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Kamome’s Adventures in HO


Kamome

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There’s been quite a gap in my modelling time and as I’ve had little to no time, so many projects have been sitting waiting for me. 

 

Despite that, decided to procrastinate a bit more by adding 0.8mm brass wire to replace the air brake hoses on the wamus. Some of those installed with plastic (loco spares) were fouling the coupling and stopping it either coupling of uncoupling. With the brass wire added, I could bend into a position that wouldn’t interfere. Still not sure whether I need to add a cock to the hose as most will be lost between wagons. 

 

Also decided to remove the tiny brake hose from each end of the DD54 and replace with some larger ones, like all the Kato and Tomix locos have. They look very under scale but could be the opposite. So it’s now mostly Zoukei Mura with loco numbers and hoses by Tomix.

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Edited by Kamome
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The last accessory was the purchase of one of the new Casco boxes and inserts. This should hopefully stop any further issue with bent whistles, which on further research, seems to have happened to a few people with this model. 

 

The boxes and urethane inserts (from England according to the label) are the same dimensions as the larger Kato loco boxes (not the thinner boxes that the EF58, 12 and 20系 come in) Casco also sell just the urethane for those wanting to replace the polystyrene inserts from their Kato stock. No such insert for Tomix boxes yet. I’ve always found the Kato inserts to be good, although there’s been a few issues with the thinner boxes once coach diaphragms are fitted. 

 

No labels are included with the box.

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Edited by Kamome
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A stolen afternoon at Kamome HO depot has enabled me to number and clear coat the 15x Kato 20系 blue train coaches, finally.

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Generally all went on relatively smoothly with only the シ (shi) for the Na-Shi diner causing a few harsh words from the foreman. There were 2 number options for each of the 4 car base set coaches as well as individual Katakana characters and numbers. The Narone were also simple as even the longest of formations had only 1 or 2 of these before they were eventually retired. The Nahane, of which most of the 20 series train is made up of, in my case 9,  came with 3 number options although it was relatively straightforward to create some extra.  It would have been much smoother and simpler to take the Tomix mentality of including about 15-20 different numbers but they we are. 

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Also managed to prime and test fit the tanks and chassis for the 4x Tomix Taki 1900 cement tankers. The kits still need some filling and sanding before their black paint goes on and the mixture of materials has meant I needed various adhesives. The white primer certainly highlights the problems well. 

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I hope they look good once complete. They are not the best rollers but do navigate R730 curves. Not sure how they’d fair on tighter ones though. 

Edited by Kamome
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I find it good to have a number of projects on the go at the same time so that I don’t get bored or frustrated when certain projects need further thought or planning. Also as Hobby time is relatively rare, it’s nice to be able to pick up something that I can achieve in a relatively short period of time. 

 

Last weekend I bought the Tenshodo Kumoru 145 and Kuru 144 set in HO scale. I’m sure many know this already, but the intention is for these to be sold as a static model, that you could upgrade to run if you wanted to. The upgrade parts are relatively straight forward to fit, although I have not been hugely impressed with some of the design, especially around the bogies.

 

As a static model, the bogie detail is actually fitted to the chassis side with a plastic peg moulded to the top of the bogie. This means, when you buy, the bogies do not turn, they are set in a straight configuration. There is a plastic bolster and plastic wheels which are fitted snuggly into the axles and do not turn either. So as a static model, you could put this onto either metal or plastic track to make a really nice display. The printing of numbers, builders details and glass decals is excellent. 

 

I would imagine, most purchasers of these products will be inclined to purchase the motor and wheel sets to build a working model. This is where I found myself questioning whether this was really a product worthy of the Tenshodo name.
 

The pegs need to be cut off of the bogie sides, then the bogie sides screwed into the plastic bolster. The motor unit was relatively straightforward, with the bogie sides fitting to metal brackets for them then to be attached to the motor unit.

 

The unpowered bogies were a different issue altogether. 

