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What did you fix today?!


cteno4

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Other half is fixed:

 

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roco-v188-001_23266_07 by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

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roco-v188-001_23266_08 by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

Unfortunately one of the internal gears in this rather colourful and adventurous gear train:

 

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roco-v188-001_23266_06 by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

binds occasionally with its neighbours for some reason, so I had to remove it, reducing the number of driven axles to 3.

 

Interesting mechanism, basically two motorized 4-axle locos (Do-Do wheel arrangement) joined together electrically *and* mechanically, with all axles driven and with pickups (via the rims), runs... very well.

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So I am enjoying the first day of my week off from work... a new Märklin wagon arrives on my doorstep... and some bits had broken off in-transit despite the seller’s best packing efforts. Oh well, time for a trip into the (not quite socially-distanced) metropolis to get something to fix that:

 

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Most of what you see here was already in my hobby arsenal, but I decided that rather than messing around with my Humbrol poly cement, to take @Kamome‘s recommendation from his Adventures in H0 thread and get some Tamiya Multipurpose Cement. I can’t say I regret it, the stuff’s fantastic. It fixed a broken hoop for the optional stakes, got the wagon deck glued down with a little help from some extra hands (a pair of Christmas present spring clips) and then went on to do the same with the schnapps distillery where a pipe had broken off. I couldn’t use the clips there, so I dug out some of my old varsity Blu-Tack which did the trick while the glue went off.

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i'm fixing my old kato Kiha 20 today

 

does this models originally comes in 5 pole motor?

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Not today, but in the last three weeks or so...

 

A Minitrix Br.111 sold as non running for £30. On arrival it appeared unused, the blackening on the tyres was unworn. Lights came on but motor wouldn't turn.

 

Removed the bogies (slide the pins out and catch the large gear directly below the worm drive). Found the factory oil/grease had set like concrete! A good squirt of WD40 Contact Cleaner (plastic safe, some other contact cleaners aren't so read the label) and gently rocking the wheels back and forth saw them spinning freely within a minute or so, followed by allowing them to dry and applying fresh oil. Reassembled and it runs perfectly.

 

Incidentally, if you have a Minitrix loco which runs backwards compared to the rest of your fleet then try swapping the bogies around. The pickups are handed unlike Kato or Tomix. The exploded diagram wasn't terribly helpful there, or on which way the body is supposed to fit onto the chassis. A decent prototype photo cleared that one up.

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Bought a few second-hand passenger coaches from someone who made the decision to switch to HO.

 

Two of them were 15 years old and needed a nice look into them.

I passed some cotton on the roofs to remove dirt and other debris.

Fixed the position of the coil spring of one of the couplers, that looked loose.

Popped all the axles out and checked the sockets for wear.

Cleaned all the wheels of their crud.

One of the axles dropped one of the wheels as soon as I took it off, so I had to fix it.

Once that was done, I lubricated the axle sockets and snapped the axles back in place.

 

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Edited by Giugiaro
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I had the nwsl one long time ago but it’s gone missing, I have a vague memory of lending it to someone. Need to make a checkout list, this happens all the time, but that seems way too formal.

 

i just ordered one of yours off ebay. I I’ve been making due with watch band one I had modified a bit to accept wheels for regauging.

 

jeff

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Another wagon has had some surgery today: this time, a privately-owned ballast hopper used on the Royal Württemberg State Railways.

 

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Gotta say how much I love that little SAG dump truck that came with it! This was a Märklin Museum exclusive for 2000. It was purchased from Germany but arrived with one hopper support broken in two and about to become three pieces. Oh no, time to get the tools out...

 

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You can just see where I had to glue the lower 'break' in the hopper support, it's on the right-hand side main support. In order to get it right, I had to push the lower half out to apply the glue (Tamiya Multipurpose again, wonderful stuff!) then push everything back into line. The upper break was just below the 'lip' of the hopper and got a light coat of glue on the inside edge of the support where it won't be noticeable. Should hold everything together and keep it safe.

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Note to self,  “Microace plastic does not have the same tolerance as Kato.”

 

Changing the couplers on 18 Wokis and 2 Wokifus, I ended up accidentally splitting one coupler housing which decided to snap clean off. Some of the couplers twisted out of the housing without too much issue, but I’d say a good 40% needed cutting out to avoid damaging the bogie. I have some fine narrow ended nippers to cut the shank so the old rapidos fell out. I won’t ever use them again so no loss. 

 

As it needs to withstand a little torsion from coupling, I decided to use a “belt and braces” approach and glue, pin and add filler to ensure a bit of strength. 

 

I used 0.3mm brass rods to pin the necessary pieces back together and used some tamiya filler diluted a little with lacquer thinners. This allowed it to go on a lot more smoothly, although still required some filing down and sanding.

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I used the short shank Kato couplers although all needed trimming as they don’t fit MA bogies. Trimming 40 tiny couplers was the least enjoyable part but the gaps are marginally reduced and no large rapidos spoiling the look of the hoppers. Looks ok so time will tell whether it will hold. 

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😶

 

That never happened to me. And I changed quite a few couplers on MA sets.

Did you try GM knuckles? Not having to sand down couplers is one of the reasons I adopted GM's over Kato's. As far as I can see, the couplers you are using also do not allow for automatic coupling.

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Yes, possibly look at automatic coupling on the loco ends only. Haven’t found a suitable option for this type of coupler housing yet. I intend to leave the rake as a 20 car unit so intermediate cars will have these knuckles. 

 

I bought some of the 8056 GM knuckles but they also don’t fit easily, so went back to Kato ones. 

 

The GM knuckles look convincing so may see if I can use them on something else like my Kokis.

Edited by Kamome
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Yes. The GM short shanks can be hard to fit but in my experience they don't distort the housings once installed like Kato's often do. I never had to file them down and they usually have a bit of play once installed. But it can be that it wouldn't be the case for these Wokis.

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