Jump to content

Green Max body has become loose over chassis

Mr Twinrover

Recommended Posts

Mr Twinrover

I have recently fitted some Kato lighting to my Green Max 3 car emu 30257/8/9, which runs quite smoothly and quietly. It was a fiddly job but the non motorised cars were the easiest and were fitted within two or three attempts. However, the powered centre car needed a lot of trial and error, and in the process the body has stretched sideways resulting in the chassis becoming loose under the body. Any advice please? Is this a common pitfall when handling such delicate models and I stress I was  really gentle when trying to align the lighting coils in order to function properly.


I have a new Farish British Railways class 31and it is very noisy compared to the GreenMax unit. Are the Japanese motors superior to the English ones? Could anybody give me the technical description of the motors used in each brand. Could I also ask if a "Brawa super quality" N Gauge brand exists, please, and the motors they fit to their models? I just cannot tolerate the poor quality junk that British companies churn out for the captive market here.

Link to post

Do you mean the center bottom of the shell is bowed out now some? If that’s the case sometimes the shell can be bent in a bit by using a clamp to hold the shell (by itself) edges in at the enter bottom, squeeze it just past the normal straight and let it sit for a day or two. That can get it back to straight or even a little bent in (but that’s ok as the chassis will hole it back out to the proper place.


this happens a lot when shells are bent out to release chassises. I try to use little “spudgers” which are little pry bars to slip between the chasis ans shell to avoid just bending the shell out a lot at the center to get the little chassis/shell clips to disengage. Many of the chassises have clips like 15% of the way in from each end so to get them to un hook you really have to spread the body a lot at the center. So using little thin prys  Right at the clip points you bend the shell as little as possible.


you can use those wood coffee stirrers and just sharpen one end like a chisel tip to help it slide in. You don’t need much to disengage most of the clips. I keep the prys in until all 4 are in and the chassis is loose other wise you can play whack-a-mole with a clip snapping back in while loosening another.


pict of what’s going on will hell of this isn’t it.



Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Create New...