 

My issue with these was that on a number of tries, the bolster and side would screw in fully, but leave a sizeable amount of play in the joint. The mounting holes on the bolster are made of a very thin plastic, and actually the hole has a gap in it, so the piece has two thin tabs with an approximate semi circle. I’m not really sure why they chose this style of design and not have a better reinforced bolster. One of the bogies moved enough for the wheels to fall out which I had to eventually superglue. Models Imon do produce a metal bolster but we’ll see how well these hold up now glued. Having taken apart many of Kato’s HO locos, the bogies are made up of a number of plastic parts, once together create a sturdy base. Tenshodo decided on a very simple, but essentially flimsy and IMO, flawed design to allow their motor unit to be used with a variety of models. This means the bogie sides can move independently from the motor unit which spoils the feeling of Tenshodo quality a little.  I really hope that future models in this series will be considered for some updated design although it looks like the Plum running parts for their 201 and Kiha 20 use the same system. 

 

So what should have been a relatively simple build, turned into a rather frustrating process as screws mashed up plastic only to find the fit was not overly secure. 

 

Let’s talk about the cost. Model approx ¥9000, motor and wheels, approx ¥6000, metal pantographs approx ¥3500. So we are at ¥18,500 for a now running model which is not terrible in terms of price, but similar to a Kato RTR Kumoha 41, 2 car set with an interior and working directional lights.  It really does highlight Kato quality and reasonable pricing but this is not a bad model.

 

I still have light boards, load and possibly cab interior to make and fit.  As the cost increases, I am trying to think whether it is really worth it or not. I’m still on the fence as I want to test its longevity but it is a very unique train. Essentially this is the only model of it in HO other than a brass version which is obviously way more expensive. This model ticks a lot of boxes, but the conversion experience has slightly soured my views of this range of products, despite them looking like nice models, once complete.  

 

These models are certainly not for those looking for a straight forward RTR type product. I would say, Tomytec have done a much better job of their similar product in n scale with a lot of simplicity in the conversion process.

 

This was a nice idea, but I think I will give a lot of thought to whether I buy another in the T-Evolution range. Perhaps I was just unlucky with this. In addition to the construction challenges, I had one wheel in the unpowered wheel sets which had a slightly off set axle giving the train a wobble. Thankfully I had 2 spare due the the trains configuration but this added to the model not quite meeting expectation.

 

As for extra detail, the metal pantographs look fantastic. Probably the best pantographs I own on an HO model and are definitely worth upgrading. Even as a static model, the plastic ones just don’t look very nice at this scale. 

 

I needed to paint the roof equipment and drill holes for the wipers, which in this case were spare Kato Kiha 82 ones. The roof equipment has a very plastic look but easily rectified to take the slight translucent sheen away. I am also intending to file down the nubs on the yellow front sections to attach more realistic hand rails. These are removable from the body so make the process far easier. It would have been nice if Tenshodo had included these sorts of details, even if to make the static model look that little bit better.

 

I will look into the head and tail light units from Cedar models. I believe they just need soldering to the pick ups in the correct polarity to work. 

 

The next challenge is couplers. Ideally the model needs shibata couplers on the rear with a double shibata/knuckle from Tomix which seem difficult to get hold of. Would be nice if Tenshodo would consider this problem and perhaps produce suitable options. It is currently fitted with some spare Kadee 58s while I await further Tomix production of said parts. Imon do produce a shibata type coupler, I believe HO265, but I haven’t currently found any other options for a double coupler. 

 

It is advised to solder wires from the dummy side pickups to the motor to aid running and reduce stalls. I need to find some fine gauge wire to do this.

The last step will be to paint and secure the loads. I have 2 sets of the Bona Fide axles with brake discs attached but I need to find further images on how these are secured. Some small chain might look good. I also need some further spares to use as loads for distribution. Some I have seen on blogs have used Tomix Aircon units or spare pantographs and couplers. 

 

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Edited by Kamome
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Continued with both the reliability additions and adding loads to the Kumoru. 

 

Had a real challenge finding fine wire, in this case 30AWG, to fit easily under the flat bed section. Despite visiting a number of electrical shops, had to buy on Amazon Japan. The pickups on the dummy bogie make the motor unit much more reliable so it’s certainly a worthwhile modification. There are already small holes in the chassis to allow wires to be fed through so certainly Tenshodo had given this consideration during manufacture.

