Jump to content

Kato C62 2017-1 DCC install


Kiha66

Recommended Posts

Another day, another project.  This one is a commission for a friend, I think I have a better handle on the installation process so I'll try to document it for others.  Feel free to ask any questions!

 

I'll be using a basic DZ123 decoder, and will be leaving the headlight manually controlled (Via twisting the smokestack) as it greatly simplifies the install. 

Edited by Kiha66
  • Like 2
Link to post

It'd help if I posted the photos too, whoops!  

 

I like to start by cleanly disassembling the model on a sheet of paper, and then drawing out a simple diagram of how I plan to wire it.  This way no wires get crossed later on!

20200213_193415_compress33.thumb.jpg.64e595b0c7fa01b1aec36cc4db3f3fd7.jpg

20200213_193427_compress4.thumb.jpg.ce8172e92c17ad5040312d62496650b6.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post

In the locomotive, the motor wires will be run through channels in the frame.  While it is convenient kato thought ahead and added them, it is a tight fit.  I find you need to bend the wires first to a matching shape, otherwise you'll have a hard time getting the boiler back on later.

 

The motor is connected to brass tabs that slot into the frame below the headlight.  Simply slide them out of the slot and desolder the motor wires.  After soldering the motor leads to the decoder wires, insulate them to protect from shorts.  I use liquid electrical tape.  Once the connection is insulated there is space in front of the motor to tuck them out of the way. 

 

20200213_193611_compress49.thumb.jpg.9daa1d12f16438987c1664876ea1e8f8.jpg

20200213_193741_compress15.thumb.jpg.7ec06f98cb8cc92e35fdf9402217afef.jpg

 

Link to post

For track power, we will use the existing pickups in the tender.  Remove the brass pickup tabs and solder your red and black wires to the front.  I also like to bend the wires slight so they dont twist the pickups once the tender goes back together.

 

20200213_201537_compress61.thumb.jpg.15e24f2ad7db51cd8dca67e53a9dc205.jpg

20200213_201552_compress78.thumb.jpg.5aafb12abf461ad8033388363878fe3f.jpg

20200213_201719_compress56.thumb.jpg.a05dfaeb72ee31a81199408496cce7cc.jpg

Link to post

Finally, reassemble the locomotive and tender, minus the tender top.  Feed the motor wires in through the two holes above the draw bar connection, and reattach the tender.  After checking there are no shorts, you can now wire in your decoder of choice.  Afterwards just slide the tender top in place.  Good luck!

20200213_210736_compress53.thumb.jpg.0e628743e8efdfdde65cb7c1e51a30bf.jpg

20200213_210711_compress34.thumb.jpg.2d574ec0aca4e9f51c54ee34d1920d96.jpg

20200213_210653_compress11.thumb.jpg.62525a48dcfcc61ed4f54573297a9012.jpg

Link to post

In case the headlight does not work on dcc, the capacitor in the light board is a likely culprit.  I ended up removing it, it is the center item on the rear of the light board.  Simply desolder the component and you should be good to go.

 

20200214_133450.jpg.2dbf29a415bcd35d27585823228e4746.jpg

  • Thanks 1
Link to post

Thanks Kiha. I had no idea I could just leave the lightboard in place. That makes the install a lot easier. What were you saying about controlling the light using the smoke stack?

 

  • Like 1
Link to post

Happy to help!  On some kato steam locos (usually the ones designed for doubleheading) the smokestack can be rotated 90 degrees which turns off the headlight.  The there is a piece of plastic under the smokestack which covers the LED when rotated.  Not all locos have this functionality, but its much easier than running separate headlight controls which will rarely if ever be used.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post

Good morning, Can you please tell me how to connect the wires of the Decoder for the headlight operation in DCC.

Thank you

By Romeo 

Link to post

Please don't understand how to connect the lights wires in DCC

Help!!!! 😔

Thank you all

  • Like 1
Link to post
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Romeo said:

Please don't understand how to connect the lights wires in DCC

 

For one of my locomotives I insulated the left side of the light using kapton tape, then connected the white wire to the provided contact.  The right side of the light board is left connected to the right side locomotive frame.  Depending on the decoder you may have to remove the capacitor, but for my install it didn't seem to require it.  Hope this helps!

 

20210725_135835.thumb.jpg.52f596fb0f02faa02321e666d0831e22.jpg

Edited by Kiha66
  • Like 2
Link to post

Thanks for the help and for the photo, my decoder has a blue wire that I don't understand where it needs to be connected. 

Thank you. 

Link to post

The blue wire is a return path for electricity from the white wire.  In this case I have not used it and instead used the right side of the chassis as a return, but you could also insulate the right side of the lightboard from the chassis and use the blue wire instead.  

  • Like 1
Link to post

Could you please tell me what kind of decoder did you use?

In case you want to use the blue wire you can tell me where to solder it

Thank you very much 

Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...