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AhmadKane

Nippon Bali

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cteno4
1 hour ago, AhmadKane said:

I looked at basics. and basics dictate that DC model railway is a simple electrical circuit. So instead I came with a compromise. I think that the WD-40 had some problems with some people because of the silicone and the petroleum. I therefore used the WD-40 Fast Drying Contact Cleaner. No silicone, no petroleum. Sprayed and rubbed using some cloth.


if you go for a contact cleaner then make sure it’s a plastics safe one, many are not.

 

jeff

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AhmadKane

I've just tweaked a bit with the incoming of some new KATO turnouts. 

 

2663.thumb.jpg.c8091b26958783f715b572a86fcb57ab.jpgTo get an access from the inner track unto the outer track, I took the turnouts I got out below the viaduct before and matched it with an Atlas Cross. The leeway under the tracks would be suitable for the cables as well. The radius of the turnout is so tight however, I don't think I'll be running an ICE-4 at full speed towards it. 

 

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Apart from changing the R248 with an atlas tight curve and the turnout unto the inner track. I've moved the viaduct a bit so that I got clearance. I also shifted the pillar away from the S joiner to increase strength 

 

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I also got an old Faller platform for nothing, and my station is complete. I had thought of placing the Plarail Advance Platforms on the right side. But there isn't enough space.

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AhmadKane

So I had met a senior creator that could make an N Scale Bus System from an old Tomytec engine, he normally does 1/87 moving cars. I also met another creator that made a turntable, and asked him to create a moving turntable with a motor.

 

As soon as I got these items. I looked at my layout while I was thinking of fixing the tracks. I realized I had no space for these! There was so much empty space, so I decided "F it" and ripped up the foundations of the outer and inner track. This was the result

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So the old setup with the outer track had gone right unto the double truss. While this made a good parade track, the incline caused a lot of problems. Namely trains tilting and falling upon passing the track. So I took off the viaduct setup from the inner track to the outer track, effectively making a loop around using the viaduct. 

 

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This would also make room for the viaduct. The old system had the gray truss passing over the middle track. Causing such a low clearance. The gray truss is now passing the new station, where it is made a bit shorter and curving unto the river to get as much room as possible for the bus system to turn. 

 

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I had a faller bridge set that had some plastic molting off the bridge set. Making the product completely unsellable. I decided to use it instead, and it hit me, I thought of using a bridge and waterfall setup similar to Marklinofsweden. This would be a great place to shoot trains passing over the waterfall. There was a challenge in cutting the tunnel mouth, as I made the tunnel mouth using plaster, insulator foam and chicken wire. Cutting it with gundam clippers has been a hassle. 

 

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Moving along I noticed that upon exit from the viaduct, I would need another platform to lay the track. This in turn gave me some sort of a British feel of the layout, similar from Pokemon Sword and Shield. The parade track above would be divided from the track coming out of the viaduct. The division would be made using Faller Profi Wall, which I think I'd fit with building facades to have a shop in a wall feel. I used toiler paper and tissue to fixate it together, unfortunately I saw the profi wall being pushed a bit, tilting over. I would need to rid the tissue and brainstorm on the best method to place these walls. 

 

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Another reason why I did this is that when I look at the station, I continue to be pissed that the station is so small, and wouldn't fit a fully fledged train. So the idea now is that every loop has a purpose. The inner loop is the main station and "the old route". The middle loop serves as a passover and the link to the turntable. The outer loop is the long route, spanning from the station through the viaduct and looking over the waterfall. So after a couple of measuring. I decided to create a platform on the outer loop, directly bordering with the edge of the layout. The long platform would use some wood or styrofoam since normal kato/tomix platforms are a tad bit expensive and too wide for purpose.

 

I also got another double cross. I jokingly asked an online local seller whether or not he's willing to sell a NEW WX310 double cross for 3500 yen. He said yes! And I was like, take it!

 

So I have two double crossovers now 😄

Edited by disturbman
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Tonytramman

great work there mate. 👍

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cteno4

Careful with your nice gundam shippers on the chicken wire, it can ruin them fast for use on trimming sprues cleanly. Plain old pair of wire cutters is great for chicken wire. Yeah plaster and chicken wire can make uber strong landscaping but it’s pretty much a rock then and almost takes jackhammering to modify later. You’ve seen the light now on doing lighter scenery you can mod fast and easy later! 
 

a train layout is never done, you see that new thing (ie moving bus system) and have to add then that trips a very long series of things that have to happen! But It’s what makes the hobby so much fun!

 

you going to use wire in your own roads for the bus? Is your friend going to adapt a 1/87 faller mech to an n scale bus?

 

jeff

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AhmadKane

Yeah I shouldve used wire cutters, but I do not own some. Maybe I should. Luckily gundam nippers here are very cheap, like a dollar a piece. So ruining one isnt really the end of the world.

 

I suppose it is. Theres always something to add and something to revise as time goes. Foundationally however, I hope this is the last.

 

I think so... Im not super sure of his process. He has a faller/tomytec bus chassis and ask me to get a large truck of a bus. Not sure if the 1/87 mech is used, since the mech seemed too big for regular usage in n scale. But yeah, Im gonna wire my own roads. I think ill take a hot knife to slice thru the cardboard surface and implant the wire, although I need to test the minimum radius in the layout first.

 

Speaking of which, Im looking at the possibility on whether or not the bus system could cross over kato rail crossings, and what should I use to make it happen.

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cteno4

Cool, I thought you were using nice sprew nippers that can be expensive! Then just get a new pair for your plastic stuff and keep the old ones for wire!

 

an ho car mech might be cut up for an n scale bus. Wheels would be close. Then use a tomytec shell.

 

yep you can make a trough and fit the wire in like that. Just need to make sure you keep the wire depth uniform for good steering.

 

you can test radiuses and curves and such by taping the wire to the back of some thin styrene or chipboard (Like 1mm) and run the bus on top. Let’s you play a lot before designing streets and paths.

 

yes it can go over track crossings. You just need to have thin styrene or chipboard to run up just flush with the rail head and then a strip down the center of the track with just enough room for the flanges to fit thru on the rails. Then run your wire right up to the track and a short bit in the center section. Works well, little thumping around but works.

 

jeff

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