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Also copper loops on the top of the motor bogie made this very simple.  16D60CF8-5287-4E23-BEB9-AB1E0803F5F9.thumb.jpeg.47816f73c111c1c619858987b83aed0f.jpeg

 

I will do the same to the unpowered Kuro eventually as the intention is fitting light modules for head and tail lights and having both bogies collecting current. 

 

As for the loads, the Bona Fide kits go together quite easily There is a slight gap on the disc brake detail which goes together in 2 parts. The level of detail is good and the axle shafts have dual locating notches for the wheels for both 16.5mm and 12mm gauge modelling. I added some 1mm square beams to create more of a loading rack between chocks. I also used the fine ship chain to give the impression of tie downs and dusted it with some weathering powder so it looks like it’s been sat outside for a bit or got some depot dust and grime. 

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2 kits look like a good amount to be hauling but still leaves half of the loading area vacant, not to mention the 2nd car.  As mentioned previously, some spare couplers, pantograph and whatever else I can find will eventually fill out the space.

 

 

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Really nice work! I am always so torn when I see the detail you can do in HO, just over that edge for the eye that the detail really pops. Then I think once the eye gets some great detail it then goes hunting for it everywhere and I then run back under the covers of the more minds eye perceived detail you have to do in N scale, but saves your butt from the rabbit hole!

 

btw the 30awg wire I use all the time is wrapping wire. It’s used in instrument panel wiring a lot. It’s pretinned so it’s tough and no issues of breaking strands (big issue in 30awg as few very tiny strands and easy to Nick and break off) and it hold a bend well. Pvc insulation that is pretty tough but very easy to strip. It’s cheat at $10-20 (use to be $5) for a 305m roll! I use it for led wiring a lot as I y have 10 different colors and plenty of current for a few leds. Since it’s pretinned it’s also easier and faster to solder and no tedious twisting a little but not too much each strip! More flexible than solid core as well.

 

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jeff

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Thanks @cteno4. This is exactly the wire I ordered. ¥2000 for 250 metres and soldered very easily as you say.  

 

As for detail, I also very much like the simplicity of n scale. A light wash and a few picked out parts can bring the model alive whereas there are a lot of intricacies needed for larger scales. Although this does make a nice change when you can add some “rivet counter” details that you’d usually have to overlook in N. 

HO is very much a side hobby, although it has grown over the years. Almost came home with a cheapish Tomix ED75 yesterday until I discovered it had been butchered adding detailing parts, many of which were in the wrong place or caked in glue. Personally if you want to ever go down the rabbit hole, Kato HO is still by far the best IMO. Minimal faff in detailing and always run well straight out of the box for a very reasonable price. 

 

 

Edited by Kamome
Cyberdyne Systems Auto correct thinks it knows best.
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It’s good wire and my goto for all smaller stuff. It’s tough.

 

yeah I do love playing with the minds eye with n scale. Bits of detail in just the right places makes the mind’s eye see more than is there.

 

i get the itch now and then with HO but keep resisting, I’ve got plenty of toys!

 

cheers,

 

jeff

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So having purchased a second Zoukei Mura DD54, I was instantly reminded that my initial loco(3rd version), while working, was not the runner I expected, based on the testimonials of other users. This new addition clarified my suspicions so did some further exploring and discovered a split gear in one of the bogie assemblies. The loco is relatively straightforward to take apart, be it for a lot of screws. It did allow me to rule out details catching or central bogie issues and all parts were labelled with direction arrows to aid reassembly. Just good habit to work systematically and have a divided box or trays to put small screws in so you don’t have to remember which screw was used on what. It is a well designed and well put together model and a lot less daunting than it would first appear.

 

I contacted Zoukei Mura who apparently do have an after service but only for up to 2 weeks after purchase. I am still waiting for a response, which may or may not come. For now I have removed the offending gear from the front axle, so while having all wheel pickup, I now have 75% of the axles driven although silky smooth. 

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Edited by Kamome
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What a bummer, thats a beautiful engine.  Seems to be the same plastic Bachmann gears are made of, which is notorious for breaking and rendering units to a lifetime on the shelf.

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Thankfully it can still be used and I hope I won’t get the same issue with any other axles. Actually despite this setback, while taking everything apart,  every other piece of this loco felt pretty high quality and everything screws into place securely. There is even a direction arrow printed on most of the components to help with assembly. Electrical pickup and motor wires to the board are all held in place with plastic tabs so there was no de-soldering needed either.

