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Trainsetter (Germany)


lighthouse

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Hi folks!

 

3 weeks ago I realized one of my dreams with my longtime partner.

Trainsetter Ulli Liedtke & Natascha Drews GbR in Germany is now at the model train market. We will produce selected products for the N (1: 150 & 1: 160) and Z (1: 220) gauge in the future.

 

Our first product, which we would like to introduce to you, is available soon in July 2019!

The starter set "Hänschen" contains a catenary for the track system Kato Unitrack and Tomix Finetrack in gauge N. 2 pieces long wires for 280mm and 4 pieces short wires for 140mm mast spacing in 0.25mm stainless steel. Of course, the wires are thus suitable for curves, which can be tailored to suit his needs. "Hänschen" is only suitable for the indicated overhead line operation, which means that the pantograph must not touch the wire.

 

Unfortunately we are not ready yet with a website! We are happy to answer your questions via trainsetter-gbr (at) gmx.net or on Facebook and Twitter.
Whether in English or German, we will answer your questions.

For mid-July, distribution via dealers is planned.

 

 

Yours sincerely

Ulli Liedtke
Trainsetter Ulli Liedtke & Natascha Drews GbR

email: trainsetter-gbr ( at ) gmx.net

 

Flyer 2019.pdf

 

Haenschen.png

 

 

Edited by lighthouse
  • Like 11
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Hänschen ?!?

Is this going to be some kind of Ikea style naming? 😂

 

Good luck with the buisiness, and I'm looking forward to the first z-gauge products!

  • Haha 2
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Hi MichiK,

 

my girlfriend came up with this idea. But she's right, because you can remember names better than any numbers or anything.

 

But the naming has another background:

Hänschen = Starterkit
Hans = Kit with short wires (available in august)
Johann = Kit with long wires (available in august)

 

Finding a name that can contain 3 names is quite easy in the German language. 🤣
(Hänschen = little boy name of Hans, Hans = adult name & Johann = older adult name)

 

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I speak some choice words in a few languages including German after the grand nephew has visited and I step on a tiny, strategically placed lego piece left behind...

 

jeff

  • Like 2
  • Haha 2
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lighthouse

Good evening!
We did a stress test with our overhead wire. Unlike many a well-known bank, our product withstands all odds and keeps its promises.
The 140mm catenary was attached to a Tomix overhead pole using commercially available superglue.

 

 

  • Like 6
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Looks great, if I ever get some time to work on my layout I will definitely be looking for these.

  • Like 1
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Nick_Burman

Looks good. Some time ago I think Ginga Mokei made more or less the same thing, however their sheets have been OOP for ages now...

 

Cheers Nicholas

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Nice!

 

So snipping off the end pieces and the end verticals will get you a Kato 248, correct?

 

jeff

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5 hours ago, Nick_Burman said:

Looks good. Some time ago I think Ginga Mokei made more or less the same thing, however their sheets have been OOP for ages now...

 

Cheers Nicholas

 

Our catenary has Ginga model as a basic idea. Since we do not use eyelets, the length is variable.

 

5 hours ago, cteno4 said:

Nice!

 

So snipping off the end pieces and the end verticals will get you a Kato 248, correct?

 

jeff

 

Yes! We will offer 140 mm and 280 mm pieces. You can use the distances of KATO and TOMIX by cutting to length. Also, the 140mm pieces are then very well suited for the curves from 240 mm radius.

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Finally our "Haenschen" overhead lines are available (limited stock). For 15,49 € (1875 Yen, 17.40 $) you get two 280 mm long and four 140 mm overhead wires made of stainless steel. Available over trainstetter-gbr(at)gmx.net

 

67221457_492523014624037_7367001010184650752_n.jpg

67236402_492522994624039_3327552622977613824_n.jpg

67244979_492523004624038_1770001557924872192_n.jpg

Edited by lighthouse
  • Like 2
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Hello Guy 😄

 

Friday I got my ordered overhead wires and also tried the same and now I would like to report from my experience.

As a tool, I use a Dremel / rotation tool (Proxxon or equivalent) with a cutting disc, a bending pliers and superglue. To remove the wires, I use the Dremel, with this one can also clean the protruding ends well. For 2-track cross members still missing side holder (see red circle in the picture) for the lower turns (I have already passed this as an improvement suggestion). The 140 wires also fit very well for the C354 radius, here a 158er wire would be useful to cover the C391er radius.

