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Newbie Help Needed


kenjidm

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Hello all, glad I found this forum and excited to get into this hobby with my son.  I'll start off by saying I bought my 8 year old the E259 NEX train set with the additional C track set.   Now here's the sad part, my 2 year old got a hold of the engine train and threw it.  Looks like one of the couplers broke and I am trying to figure out which coupler I need to replace it.  the other thing is my kid wants to add lights and that's another confusing part for me.

 

Question 1 - Broken part..

I see on the broken piece it says 0512 , but according to this book i have the chart mentions another piece maybe for the coupler? I thought that I needed JC6352 which was a form of 0512, but i am not sure now what exactly i need now cause the chart says JC0349 and am assuming that's the replacement part?

 

Question 2 - LED lights

 

i want to buy LED lights for the 3 cars that I have that came with the set but not sure which one I need.  Whats the difference between 0755 / 0756 / 0733?  I also see on the bottom of the chart it mentions 0734??  Please help..

 

Thanks in advance for the help

 

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Hello kenjidm,

 

To the first question:

0336 (6-pieces) and JC0349 (1-Piece)  are compatible with each other but I think  the right coupling is this one: Tomix JC6325

 

to your 2nd question:

The articles 0756 and 0755 are the old light strips from Tomix (the two are different for top wagons and motor wagons). Article 0733 is CL interior lighting (this lighting shines with the right transformers even while the towing vehicle is stationary).

 

The difference to 0733 and 0734 is the light color. It would be better to buy the CL interior lighting right now.

 

Kind regards

Patrick

Edited by shiniji
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Thanks for the reply shiniji.  

 

Question 1 - you mentioned JC6325.  How can a newbie like me find this information?

 

Question 2 - so what lights would I need for the engineer car and the passenger car?  Based off of what you mentioned it seems like the engine car uses a different light strip than the passenger car? Another dumb question what does CL mean?

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First, there are no dump questions 😉

 

I was looking through the search at Hobby Search for E259 and then gotten under Tomix shown) is Article JC6325 the link then stands in the description of the parts "For Kuro E259, E258 Kuha cockpit." Therefore, I think that it could be the right clutch (it is possible that the article JC6325 he appeared later than the E259 and therefore still the articles 0336 and JC0349 are described in the manual).

 

LA are longer and for the topcar and LB is shorter for the motor car or smaller.

CL means constant lighting, these vehicles or interior lights shine at very low power already bright (so all the stuff is illuminated without he already drives).

Here the Links:

Tomix 0733

Tomix 0756

Tomix 0755

Edited by shiniji
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One thing I noticed is that when I come to a complete stop.  I throttle it and nothing happens.  I need to then tap the tap to get it going.  Is this a train issue, power unit or track issue?

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2 hours ago, katoftw said:

Taping the train on the tracks?

 

Yes.  When it comes to a complete stop, we turn the knob to get it going and it doesn’t move.  Giving the train a nudge it will start moving then.  Seems like a bad connection somewhere 

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That could be dirty track, you can try some IPA (isopropyl alcohol, or rubbing alcohol) on a paper towel to clean off any dirt or corosion from the top of the rail.  The train wheels could also be dirty, but track is easier to clean.  To clean the wheels you can out some IPA on a paper towel again and hold one truck lightly on the towel, while the other truck is on the track.  Then switch to clean the other truck.

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Have you tried removing the shell and making sure all the chassis is tight and right along with the trucks seated well after it’s flight? May be something like a truck is just a bit wonky and causing it to bind enough or not pickup power well. Also along with the tracks look closely at the wheels to make sure there is no globs of gunk on the wheels.

 

jeff

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The fact that it has previously been thrown (and damaged).  I would be looking at all the moving parts in the motor car.  Similar to what Jeff above said, but pay good attention to:-

 

the motor, flywheel (brass round thing),

the motor shafts (which are extendable length and bind a lot (between flywheel and bogie)),

the bogies themselves for full movement range.

 

Make sure the all move freely, and don't have a clunking movement about them.