I’m certainly not put off ZM models, just think I was unlucky and worse case, the loco still runs well on 3 powered axles.  Hopefully they will respond to my email and they could send me a new front axle. The Volks shop I bought it in had no means to test the loco when purchasing, as they were more geared to their very nice SWS military models and general hobby supplies. Also the only chain of hobby shops in Japan that seems to stock Vallejo products which I rate very highly.

 

Update

 

Had a reply from Zoukei Mura and they will order the part for me. I have requested a front axle assembly which has wheels, bearings and gear rather than trying to fit another gear on the existing axle and possibly damaging something. I’ll keep you posted with the outcome and whether there is any cost involved. 

Edited by Kamome
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I really love the DD54. They were so ugly, always covered in diesel and coal soot and there’s just something interesting about the eras of Japanese railways when they weren’t the pristine, cutting edge services that they are today. Similar to the BR blue era of underfunded national railways in the UK, there’s just some nostalgia and interest in a railway that looks a bit broken. The fact they were a bit s**t, endears them to me more, similar to many British modellers love of the Hymeks, Warships and Westerns which suffered similar fates. 

 

Having learnt lessons the first time round, I decided to start the detailing for the ZM DD54 in a different order to smooth out some of the issues I had. 

 

- Removed body, center bogie and fuel tanks, side skirts and coupler ends. The underside parts have to be removed in this order due to them overlapping. Removing them enables better access to paint the fuel shut off cocks red and other details that were usually highlighted, at least on 54 33 in Kyoto railway museum. 43DEAA31-1B39-4076-8A7B-85A45AE4CBB9.thumb.jpeg.34e27013a093e5fddff58c951d4ee03b.jpeg3641799C-9705-4E39-962B-3F9147ED00D0.thumb.jpeg.2be06b2ed4752766e66e516fa6ff10f4.jpeg

 

-Body has 2 long securing screws at each end between the bogie and fuel tank. 

 

-Fuel tank and center bogie is a single assembly secured with 4 short screws and unclips. Side skirts with sander pipe detail can then be removed with 4 small screws on each side. The screws next to the front ends are a bit tricky to access.  

 

-With side skirts off, the front coupler assembly can be removed.

 

The coupler mount was taken apart so I could remove the tiny air hose details. It’s a very fine piece but looks too small compared to my other locos. I used a 0.8mm bit in the pin vice so I could add larger ones. As this is the blue train variant, it needed 3 cocks on each end, one with hose attached. The 3rd variant actual only had a single air hose cock.  Thanks to some Kato spares from the DE10 and EF65, this DD54 got suitably equipped. 8391E216-4DD9-49E9-BC77-3E95C64CA059.thumb.jpeg.564cd98b20d00b0527a776037451ebe6.jpeg

 

With the body removed, I painted further detail to the cab. I followed the same colour scheme as last time as it’s an identical mould. I need to find some more Kato 6-520 Blue train crew to add for driver and mate. Most of the images I’ve seen usually have 2 crew in the cabs of sleeper train locomotives. As the cab is lit, the extra paint will bring some variation to the pale green plastic. 

 

Before starting to add the umpteen metal handrails, I added the loco numbers and other dry rub decals. This way, there was no awkward masking as the surface is much flatter. Again I used the metal etched numbers from Tomix, thanks to spares from the DF50. One of the included numbers was DF 50 33 so useful as I could switch out  the necessary digits to create DD 54 37, essentially this model depicts the look of units 35-37 and were equipped for blue trains.

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They really started looking a lot closer to the DB V160 by this stage. This helped greatly with alignment but adding masking tape also gave a straight edge to assist. I then masked off the rest of the body and gave all of the dry rub decals and metal decals a coat of Mr Hobby, Premium Top Coat Semi Gloss which seems to match well with the existing sheen. 

 

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I now need to finish the loco by adding all handrails and metal etched builders and cab plates, but this should go smoothly now I no longer have to add further masking or numbers.

Edited by Kamome
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Detailing is finished and I do think that adding numbers first made the process a lot simpler. Adding all the handrails certainly went much smoother this time easily identifying what goes where. Again the handrails and assigned holes were exact fits so I’m very impressed with ZMs quality. 

