace the Rapido type? 

[jappomania]

mmhh... nì  a mix from "no" and "sì" (yes) for italians,

I don't know if italian wheater can accelarate the disgregation, but I have 2 x 0259, one Dr.Yellow and one 0251 dead, the rest is still OK (yes, when I told I collect all the Shinkansen is litterally true), the only one that permit a simple engine transplanting is the 0493/0494 (plug & play), the zamac chassis (only this part is the problem, the rest - motor, boogie, cardanic shaft etc.  normally is OK) is not the same as 200 series (clip positions)
years ago I've replicated the zamac chassis in brass, (handmade and milling machine) but was a really long job, maybe today is more simple to print it in 3D...

 

ciao!

Massimo

 

[disturbman]

That's too bad. All the non-shinkansen MA sets I have have a similar architecture and you can easily swap chassis and motor after removing the model specific parts (motor cover/underside equipment, boggies, and floor/seat cover). Clips always seemed to be in the same positions. Really plug and play as long as you have the correct chassis length. I haven't noticed a noticeable differences between 2020 and 2006 sets.

I thought their Shinkansens would be the same: remove old chassis and swap the model specific parts between the older motor and the donor motor. And so long you were swapping between models with similar coupler systems.

Edited August 4, 2021 by disturbman

[cteno4]

1 hour ago, jappomania said:

maybe today is more simple to print it in 3D...

interesting idea!

 

jeff