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Kiha66

Kato C62 2017-1 DCC install

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Kiha66

Another day, another project.  This one a commission for a friend, I think I have a better handle on the instillation process so I'll try to document it for others.  Feel free to ask any questions!

 

I'll be using a basic DZ123 decoder, and will be leaving the headlight manually controlled (Via twisting the smokestack) as it greatly simplifies the install. 

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Kiha66

It'd help if I posted the photos too, whoops!  

 

I like to start by cleanly disassembling the model on a sheet of paper, and then drawing out a simple diagram of how I plan to wire it.  This way no wires get crossed later on!

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Kiha66

In the locomotive, the motor wires will be run through channels in the frame.  While it is convenient kato thought ahead and added them, it is a tight fit.  I find you need to bend the wires first to a matching shape, otherwise you'll have a hard time getting the boiler back on later.

 

The motor is connected to brass tabs that slot into the frame below the headlight.  Simply slide them out of the slot and desolder the motor wires.  After soldering the motor leads to the decoder wires, insulate them to protect from shorts.  I use liquid electrical tape.  Once the connection is insulated there is space in front of the motor to tuck them out of the way. 

 

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Kiha66

For track power, we will use the existing pickups in the tender.  Remove the brass pickup tabs and solder your red and black wires to the front.  I also like to bend the wires slight so they dont twist the pickups once the tender goes back together.

 

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Kiha66

Finally, reassemble the locomotive and tender, minus the tender top.  Feed the motor wires in through the two holes above the draw bar connection, and reattach the tender.  After checking there are no shorts, you can now wire in your decoder of choice.  Afterwards just slide the tender top in place.  Good luck!

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Kiha66

In case the headlight does not work on dcc, the capacitor in the light board is a likely culprit.  I ended up removing it, it is the center item on the rear of the light board.  Simply desolder the component and you should be good to go.

 

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gavino200

Thanks Kiha. I had no idea I could just leave the lightboard in place. That makes the install a lot easier. What were you saying about controlling the light using the smoke stack?

 

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Kiha66

Happy to help!  On some kato steam locos (usually the ones designed for doubleheading) the smokestack can be rotated 90 degrees which turns off the headlight.  The there is a piece of plastic under the smokestack which covers the LED when rotated.  Not all locos have this functionality, but its much easier than running separate headlight controls which will rarely if ever be used.

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