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There are a few differences in the design which, I’m happy to say is modelled in Zoukei Mura’s depiction. This locomotive obviously went through some significant changes but the chassis and roof are identical on both my n scale and HO scale models of the middle version and the late Blue train version. The most obvious difference is the change of windscreen design and the newer rounder window looks slightly more elegant than the original glazing.

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Also the triple body bands were done away with on the late version, something I hadn’t really noticed before but again gives the later version a more sleeker look.

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The only other difference with this model is the added air hose taps that allowed it to couple with the 20 series coaches. Not sure what the failure rate was by this stage but I assume they were doing alright if a few were allocated to the Izumo service.

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In regard to the included headmarks, they’re not the best quality, especially now I’ve discovered the ones from Moriya studio, a little pricey but look very good. Also not sure if I’ll just pull 20 series coaches with this loco so having a fixed headmark in place would not be that appealing. Thankfully the model includes an empty headmark stand. 

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Volks kindly sent me the replacement part required to get my initial DD54 pulling on all axles. The part cost me ¥800 which is fine as I should have chased it up earlier than 8 months later. The postage was a bit silly and can’t help thinking they could’ve saved on shipping a little. 

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While riding out typhoon Nanmadol, finally had time to finish the 4 Tomix Taki 1900 kits. It’s only taken 2 years to get them done. They’ve actually not been hugely enjoyable. Issues with warped parts, ill fitting pieces, different glues needed dependant on material, filling, sanding, priming, more sanding, painting, sanding, more painting. Felt more like I was making an old Airfix kit than a modern Japanese manufactured model. Completion is a relief as much as anything.

 

The kit does give a number of additional options for certain configurations. The extended walkways have to be considered early in on the build but the extended handrails and platform supports seen on the Chichibu and Mitsubishi takis are not included in the kit. I kept to the basic instructions which still give a very detailed model and the reference photos of Myojo Cement didn’t seem to show the alternative kit options. 

 

The dry rub transfers were very crisp and even the tiny ones adhered well to the painted surface. These were actually very satisfying after the build challenges.

 

I will next give some consideration for weathering, possibly enamel of oil paint so help with adding streaks. These things, especially the reference photos of Myojo cement ones, looked pretty heavily used. 

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Tenshodo Kumoru 145 project continuation which has a had a few challenges. My knowledge of electronics is limited and when things don’t quite go to plan, I tend to first doubt whether I have done things correctly. The Hyper D controller that I tend to use for HO use was tripping with the model cedar light units. I first doubted that my simple wiring was correct.

 

Having rechecked all of my wiring, I have since re-soldered the lights and discovered the issue is with both light units and the Hyper D controller (although I need to also check my 2nd controller)  I seem to get no issue with the Standard S. The light units are rated up to 15V and I was of the impression they were meant for HO usage. The issue seems to come when the polarity is changed so could be a faulty switch on the controller or some conflict with the output. 

 

Connecting the extra pickups really help with performance although you don’t get the fine control you’d get from a heavier, flywheel fitted motor unit. I’m still on the fence whether all this work was worthwhile considering the cost and the sometimes questionable quality of a manufacturer usually famed for high standards. 

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Looks very nice, I suppose we should be glad this display model came with a motorization option at all, if unfortunate that it was not a smooth experience to convert. 

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Well it has been a significant gap in my posting on this thread. Actually my hobby time and money has been divided  between the odd railway acquisition and some RC cars. 

 

Here is the Kato  Yume Kukan anyway. Parts were very simple to fit, most the identical mould to other Kato 24 series coaches. I was quite surprised there were no spares for a number of items. The wipers on the Dining/ observation car particular. Wipers on other HO products from Kato have a tendency to fall out or ping off somewhere. These actually fit very easily but if I’d made any error in cutting them off the sprue, I would’ve had to find the Assy part number an ordered. Would’ve been nice to have a spare or 2 considering the cost of the set and the minimal amount that said parts would have costed to manufacture. There actually wasn’t much to do with these coaches although I haven’t yet added the coach numbers of 1, 2 and 3. 

 

There are some very nice details and for me the red and cream lounge car stands out above the other 2.

