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Perfect hot glue applicator?


gavino200

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I like the properties of hot glue. But I find it messy to work with. I like that it's very strong, and transparent, but that it's easy to remove with no damage. But I find the gun itself is a very imprecise applicator.

 

It seems that what would be better would be to have a little "hot pot" of the glue heated and liquid. I could then use an applicator to dip into the glue and then apply it in tiny precise amounts. 

 

Anyone know of anything suitable?

 

My (rejected) thoughts so far.

 

1. Use a ladle on the kitchen stove. Rejected as I want to keep this work in my workroom. I'm fairly sure my wife won't want me to bring it to the kitchen. Also, I don't like the safety issues of doing this work next to the stove.

 

2. Alcohol flame bunsen burner. Rejected for safety reasons. 

 

I'm sure there must be some kind of electric heating element based product out there that would be perfect. Might try a fancy kitchen wares store. 

 

Any ideas would be welcome.

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That 15 seconds heat up time looks nice. Still i should find a wired version as i tend to forget to charge batteries.

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Hot glue is good for general and larger surface adhesion. There are too many variables that makes it unreliable for precision adhesion.

 

The "set time". The time span in which it sets is a huge inhibitor.

 

Based on the ambient temperature, sustained melting temps, and flow rate it creates a juggling act that's hard to keep up with. The problem is we need a

thin coat of adhesion where as the hot glue set time decreases as the glue is thinned. It cannot retain the heat to remain a molten and pliable for the things we need to glue.

 

Tesa tape is the best solution. It is expensive but it will hold.

 

it is .16mm thick. The 123 block is suspended by that 1/8" x 1" strip.  In some cases if you use too much tape the adhesion is permanent. Where the pieces can break in two.

 

 

med_gallery_153_15_103551.jpg

 

 

Inobu

Edited by inobu
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gavino200

Hot glue is good for general and larger surface adhesion. There are too many variables that makes it unreliable for precision adhesion.

 

The "set time". The time span in which it sets is a huge inhibitor.

 

Based on the ambient temperature, sustained melting temps, and flow rate it creates a juggling act that's hard to keep up with. The problem is we need a

thin coat of adhesion where as the hot glue set time decreases as the glue is thinned. It cannot retain the heat to remain a molten and pliable for the things we need to glue.

 

Tesa tape is the best solution. It is expensive but it will hold.

 

it is .16mm thick. The 123 block is suspended by that 1/8" x 1" strip.  In some cases if you use too much tape the adhesion is permanent. Where the pieces can break in two.

 

 

 

 

 

Inobu

 

Is this the stuff you're using?

 

https://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Double-sided-Scrapbook-Length-Width/dp/B004V3XRDE/ref=sr_1_19?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1493671606&sr=1-19&keywords=tesa+tape

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Imho hot glue is best used the same way as welding. The pieces are joined until they touch, then hotglued around to hold them together. Stick on, classical glue style usage is just a sideeffect and the result is similar to blue tack, just a bit stronger.

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Tesa 4970.

 

If you want to make something removable just use long and narrow strips.

 

The image I posted.....The 123 block are steel blocks

 

 

To remove something you have to apply separation pressure. If you pull too hard the material break. I had two 1/8 "acrylic pieces break before the tape. 

 

These are similar products.

 

 

 

 

Inobu

Edited by inobu
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If you want the super sticky double stick look for transfer adhesive. Use to be a 3m brand now many sell it. Basically is just sticky adhesive with no tape in it. It was stareted to use to put auto side moulding on. You have only one shot putting it down as it's a mess to get off but it's just push on and go.

 

Hot glue works great on rough surfaces and bonds well to paper so chipboard, corrugated cardboard, and foam core are great. On edge joints I pit a small head down and quickly place it, then if I can I do the fillet along the joint edges and yo can get a pretty permanent bond. I've done a ton (literally) of this kind of hot gluing to do quick exhibit models up to 1:1 scale and it's great as it's fast and easy. Down side is you can only glue 2' at a time as the glue cools fast and it's not a super clean joint. Bonding to other materials like plastics is variable.

 

To do a pot of glue I think it would be a mess with stringies on the applicator to joint and then pulling it away. Also the surface area of your blob of glue on your applicator would cause it to cool fast and spreading it even more so not good stick by the time you get your other part in. Hot glue works best in short bursts with the glue going on fast and parts put together fast to set while glue is still molten.

 

Jeff

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One more thing to watch for, if you have a nonregulated glue gun and let it heat too long without usage, the head gets really hot and the glue may come out boiling. This tends to melt many plastics, so the only quick way is to waste some glue to cool down the head to normal operating temperature. On the other hand, this super hot glue is really fluid and stays hot for way too long on good insulators, like wood or foam. (besides melting right through most foam materials and even some types of wire insulation)

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