 

The installation of the wires was really easy and the look and the overall picture I find very great.

20190719_204629.thumb.jpg.02c1fd88434e007e7f645d2462b33910.jpg20190719_204230.thumb.jpg.ed1939f8463b692089005649dc662d9d.jpg20190719_204245.thumb.jpg.4babd906cfbd93125ebe43c1b32f8599.jpg20190719_204301.thumb.jpg.bbbf657b052e38269d7ef2870eabf0a0.jpg20190719_204422.thumb.jpg.b582ef541ecb5c45c8715ee860bc3942.jpg20190719_204515.thumb.jpg.079ac9c76e6887cd7dec999ce8880752.jpg

  • Like 6
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Today we can introduce you our standard wires.

Johann = 280mm, Hans = 140mm and Hannes = 160-180mm.

 

Johann is suitable for straight lines and long curves from R = 600mm, Hans from R = 245mm to R = 320mm and Hannes from R = 350mm to R = 400mm.

All wires are made of 0.25mm stainless steel.

Hannes 180mm Drähte.JPG

Hans 140mm Drähte.JPG

Johann 280mm Drähte.JPG

  • Like 3
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And another news. Soon you will be able to equip cars in N scale with our mirrors. For this we have made 3 types.

The mirrors are suitable for Kato & Tomytec vehicles and also for other manufacturers.

 

 

 

Spiegel PKW.jpg

Edited by lighthouse
  • Like 2
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Claude_Dreyfus

A question mainly aimed at Shiniji, but perhaps more relevant here than in their layout thread as it is more product-specific.

 

I see they can be fitted to Kato poles (I am looking at Kato specifically as I have loads of them), presumably by gluing. I am curious as to how you go about fitting across base board joins?

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Hi Claude,

 

thank you for the question. Honestly, I have not thought about it yet. I think the sketch could be the solution. I will try it this week and show the result here! Please be patient.

half cutted wire.png

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Claude_Dreyfus

Thanks for getting back to me. This information will be useful for those of us who build portable/exhibition layouts.

 

No hurry, I'm just curious at present; I haven't even built the boards for my new layout, so nowhere near the point of putting up the wires.

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I have seen layouts that use a removable span to bridge the gap between modules.  The catenary poles on either side of the gap are set so that the distance between them equals one span.  Then a removable span is used to connect them when the modules are in place.  This piece needs to be rigid and it looks like the Trainsetter pieces could work for this from the pictures above.

I have seen this both at exhibitions in the UK and in articles in Continental Modeller.  Off the top of my head, I cannot provide a specific example but, if you need one, let me know and I will see if I can dig through my collection of Continental Modellers for an example.

Cheers,

Tony

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Hello Tony,

I also know the detachable parts from exhibitions. The big problem is that every layout has different distances to the edge. A standard length is hardly possible. Of course, if every layout had a consistent distance, it would be easier.

 

 

Ulli

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Claude_Dreyfus

We use the detachable option on our club's H0 layout, and it is the most practical way of doing this. However, this works where there is a method of fixing the wires to the poles (we use Sommerfeldt catenary and wires). The Kato catenary poles do not readily have a way to fix without glue, so I was curious to see if this had been looked at.

 

I am not in a situation as yet to check, but will be happy to do so nearer the time...to me, a layout with catenary always looks better with the wires as well.

 

It does, of course, require some careful planning on the part of the layout builder to ensure the poles are the prerequisite distance apart at the board joins!

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Claude_Dreyfus
5 hours ago, lighthouse said:

...standard length is hardly possible. Of course, if every layout had a consistent distance, it would be easier.

 

As I suggested above, it is down to the layout builder to correctly space the catenary poles. They would only need to use a standard length wire to bridge the gap. It is just the fixing to the pole which is a challenge. Strong enough to withstand the rigours of use (boards moving, fitting/removing etc.) but flexible enough to fit.

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Perhaps we should consider for the coming year to construct a wire to hang (similar to Sommerfeldt or Viessmann).

Edited by lighthouse
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