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I have been sharing my limited hobby time between railway and RC projects of late and while the latter have been put on hold due to some component availability, it has meant I could start project ideas I had been putting off or feeling less confident to start.

 

One such project was to weather another of my JRF stock locomotives. I purchased the Kato EF510 in ex-Hokutosei service livery when it was released back in early 2018.

 

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If anyone is looking at getting into HO, I would say this is a good starter, mainly due to its very attractive price point of around ¥10,000. It’s a big heavy loco with twin motors mounted in the leading bogies. Details are limited compared to its Tomix equivalent which is 3 times the price for the basic or 5 times the price for the prestige version. So Kato have done well to offer a heavy hauler with a cost that is easy to accept. For additional details, Kato produce an upgrade set, much the same as they do with their EF81s which includes the missing roof equipment and air hoses. The newer version also includes wipers which is the most notable omission from my version.

 

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Anyway, I like the idea of having my modern JRF locos and stock weathered. Actually, the ideal end goal would be to have all of my HO and N scale models weathered, at least my HO anyway. I know this may offend some, but I would consider myself more of a railway modeller than a collector, despite my ever-growing collection along with my lack of layout at this current time.  The thought of reselling any of my trains seems unlikely at this stage, and I certainly want to do the best job I can do weathering each piece to the best of my current ability rather than rush to get it all finished, which seems highly unlikely. So blue trains rooves and undersides, diesel soot, pantograph wear residue and general grime are all on the agenda for my HO railway stock at least.

 

The EF510s grey plastic bogies and couplers are similar to their N scale counterparts but you really don’t get away with it at this larger scale. Details are actually well moulded into the underside parts but a lot is lost under the grey plastic sheen.

 

I started by dismantling the locomotive. The motor bogies just snap off the chassis and the detailing can be removed quite easily. This gave access to much of the detail. The underside painting took a lot longer than I anticipated so the body is still to do. 

 

On checking photo reference, post blue train duties haven’t been kind and as they’re now required to only pull freight, they look pretty tatty.  I gave the underside parts a coat with 2 different colour shades of brown to add some shadow and highlights where necessary. Wheels were removed, masked and painted separately. At first I was concerned the underside all looked a little too brown, but checking photos again, this was representative of this loco’s condition. Some final applications of brown and black enamel washes created some filters to add more shadow where needed.

 

IMG_9825.thumb.jpeg.ee64a42a62ad5ab5dca87974aa05dbed.jpeg

 

The next step will be to paint the roof dirt along with some sandy coloured streaks down the side of the body where rain and wind has obviously pulled it off the roof. The great thing about the model is all parts and glazing can be removed very easily to save time on having to mask windscreens etc..

 

 I’m not yet sure how to recreate this, perhaps enamel or oil based material pulled down with thinner.  The roof above the cabs are also pretty filthy with pantograph residue and oil. 

 

Here are some references of just how shabby these formerly shiny locos now look. 

 

https://raillab.jp/car/56147

 

https://train-directory.net/photos/file/58138/

 

 

 

Edited by disturbman
formatting issues with pictures. Added line jumps before
  • Like 3
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Thank you @JR East and @cteno4 for your kind comments. 

I’m slightly apprehensive about the body as colour variation seems quite subjective and easily messed up but i’ll post once work is underway .

 

I need better understanding of what actually is covering the loco. I assume it’s pantograph wear from the wire but is it a copper deposit along with general grease from lubrication of moving parts? I assume if they used carbon based collector strips it would appear much more black. The green insulators also look surprisingly clean from the last image on Twitter.

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55 minutes ago, Kamome said:

The green insulators also look surprisingly clean from the last image on Twitter. on the social media formerly known as Twitter.


Fixed that for you 😄
 

55 minutes ago, Kamome said:

I need better understanding of what actually is covering the loco. I assume it’s pantograph wear from the wire but is it a copper deposit along with general grease from lubrication of moving parts?


It's really impressive, I can't say I have ever seen anything like it. Who would have known than passing a locomotive through a washing facility would be so difficult. The containers seem cleaner than the loc.

Edited by disturbman
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2 hours ago, disturbman said:

Fixed that for you 

Sorry, never been part of the platform and realise it is now called Musker or Twesla or something.

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