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Khaul - yes I got suckered into this hobby but after finding this forum, it's made it more adventurous and has made me want to buy buy buy.

 

 

Edited by kenjidm
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so i took apart the motor car and made sure everything was intact.  Being new, i didn't see anything unusual..  maybe you guys do? 

 

Any case, put it back together and still get the issue with motor car losing power.  

 

1)  i cleaned the track like mentioned

2) lights are installed in all 3 cars, so i know there is power cause the 2 passenger cars lights light up.  The motor car is just dead sometimes.

 

I'm at a point where maybe changing the parts inside may be an easy solution? I'd like that to be my last resort...So any other advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Capture.PNG.b241bf232c1dec70d760e12274e0834c.PNG

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Did you clean the wheels? From the first photo in this thread it looks like there's a bit of a build-up of dirt, which is hard so see on the newer "blackened" wheelsets, but if there's enough in the right place  on the right combination of wheels it can act as a partial insulator.

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4 minutes ago, railsquid said:

Looks OK to me, it's just the bogie turned at an angle.

 

That was my thought as well. It may be some parallax in the shot making it look a bit out of kilter

 

does look to be some dirt on the wheels, worth a shot, it’s fixed stutterers for me when they didn’t look all that dirty.

 

one way to clean is to drape a paper towel over a piece of powered track and soak it in isopropanol. Then put one truck on the track and the other down on the track with paper towel over the track. Turn up the power while gently holding the truck and Lower it onto the paper towel on the track while the wheels are spinning to let it rub gently on the isopropanol soaked paper towel. This is a tad rough on the traction tires, though.

 

the alternate approach is to flip the mech over wheels up cradled in something to keep it from moving around. Then take a feeder track attached to the power supply and you can touch the rails to the wheels of one truck to make the wheels spin. With your othernhand you can rub an isopropanol soaked qtip onto the wheels of the other truck. Gentle with the traction tire. Flip and repeat for the other truck.

 

Have you popped off the trucks to see if they looks all tight and right? It’s sounding like something is a bit out of kilter from the toss.

 

jeff

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40 minutes ago, cteno4 said:

Have you popped off the trucks to see if they looks all tight and right? It’s sounding like something is a bit out of kilter from the toss.


It's easier to clean the wheels if the bogies/trucks are removed anyway.

 

For the OP, they are designed to be removeable - holding the car on its side so one edge of the chassis is pointing downwards, you need to push one side down towards the now "lower" edge of the chassis, and pull firmly outwards from the "upper" edge.

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Left worm gear looks slightly crooked, it may not be set right in one side. Also does the car stop on all track or just on curves and when it stops is the motor off or still running?

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51 minutes ago, nah00 said:

Left worm gear looks slightly crooked, it may not be set right in one side. Also does the car stop on all track or just on curves and when it stops is the motor off or still running?

Stops on all different parts of the track

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2 hours ago, nah00 said:

Left worm gear looks slightly crooked


You mention worm gear, but to me, the whole left shaft is out of whack.

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Since you're in the area I'd be happy to stop by and take a look at it sometime, hopefully its something easy we can fix in a few minutes. 

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Photos can be hard to tell exactly what is going on. These sorts of issues usually turn out a lot of poking, prodding, wiggling, reassembling, and then it starts to work and half the time you are not exactly sure what made it start working. Always gratifying when one thing become apparent that was wrong, but many times not and just have to be happy it’s now working! 

 

When it goes dead there is no motor noise, correct?

 

Jeff

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19 hours ago, RogerMc said:


You mention worm gear, but to me, the whole left shaft is out of whack.

 

Like Jeff says, it's hard to see from the photo what the actual state is, but the drive mechanism looks - as far as I can tell - OK to me.

 

With the newer Tomix chassis the camshafts connecting the motor to the bogies are angled upwards at an angle, which gives the impression they're a bit wonky.

 

Anyway, with the chassis open like that, it should be easy enough to verify the motor itself works when power is applied; if so then clearly the issue is with electrical pickup somewhere.

 

 

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